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I put on some red loctite and torqued down the pinion nut until there was no more play. Short test drive and everything feels good so far. I made sure to mark the nut so I can see if it comes loose again. If nothing else, this will be a learning experience. Leaving on Wednesday to make the trip to San Diego - once I hit the border I'll have AAA at my disposal. I'll put up a video of how loose the pinion was.
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May 13, 2019 19:23
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Uh yeah if it was loose then I agree with your decision! Were there any marks on the nut or housing that the mechanic put on there? I wonder if they were off by a turn or something?
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May 13, 2019 19:52
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No marks on the pinion, the nut or the flange and no signs of locktite or anything that might leave a residue. I think they probably didn't get it tight enough and it backed off. It was really loving hard to get it tight enough to take the play out. I really wanted to use my impact but I've heard that's bad, so I used plumbing pipe on my breaker bar.
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May 13, 2019 20:03
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Astonishing Wang posted:No marks on the pinion, the nut or the flange and no signs of locktite or anything that might leave a residue. I think they probably didn't get it tight enough and it backed off. It was really loving hard to get it tight enough to take the play out. I really wanted to use my impact but I've heard that's bad, so I used plumbing pipe on my breaker bar. When I did my rear pinion seal I used my impact to tighten it back up to the mark I made then gave it a little squeeze more. Two years later its going fine 
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May 13, 2019 20:09
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I'm incredibly glad to hear that. Sorry for filling the thread with my anxiety-riddled posts.  I took the chance while the jeep was in the shop to replace the centering ball in the rear driveshaft. I swapped in in the modified cherokee driveshaft that I had made at the shop recently and it works great! I'm going to swap this one back in and keep the cherokee shaft as a spare, now that I know it works fine. I rebuilt the front shaft too.  Video doesn't want to load, so imagine a hand with a red and black glove shaking a pinion flange, while the guy that belongs to the hand breathes heavily like a buffalo. Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 23:33 on May 13, 2019 |
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May 13, 2019 20:25
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Drunk Beekeeper posted:I wonder if this is due to the fact that TJs have 19 gallon tanks but the vent tube prevents you from filling past 15 gallons. Reading through that thread reminds me how much I love AI. Mine says 19 gallons on the build sheet though, but who the gently caress knows. I should definitely buy a jerry can anyway; the tire carrier is already set up to hold one.
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May 13, 2019 21:10
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Is there an easy way to replace a TJ fuel tank vent tube without dropping the tank? I think that's what's causing my fuel filler issues.
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May 16, 2019 14:35
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From what little I've dug around that area of mine so far, it looks like dropping the tank would be easier than anything else.
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May 16, 2019 14:51
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If you pull the rear fender liner you can see the tubes pretty well, not sure about getting to the base though.
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May 16, 2019 16:05
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I made the drive to San Diego and the differential feels great still. I'm going to have the gear pattern and pinion preload checked in a couple days. The transmission and steering box leaks are fixed, along with the rear axle pinion, but the front driver side inner seal seems to be pissing now. I JUST installed the outer axle seals.
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May 17, 2019 02:04
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So I think the fuelling issue with mine is primarily premature cutoff. Got a low fuel light, drove another 20 miles or so, then filled it up. Pump shut off at just 10 gallons. Restarting it a few times let me get another five gallons in, so fifteen total.
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May 19, 2019 04:04
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 Finally got out on the trails this season. 
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May 19, 2019 22:42
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We took out the new Rubi yesterday for a few hours trail-riding in the Ahtanum State Forest.      The sway bar disconnect threw a warning after a couple hundred yards of trail, without ever having been engaged. I understand that these have been sketchy since they first came on stock JK Rubicons, but come on. Never used, busted.
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May 20, 2019 16:27
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For the 7 years I've had my Jeep I've been telling myself that 33s are plenty. It's harder to break things with 33s. Fuel mileage is better with 33s. I even went so far as to buy 10.5" wide tires instead of the 12.5" that I had prior. Well today that all went out the window when I put on 35s. I found an awesome deal on almost new 35x12.5" BFG KO2 tires on 17x8" aluminum rims. The backspacing wasn't quite right so I added 1.25" spacers. That took the rims from about 4.5" backspace down to about 3.25". Previous rims were 3.75". Im on a stateside visit to take care of my girlfriend's grandma for a couple of weeks so I don't have any extra tools with me, just the normal travel kit. When I realized that the rear studs were a little bit taller than the spacers I had to run over to harbor freight for a $10 angle grinder. I took just enough off of the studs to get a flush fit between the spacer and wheel. I didn't even have to cut the threaded portion, just the smooth piece at the end that I get is there to get the nuts started easier. Thank goodness for harbor freight  I like the look pretty well overall, except for the silver spots all around the outside, so I may spray them black. Maybe I'll wait until they get some rock rash first. Everything seems to fit great so far, for street driving. When I get home I'm going to pull the springs and shocks and see where I need to cut to get the tires stuffed up the maximum amount. 
Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 02:52 on May 21, 2019 |
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May 20, 2019 22:53
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That looks sweet as hell  I really want to go bigger than the 31s I have but I'm not really prepared for the other upgrades I need to do to support that. I'm kind of at the point now that I'm thinking about getting a 4dr as the kids are getting bigger so it is probably going to end up being a next rig kind of thing. But then I see a sweet setup like that 
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May 20, 2019 23:01
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Indeed, very nice. Threw the Chinesium top on mine last night. For a loving $200 top, so far so good compared to the sun-roasted and incomplete Bestop that was on it. Turns out I was missing the bar that slides in the bottom of the rear window, since the thing didn't come with any of the removable panels. Picking one up tomorrow.
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May 21, 2019 00:21
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I did it! The XJ no longer leaves an oil spot! Had to replace the rear main, oil pan and valve cover gaskets, and just did the distributor gasket which was throwing oil all over the starter. I also took the opportunity to clean the idle air control valve although I’m not sure it really affected anything. Idling seems a bit smoother but that could be psychosomatic. 
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May 21, 2019 15:45
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Has anyone had to change the hinge pins on their tailgate? Mine on my 16 JKU seem to be giving, the door doesn't sit square anymore and I have to give it a bit of lift to close it.
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May 23, 2019 04:03
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Just replaced my Duratracs, Goodrich inflated them to 45 psi all around. Thanks, that's my Jeep story for today.
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May 23, 2019 10:18
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What I thought was a bad (new!) sway bar disconnect ended up being the electrical connector not fully pushed into the motor receptacle. I pushed it in, latched it, and now everything works.
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May 25, 2019 04:21
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Found out which u joint is making noise. Right front wheel. Coincidentally, that'll probably be what's been making my steering feel a little... squirrelly.
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May 26, 2019 04:56
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No pics yet because the wife loving hates it [ill update this post with a sneaky pic later], but I did a 500mile road trip in the M715 for Memorial Day weekend. It seemed fitting, and I'm glad I did it. These are the lessons I learned: Need to get shooting style earpro + intercom like all of those other offroaders do (insulation later). We sat there not talking for long times and it's no good for grumpy wife morale. With the current engine/drivetrain, 60mph is the comfy spot. It can go 70 for the occasional overtake. Vertical windshield == just as loud as the engine. Window wipers are 2x engine noise for some reason? I switched to left foot brake / right foot accelerator for hilly areas and stop/start areas as your leg gets really loving tired pushing on those drum brakes, combined with the current sitting position. It didn't break down or explode, which was fantastic. Learned a lot of things and also have somewhat of a priority list now, in order of comfort. I will never be taking this thing offraod until it's on disk brakes, for sure. If every action has an equal and opposite reaction, that opposite reaction lives nowhere loving near the brakes on this truck. I'm fairly certain the windshield is my primary brakes at this point. [e] a pic 
tuna fucked around with this message at 20:43 on May 28, 2019 |
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May 28, 2019 10:17
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IOwnCalculus posted:Threw the Chinesium top on mine last night. For a loving $200 top, so far so good compared to the sun-roasted and incomplete Bestop that was on it. Turns out I was missing the bar that slides in the bottom of the rear window, since the thing didn't come with any of the removable panels. Picking one up tomorrow. Tell me more... does this Chinesium top have a CJ-7 version? I'll probably want something to hold the warm in when hunting season rolls around.
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Jun 2, 2019 15:48
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Sierra Offroad on Amazon, not sure if they make CJ tops. It's no Bestop, definitely thinner and vibrates more with wind, but it works and it's a third of the price. I would expect both this and Bestop to be shredded by the sun here anyway. Gratuitous clean Jeep. 
IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 04:28 on Jun 3, 2019 |
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Jun 3, 2019 04:25
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edit: nm
Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 06:55 on Jun 4, 2019 |
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Jun 3, 2019 05:03
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Had to diagnose an electrical issue with the XJ this weekend. The battery stopped charging altogether. Got a new battery and installed it... same problem. poo poo, don't tell me I'm going to have to replace the alternator, it's such a pain in the rear end to take out. I take a quick look at it... oh, the output terminal wire was so old it rusted through and snapped off. Yeah, that'll do it.  I was worried I was going to have to thread a brand new wire from the battery terminal, but there was more than enough slack on it. I was able to find new copper lugs and hex nuts that matched the size of the old ones. Then I trimmed and cleaned the end of the wire, crimped on the lug, and reattached it to the alternator. Everything works perfectly now! I guess I didn't really need a new battery, but the previous one was over 6 years old, so it doesn't hurt. I also took the opportunity to clean out all the dust and grime from in and around where the battery sits. I need to replace the brake pads and flush the brake fluid in the next couple weeks.
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Jun 3, 2019 17:14
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I rebuilt the transfer case today, and it went pretty well. Here it is as removed:  First thing I did was pressure wash it. And then I used a slightly-too-small hex head socket in the drain plug and stripped it out. It's the same exact thing I did to the fill plug a few months ago, so I took the same tact and ground the threads off of a big-rear end bolt so that it fit into the stripped out hole and welded it in. Now I have a matching 19mm headed fill and drain plugs, and I'll never need to buy the right sized hex head. I popped off the yoke. I don't remember using this much silicone when I installed the slip yoke eliminator. I tried using a little less during this rebuild.  I pulled off the tail housing after fighting against the silicone for a long time. I just wasn't hitting it hard enough with the rubber hammer to separate the tail from the main housing. Once it broke loose I popped out the seal and bearing and was happy to feel a little bit of grindy-ness when spinning it in my hand. Hopefully replacing this bearing gets rid of the squealing that I've been hearing. I ordered it directly from Teraflex because I assumed it would be a different bearing than the original tail housing. It's a #6207 bearing. I bought two from Teraflex, along with two seals, just in case it's a special kind of bearing and I can't source it down in Baja. Well now I know that you get a 6207 bearing in the standard np231 rebuild kit, so I have two spares.  Again it looks like I used too much silicone when sealing the case and it clogged up the filter quite a bit.  Here's my sausage finger showing you where the oil passage needs to line up. The mounting stud with the nut on it came out when I was separating the transfer case from the transmission. I put some red locktite on it and tightened it back into the transfer case with some vise grips.  The chain and everything looked in pretty good shape. It didn't seem like it was stretched out but I replaced it all anyway.  I replaced the plastic pads on the top shift fork. The lower fork doesn't seem to have pads that are replaceable.  I've got a nice pile of parts going. I kind of like knowing that I get to do all of that degreasing, just slowly and methodically. But I also get weird stress when my only vehicle is in pieces so I kind of have a love-hate relationship with all of those little tasks that just eat up time but need to be done to feel like you did the job right.  This job was the first time I've seen this kind of snap ring - it just has a little groove for a screwdriver to pop it out of it's nook, and then you get to try to grab it with some other little implement to pry it the whole way out.  I pulled out the planetary gear to get to the final bearings. The snap ring that keeps in the planetaries is comically large and I wish I'd taken a photo of it.  This bearing was the hardest part - I don't have any bearing pullers and I'm not sure what kind you'd need, so I just went about chiseling it down and out. It wasn't pretty and I scored the bearing surface a little bit, but not enough to hurt it I pray.  Old and slightly busted, new and complete:  Here it is all rebuilt with the new "extended" drain/fill plugs. I debated painting the whole thing but I think I'd rather be able to drive somewhere tomorrow. I put a coat of paint on the cross-member, taking it from orange back to satin black, and I also painted the transmission mount because it was pretty crusty.  The rebuild kit came with a bunch of spare parts - or at least I hope so   DizzyBum posted:Had to diagnose an electrical issue with the XJ this weekend. The battery stopped charging altogether. Got a new battery and installed it... same problem. poo poo, don't tell me I'm going to have to replace the alternator, it's such a pain in the rear end to take out. I take a quick look at it... oh, the output terminal wire was so old it rusted through and snapped off. Yeah, that'll do it. I love when the fix is something simple like that! It'll make a big difference to your peace-of-mind too, knowing that you've fixed a bad connection. Also nice to know that your battery is nice and fresh
Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 06:39 on Jun 4, 2019 |
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Jun 4, 2019 06:20
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Think we finally got this whole gear thing down. Did my rear today, 4.10 to 5.13. We had done my friends front and rear over the past 2 weeks.    Drove home after a quick reprogram and she drives great. I will say having a friend with an air conditioned shop and multiple lifts really makes working on this Jeep a whole lot easier lol. Just did the rear today, took me and a buddy right around 4 hours. I’ll break these in and then do the fronts(pulled front drive shaft) in a few weeks when he gets back from some classic car cruise he’s going on.
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Jun 4, 2019 22:32
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That's awesome! I was too scared to try doing mine. What was the hardest part?
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Jun 5, 2019 05:15
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Astonishing Wang posted:That's awesome! I was too scared to try doing mine. What was the hardest part? Hmm hardest part. Making sure you had all the correct tools. I think a buddy spent a good $250-300 on tools we wound up needing that we didn't already have. But honestly, it's not THAT difficult. Setting the backlash and the pinion bearing load are probably the hardest parts, and as long as you have the right tools it's not bad. Since we had done a few already, we had figured out all the little tricks to get everything done in a timely manner. It's still a 4+ hour job no matter how much you know you're doing though. There's just so many steps you have to do to get everything done and you don't want to rush any of them. Doing the backlash and pinion bearing load probably take the longest as you're constantly pulling the carrier and pinion out to add/remove shims until you get the right readings. Everything else is kinda bolt on/off. I can see why shops charge so much though. To do both front/rear at one time would easily be 8+ hours and at a normal mechanic rate of $75/hr it's no wonder shops can charge $800-1000 for an install. We'll do my fronts in a few weeks once the guy who has this shop gets back from vaca, then there are 2 other people in our group who want theirs done, so I'm sure we'll be doing more here in the future.
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Jun 5, 2019 10:49
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Ok 1999 cherokee, wipers wont do intermittent, only slow and fast. Wiper fluid stopped working as well at the same time. I tried looking under the dash for a wiper module like the internet has suggested, but I'm pretty sure I don't have one. Where is the controller for this thing, in the wiper motor itself?
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Jun 24, 2019 19:38
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I just got everything fixed on my JL and now the rear seat won’t flip up. Internet says it’s a cable problem somewhere. I think it’s nice how Chrysler lets people with new Jeeps feel the same frustration as those with old ones. You’d usually have to wait years for random poo poo to break.
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Jun 24, 2019 20:48
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After upgrading to 35" tires I had to re-make the under-tire basket that I had just finished. This time I expanded it down so that it takes up the space behind the bumper and will be more useful for stuff in the future. I also skipped using the metal mesh in favor of 1/8" plate. hopefully that will help keep extreme dust away from the compressor. I used a cylinder lock to secure the door closed. The next step is closing off the sides with some sort of door, and then mounting a work light or two for camp setup and extra visibility when needed. I'm going to try to come up with some sort of a pivoting light mount.
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Jun 24, 2019 21:57
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98 xj, v8 grand cherokee front springs, alignment last year, to factory specs- Been getting a ton of death wobble on the highway lately, cant hit a bump over 50 without it shaking like hell. I put the jeep on the lift today and I cant find any play in the ball joints, tie rods, pitman arm, whatever that big link/brace is called im drawing a blank right now. Could the steering stabilizer being shot/worn out be causing this? It looked old but there wasn't any sign of the leakage or anything... Control arm/link arm bushings looked very dry and cracking but we put the tranny jackstand under the axle to get some weight off them, not much play there... Need some advice!
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Jun 25, 2019 01:18
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First place I'd check is the track bar at the axle. If the track bar gets loose it can wallow out the hole. How are the tires? Replacing the stabilizer won't hurt and will likely help a bit, but everyone always says it's just a bandaid to the problem and not a cure.
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Jun 25, 2019 04:02
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Astonishing Wang posted:First place I'd check is the track bar at the axle. If the track bar gets loose it can wallow out the hole. Thats what I had heard, about the steering stabilizer. The track bar was tight as far as we could tell, I cant move it at all when the jeeps on the ground, ill try and pry on it at the bushing/bolt tho see if it wiggles. Tires are in good shape, theyre some 215/75/15 hancock generic street tires, theyre about half worn id say, ive put 12k on them.
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Jun 25, 2019 04:24
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Something is worn out and allowing oscillation. Control arm bushings can cause it too. If you can't find the worn part by poking at the suspension, start throwing parts at it.
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Jun 25, 2019 07:03
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Hi Jeep Goons. I'm looking to join your ranks with a rather limited budget and have been looking mostly at YJs since they are in a nice price/quality place. Specifically, I'm looking at this one because it looks like it's had a ton done to it (frame has been cleaned up/repaired, new transmission/clutch, etc) but it's been on the market for a couple weeks with a steadily dropping price: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2149932138450926/ What makes me nervous is this "It could use some love on the suspension as tie rods and or stabilizers maybe even tires balanced. Does not have a Jeep death wobble." I chatted with the owner a bit and he says "No death wobble but definitely doesn’t ride like a race car kind of a little float. It drives fine that way." Am I about to get in way over my head and spend thousands of dollars and a bunch of time trying to track down the suspension issue? I have to admit that the post above's advice of "start throwing parts at it" is a bit unsettling. stealie72 fucked around with this message at 13:03 on Jul 3, 2019 |
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Jul 3, 2019 13:00
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stealie72 posted:
This is used Jeep ownership in a nutshell. If you aren't prepared to do this on a questionably owned used older Jeep, then avoid  "It could use some love on the suspension as tie rods and or stabilizers maybe even tires balanced. Does not have a Jeep death wobble." Def has death wobble lol
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Jul 3, 2019 14:04
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| # ? Apr 29, 2024 00:10 |
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That's a TJ, not a YJ. YJs can't get death wobble (at least not in the same way) due to having leaf springs. Since I think the majority of us in here own coil spring live axle Jeeps, all of which are prone to DW, we're a skewed bunch to ask. But the reality is that a coil spring Jeep has a lot of bushings and joints holding the front end together, all of which need to be in good condition to work properly. The reason "shotgun parts at it" works for DW is because a) the parts are cheap, b) the labor to do them all isn't much worse than doing just one, and c) it is near impossible to definitively identify any one part that is causing it. A bushing might look perfectly fine and not shift around while you poke at it, but could go sloppy under the weight of the vehicle. Also, I've never ridden in a proper Jeep of any vintage where the ride couldn't be generously described as poo poo. DJ5, YJ, multiple TJs, and a JK. The JK rides the least poo poo out of that lot, but none of those will ever let you forget you are driving a Jeep. My WJ could pass for a regular crossover until you went over rough enough bumps. As far as that TJ in particular? I'd be worried about rust since it's already had the frame "patched". At the same time that's cheap as gently caress for a TJ and would probably approach part-out pricing here in AZ. The six inch lift is perhaps a lot of the problem anyway, you don't really need that much to fit 35s.
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Jul 3, 2019 14:14
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