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Crossposting because the world needs to know: Holy poo poo, I found something worse than those chainsaw wheels for angle grinders.  Cursed Weed Whacker Head of Self Maiming +5 Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 03:33 on Jun 5, 2019 |
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Jun 5, 2019 03:27
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Does the chain get driven somehow or is just a flail? e: just
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Jun 5, 2019 04:57
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I think it's probably a joke because there would be no benefit to it being a chain rather than rigid.
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Jun 5, 2019 05:00
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~Coxy posted:I think it's probably a joke because there would be no benefit to it being a chain rather than rigid. https://toolsdirectsales.com/produc...-saw-chain-1pcs
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Jun 5, 2019 05:46
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It doesn't even have any of the sharp parts, the pointy bits are the drive links. But it's definitely made from actual chainsaw links because they have the stamped code that denotes pitch or gauge
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Jun 5, 2019 08:09
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He didn't say it wasn't an elaborate joke.
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Jun 5, 2019 12:03
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Bad Munki posted:Crossposting because the world needs to know: For when you are trimming the lawn... For the Emperor! 
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Jun 5, 2019 16:18
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Dog Case posted:It doesn't even have any of the sharp parts, the pointy bits are the drive links. But it's definitely made from actual chainsaw links because they have the stamped code that denotes pitch or gauge Excellent, that means it won't make a clean cut when it becomes a projectile.
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Jun 5, 2019 17:21
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Well, so much for the compressor. Go to use it properly for the first time and the drain plug is leaking air rendering the whole thing useless. And of course the support line is closed for the weekend.
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Jun 7, 2019 18:42
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I would expect that it ships with the drain plug open. Are you saying you can't close it? The pancake compressors I've used in the past have had a threaded plug.
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Jun 7, 2019 18:50
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I would expect that it ships with the drain plug open. Are you saying you can't close it? The pancake compressors I've used in the past have had a threaded plug. It shipped with it closed, I opened it to drain it after the test use the other day, and now despite closing it all the way (it's a threaded plug with a knurled end for finger operation) it's leaking when turned on.
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Jun 7, 2019 18:52
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No, wait, it was me being stupid. I thought "out" was "open" when actually "out" is "closed".
Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Jun 7, 2019 |
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Jun 7, 2019 18:52
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Any air related tool it is good practice to take apart all the fittings, teflon tape the threads, and put it back together. I have yet to see something from a factory not have some kind of leak.
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Jun 7, 2019 19:27
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JEEVES420 posted:Any air related tool it is good practice to take apart all the fittings, teflon tape the threads, and put it back together. I have yet to see something from a factory not have some kind of leak. It seems pretty solid so far, apart from that misunderstanding.
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Jun 7, 2019 19:43
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Jaded Burnout posted:It seems pretty solid so far, apart from that misunderstanding. Aww, too bad their support desk were closed.
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Jun 7, 2019 21:02
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Mr. Mambold posted:Aww, too bad their support desk were closed. Yeah I'm going to enjoy when they call me back. It's going to be like that time with the printer..
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Jun 7, 2019 21:07
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Hello again sir is it plugged in? Did you put paper in it? Edit: vvvv that's hilarious that reason is so much better Harry Potter on Ice fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Jun 7, 2019 |
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Jun 7, 2019 21:08
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In this particular case the odd behaviour was sequential diamonds of black being printed on every page. When we got it apart it turned out a post-it had drifted into the outfeed and was looping around the roller.
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Jun 7, 2019 21:09
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Nail guns arrived from the colonies. Smells like freedom. Edit: OK so here's a fun one. After much digging it looks like my compressor has 1/4" euro-style quick connect fittings, as does my curled hose, 30m hose, and blower accessories. My 15m hose has 1/4" BSP fittings (threaded ones). These guns have 1/4" NPT quick connect fittings which are very similar to euro ones but (of course) different. Fun Times With Adaptors ahead. Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 16:31 on Jun 8, 2019 |
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Jun 8, 2019 14:46
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Jaded Burnout posted:Nail guns arrived from the colonies. Smells like freedom. Just swap the nailer to euro plug.
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Jun 8, 2019 17:23
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sharkytm posted:Just swap the nailer to euro plug. Yeah this is where I'm thinking of going with it. I'll need to figure out what's required of me to do so, having not worked with air lines before. Removing the plugs looks easy enough, putting in new ones safely and securely would be a fresh task to me.
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Jun 8, 2019 17:29
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Back out the old one, put Teflon tape on the new one, screw it in. Done.
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Jun 8, 2019 18:12
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sharkytm posted:Back out the old one, put Teflon tape on the new one, screw it in. Done. Gotcha. Could someone explain what locktite is, or however it's branded, with regards to when you really don't want something backing out? Or is it a "thread locker"? More often used in car bolts? Or something?
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Jun 8, 2019 18:54
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Jaded Burnout posted:Gotcha. Could someone explain what locktite is, or however it's branded, with regards to when you really don't want something backing out? Or is it a "thread locker"? More often used in car bolts? Or something? You don't want loctite on something like this. Yes, it's a thread locker, but that fitting's not going to back out. Teflon tape is sufficient for air leackage. Just pick up an appropriate *consults british handbook* spanner and swap em out.
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Jun 8, 2019 18:57
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sharkytm posted:Back out the old one, put Teflon tape on the new one, screw it in. Done. If anyone lurking this thread has never used teflon tape and is wondering why they're making a mess of it.. wrap it clockwise (the way you screw in so it doesn't come undone) and don't feel bad asking questions because that is the only way to learn  learning new poo poo is cool
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Jun 8, 2019 18:58
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Mr. Mambold posted:You don't want loctite on something like this. Yes, it's a thread locker, but that fitting's not going to back out. Teflon tape is sufficient for air leackage. Just pick up an appropriate *consults british handbook* spanner and swap em out. Sure, I meant more in general as it's a thing I've never fully understood, having not had need for it yet and not really sure when one might want to use it. Applications with severe vibration?
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Jun 8, 2019 19:00
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Jaded Burnout posted:Sure, I meant more in general as it's a thing I've never fully understood, having not had need for it yet and not really sure when one might want to use it. Applications with severe vibration? Yes. Every fastener in robotics is either Loctite 243, 263, or anti seized. If it's plastic, then it's 425.
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Jun 8, 2019 19:04
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Jaded Burnout posted:Sure, I meant more in general as it's a thing I've never fully understood, having not had need for it yet and not really sure when one might want to use it. Applications with severe vibration? Pretty much. There are different strengths of it so that projects vary but you can have light loctite for fine screws that you want to stay in place to heavy duty for old lawnmowers that want to fall apart on you like mine. Vibrations don't need to be too heavy to make screws/bolts loosen over time Harry Potter on Ice fucked around with this message at 19:11 on Jun 8, 2019 |
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Jun 8, 2019 19:05
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Jaded Burnout posted:Sure, I meant more in general as it's a thing I've never fully understood, having not had need for it yet and not really sure when one might want to use it. Applications with severe vibration? Well yeah, car bolts is a very good example.
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Jun 8, 2019 19:31
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sharkytm posted:Just swap the nailer to euro plug. Oh I was going to mention, this won't work in the same way for the 15m hose which has crimped fittings. I'd have to look into what's involved in adding fittings to hoses, or see whether I'm in luck and the thread end of a euro plug is compatible with 1/4" BSP. The UK's position half way between the US and Europe while never quite committing to either can be a blessing and a curse. Edit: and indeed it is, it looks like the machined thread on the tool itself is whatever y'all have called 1/4" BSP. Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Jun 8, 2019 |
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Jun 8, 2019 19:52
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The tools are probably 1/4" NPT.
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Jun 8, 2019 20:28
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sharkytm posted:The tools are probably 1/4" NPT. It's possible, I'm not able to tell the difference with the naked eye. Certainly seems compatible enough, the proof will be in the pudding tomorrow when I go get some parts.
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Jun 8, 2019 20:58
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Jaded Burnout posted:Sure, I meant more in general as it's a thing I've never fully understood, having not had need for it yet and not really sure when one might want to use it. Applications with severe vibration? As the previous owner of a Kawasaki KLR650 (single 650cc cylinder, affectionately referred to as 'thumpers'), I used to buy blue Locktite (the 'non-permanent') by the case. That poo poo, or even the Walmart knockoff is such a ripoff. I bet it costs about $0.10 to make a tiny, 5mL tube that sells for $5-$10+. It does work, though.
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Jun 9, 2019 00:51
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I used blue loctite on the bolts of an Ikea stool that previously was getting loose every few months. I've also put it on little set screws for things like toilet paper holders and towel racks. Works beautifully.
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Jun 9, 2019 02:08
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It's time to look at upgrading my 12v Porter Cable drill/driver I bought about a decade ago and I'm looking at two kits from HD this Fathers Day. M18 18-Volt Lithium-Ion Brushless Cordless Compact Drill/Impact Combo Kit (2-Tool) W/ (2) 2.0Ah Batteries, Charger & Bag M12 FUEL 12-Volt Li-Ion Brushless Cordless Hammer Drill and Impact Driver Combo Kit (2-Tool)w/ Free M12 3/8 in. Ratchet I like the size/weight of my current 12v set and have only run into a handful of situations where I had to pull out my corded drill. However, upgrading to the 18v sounds real tempting too. Anything else I should be looking at? I can probably go up to $300 if it's a good deal.
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Jun 9, 2019 05:10
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fwiw I get a ton more use out of my 18v driver and that upgrade was much more noticeable than the drill which I use less. I felt like I needed to charge my makita 12v much more often than my dewalt 18v as well, If you plan on any medium/heavy use with the driver I'd go 18v
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Jun 9, 2019 05:20
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:fwiw I get a ton more use out of my 18v driver and that upgrade was much more noticeable than the drill which I use less. I felt like I needed to charge my makita 12v much more often than my dewalt 18v as well, If you plan on any medium/heavy use with the driver I'd go 18v Yeah, I figure if I was going to upgrade I would at least make it worth the money and do the 18v. This Rigid kit looks interesting too 18-Volt Lithium-Ion Cordless Brushless Hammer Drill and Impact Driver 2-Tool Combo Kit with (2) 4.0Ah Batteries, Charger
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Jun 9, 2019 05:50
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Get the M12 fuel hammer drill, IMO. You won’t regret having a tool that size even if you get an eighteen‐volt drill down the line.
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Jun 9, 2019 06:02
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You'd be surprised how much power the M12 line has. I grab mine a lot just for the lower weight / smaller size.
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Jun 9, 2019 08:11
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I really like my 12v Bosch, and it does a handy job on plaster (the first layer of our walls) and wood, but when it gets down to the actual stone walls that our 200+ year old stone house in Scotland is made of, it basically can't handle it. So, I'm curious, is the Milwaukee M12 any good on stone? I know that eventually I'm going to just get, in 18v, a Makita DHP481 https://www.axminster.co.uk/makita-dhp481z-lxt-combi-drill-18v-body-only-506712 , as I already have a Makita LXT 18v circular saw, but was curious if all 12v were built equal...
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Jun 9, 2019 10:23
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