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I've gone through five sets of NT01 in the last year, but I've yet to get a chance to drive the RC1 because they were on backorder in 255/40/17 for like a year up until this month. I'll order a set this month but I won't get to try them until September  Let me know what you think if you manage to try them  I think we finally got a Nanking AR1 supplier here in the US (RCompUSA out of California), but I've yet to hear anything.
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May 23, 2019 22:26
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Can definitely recommend the Brainerd SCCA comp school, we had a blast. Heavy rain Wednesday, sun on Thursday and light rain Friday. Spent majority of Friday in cop cars with instructors, which are 1-to-1 with students. Then got a session in the rain in the spec racer fords to see what they were like to drive. Tons of track time Thursday and a bunch today. Cars were easy to drive and instruction was great. Now I'm really excited to get my car running and on track. These are the tires we were running, did better than I thought they would in the wet as long as you avoided standing water. Hit a puddle and hold on because you're going for a ride. 
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May 25, 2019 01:51
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~ drama ~ https://tiremeetsroad.com/2019/05/31/hpde-drivers-allege-rearden-racing-monopolized-open-session-left-frs-wrecked/
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Jun 1, 2019 18:17
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What the hell with those guys. If someone overslowing for a corner at an hpde causes you to go airborne into the grass is your fault. What a bunch of idiots. The other crash is just totally unnecessary--you never assume what the driver ahead is going to do.
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Jun 1, 2019 20:33
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That team should take a healthy suspension or ban even.
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Jun 1, 2019 20:58
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Assholes didn't want to pay for they're own session. The FRS owner should be getting his damages paid I hope but probably not, that's what track day insurance is for. I can only hope that they get blackballed from HPDEs in the area.
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Jun 2, 2019 04:29
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Going out to MSR Cresson in Texas this weekend. It's gonna be hot.
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Jun 5, 2019 16:42
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I've hit a wall where I now understand why some of the ST/TT guys would show up late, pull the car off a trailer, run a couple of sessions that they cut short, load the car back on the trailer and go home. It seems like the local TT participation is centered around one guy in each class that runs Hoosiers and takes the win (and has for a while), along with a few others that play around. It appears that beating the sitting king would likely end their participation or start an arms race that ends up burning everyone out cost wise. I hosed up and went to mainlining the good poo poo too quick BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 01:39 on Jun 16, 2019 |
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Jun 16, 2019 01:27
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Obviously the solution is to step the costs up another few notches and go wheel to wheel in densely populated classes.
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Jun 16, 2019 01:45
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We have no densely populated classes here, unfortunately. This is what a normal weekend looks like: ST: http://timingscoring.drivenasa.com/...-%205-19-19.pdf TT: http://timingscoring.drivenasa.com/...-%205-19-19.pdf Biggest event of the year is our crossover with NASA SoCal region where SM balloons to 25-30. Normally it is 4-6 and is the most populated class.
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Jun 16, 2019 01:52
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loving hell, the RC track gets better turnouts than that.
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Jun 16, 2019 02:02
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IOwnCalculus posted:loving hell, the RC track gets better turnouts than that. Yeah, it is unfortunate. Just a pretty casual area for this kinda stuff, which is surprising given the amount of money floating around.
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Jun 16, 2019 02:06
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Good lord, how can you pay track rentals like that?
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Jun 16, 2019 02:11
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The DE groups are overfilled and track rentals are relatively cheap here. On the extreme end of things, I go to a promoter events at Chuckwalla where there are two run groups for six 30 min sessions with 10-12 people in them for $160. Normal NASA events with attendance as shown (plus 20-25 each in DE1/2/3/4) are $180.
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Jun 16, 2019 02:16
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That sucks for racing but is awesome if you want seat time.
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Jun 16, 2019 14:01
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Running NCM with the Locost on Saturday. Yesterday I installed oil sump baffle and we chopped off the very unsafe 'roll bar' to fabricate a proper one. Today is flush brakes and replace all the other fluids as well as figure out a catch can. Not last minute yet but I hate being in this spot of doing important stuff the weekend and into the week of a track day. Lola is at the fabricator getting some updates to the cage so I can race modern formula ford with SCCA if I want to.
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Jun 16, 2019 14:29
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Are SCCA races well attended in your area?
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Jun 17, 2019 03:03
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FatCow posted:Are SCCA races well attended in your area? Made more progress on the Locost yesterday. Catch can fitted, went over every nut/bolt in the suspension and had part of the cage tacked into place by the time I left. Still need to flush the brakes and possibly install a new harness if there's time.
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Jun 17, 2019 13:20
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I’m not sure about other regions but in Texas both NASA and SCCA have seen a decline in race participation. It seems like WRL and other endurance orgs are the reason for that, at least around here.
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Jun 17, 2019 15:36
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I drive a BBW posted:I’m not sure about other regions but in Texas both NASA and SCCA have seen a decline in race participation. It seems like WRL and other endurance orgs are the reason for that, at least around here. NASA north east seems to have rebounded after a decline of a few years, but it seems to be dependent on class, some classes have shrunk, some have grown, i'd say overall its about even (specE30 was 26 cars this past race!). Endurance racing definitely stole people, but some have come back as the costs in those series has soared and priced people out (myself included). Renting a seat in AER, i've been quoted ~$4k/weekend, some don't include the friday/qualifying, some do. Most teams also demand a large liability number, some are over $50k liability if the car is destroyed while you are driving, regardless of fault of course. And these are normally for the slower classes, class 2 and 3, can't imagine the numbers for a class 5 car. Chump car remains affordable from what I've seen, WRL doesn't run around here so i can't compare the prices.
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Jun 17, 2019 15:50
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Trip report - (National Corvette Museum) NCM Motorsports Park with Binge Tokyo was great. Wonderful track and a fun organization to run with, I'll be headed back there for sure. Day started off with this as we finished up the driver's meeting. We were at the blue dot under 69.  First session for I think all run groups was cancelled for lightning within 10 miles. 2nd session for intermediate wasn't cancelled so we went out on a very wet track with fairly substantial rain to learn the track. Visibility was garbage and there were several spots with deep standing water and rivers flowing across. Rain eventually stopped so they took an early lunch break to dry the track. First session after lunch still had a few wet patches and small puddles but nothing horrendous. Following that I switched from 200TW street tires to slicks and started working on getting lap times down. 3rd and 4th session were completely dry and the Locost was very quick. Broke 2:30 3rd session and 4th session managed a 2:25.582 with tons of room for improvement. Packed up early since more rain was rolling in and I didn't want to change tires yet again. Videos are uploading to youtube now, will toss some links in here once they're done. I spent the dry session fighting fuel starvation coming out of the tighter corners. Even with the tank topped all the way off I'd get what felt like fuel starvation within 5 or 6 laps. I haven't dug into the current cell yet to see what the fuel pick up situation is but I'll either be adding a surge tank (aka swirl pot) or designing a cell to sit across the rear under the new cage. I'm sure the hot engine bay and OEM R1 fuel pump aren't helping things. I also need to put in a proper catch can so less oil ends up everywhere. Some pics of the current setup and rear.    Instead of pulling with the VW this time I rented a truck from Enterprise Trucks. Got a 2019 Ram 2500 diesel Bighorn which is just a monster of a truck. Towed the very light locost like it wasn't even there, was right around 1/10th of it's towing capacity. Drove through some really bad rain and wind which made me glad to have a proper truck in front of the trailer getting blown around. Ended up being about $285 for a three day rental, I'll probably be doing this way more often. NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 20:44 on Jun 25, 2019 |
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Jun 25, 2019 20:41
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Have you looked into those Holley fuel mat thingies? They seem pretty affordable, though I don't have personal experience
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Jun 25, 2019 20:44
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That's one option I'm looking into. Overall reviews of them seem very positive and being fairly pressed for space it is an attractive option. A small hydramat along with some foam (pretty sure there isn't any) would be a very easy fix. Videos as promised, still learning the track. 200TW tires in session 2, slicks after that. I discovered towards the end of the last session I didn't need to brake at all going into 4 which helped lap times a bit. Session 2 https://youtu.be/rifeKYdE3hs https://youtu.be/hWKR_I6mqjY Session 3 https://youtu.be/EUP37syyLR0 https://youtu.be/gxOCZQBnVO0 Session 4 https://youtu.be/ly7kQlBI3S8 https://youtu.be/cAFUwfGGBMM - gopro got loose, enjoy watching the sky NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Jun 26, 2019 |
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Jun 25, 2019 20:51
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Good news - I figured out my fuel starvation issue. Bad news - Previous owner and in this case builder is an idiot I was probably getting starvation on braking that I wasn't feeling until I was trying to accelerate out. Supply on right, return on right both just dead end with a dual male AN fitting stuck through the cell. No foam or anything else to limit sloshing. I've been curious about the Holley Hyrdamat since I saw it released so I'm going that route, tossing a small one of those in with a bunch of tank foam.  Also looking for recommendations for a oil catch can under 2.5 inches in diameter. My brake clean hacked can worked but once it got to about half way full it puked the rest everywhere, of course it wasn't vented or anything because I'm an idiot and it was a last minute addition.
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Jun 27, 2019 20:43
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At least builder omissions like that are easier to fix than horrible bodges.
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Jun 27, 2019 21:39
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NitroSpazzz posted:Also looking for recommendations for a oil catch can under 2.5 inches in diameter. My brake clean hacked can worked but once it got to about half way full it puked the rest everywhere, of course it wasn't vented or anything because I'm an idiot and it was a last minute addition. That's pretty small. I like to have the hoses and can(s) as large as possible, especially if it routes back to the intake, to hopefully keep velocity down and limit the amount of oil consumption. And obviously can design and baffling plays a role there too. As I deal with subarus, which have a tendency to pull oil through the pcv on track, I like to have a big, baffled can that takes all the pcv lines, drains back to the crankcase, and then goes back to the intake if possible to keep some vacuum in the system vs just an open setup ([rl=https://crawfordperformance.com/collections/dual-chamber-v3-aos-kits]like these[/url], as much as I dislike that guy it's a pretty good product). Although on the race car that still didn't work, possibly because the vent return was too close to the turbo inlet and our can didn't have good baffling. We wound up routing the AOS top vent into a 2nd can and did without crank vacuum. Very little oil made it's way in there after that, when before it was sucking in a ton.
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Jun 27, 2019 22:13
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I've ended up somehow with a spare Miata. (Long story.) It's an '01 that has been essentially used up as a daily driver. The interior and top are shot. I'm kicking around ideas on what to do with it; the SCCA group here is kinda clique-ish, from what I could tell at the two autocrosses. I did meet nice people from the other regions, though. So I've considered stripping it out to make it an autocross car, and getting one of those ridiculous $400 eBay hardtops just so I can park it outside. Then I got curious about Lemons racing; I know this is a dramatic step up in that it requires a full cage, fire suppression gear, welded up firewalls and all. Just mentally tallying things up looks like about 5 grand to get built up. Has this been peoples' experience? My skill level is I can DIY an install on a pre-built cage and tack it in for a better welder than me to finish.
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Jun 29, 2019 04:31
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Spec Miata is mostly safety equipment. I'd say go for broke.
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Jun 29, 2019 05:10
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Spec miata requires a bolted on OEM hardtop. The replacement soft top is not that expensive and installation isn't hard either. Interiors are on redlineautoparts.com all day long, especially for NBs.
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Jun 29, 2019 10:28
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BlackMK4 posted:I've gone through five sets of NT01 in the last year, but I've yet to get a chance to drive the RC1 because they were on backorder in 255/40/17 for like a year up until this month. I'll order a set this month but I won't get to try them until September I'm bringing this post back up for two reason: 1. Maxxis NASA contingency for 2019 is a go. https://prizes.drivenasa.com/maxxis-tires-contingency-program/ Cliffs: 2 tires for first, 1 for 2nd and 3rd. Max claim 4 tires per event (day) This means I can cut my tire bill in half or less. Thank god. 2. Emilio has spent time out on the Nankang AR1 and wrote a little review. https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3227399#post3227399 Also, I still want a supermiata, but I am emotionally invested in the S2000 and without room for a third car, so that sucks.
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Jul 2, 2019 07:35
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Newbish questions, as I'm at the stripped-interior part of the Lemons build; 1. I want to wire my kill-switch to the left eyeball vent (if you guys have ones you want to recommend, I'm all ears); it's my understanding that you want the the battery and alternator wired to one side of the switch, and all the load draw on the other. But if I'm just adding separate lines from the alternator and battery to the switch, I'm not really interrupting the circuit with it, am I? What do I need to re-route? What gauge wire should I be using for both runs? 2. I don't see anything in Lemons rules about mounting the fire bottle in the trunk (they defer to "follow all manufacturer guidelines"), and I haven't bought one yet. Is it preferred practice to have the bottle in the passenger footwell? Or is it just personal preference? 3. I'm worried about the 2 inch clearance between roll cage and top of helmet rule, as a couple of the people that might be racing with me are 6'1". Do most racing seats sit lower than the stock MIata seat? Also, how much fab work is involved in mounting them? I know there's not going to be any "just put the 4 bolts in the same place as stock lol" options to buy, but I don't know (and can't tell by catalog pages) if the mounts are on their own rails, or just four posts, etc. 4. The only place I plan on upgrading beyond required safety equipment is the brakes; I'm shopping for kits and components and kind of had my priorities at: 1. Pads 2. Rotors 3. Hoses 4. Bigger calipers Am I on the right track here? Is the stock master cylinder going to be fine with bigger brakes?
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Jul 7, 2019 16:02
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Depends on what calipers you use. On a good aftermarket big brake kit, to compensate for a bigger rotor the caliper pistons are smaller.
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Jul 7, 2019 17:35
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https://streamable.com/rfcyd?fbclid=IwAR0knI_cob_MxwIG_ULRS98yPRIFN7jglVcRVAiKKka3KeNvHhKki5PWFIA Jesus christ
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Jul 8, 2019 04:12
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Jesus christ, indeed. Homie red misted af getting saved by tc all over the place before it even happened, good god Hope the dude in the Porsche is alright.
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Jul 8, 2019 05:01
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That is how I drive in a simulator when there are no consequences to my actions. What the actual gently caress.
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Jul 8, 2019 05:07
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TWSS posted:That is how I drive in a simulator when there are no consequences to my actions. What the actual gently caress. Oh, so you're the dude behind me on the first lap in half of the lobbies of Laguna Global MX5 in iRacing  
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Jul 8, 2019 05:09
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Zaphod42 posted:https://streamable.com/rfcyd?fbclid=IwAR0knI_cob_MxwIG_ULRS98yPRIFN7jglVcRVAiKKka3KeNvHhKki5PWFIA Holy poo poo. GT3 driver never saw it coming. Really, really impressive occupant-protection poo poo in modern cars. If those cars were 10 years older or either of those dudes was 5% less lucky...
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Jul 8, 2019 07:18
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GD_American posted:Newbish questions, as I'm at the stripped-interior part of the Lemons build; Kill switch wiring - https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/document.asp?DocID=TECH00109 Sorry haven't wired one of these in years but we used that when we did ours. Fire bottle - bottle can go nearly anywhere, trunk is common as is passenger compartment. Lines run from bottle to nozzles in cabin and engine bay which makes bottle location less critical. Seats - Most race seats bolt to the floor or to mounting brackets that bolt to the floor or seat slider rails. The bottom of a race seat is only a couple inches thick with the foam cushion and if you have one driver that's way taller than the others you can remove the bottom foam for extra clearance. Brakes - get basic non-drilled non-slotted blank rotors, run those with a mid range track pad, high temp brake fluid and stainless lines. That's all you need for lemons/chump/wrl/etc unless you have some monsterous boat of a car.
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Jul 8, 2019 20:30
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There is also this for Miatas https://www.advanced-autosports.com/products/spec-miata-floor-drop
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Jul 8, 2019 20:32
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TWSS posted:That is how I drive in a simulator when there are no consequences to my actions. What the actual gently caress. "Whoops, missed my brake marker by 200 feet, oh well"
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Jul 8, 2019 23:57
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