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What type of plants are you interested in growing? This poll is closed. |
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| Perennials! |
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142 | 20.91% |
| Annuals! |
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30 | 4.42% |
| Woody plants! |
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62 | 9.13% |
| Succulent plants! |
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171 | 25.18% |
| Tropical plants! |
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60 | 8.84% |
| Non-vascular plants are the best! |
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31 | 4.57% |
| Screw you, I'd rather eat them! |
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183 | 26.95% |
| Total: | 679 votes | ||
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Platystemon posted:Besides the cold, something that could have put it on death’s doorstep is waterlogged soil.
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Jun 20, 2019 14:20
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| # ? May 26, 2024 13:54 |
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Here's Bob Ross with his happy little voodoo-lily "tree".
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Jun 20, 2019 14:23
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Hirayuki posted:Here's Bob Ross with his happy little voodoo-lily "tree". So cute! Glad your voodoos are happy and healthy!!
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Jun 20, 2019 16:14
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I misses the kind email from voodoo lily person last year and I'm feeling pretty envious now
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Jun 20, 2019 16:58
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Can I get a recommendation for a container plant? I've got this fat Grecian-urn shaped planter, about the size of a beach ball, and the thing I bought to put in it died before I could transplant. It was an impulse purchase and probably a bad choice for my climate. I'm in zone 8 and need something that likes sun, heavy rainstorms every week, and doesn't need a lot of attention.
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Jun 21, 2019 03:20
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I vote cherry tomato plant. They love the sun and just need water. Having your own little tomatoes to nibble on is great  I'm growing some in a pot right now and while I've been having to water them in between storms they're doing gangbusters.
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Jun 21, 2019 03:38
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I’m not 100% sure about hardiness (I’m in 8b and bordering on 9) but agapanthus loves containers and actually loves being rootbound in them. Nice foliage and then cool big tall flowers. There are a few different varieties that bloom slightly different times-you could plant a few in there and see what likes it best. It’s fine in full sun or part shade. Might die back in winter but always comes back for me. That’s a big enough container you could probably plant just about anything in it, at least for a while.
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Jun 21, 2019 03:38
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there wolf posted:Can I get a recommendation for a container plant? I've got this fat Grecian-urn shaped planter, about the size of a beach ball, and the thing I bought to put in it died before I could transplant. It was an impulse purchase and probably a bad choice for my climate. I'm in zone 8 and need something that likes sun, heavy rainstorms every week, and doesn't need a lot of attention. Seconding crop plants. You'd like Sun Gold tomatoes. They're like candy. Also, I found this guy online and I like his silly shape. It looks like something out of a Dr. Seuss book. The Disc Houseleek: 
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Jun 21, 2019 05:15
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there wolf posted:Can I get a recommendation for a container plant? I've got this fat Grecian-urn shaped planter, about the size of a beach ball, and the thing I bought to put in it died before I could transplant. It was an impulse purchase and probably a bad choice for my climate. I'm in zone 8 and need something that likes sun, heavy rainstorms every week, and doesn't need a lot of attention. Japanese maples. There are tons of sun loving varieties and they do incredibly well in pots. You’ll need to be careful with the cultivar however. I’m 8b myself and have several Japanese and pseudo-Japanese maples in full sun. Also make sure you have really good draining soil in your mix - nothing “moisture control” or anything like that. Shishigashara or Autumn Moon work fine in the sun as smaller plants, from personal experience. What part of the country are you in? There are pockets of nurseries that specialize in these plants and should have more than just “red”, “green” or “Crimson Queen”. Here’s a great local specialist with lots of pictures if you need some inspiration. Any particular colors that you like?
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Jun 21, 2019 06:12
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Solkanar512 posted:Japanese maples. There are tons of sun loving varieties and they do incredibly well in pots. You’ll need to be careful with the cultivar however. I’m 8b myself and have several Japanese and pseudo-Japanese maples in full sun. Also make sure you have really good draining soil in your mix - nothing “moisture control” or anything like that. It's not really a good tree pot, or I might be tempted by some of those wilder ones. I'm in Atlanta and Japanese maples are pretty popular just as yard trees; I've actually got one already that's eating my shed. No on tomatoes because I'd have to battle critters for the fruit. The pot is on my front steps, and I really just want something bright by the door. I'll have to ask about agapanthus at the local nursery. I really like the variegated variety.
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Jun 21, 2019 07:58
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Get something from the Bushel and Berry line. They are intended for growing in containers and looking good while doing it. Will it be as low maintenance as a non‐edible? No. This is blueberry “Pink Icing”: 
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Jun 21, 2019 08:15
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there wolf posted:Can I get a recommendation for a container plant? I've got this fat Grecian-urn shaped planter, about the size of a beach ball, and the thing I bought to put in it died before I could transplant. It was an impulse purchase and probably a bad choice for my climate. I'm in zone 8 and need something that likes sun, heavy rainstorms every week, and doesn't need a lot of attention. Does the pot have good drainage? I know sometimes the larger planters are just big bowls with no drains in the bottom, which will be a problem for a lot of things. My vote is for Croton, in potting soil mixed 50/50 with pine bark mulch. Add like 1 cup of guano or blood meal to make up for the nitrogen the bark sinks. Hubis fucked around with this message at 16:29 on Jun 21, 2019 |
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Jun 21, 2019 15:48
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Platystemon posted:Get something from the Bushel and Berry line. I'm not going to lie, those are rather nifty cultivars.
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Jun 21, 2019 17:13
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Anyone else here do indoor palms? This is my second go at it and I was wondering how much luck people have with the uphill battle. I keep a fan on it to keep mites off and it gets water as often as my lily. I was told that they need to be fertilized often. Any other pro-tips? 
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Jun 21, 2019 21:26
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drat. I've never seen anything like this. A succulent vine, with umbrella flowers? Ceropegia sandersonii, the Parachute Plant:
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Jun 22, 2019 07:23
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Check out Ceropegia ampliata if you want to see a wonderfully weird (see: phallic) plant.
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Jun 22, 2019 08:39
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 Amorphophallus titanum That’s Latin for “giant misshapen penis”
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Jun 22, 2019 08:46
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What is the reason behind a plant cultivar needing a different cultivar to be pollinated? https://www.provenwinners.com/plants/viburnum/all-glitters-arrowwood-viburnum-viburnum-dentatum-var-deamii https://www.provenwinners.com/plants/viburnum/all-glows-arrowwood-viburnum-viburnum-dentatum-var-deamii
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Jun 23, 2019 14:21
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Platystemon posted:Besides the cold, something that could have put it on death’s doorstep is waterlogged soil. Hubis posted:You could also get a small soil auger (basically a drill bit for dirt), drill a series of holes in lines radially outward from the tree, and packing them with calcined clay. This is a standard way of improving drainage around established trees, though this one might be too far gone/need more immediate relief. Thanks again. Drainage does sound like a likely problem. I've never done any aeration or other treatment to the lawn. To be honest, I don't think I have the interest in doing that much work to try to save a tree that's probably already dead. These apricot varieties are not self-fruitful, so I actually have a second apricot in our other (sloped) yard which is so far doing well. If it survives a few more years and seems healthy, maybe I'll replace this dead one, and do something about the drainage before I plant it.
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Jun 23, 2019 14:25
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In not-dying-fruit-tree news, our grapes are doing pretty great. All three of last year's vines have exceeded the height of the trellis and I've headed them. They're now growing their lateral shoots, which will become next year's fruiting canes. The bad news is two of the three trunks seem to be “bull canes.” These are overly vigorous shoots. They’re extra thick and have very long distances between the leaf nodes. Compare the picture of the normal Marquette cane pictured above with the Bluebell bull cane pictured below. Especially notice the length of the internodes, and the number and size of the leaves.  According to my research, bull canes should be avoided both for fruiting canes and for trunks. They're less fruitful, and less cold-hardy due to the extra thickness taking longer to harden off for winter. I'm going to continue training them as normal, but I'm mentally prepared for them to die over winter, and I'm definitely training new trunks next spring to replace them even if they survive. I wrote a blog post about this if you're interested in reading a little more.
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Jun 23, 2019 15:08
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lwoodio posted:What is the reason behind a plant cultivar needing a different cultivar to be pollinated? The whole point of sexual reproduction is to produce some variety in offspring so that some of them might be fitter than their parent. If the plant is pollinated by itself or a clone, it’s not taking advantage of that. It might be better to wait for dissimilar pollen to come around. So some plants have mechanisms to reject highly self-similar pollen. Other plants have strategies to keep their own pollen from reaching their own receptors but if it reaches them anyway, they don’t reject it. They can be receptive to pollen one day, then cease to be receptive and only then start producing pollen of their own. They never produce pollen before they cease to be receptive, so they can never fertilise themselves. And of course some plants just don’t care, especially if we’ve bred them not to.
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Jun 23, 2019 20:22
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Platystemon posted:The whole point of sexual reproduction is to produce some variety in offspring so that some of them might be fitter than their parent. Then there's F1 hybrids. To get the seeds for F1 hybrids, you need one specific mommy cultivar and one specific daddy cultivar, only those specific cultivars. That's necessary because breeders still haven't worked out the kinks in making the desired child plant consistently reproduce-able, while mommy and daddy already are. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 03:42 on Jun 24, 2019 |
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Jun 24, 2019 03:40
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well most of my plants survived the squall that kicked up a week ago, but now there's a nest of chipmunks in my yard and two of my sunflowers have been snapped in half, presumably because the munks tried climbing them. stupid cute little critters
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Jun 24, 2019 15:30
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So one of my grape vines just did this: If you don't have images enabled, it's on a cattle panel fence and it's been crawling up for some time now, and finally extended past the top. So, hooray! But now what do I do? I've heard something along the lines of you clip the top off, but... specifically how? Should I chop the trunk right above that tendril that's already making its way across the top of the fence (to the right)? Or should I be trying to bend the trunk down at all? I have a feeling it's the first one, but I'm just checking.
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Jun 25, 2019 23:38
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well, I dusted my sunflowers with crop dust because bugs won’t stop eating the poo poo out of them. I tried neem oil and the other natural thing to no avail, so now I’ve advanced to chemical weapons. they’re not eating the cucumbers or strawberries or any of the other flowers for some reason, just the sunflowers and one of my pepper plants. what’s a good resource to learn about pruning in general? I’ve never done it (beyond pinching flower buds off vegetables) and from reading the last few pages it seems important, or at least helpful, but I know nothing about it or how to decide what and where to prune e: also, does anyone know anything about wood lilies? I think they’re pretty and want to plant some. all the resources I’ve read say they need full shade, but the only ones I see are curbside or bordering roads around my neighborhood where they get jack dick amount of shade. and I guess I should plant the bulbs this fall if I’m going to do it.
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Jun 26, 2019 02:50
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I'm realizing now that the soil in my garden bed is poo poo. Can I remedy this without tearing everything out and starting over?
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Jun 26, 2019 04:07
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Bi-la kaifa posted:I'm realizing now that the soil in my garden bed is poo poo. Can I remedy this without tearing everything out and starting over? In what aspects is it poo poo and what do you have planted? Many things can be fixed without digging everything up.
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Jun 26, 2019 04:19
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Platystemon posted:In what aspects is it poo poo and what do you have planted? It's mostly clay and hasn't got much nutrients in it. Before I made the bed I mixed in a bunch of manure and compost to try and remedy it but it's still lacking. I've got some perennials and some sunflowers in there now. The leaves are going a bit yellow now. I've been fertilizing with 24-8-16 but I'm worried it's not a good long term solution.
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Jun 26, 2019 05:02
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Bi-la kaifa posted:It's mostly clay and hasn't got much nutrients in it. Before I made the bed I mixed in a bunch of manure and compost to try and remedy it but it's still lacking. I've got some perennials and some sunflowers in there now. The leaves are going a bit yellow now. I've been fertilizing with 24-8-16 but I'm worried it's not a good long term solution. Send a soil sample to a lab. Many public universities test soil for a small fee. I have a suspicion your soil is high, and if that’s so, plants can have trouble taking up nutrients no matter how much fertiliser is applied.
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Jun 26, 2019 06:04
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Every blooming season, I try to keep lily's flowers for as long as possible. I've always wanted to get one flower to last an entire year till blooming season rolls back around (where the flower turns greenish and stiff). Does anyone have any tips to pull this off? Might update occasionally on either of her flowers. There is a second smaller one in the back that has yet to open.
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Jun 26, 2019 07:39
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Bi-la kaifa posted:It's mostly clay and hasn't got much nutrients in it. Before I made the bed I mixed in a bunch of manure and compost to try and remedy it but it's still lacking. I've got some perennials and some sunflowers in there now. The leaves are going a bit yellow now. I've been fertilizing with 24-8-16 but I'm worried it's not a good long term solution. Yellow leaves are usually a sign of nitrogen deficiency. As Platystemon said, get a soil sample to rule out any pH issues or other chemical deficiencies. How composted was the manure you added? It might've been too "hot", or active, and is now decomposing and sucking up a lot of the soil's free nitrogen to do so. Wood-heavy mulch is known to do this. Other than that, topdress with 2" of well-rotted compost every fall and spring. Eventually (~5 years) you will have good soil. If it's really clay-y, mixing some sand with your compost can help. Clay soil compacts heavily, so you need something to mix in with a larger particle size to prevent compaction and improve drainage. I prefer topdressing to digging in because I don't want to disrupt the native microbial environment too badly - native fungi (mycorrhizae) help to break down mineral content to make it available to plants, and are usually missing from sterile composts. If your soil is really terrible, later on you may just want to build some raised beds so that you can control the soil content entirely.
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Jun 26, 2019 13:47
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Sir Lemming posted:So one of my grape vines just did this: You can go down to the fence but any amount of the top part will be fine or wrap it around the fence, the tendrils will grab on pretty quick. The very top is called the apical meristem and it's where the new growth happens, removing it will make the plant divert energy to the top remaining node and a new branch will pop out from there. I usually just pinch the top few very tiny leaves off and eat them, they're good and tender.
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Jun 26, 2019 15:11
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I. M. Gei posted:Tree Update: Everything is green and healthy, huge leaves, no immediate signs of trouble, and the longest shoot is now 1’ 9” long. I also haven’t watered it in forever because all the rain we’ve been getting has been doing it for me. I was thinking this morning how it's been so long since the last tree update! Everything going well over there? Should probably have some decent exciting new growth..
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Jun 26, 2019 15:31
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Sir Lemming posted:So one of my grape vines just did this: I'd just bend it over and wrap its tendrils around the top row wire of the fence. Eventually it will get the idea.
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Jun 26, 2019 18:06
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Sir Lemming posted:So one of my grape vines just did this: I cut the tops off of mine. This is supposed to force the plant to start growing lateral shoots, which will be next year's fruiting canes. When pruning, expect at least an inch of dieback, so don't cut too close to any nodes you want to keep. For your vine, I'd wait until the top is a little stronger. One source I read suggests that the trunk be at least 1/4" in diameter at the top trellis wire before pruning off the top.
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Jun 26, 2019 22:51
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So I was just handed a bunch of rose cuttings, looks to be first or second year growth. I took off what was left of the flowers, cut the bottoms and put them in water for now. My plan (once this thunderstorm is done) was to cut the leaves off, trim them into sections with several nodes, use root hormone and put them in a really well draining soil. Is that the right way to go about it? Should I do fewer but longer cuttings? Any good resources out there?
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Jun 27, 2019 00:21
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Solkanar512 posted:So I was just handed a bunch of rose cuttings, looks to be first or second year growth. I took off what was left of the flowers, cut the bottoms and put them in water for now. I've not had great luck rooting old fashioned roses (also make sure the cuttings are from roses that will actually grow on their own roots, not just grafted onto tougher rootstock) but a friend of mine is great at it and the above is what she does. She also thinks hardened off first yr growth roots best if you can find it that is thick enough, and she always leaves anything she wants to root in water for 24 hrs before sticking it too, then cuts off a fresh end and sticks it in some dirt.
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Jun 27, 2019 00:42
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ColdPie posted:I cut the tops off of mine. This is supposed to force the plant to start growing lateral shoots, which will be next year's fruiting canes. When pruning, expect at least an inch of dieback, so don't cut too close to any nodes you want to keep. For your vine, I'd wait until the top is a little stronger. One source I read suggests that the trunk be at least 1/4" in diameter at the top trellis wire before pruning off the top. Thanks, I'll wait a little longer and see if I can get it to do that. It's been growing extremely fast these last couple of days, like several inches per day, so I can afford to let it play out for a few more days and see what happens.
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Jun 27, 2019 01:07
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:At least here, roses seem to root better in the fall than in the summer, but this is a weird climate and YMMV. Otherwise your approach sounds about right. You could leave a few leaves on and it won't hurt if you keep them well watered/humid. I've never gotten anything less than pencil thick to root, and usually use cutting 6-8" long? Stick 3-4" in the dirt? Thank you so much! It’s not the end of the world if they don’t root but I’d like to stretch myself horticulturally.
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Jun 27, 2019 03:40
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| # ? May 26, 2024 13:54 |
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Can someone help me identify this? Using online guides for identifying conifer trees isn't getting me very far because it seems to have traits unique to firs, spruces, and pines. The cone was growing upwards.
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Jun 27, 2019 17:10
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