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IOwnCalculus posted:That's a TJ, not a YJ. YJs can't get death wobble (at least not in the same way) due to having leaf springs. IOwnCalculus posted:Since I think the majority of us in here own coil spring live axle Jeeps, all of which are prone to DW, we're a skewed bunch to ask. But the reality is that a coil spring Jeep has a lot of bushings and joints holding the front end together, all of which need to be in good condition to work properly. The reason "shotgun parts at it" works for DW is because a) the parts are cheap, b) the labor to do them all isn't much worse than doing just one, and c) it is near impossible to definitively identify any one part that is causing it. A bushing might look perfectly fine and not shift around while you poke at it, but could go sloppy under the weight of the vehicle. IOwnCalculus posted:Also, I've never ridden in a proper Jeep of any vintage where the ride couldn't be generously described as poo poo. DJ5, YJ, multiple TJs, and a JK. The JK rides the least poo poo out of that lot, but none of those will ever let you forget you are driving a Jeep. My WJ could pass for a regular crossover until you went over rough enough bumps. IOwnCalculus posted:As far as that TJ in particular? I'd be worried about rust since it's already had the frame "patched". At the same time that's cheap as gently caress for a TJ and would probably approach part-out pricing here in AZ. mattfl posted:This is used Jeep ownership in a nutshell. May let that one pass, despite the price. Thanks for talking sanity at me!
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Jul 3, 2019 14:26
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stealie72 posted:Suspension work is something I know nothing about, so it freaks me out a bit. Although "cheap and easy to replace" helps. I was new to suspension stuff and refreshed the entire front of my XJ without too much trouble (tie rod ends, stabilizer bushings, steering stabilizer, etc.). The most annoying thing is getting the old stuff off, like tie rod ends you really want a pickle fork and sledge hammer to just bust those bastards off. Parts really aren't that expensive (I think it was under $200 for all the stuff I did) and it goes back together fairly fast and easy. I think the whole job was under 5-6 hours for me. When you do it back together your steering wheel will probably be WAY off kilter, but don't worry that's an easy adjustment. You will definitely want to drive to a shop within a few days to get a proper alignment done too as everything will be out of whack a bit and could destroy your tires over time without aligning it again.
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Jul 3, 2019 19:29
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Or you can look into adjusting the toe-in by yourself - that's something that's definitely in the realm of a DIYer. Generally there's nothing to adjust except for the toe-in and the steering wheel.
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Jul 3, 2019 20:54
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stealie72 posted:Hi Jeep Goons. I looked at and drove way too many YJs and TJs last summer before I bought my YJ and friend bought his TJ. These were all around that same price range up to $5k and what we found was that the YJs had sold frames but had some rust in the body and/or floors. The TJs under $5k were all sketchy as hell and very deceiving at first glance. They'd look good outside, but the frames were all in various states of disrepair or the tubs were rotted out around the body mounts with the tub sagging down over them. Again these were all $5k or less in IN, OH and one in Northern KY. I ended up with a $2700 YJ that I would trust to drive across the country with a Bible-sized folder of records and receipts. I'm currently prepping it for paint after welding in some patches around the "JEEP" logos on both sides. Downside is that it rides like a log wagon and tops out about 65. My friend bought a 2001 Apex edition for $4700 on a weekend I couldn't go with him to check it out and was hell-bent on bringing one home. He's now $1600 (Saf-T-Caps and labor) into frame repairs. His was patched like the one you're looking at and had started to rot aound the patches from the inside. When the guy at the 4x4 shop cut the frame to install the caps, the passenger side shattered into chunks of rust and the driver's side wasn't far behind although that side looked solid when it went to the shop. Now that he has the frame repaired, the rollbar needs to come out because the carpet was hiding the rusty sheetmetal where the cage attaches at the rear passenger side and where the center hoop meets the floor behind the driver's side seat. When you go shopping, take a large screwdriver and stop at a gas station or somewhere and poke around on the frame. You might look like a nut to onlookers, but you could save yourself a huge headache. One guy in Ohio had a really nice looking TJ for $2950. I messaged him on Facebook about it and he had just bought it for $5k and luckily he was honest. He bought it, took it through some mud and then to the car wash and sprayed it top to bottom. When he used the sprayer, it blew chunks of expanding foam out of the frame where it kicks up in front of the rear axle and he was just taking a loss on it. TL;DR: Buy the latest series your budget allows (unless you have a nostalgia-boner for YJs like me), but be vigilant when test driving TJs and check the frame with a fine toothed comb. Oh, and remember that any "body armor" is probably hiding rust.
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Jul 4, 2019 00:12
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Two things I've seen on the road this week that looked amazing were a lifted Commander(looked like a new xj!!) nice mild lift on maybe 31's and the new Wrangler pickup. The pickup looked so good I dare say it's probably worth the money.
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Jul 4, 2019 01:38
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always be closing posted:The pickup looked so good I dare say it's probably worth the money. I've seen a few in person now, including a Rubicon, and they make me want to spend. I would wait a couple more years to see what bugs shake out the first year models, the first year of the diesel (next year), and also to see if they eventually drop a HEMI IN THAT SUMBITCH. But they are pretty goddamn sweet in person.
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Jul 5, 2019 17:52
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Oh Jeep thread, I'm back asking about more bad choices. This one is intriguing, either a diamond in the rough or a host of lurking problems. This is originally a Canada Jeep, 90k miles now. Clutch and brake lines replaced around 70k. It drove surprisingly well for having 3 matching tires. It was undercoated at some point, 75% of that remains and the rest is exposed rust. I supposed thats better than all rust, but it gives a nasty texture. The bumpers and fenders are in poor shape, but there's plenty of solutions there. Most concerning, the bottom of the doors, below the grill and the windshield frame are rusty. It all looked to be surface rust for now, not really any bubbling paint. Looking for advice here, maybe some touch up spraying would fix these up, but hard to tell. I've seen others of this age and the hinges are atrocious. Electronic sway bars do nothing, front axle lock flashes. It may be engaged, it was hard to tell. The rear one works. It sounded like a tractor, there may be an exhaust leak, or its just the 3.8 being a 3.8. The mud terrains have some small cracking around the bottom of the lugs, which is odd since 3 are near new depth. Is this typical? The spare is the worst, so it was probably wasn't rotated in. The spare rim also doesn't match with a bad spray job. I don't need a Rubicon for the off-roading I'll do, but at the price with some cleaning up the paint it would hold value better. Would definitely prevent wanting to splurg on any drivetrain stuff later. In some busy traffic taking it back it indicated 12.5mpg, 15mpg on the highway. The lower end might be truly lower than I want to deal with. https://www.autoconnectionoh.com/details/used-2008-jeep-wrangler-unlimited/51952598
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Jul 5, 2019 18:46
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Run away. They cracks are dry rot. 3 matching tires? Solid axles dont like that. Those electric sway bars crap the bed all the time but the diff lock is worrisome. The 3.8l is anemic and prone to head gasket failures in the jk's. Veeb0rg fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Jul 5, 2019 |
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Jul 5, 2019 22:04
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Aside from the dry rot, those tires are ancient - they're Mud Terrain KM, not even the KM2, let alone the current KM3. KM2s came out about a decade ago. It looks like they might have kept making the KM alongside it? At any rate it needs a set of tires immediately and that's a $1k+ expense right there. Veeb0rg posted:3 matching tires? Solid axles dont like that. They're open when not locked, so I wouldn't sweat that so much here. But yeah, I'd run away from that.
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Jul 5, 2019 22:19
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Counterpoint: lowball them.
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Jul 6, 2019 02:21
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On the plus side it has angry eyes.
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Jul 6, 2019 03:57
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I thought Jeep had already gotten an injunction against the Mahindra Roxor? Drove by the local powersports dealer and they had two parked out front today.
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Jul 7, 2019 07:09
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IOwnCalculus posted:I thought Jeep had already gotten an injunction against the Mahindra Roxor? Drove by the local powersports dealer and they had two parked out front today. They probably noticed they're pricing themselves out of the market and ignored them. Has anyone tried their builder? It's fantastic, it's 3d! You can even get this thing with tank treads right from the factory. The windshield is an optional upgrade and you have to pay extra for mirrors.
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Jul 7, 2019 09:04
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Oh good, Moxor has a Ted Nugent special edition so you can poo poo yourself on the trails.
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Jul 7, 2019 13:06
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tuna posted:They probably noticed they're pricing themselves out of the market and ignored them. Yeah, they're neat as gently caress, but I could probably diesel swap my TJ and still be into it for thousands less than buying a Roxor.
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Jul 7, 2019 15:01
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IOwnCalculus posted:I thought Jeep had already gotten an injunction against the Mahindra Roxor? Drove by the local powersports dealer and they had two parked out front today. I saw those in Clovis a few weeks back and got all excited because I thought they were regular road-legal Mahindra jeeps. 
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Jul 7, 2019 16:19
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Big Taint posted:Counterpoint: lowball them. Pretty much this. I left telling them to call me if they drop the price. tuna posted:On the plus side it has angry eyes. In Cincinnati 75% of JKs for sale have the angry bird grills. At least these rip off quickly.
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Jul 8, 2019 00:42
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So, I've kinda hosed myself. Trying to replace the shift tower on a 2000 nv3550 to fix the torn boot and the threads stripped out of the plugs that release the lever from the tower. It doesn't look like there's much room to fix the threads by tapping to a larger size and from the information I can find on the internet, goobering those plugs up basically makes the lever useless. Is that right?
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Jul 10, 2019 14:51
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Can you post a photo? You're talking about separating the stalk from the base right? Would a helicoil work or do those take more space than tapping? Maybe it's time to buy a b&m shifter 😄
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Jul 10, 2019 14:55
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Time to fill holes with welder and drill/tap?
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Jul 10, 2019 15:06
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Photos will have to wait until I get back home from work. Yes, I'm trying to separate the stalk from the base. The assembly is already out of the Jeep. Edit: ugh I'm not installing a short throw shifter, that huge throw is part of the "old truck" charm EightBit fucked around with this message at 19:04 on Jul 10, 2019 |
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Jul 10, 2019 15:38
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My TJ is now misfiring with a p0301 code and nasty sounding pops from the exhaust  Going to take it to the mechanic to figure out because I don't have time to work on it at the moment. Hopefully its something simple 
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Jul 10, 2019 18:08
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mashed_penguin posted:My TJ is now misfiring with a p0301 code and nasty sounding pops from the exhaust Shameful self quoting. Ended up replacing the plugs wires rotor and cap and its running great now. Should have been not lazy and just done that myself. The shop shamed me to fix my oil pressure sending unit with has been locked in high for a couple of months. As far as I can tell though the sender doesn't do anything other than drive the gauge on the dash and a warning light if its reading low. Still I ordered that and did the swap which took a whole 10 mins if that. So now I have a working oil gauge and a smooth running engine 
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Jul 15, 2019 16:43
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Sad to say my XJ stranded me in a very inconvenient location this weekend--about 100 miles in to a 150 mile long road with zero cell service. Luckily I had some friends about 20 miles up the road at a trailhead and was able to hitch a ride and get to them, then get to a town and use a AAA card to get a massive tow back home. Very likely it's the alternator that died as it was running great but the last 10 minutes I noticed the radio starting to die and the light of the odometer digits start to gradually fade. It was losing power and starting to misfire at the very end so I'm guessing the battery voltage was so low the ECU was starting to die or the spark plugs weren't firing. I had noticed in the last week the battery gauge would sometimes drop down to 9v (the minimum) and the check gauges light would come on but I just assumed that was the janky dashboard connector acting up.
mod sassinator fucked around with this message at 17:19 on Jul 15, 2019 |
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Jul 15, 2019 17:16
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I always say to myself in those times, "so you wanna daily a 29 year old piece of poo poo huh?"
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Jul 15, 2019 17:31
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always be closing posted:I always say to myself in those times, "so you wanna daily a 29 year old piece of poo poo huh?" The answer to this question is yes  I do need to start thinking about maybe a JK or a JL though as the kids are getting bigger and it would be nice to go on trips with an actual trunk.
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Jul 15, 2019 17:33
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mashed_penguin posted:The answer to this question is yes Sorry to inform you, but...
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Jul 16, 2019 20:30
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Ok I'll change actual to more than a tj 
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Jul 16, 2019 20:44
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mashed_penguin posted:Ok I'll change actual to more than a tj I'm pretty sure my Miata had more room for cargo than my TJ.
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Jul 16, 2019 21:54
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The correct choice is an LJ.
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Jul 16, 2019 22:58
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So I'll be changing my alternator and am wondering, are there any little upgrades I should consider while getting in there? Does anyone sell a precut and crimped set of heavier duty power and ground cables? I don't have any high power accessories (yet) but figure it would be smart to upgrade now while it's all out.
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Jul 17, 2019 18:34
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If you change the battery terminals to the kind with a post it makes it super easy to use the presized parts store cables
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Jul 17, 2019 20:41
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There is a guy who sells them. I can't think of who it is though, brb will Google. E- I think this is what I'd seen before: https://www.ksuspensionfab.com/store/p77/XJ%2FMJ_Ultimate_Power__%2F-_Cable_Upgrade.html
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Jul 17, 2019 22:15
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I know I've seen this guy mentioned before, with an added bonus of diagrams with lengths if you want to just roll your own.
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Jul 17, 2019 22:30
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Not counting adapters and driveshafts, how much modification is required to fit a 4L80 in a TJ? Novak only wants to tell me about adapters for the t-case and Im trying to budget out the swap with all other body mods I might need
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Jul 29, 2019 16:47
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At a basic level, you need the transmission to link up to the engine (bellhousing), the body (transmission mounts), the transfer case (Novak adapter, probably), the driveshaft, and the wiring. You'll also need to consider physical size (I.e., if it's much larger than the extant transmission, you'll need to widen the tunnel or something like that), and cooling would be wise to consider (do you already have a tranny cooler, would you add one?). If I recall correctly, you have a 350, so I'm going to guess part of why you're looking at this is that the bellhousing isn't an issue (I.e., 4L80 links up to the engine, right?), you know about the transfer case, the only other things are the transmission mounts (which are usually something like a bar with two bolts in the middle that link to the transmission, and four on the ends to link to the body - I.e., not difficult to custom build) and the wiring (is it electronically controlled? I seem to remember GM trans have an E on the end if they are, so possibly nbd). I believe the TJ has the speedo on the transfer case (in fact, I think it pretty much has to) so that wiring should be unaffected. In short, I doubt it would require much modification to put it in your TJ, because you already have the engine.
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Jul 29, 2019 17:51
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Swapped my alternator out and all is well with my XJ again. This is a great replacement part if anyone is ever looking for one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KY0B4AQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It's brand new and cheaper than anything at NAPA or local stores, and runs perfectly without any noise or issue. Also in case anyone never realized it the battery gauge on the cluster is actually measuring the output of the alternator and not the voltage of the battery or car's power system. If you ever get a 'check gauges' red warning light and see the battery gauge flatlining, it's the alternator that's dead or dying. You've got about 20-60 minutes to get the car somewhere where it can be easily towed or the part changed--hopefully not 100 miles in to a 150 mile road with no cell service!
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Jul 29, 2019 19:47
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Krakkles posted:At a basic level, you need the transmission to link up to the engine (bellhousing), the body (transmission mounts), the transfer case (Novak adapter, probably), the driveshaft, and the wiring. You'll also need to consider physical size (I.e., if it's much larger than the extant transmission, you'll need to widen the tunnel or something like that), and cooling would be wise to consider (do you already have a tranny cooler, would you add one?). Yeah, mounting the 4L80E to the engine is easy, just need to swap the flywheel for a flexplate. TJs don't have transmission mounts, the only mount they have behind the engine is on the transfer case itself. The 4L80E is a drat large transmission, so unless the TJ transmission tunnel is way more roomy than I think it is, you might need to do some hammering to clear it. It's also almost certainly quite a bit longer than the AX15, but how much longer overall is going to depend on Novak's adapter to bolt your NP231 to it. I would expect to replace both driveshafts though. The 4L80E is indeed electronically controlled. There are plenty of standalone controllers that can run it.
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Jul 29, 2019 21:08
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yeah, mounting the 4L80E to the engine is easy, just need to swap the flywheel for a flexplate. TJs don't have transmission mounts, the only mount they have behind the engine is on the transfer case itself. That rear drive shaft must be hilariously short given that the stock one is already very short. Does this swap usually go along with a frame stretch (my 30 seconds of googling it didnt produce any pictures).
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Jul 29, 2019 22:08
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Novak's page for the 4L80E Jeep transfer case adapter only warns away from stuffing it in super-short Jeeps like the CJ5, so it must be doable in a TJ. But yeah I'd want a SYE (preferably the shorter version) if at all possible.
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Jul 29, 2019 22:29
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