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Thom P. Tiers posted:What's the reason for the handles and how often would you be using them? Currently I'm taking my desktop to the basement (cool temp + wide playing area) for VR from the third floor where PC my usually is. Thanks for the suggestion, that Cooler Master doesn't look half bad. But after using a fairly utilitarian/ugly no-name case from 9-10 years ago I want something a little more visually appealing than 90% of cases out there now. I will do some more searching and look at my options. Like I mentioned earlier I think if I got two heavy duty leather straps I could use that, or it may just be time to move the PC permanently to the basement ![]() Does anyone ITT have a lianli pc-o11? How do you think the chassis would fare with some leather straps? If I got this route I may go with copper accents inside/around the case to make the leather look like it's integrated into the design aesthetic as opposed to "guy uses belts as PC handles" forest spirit fucked around with this message at 12:32 on Jul 20, 2019 |
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# ? Jun 15, 2024 12:58 |
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VelociBacon posted:I manually unpacked Diablo 2 on my workstation drive at my hospital job so for now I don't need anything but I will let you know. It's when he's playing games...not getting mad at me, he's an awesome kid that will be done with his first semester of college when he graduates high school with a 4.8 GPA. You sound annoying, I'm glad I don't know you personally. Thanks for the parenting lesson....how many kids do you have? And thanks for the help on my question.....
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VelociBacon posted:Also sorry but that kid sounds annoying tell him to stop yelling gently caress to himself it's obnoxious/classless. Also I think he could have googled a lot of this stuff himself as a 17 year old instead of it sounds like arbitrarily getting mad at you for helping. loving lol, have you ever met a teenager before?
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I know not everyone gets the same childhood but if I ever yelled gently caress with my dad or even my mom in earshot they'd have been super mad and I would have been grounded, granted I didn't live at home for university or whatever. Sorry for making GBS threads on God's perfect boy and making you upset mister goon!
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Lightningproof posted:Installing a Wraith Prism on a Ryzen CPU. Am I loving up with the retention bracket or is it really this much of a bitch to install? The side with the lever (that is in the 'unlock' position) hooks over easy, but the lever-less side absolutely refuses to clip on even when I apply what feels like a dangerous amount of strength. Have I messed up installing it somehow or is it really just a matter of brute force? Ung. I REALLY hate having to use brute force on such delicate components. This is what installing a 2500k sounds like: (turn volume up) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PyLGUzryNQE
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Beaucoup Cuckoo posted:Nah, I couldn't give a gently caress about RGB. https://www.walmart.com/nco/LIAN-LI...SxoCcAEQAvD_BwE Great Lian li case here on sale. I just built in it last night. Ya you get the rgb steamers for free but you kind of have to take them to get the case at that price.. I personally didn't use them in my build because I don't like rgb at all either. https://i.imgur.com/yN0NRqM.jpg That's what it looks like. Zotix fucked around with this message at 17:20 on Jul 20, 2019 |
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Anyone have a thermaltake P3? I'm thinking about getting one for my next build. My computers stay up on a stand, so no worries about protecting it from the floor.
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So I've been lurking this topic for a little while, and I should probably do some(see: a lot more) research, but I'm looking to build baby's first PC ever, and have kind of thrown this list together after seeing these parts talked about pretty frequently. What country are you in? USA What are you using the system for? Gaming, web surfing, media streaming(as a consumer), some light audio/video creating/editing, light programming. What's your budget? I'd say $1500, with cheaper being better? I also need a kb/m to go along with it, but didn't know if mechanical was going to be super important, or even the beginnings of looking up mice.. I'm also going to be getting a new CC to get a slight cash back bonus, which could factor in if necessary. If you’re doing professional work, what software do you need to use? Excel, maybe some r, imagej(image analysis), remoting in to work(which probably has nothing to do with my home PC's power, more on the work end side of things, right?) If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? Uh, I'm thinking like 1080p/60fps? I'm not looking to play AAA games immediately when they come out, I haven't PC gamed in a veeeeeery long time so I probably have a heft backlog of games to slowly work my way through. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($149.89 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: MSI - B450-A PRO ATX AM4 Motherboard ($93.70 @ OutletPC) Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($77.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Inland - Premium 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($104.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 1660 Ti 6 GB TUF OC Video Card ($249.99 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design - Define C ATX Mid Tower Case ($75.99 @ Newegg Business) Power Supply: SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($76.98 @ Newegg) Monitor: Dell - D2719HGF 27.0" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor ($179.99 @ Amazon) OS: WIndows 10 from BrownThunder ($25) Total: $1034.52 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-07-20 13:06 EDT-0400 So... rip this apart! It's probably terrible, haha. I have a Micro Center very close to me whose deals I need to scope out, so I may be able to shave a few pennies off there. But yeah, thoughts? Also, if there is an easy BIOS flashing video out there(I've watched the tech report's how to build a PC but other than that this is brand new to me) that would be much appreciated. I also have an older SSD I may pull out of my current craptop to use, although I forget the specs. I'll have to check on that later. But any and all advice is appreciated, thanks in advance!
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Hey I got a new case that has four USB 3.0 but my Mobo Maximus X Hero only has one USB 3.0 slot. What's the solution to this? I'd like to be able to use all four USB 3.0s.
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Connect the front panel header to the motherboard. There should be a series of cables that run from the front panel and connect to the motherboard. One should provide power for the USB ports.
Zotix fucked around with this message at 21:13 on Jul 20, 2019 |
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Zotix posted:Connect the front panel header to the motherboard. There should be a series of cables that run from the front panel and connect to the motherboard. One should provide power for the USB ports. I'd guess you could use an adapter for the USB 3.1 Gen 2 port on the motherboard. Llamadeus fucked around with this message at 21:19 on Jul 20, 2019 |
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OJ posted this info some pages back that I was looking at about OCing Ryzen 3000: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3774409&pagenumber=728&perpage=40#post496689448 Just wondering if this is still the right way for my 3600 after seeing GN's video on PBO: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B7NzNi1xX_4 tl;dw via Reddit Precision Boost (PB) - AMD's boost algorithm, decides core clocks based on power (voltage¤t) and temperature. Can only boost to max stock clocks. Precision Boost Overdrive (PBO) - Increases the power that can be provided to the CPU by the VRMs, doesn't change clocks. AutoOC - Increases the value of the max clock by 200Mhz. DOES NOT mean the CPU WILL now boost to max clock+200Mhz, just that it CAN if Precision Boost (PB) decides there's enough power and thermal headroom to do so. PBO and AutoOC don't do much right now because throwing more power at the CPU is useless if the CPU doesn't have the thermal headroom to clock higher. IF you have an LN2 setup, then go right on ahead, the CPU clocks scale linearly all the way to -56C.
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Glenn Quebec posted:Hey I got a new case that has four USB 3.0 but my Mobo Maximus X Hero only has one USB 3.0 slot. What's the solution to this? I'd like to be able to use all four USB 3.0s. You have one 20-pin 3.1 (Gen 1) header that will connect to two of the 3.0 ports. You also have a 3.1 Gen 2 header, but those only support a single port so even if you picked up a Gen 2 -> Gen1 adapter cable only one of the remaining two ports would work. If you want all four, your best bet is to get a USB 3.0 PCIe card with 20-pin header to use for the last two ports.
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Zotix posted:https://www.walmart.com/nco/LIAN-LI...SxoCcAEQAvD_BwE I’m either going for this or the white Meshify C. Any strong reason to go for this, instead of that?
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Johnny Truant posted:So I've been lurking this topic for a little while, and I should probably do some(see: a lot more) research, but I'm looking to build baby's first PC ever, and have kind of thrown this list together after seeing these parts talked about pretty frequently. Looks great! You can actually get 3600MHz RAM for the same price. It's very slightly higher latency but higher bandwidth at standard timings - from customer reviews it sounds like it works with 2nd-gen Ryzen and you might be able to tighten the CAS latency to 18 cycles. Not sure if those are available at Microcenter, but they'll price match if they are! B450 motherboards will work with 2nd-gen Ryzen CPUs out of the box - that's what they're designed for! If you end up getting a 3rd-gen Ryzen and buy from Microcenter, I've heard that they'll flash your bios for you if necessary (but I'd check first!) The B450-A Pro is a good choice, but you might want to consider spending a little extra on a X570-A Pro or a B450 Pro Carbon AC. They both have two M.2 slots instead of one, upgraded onboard audio, some additional USB ports, and a small VRM upgrade (which really only matter for 3900X+ level-CPUs). The B450 Pro Carbon also has built-in Wifi/bluetooth, and the X570 has more supported PCIe lanes and PCIe 4.0 support (which isn't super important for anything right now). You should be able to save an additional $30 at Microcenter if you buy the CPU and motherboard at the same time ($50 if you get a 3rd-gen Ryzen like the 3600). If you have $1500 available, I'd also consider moving up to an 1440p/144hz IPS and a 2060 Super / 2070. The Nixeus Edg 27 is a great value at $400, but you could ask for other options in the Monitor Thread. For 1440p the MSi 2070 Gaming X for $420 is a great value. An AMD 5700 XT would be a 10-15% performance boost for the same price, but loses raytracing and I'd wait for non-blower partner cards because the cooling on current cards leaves a lot to be desired! Stickman fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Jul 21, 2019 |
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poisonpill posted:I’m either going for this or the white Meshify C. Any strong reason to go for this, instead of that? It's mostly just a matter of aesthetics. The Meshify C is a great case with good airflow that's easy to build in. The Lian Li is a great case, too, but it's designed around AIO or water cooling - you can use air coolers, but it doesn't have the clearance for tall ones like the D15 or Dark Rock Pro 4, so you'd need to stick with something like the Scythe Mugen 5 Rev.B. The Lian Li also doesn't come with any stock fans, so if you're not using radiators you'll need to buy three+ intake/exhaust fans. But once it's all up and running looks very nice!
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Should CPU-Z be saying my DRAM Frequency is 1600MHz? The BIOS shows it at 3200 after I enabled XMP. This is at idle or at the CPU-Z stress test. Ryzen 3600 with CL16 3200 RAM using Ryzen Balanced in Windows.![]() KingKapalone fucked around with this message at 22:43 on Jul 20, 2019 |
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poisonpill posted:I’m either going for this or the white Meshify C. Any strong reason to go for this, instead of that? I have this case. It’s easy to build in, but not great in terms of airflow. The front panel is tempered glass so you can’t do front->back airflow, only bottom->top. Tons of space for radiators if that’s your things though.
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KingKapalone posted:Should CPU-Z be saying my DRAM Frequency is 1600MHz? The BIOS shows it at 3200 after I enabled XMP. This is at idle or at the CPU-Z stress test. Ryzen 3600 with CL16 3200 RAM using Ryzen Balanced in Windows. Yes. RAM does two operations per clock cycle (Double Data Rate) so 1600MHz = 3200MT.
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Looking to upgrade my PC for (mostly) gaming, random workstation work every once in a while for fun (VMs, Ableton or Photoshop, etc.). Probably overkill but whatever, I'm happy enough buying this now unless there's something big I'm overlooking. Already have a GTX 1060 6GB that I'll be re-using, along with an SSD and spinning discs, and monitors etc. What country are you in? Canada What are you using the system for? Gaming, web surfing, media streaming(as a consumer), some light audio/video creating/editing, light programming. What's your budget? Max out at a grand (CDN $) for these parts If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? Mostly 1440p, also have a 4k TV that would be fun to use at 1080p or 4k. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($258.25 @ shopRBC) Motherboard: Gigabyte - X570 GAMING X ATX AM4 Motherboard ($224.99 @ Newegg Canada) Memory: G.Skill - Sniper X 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($106.99 @ Canada Computers) Case: Fractal Design - Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($114.99 @ Newegg Canada) Power Supply: Corsair - RMx (2018) 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($109.99 @ Newegg Canada) Total: $815.21 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-07-20 18:12 EDT-0400
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WhiskeyJuvenile posted:Is there a reason to do 2x16 over 4x8? Cheaper? Fewer parts to fail?
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WhiskeyJuvenile posted:2x16 vs 4x8 AFAIK quad channel will be marginally faster but yeah slightly more chance to fail I suppose (negligible). If you're only using 2 slots you can always buy more RAM to expand to 4x16 down the line (unlikely and not really advised). I'd do 2x16 so when you go to resell it in a few years you can get rid of it more readily.
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Stickman posted:You have one 20-pin 3.1 (Gen 1) header that will connect to two of the 3.0 ports. You also have a 3.1 Gen 2 header, but those only support a single port so even if you picked up a Gen 2 -> Gen1 adapter cable only one of the remaining two ports would work. If you want all four, your best bet is to get a USB 3.0 PCIe card with 20-pin header to use for the last two ports. Hmm, thanks. I'll mull on this.
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piratepilates posted:Looking to upgrade my PC for (mostly) gaming, random workstation work every once in a while for fun (VMs, Ableton or Photoshop, etc.). Probably overkill but whatever, I'm happy enough buying this now unless there's something big I'm overlooking. Looks like it should be good for what you want it to do! I'm not sure what you're moving up from, but you probably won't see all that much of a difference in gaming without also upgrading your GPU. If you want a cheaper X570 board, I'd go with the MSi X570-A Pro over the Gaming X. The Gaming X is weirdly lacking in a few areas - it has bottom-tier onboard audio, zero USB 3.1 Gen 2 ports, and only 6 rear USB ports. The A Pro has top-tier audio and 8 rear USB ports, including a type-A and a type-C Gen 2 port.
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Quad Channel (4 sticks) does nothing if you have only 2 memory controllers on the CPU (Any non HEDT processor). Without four memory controllers, it increases memory latency by a bit, and can make the controllers more picky about speeds and timings. You can have a quad stick set where any 2 sticks will work great, but when you put 4 in, you will not be able to run the memory at advertised speeds because the increased latency will cause issues with timing stability.
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Stickman posted:Looks like it should be good for what you want it to do! I'm not sure what you're moving up from, but you probably won't see all that much of a difference in gaming without also upgrading your GPU. Coming from: Power supply: Rosewill CAPSTONE-450 450W RT (6 years ago) Motherboard: MSI | B85M-P33 B85 1150 RT (6 years ago) CPU: Intel i5-4570 3.2 GHz (6 years ago) RAM: CRUCIAL BLS8G3D1609ES2LX0 (6 years ago) Not too worried about the GPU being a bottleneck yet, I think my motherboard is dying, and if it isn't -- its been 6 years and something on this computer will probably go soon. I'm fine with buying a new foundation for it and upgrading the GPU when I start getting bothered by the performance. I'll get that other MSI over the Gaming X, I don't really care about the lights or gaming badge or what not.
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Stickman posted:Looks great! Dope, thanks for the tips! Gonna update the list and poke around my Micro Center. I just kind of saw that monitor right up at the top and was like uhh this looks cool? I'll see about the pricing and post an updated list for final review before pulling the trigger. ![]() The only thing I'm worried about is due to the size of my partner and my apartment, I have a very small space to actually have the monitor and kb/m. I'm hoping our wall will allow for me to have a swivel wall-monitor mount, which will be great. We'll have to see ![]()
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uwimage posted:It's when he's playing games...not getting mad at me, he's an awesome kid that will be done with his first semester of college when he graduates high school with a 4.8 GPA. this is not the way to respond to a reasonably polite comment after the thread has just helped you out
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Johnny Truant posted:Dope, thanks for the tips! Gonna update the list and poke around my Micro Center. I just kind of saw that monitor right up at the top and was like uhh this looks cool? I'll see about the pricing and post an updated list for final review before pulling the trigger. While you're at Microcenter definitely take a look at monitors and see if you like the feel of 27" 1440p IPS if they have some on the floor. It isn't essential or anything but the larger screen space + higher resolution + IPS color depth is very nice. The extra screen space is nice for sprawling productivity apps, too! piratepilates posted:Coming from: A dying motherboard is definitely a good time for an upgrade ![]()
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Does anyone have any experience with this? https://www.samsung.com/us/computing/monitors/curved/43-cj890-super-ultra-wide-curved-monitor-lc43j890dknxza/ I've got two 1920x1200 monitors that I use for work and it's starting to piss me off with regards to finding a decent stand for the two of them - desk clamps gently caress up my ikea desk, I can't figure out a good wall mount, and I'm trying to clear up my desk - and I figured just getting a single monitor would make life easier
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Just wanted to throw in a trip report and possibly helpful advice for anyone doing a similar build, especially with a Meshify C and/or Dark Rock Pro 4 cooler. I'm bolding names just in case anyone is skimming the topic for info on specific parts.This was my build: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: Intel - Core i7-9700K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor CPU Cooler: be quiet! - Dark Rock Pro 4 50.5 CFM CPU Cooler Motherboard: Gigabyte - Z390 AORUS PRO WIFI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard Memory: Crucial - Ballistix Elite 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory Case: Fractal Design - Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply: SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply First things first, the Meshify C is a really nice case but can get a little cramped with a large CPU cooler. The cable management systems available in the case are really nice, so you can route nearly everything on the back side of the case. I got the version without a window, but for once I actually have an interior that would look nice with the window open. One huge tip I wish I knew beforehand is that when you remove the SSD mounting plate behind the motherboard, you'll probably have full access to everything you'd need to mount a large fan like the Dark Rock, so you could install or switch to a new cooler without removing the board from the case which is nice. If you do mount the cooler first and have a fully modular PSU I would also pay close attention to where your fan headers and ATX_12V connectors are on the motherboard and potentially connect those prior to placing the motherboard in the case. I had a ton of difficulty getting the ATX_12V cable connected once the motherboard and cooler were fully installed as there was very little clearance between the heatsink and the edge of the case. The Dark Rock Pro 4 was more difficult to install than I remember the old Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO being, and I'm afraid that I may have smudged the heatsink around so much that the thermal paste will need re-applying, but no heat issues so far. It's a super quiet fan though and it comes with a great magnetic tip screwdriver that I ended up using for the rest of the build. I'll need to do a proper test of this. Any suggestions for putting the cooler through the paces? I had a minor issue with the Gigabyte Z390 AORUS PRO WIFI. It would boot to the BIOS but if I attempted to boot with the RAM set to the 3600 XMP profile it would fail to boot. There were multiple BIOS updates released past the version that shipped on my board, the least of which added support for 9th-gen Core processors, so I'm glad it booted at all. I updated the BIOS with the handy ability to just slap the BIOS file on a USB stick and flash it right from the BIOS itself. Once the new BIOS was installed the computer would boot just fine at 3600. While I'm on the topic of ram, that Crucial Ballistix Elite model that I used BARELY fits underneath the Dust Rock 4 Pro. I knew the cooler had 40mm of clearance, and the ram was roughly 40mm with the head spreaders installed, but it was tight. Thank God for Be Quiet!'s helpful website. Double check your RAM measurements! Right now I'm running off of the same old Windows install, and I'm continually amazed at how resilient Windows can be sometimes. It didn't even ask to reboot, it just installed everything in place. I've seen some odd behavior that I'll assume is funky driver related even after multiple reboots so I'll do a clean install soon. Does anyone know if the Windows 10 "Fresh Start" feature that says it re-installs windows while retaining user files works well for swapping the entire system like this? Hopefully this is helpful to anyone looking at some of these parts, let me know if you have any questions. Thanks again to everyone in this thread, I'm not sure how many builds I've built or helped with from advice from here.
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I've got a Sapphire RX580 and I'm experiencing HDMI audio drop outs intermittently. It is connected to a home theater receiver and to my television. The video portion does not drop out at all. Does anyone have any ideas or helpful tips to diagnose the issue or even fix it entirely?
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xgalaxy posted:I've got a Sapphire RX580 and I'm experiencing HDMI audio drop outs intermittently. It is connected to a home theater receiver and to my television. The video portion does not drop out at all. Are you getting audio drop outs on both? Have you tried connecting it to something else? Do you get drop outs if connected to the Mobo (if not Zen)? Do you get drop outs on other forms of audio out? That's a weird problem to be sure, though I'm not up enough on my HDMI spec to know if audio is carried on different pins or summat. Fina posted:Does anyone know if the Windows 10 "Fresh Start" feature that says it re-installs windows while retaining user files works well for swapping the entire system like this? Dunno, but you can never go wrong backing up to another drive and nuking the whole thing.
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Alright, now that the new AMD stuff has shaken out I'm ready to plan out a new build (again). I've seen the benchmarks etc so I have a rough idea, but I just want a little confirmation. If I'm willing to spend ~$400 on a CPU, mostly for gaming but with some productivity workloads (some single-thread heavy, some multi-thread heavy), it seems like it would still make sense to go for intel, yeah? Or would the price premium be more like a 5% gaming gain with a big multithread loss? Gaming will be 1440p 144hz, planning on a 2070 super for the GPU. Workloads are software compiling and some mostly single-threaded graphics work.
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The difference between AMD and Intel at 1440p with a 2070 Super is going to be tiny, even less than 5%. I would go with a 3600 or a 3700X if you want more performance in productivity stuff.
MaxxBot fucked around with this message at 06:38 on Jul 21, 2019 |
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So I am looking to put together a working parts list with the assistance of people here. Purpose of this build: A beefy professional animation rig for my freelance animation work, with gaming on the side. Primary Program Used: Toonboom Harmony Other programs used: Photoshop, Adobe Animate/Flash, Maya CPU target: I need something in I9 9900k territory. I am very interested in the new AMD CPUs - and I am dying to find out how well Harmony performs on them, as there’s not much in the way of benchmarks for the program that I can find compared to other stuff. Ram target: I need 32gb of ram, with room to possibly upgrade to 64gb later. 32gb is the ‘sweet spot’ for 2D artists, but 64 gb is generally what you will see with 3D animators. (I plan on getting way more into Maya later, and also, I think that Harmony might benefit from 64gb for more complex scenes.) I am not sure what ram speed should be my target regarding this. GPU: I’m already using a windforce GTX 1080 that I will roll into the new system, with the intention of replacing it with a 2080/2080ti or something along those lines later. Doing so will probably be a luxury buy for my gaming, but I would like to find out how much my animation work might benefit from the purchase too. Storage: Looking for a strong SSD (1-2 tb at least) that will help my workflow especially when moving big files, and a serial bulk-storage drive or two that also works decently for running games & software off. Case: I am literally looking for what performs the best for giving me great cooling and gives me good creature comfort functionality, such as accessible USB ports for my constant need as an artist to rearrange my workspace & plug in different devices. Regarding aesthetic, I’m not picky - but if there are nice looking cases that don’t sacrifice anything on performance or features, I would favor those. (For example, I had been previously looking at the meshify-C and meshify s2, which is pretty low-key classy with a nice looking front panel.) Pre-existing parts: -144hz 1080p asus display -22HD cintiq (professional drawing display) -GTX 1080 (plan on upgrading from this later, but will suffice in my initial build) I’m not concerned about my displays for now because it really comes down to system performance for the files I will be working on - but I would definitely look into a third display, possibly a 240hz gaming monitor or a 1440p gaming display. Also will be looking into color-accurate displays geared towards professionals as an option too. Special note: Animators (in my case, 2d animators) tend to favor rigs that maximize performance in making sure they get zero lag while working on their animation. Because when you’re ‘in the flow’ of animating you really want to make sure everything is as smooth as possible so that you can concentrate on acting, physics, detail, fixes, getting good drawings, etc. That’s also why I might actually wind up avoiding a 4k display for this build in the future as that would be overkill for the work I do, which I would need to scale back anyway to keep it running smoothly when I’m actually animating. (Most of the animated shows you see on TV these days that are in 4k are actually created using 1080p displays.) Anyway, let me know if there’s any additional info people here might have that would help inform things further.
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sebmojo posted:this is not the way to respond to a reasonably polite comment after the thread has just helped you out What? He was responding to one guy there who was being an rear end in a top hat and telling him he was a lovely parent. He was reasonably nice to everyone else. I don’t think that was worth calling him out for. The “reasonably polite” comment said that he thought his kid was annoying, and came off as classless.
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Why the poo poo are three or four year old intel CPUs still as much as this year’s offerings? Christ that’s just insane. Like a 6700k is still $300. What the poo poo?!
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tehinternet posted:Why the poo poo are three or four year old intel CPUs still as much as this year’s offerings? Christ that’s just insane. Like a 6700k is still $300. What the poo poo?! Because they don't make them anymore and people want to upgrade without getting a new motherboard. This is why buying the highest tier offering on a particular socket isn't a bad idea if you consider resale.
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# ? Jun 15, 2024 12:58 |
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Pretty sure intel doesn't discount old product right?
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