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Unless the L-series distributor is way different than I'm thinking of, you can easily put it in a tooth off, not just 180 out. Edit - yeah it's pretty similar to a SBC distributor. The bottom drive for the oil pump can only go one of two ways, but the oil pump can be rotated relative to the distributor drive gear. So you're at least a tooth off.
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Sep 13, 2019 05:40
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IOwnCalculus posted:Unless the L-series distributor is way different than I'm thinking of, you can easily put it in a tooth off, not just 180 out. Sorry, I don't follow. The distributor drive sits in what looks like a flathead screw from the oil pump. I never pulled the shaft from the oil pump, so I don't see how that could have moved. Tai-Pan fucked around with this message at 06:13 on Sep 13, 2019 |
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Sep 13, 2019 06:10
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Oh gently caress you're right, apparently the L-series is special in that the gear and drive are fixed relative to each other. On a SBC you could just use a screwdriver to tweak the oil pump drive to wherever it needs to be. It's apparently possible to put the pump itself in a tooth off.
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Sep 13, 2019 06:16
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2007 Corvette C6, manual transmission. The tip of the input shaft is worn from a seized pilot bearing (common on the C6), I was dumb and thought "it will be fine", and didn't get it sorted while the torque tube was out of the car. I did change the pilot bearing, though. Car also has a twin disc clutch from the ZR1. I'm getting a "shudder" through the shifter whenever I release the clutch pedal after shifting gear (while driving). Are the two related? Is this a "feature" of the twin disc clutch, or am I eating my powertrain alive by not sorting the wear on the input shaft? If I do need to get the input shaft repaired, what is the best option? Weld it up and turn it back to size on a lathe, or turn it on a lathe and sleeve it? This part is discontinued from GM, and $500 for a used one (plus another $300 or so to get it to me!) doesn't appeal.
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Sep 13, 2019 10:18
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I think my 2001 Grand Marquis has an electrical problem. Or it's haunted. Or both. Roughly two months ago, I was driving it home on the highway. It started having a variety of weird problems with the instruments, clock and radio. Specifically, the gauges were fluttering on an off and various displays like the clock and radio were dimmed to the point of not being legible. I also was unable to roll the windows up or down. This got worse when at low speed or stopped and better on acceleration. It finally stalled when I had to be in slow traffic getting off the highway. I ended up coasting into a Pep Boys. They checked the alternator which checked good. They said the battery was bad so they replaced it. Car ran fine since. Yesterday, my wife came home complaining that the driver's window wouldn't roll up. Went out and tried to start it, would not start but started when jumped off. After idling for a couple of minutes I drove it around the neighborhood. It started doing the same thing as it did two months ago and eventually died on the way back. The only other things going on with the car are that the right side window won't roll down (I think I have a bad window regulator, I had to have the back left one replaced a while back) and no A/C (it's got a leak somewhere). The only other work on it has been replacing the spark plugs and some of the coil packs a few months back. Any ideas? I'm going to break out a multimeter and test the battery and alternator this weekend.
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Sep 13, 2019 13:35
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Alternator is intermittently working, or the new battery really poo poo the bed so bad that it's a dead short to the alternator (this is super rare). It's rare for a bad battery to drag the car down so bad that electrical stuff quits working; usually the car is just dead after you shut it off (or has no power within a few minutes). But I'd count on the alternator, and it wouldn't hurt to budget for a new battery just in case.
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Sep 13, 2019 14:18
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Tai-Pan posted:Sorry, I don't follow. The distributor drive sits in what looks like a flathead screw from the oil pump. I never pulled the shaft from the oil pump, so I don't see how that could have moved. Did you (or somebody previously) replace the oil pump? The distributor rotor rotation is not widely adjustable on this engine (beyond a few degrees for timing by moving the cup). It's set by proper alignment of the oil pump key when the oil pump is installed. If this alignment was not strictly observed, you may have to remove the oil pump & reinstall it with the key in the proper position relative to TDC*. You can try the quick & dirty: Set the engine at TDC per the crank pulley marks; wherever the rotor lands, that'll be where the #1 plug wire goes. If you're off by one tooth or so, this may work. Just remember to mark your distributor cap (or dist. cup) for the future. * (in most engines I've worked on, this pump key is a free-spinning base, there to fix the bottom end of the distributor shaft securely, while the distributor is driven by a drive gear closer to the cup. Thus it can be freely rotated to the correct position. On Mopar engines, the distributor shaft drives the oil pump; the bottom 1/3 or so of the shaft is hexagonal, so it can be rotated in its installation to generally match TDC) PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 15:21 on Sep 13, 2019 |
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Sep 13, 2019 14:54
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STR posted:Alternator is intermittently working, or the new battery really poo poo the bed so bad that it's a dead short to the alternator (this is super rare). Yeah, my bet as well. At least on mod motors it's an easy job. When I replaced mine I found a pair of pliers underneath that I dropped years ago.  Was hoping to find thirty 10mm sockets, but not a single one was found.
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Sep 13, 2019 15:15
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C-Bangin' it 
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Tai-Pan posted:Sorry, I don't follow. The distributor drive sits in what looks like a flathead screw from the oil pump. I never pulled the shaft from the oil pump, so I don't see how that could have moved. It looks like there's a shaft that links the drive gear to the oil pump, that is separate from the distributor? Yeah if you never removed it things should be the same. Did you go back and start over? Making sure you have the firing order right, the rotation right, and had it on TDC of the compression stroke?
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Sep 13, 2019 16:44
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STR posted:Alternator is intermittently working, or the new battery really poo poo the bed so bad that it's a dead short to the alternator (this is super rare). Thanks for the input. Yeah, I don't think it's the battery as the car's lights came on when the doors unlocked as I came out to check it. I'll get into it this weekend and report back. Rock Auto has a new ACDelco alternator for around $150.00 and I can get an Interstate Battery at Costco for $99.00.
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Sep 13, 2019 17:01
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Pershing posted:Thanks for the input. Yeah, I don't think it's the battery as the car's lights came on when the doors unlocked as I came out to check it. I'll get into it this weekend and report back. Rock Auto has a new ACDelco alternator for around $150.00 and I can get an Interstate Battery at Costco for $99.00. Here's a rock auto discount code 11686362991001728 Place it in the "How did you hear about us" box. 5% off. Good for everyone BTW.
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Sep 13, 2019 17:28
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Pershing posted:Thanks for the input. Yeah, I don't think it's the battery as the car's lights came on when the doors unlocked as I came out to check it. These tasks require orders of magnitude less out of your battery than starting the car, so it's not conclusive that the battery is any good because it will handle those loads.
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Sep 13, 2019 19:50
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Pomp and Circumcized posted:2007 Corvette C6, manual transmission. I cant answer the shudder part but I can offer advice about the bearing surface. It really depends on how bad the damage is. Do you know the extent? On large, expensive industrial rollers and if its only a few thousandths undersize I would suggest building it up with chrome plate and grinding back to size. That may be a bit expensive but isnt as prone to failure as welding. Welding would be the second best option but I have seen that fail after extensive use. I would avoid the sleeve because your effectively reducing the diameter of the shaft.
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Sep 14, 2019 02:54
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StormDrain posted:Did you go back and start over? Making sure you have the firing order right, the rotation right, and had it on TDC of the compression stroke? StormDrain posted:It looks like there's a shaft that links the drive gear to the oil pump, that is separate from the distributor? Yeah if you never removed it things should be the same. PainterofCrap posted:
EDIT: UPDATE: CHANGE OF STATUS. Stupid loving L24 starts (kinda) after 11 years. It turns out that the issue WAS that the spark plugs were one place off. I guess the P/O must have done this at some point and in my attempts over the years to get it running I must have not noticed. When I was switching the plug wires around, I knocked loose the + from the coil. After fixing that, is (kinda) starts up with starting fluid. Current Problem: I have new carbs from Ztherapy, however, it only seems to be running when I use starting fluid. Not sure what seems to be going on with that. Tai-Pan fucked around with this message at 20:12 on Sep 14, 2019 |
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Sep 14, 2019 17:46
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IOwnCalculus posted:These tasks require orders of magnitude less out of your battery than starting the car, so it's not conclusive that the battery is any good because it will handle those loads. Yes, I was comparing it to the last time it died when nothing electrical worked at all. Alternator tested bad, new one ordered, should be here Wednesday...thanks Colostomy Bag for the code!
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Sep 14, 2019 19:41
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Don't be surprised if the battery fails soon; count your lucky stars if it lasts more than a couple of weeks. Generally a failed alternator takes out the battery (and a bad battery can take out an alternator, but in my own experience, not as frequently), but yours is new enough that you may get lucky.
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Sep 14, 2019 19:57
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Will do, the plan is to drive to Costco once the alternator is in.
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Sep 14, 2019 20:02
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The battery may survive just fine, TBH. I was just suggesting it as a (likely) possibility, not an absolute.
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Sep 14, 2019 20:03
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Fun Fact: Don't wear a metal watch while working on your car. I just arked across my coil with my watch strap WHILE SPRAYING STARTING FLUID. I am lucky that poo poo didn't explode. I now have a chunk missing from my strap. Car still wont start.
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Sep 14, 2019 20:15
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Tai-Pan posted:Fun Fact: Don't wear a metal watch while working on your car. I just arked across my coil with my watch strap WHILE SPRAYING STARTING FLUID. 
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Sep 14, 2019 22:45
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rdb posted:I cant answer the shudder part but I can offer advice about the bearing surface. It's probably worn 1/16" or 1.5mm from the overall diameter. Which I guess is a lot! The issue I see with welding is the material warping, although I guess only the tip would warp, and this would be corrected on the lathe. Is the issue with the sleeve that the shaft would be weakened due to the removed material? Since this is for a pilot bearing, I can't imagine there is much force on it at all.
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Sep 14, 2019 22:50
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Tai-Pan posted:Fun Fact: Don't wear a metal watch while working on your car. I just arked across my coil with my watch strap WHILE SPRAYING STARTING FLUID. Yeah, you might want to buy a lotto ticket.
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Sep 14, 2019 22:59
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Last weekend I was out for a sail and after running the outboard (a '74 6hp Johnson) a few minutes it started to run a little rough. At the time I chalked it up to getting towards the bottom of a 4 month old tank of ethanol containing premix, but when I got home I noticed it had leaked a fair amount of schmoo in the bed of the truck. Said goop looks like emulsified oil, and doesn't smell strongly of gas or moly so I know it's not lower unit oil. I cleaned it up on its stand and it leaked about a silver dollars worth. Then today I moved it again and it leaked some more. This time I was able to see clearly that it is coming from the exhaust port.  It's never done this before. Does this sound like something I should be concerned about?
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Sep 14, 2019 23:19
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Boys who love boys
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Tai-Pan posted:Fun Fact: Don't wear a metal watch while working on your car. I just arked across my coil with my watch strap WHILE SPRAYING STARTING FLUID. Same goes for wedding rings. At least you know you have spark. Curious tho why were you trying to ether start your car with an open coil?
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Sep 14, 2019 23:21
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Pershing posted:I think my 2001 Grand Marquis has an electrical problem. Or it's haunted. Or both. Seams like you had a poo poo battery which made the alternator run at full tilt. (battery has two jobs, starting the engine and then acting as a capacitor) Running at full tilt likely damaged the voltage regulator and specifically fried the diods. So now youve got alternating current into your direct current system. This results in a lot of fun poltergeist poo poo to happen especially in clusters. Depending on what lovely charging system tester pep boys had, (likely very lovely) they might have not detected it and didnt think to put two and two together to go in with a multi meter and do litteraly a ten second test. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dhf6IdBbE3Y TL;DR Needs an alternator Preoptopus fucked around with this message at 23:41 on Sep 14, 2019 |
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Sep 14, 2019 23:33
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Tai-Pan posted:Fun Fact: Don't wear a metal watch while working on your car. I just arked across my coil with my watch strap WHILE SPRAYING STARTING FLUID. Jesus. Never wear metal/metallized/metallic jewelry when you work on stuff. Theres too many ways to injure/maim/kill you in just about any kind of motor vehicle. Gratz on keeping all your bits intact and not on fire.
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Sep 15, 2019 02:02
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Pomp and Circumcized posted:It's probably worn 1/16" or 1.5mm from the overall diameter. Which I guess is a lot! With welding, you may change the hardness of the steel in addition to the warp. Without knowing exactly what alloy the shaft is your going to be doing a bit of guessing. It may seem like a little bit of material, but keep in mind whoever engineered it in the first place was trying to keep weight and cost down. It sucks to do a poo poo ton of work just to tear it apart again. monsterzero posted:Last weekend I was out for a sail and after running the outboard (a '74 6hp Johnson) a few minutes it started to run a little rough. At the time I chalked it up to getting towards the bottom of a 4 month old tank of ethanol containing premix, but when I got home I noticed it had leaked a fair amount of schmoo in the bed of the truck. Said goop looks like emulsified oil, and doesn't smell strongly of gas or moly so I know it's not lower unit oil. Yes, water is getting somewhere it shouldnt.
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Sep 15, 2019 02:17
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Balls. Glad I've been sailing dinghies this summer so I feel good about sailing on/off the dock. I was hoping to get at least another season or two out of this thing. I pulled the plugs and stuck a scope in. Still looked nice and oily, no suspiciously clean pistons like I've seen in blown headgaskets on 4-strokes. I doubt there is a easy fix, but anything worth checking before I B.O.A.T.?
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Sep 15, 2019 04:04
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There's a hole on Honda Fits' front and rear bumper that's covered with a plastic piece. If you pull back the piece it's threaded (at least in the rear). What is this for?
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Sep 15, 2019 15:00
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Tow hook. The hook is probably with your spare tire kit (lug wrench, jack handle, etc). It's meant to be used to pull your car onto a tow truck (or back onto the road if you've slid off) - it gives them a solid spot to attach to that won't bend anything important, and if you're off the road, it's a shitload easier for them to attach to that vs crawling around under the car.
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Sep 15, 2019 15:08
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STR posted:Tow hook. The hook is probably with your spare tire kit (lug wrench, jack handle, etc). It's meant to be used to pull your car onto a tow truck (or back onto the road if you've slid off) - it gives them a solid spot to attach to that won't bend anything important, and if you're off the road, it's a shitload easier for them to attach to that vs crawling around under the car. The front one can double as a licence plate mount for that clean JDM look youve always wanted. 
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Sep 15, 2019 15:24
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Preoptopus posted:Same goes for wedding rings. At least you know you have spark. Curious tho why were you trying to ether start your car with an open coil? I should have said resistor on the coil. MrYenko posted:Jesus. Never wear metal/metallized/metallic jewelry when you work on stuff. Theres too many ways to injure/maim/kill you in just about any kind of motor vehicle. Normally, I am pretty good about that. I was actually just between events and I just wanted to check something. I saw the broken wire, fixed it, and got excited to try starting it up.
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Sep 15, 2019 16:48
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STR posted:Tow hook. The hook is probably with your spare tire kit (lug wrench, jack handle, etc). It's meant to be used to pull your car onto a tow truck (or back onto the road if you've slid off) - it gives them a solid spot to attach to that won't bend anything important, and if you're off the road, it's a shitload easier for them to attach to that vs crawling around under the car. Gotcha. My kit's all aftermarket, but I'll have to check that out. Might be able to score one off a junkyard if I call around I suppose. EDIT: Looks like it's a no on having one of those in the kit. Would having one of these be putting too much faith in the aftermarket world? What about an actual bolt? Or do two truck drivers carry these themselves? I have gone in the ditch before, so there's a non-zero chance of using it as intended. nitsuga fucked around with this message at 23:04 on Sep 15, 2019 |
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Sep 15, 2019 19:49
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nitsuga posted:Gotcha. My kit's all aftermarket, but I'll have to check that out. Might be able to score one off a junkyard if I call around I suppose. Try to find a junkyard one, or two.
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Sep 15, 2019 21:46
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nitsuga posted:I have gone in the ditch before, so there's a non-zero chance of using it as intended. If you can suss out what the thread is, I might be your guy- I've plucked a few of these from junkyards over the years. E: I'll be damned if I can remember what they're from... glyph fucked around with this message at 17:21 on Sep 16, 2019 |
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Sep 16, 2019 02:44
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glyph posted:If you can suss out what the thread is, I might be your guy- I've plucked a few of these from junkyards over the years. M18 x 2.5. Id be all over a freebie.
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Sep 16, 2019 03:41
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nitsuga posted:M18 x 2.5. Id be all over a freebie. I'll take a look tonight. I'll put the metric thread comb on my desk to remind myself.
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Sep 16, 2019 17:22
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I wanted to post this here before I follow up with my mechanic. Does a flywheel that needs replacing on a manual mean that the transmission as well needs replacing? I will be getting my clutch and flywheel replaced. How do I diagnose a bad transmission? Is it easy for my mechanic to see if it needs replacing? zaepg fucked around with this message at 19:58 on Sep 16, 2019 |
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Sep 16, 2019 19:53
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zaepg posted:I wanted to post this here before I follow up with my mechanic. Hell loving no - if your flywheel needs replacing you'll replace the flywheel. How does your transmission shift? Is it smooth? How's the fluid look?
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Sep 16, 2019 20:29
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Thanks! I had a feeling it was my clutch. I was having trouble moving gears for the longest time. I was having trouble accelerating right before it locked up. Will get this figured out.
zaepg fucked around with this message at 20:37 on Sep 16, 2019 |
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Sep 16, 2019 20:33
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