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I think we have an extra apple watch wart lying around somewhere. I'll see if I can grab that for the short term.
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Sep 11, 2019 02:36
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You can also buy "high endurance" SD cards for devices that are going to be writing to disk constantly. I bought one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Endurance-32GB-Micro-Adapter/dp/B07B98GXQT for my cars DashCam and its held up so far after a 18 months use.
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Sep 11, 2019 13:58
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Eletriarnation posted:No guarantees but I've had pretty good results using a 2.4A iPhone charger. I remember reading a teardown and comparison to a cheap knockoff that pointed out numerous high quality build features and Apple doesn't seem like the type to cheap out on that, so I thought it was a safe bet.  I used a 12/15W Apple iPad charger and a cheap UM34 USB multimeter to check voltage droop and current draws of the rPi 4 when it was new. Surprisingly I wasn't able to get past 6W with my setup, even when running the sysbench stress test on all four cores. That was a overclocked rPi4 with an SD card, Gigabit Ethernet, no monitor and no USB devices. Voltage droop with the iPad charger was negligible, just 0.02V or something like that.
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Sep 11, 2019 14:15
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In a brand new installation, is there any reason to go for a Unifi NanoHD over AC Lites? Connection is a 1GB/1GB fiber.
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Sep 12, 2019 14:11
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I'm crossposting from the SMB thread since we basically run our poo poo like a household. Got a newbie VPN question!quote:Ok got a reallll dumb/novice level question here. This is my first time ever fooling with a VPN. And our company has no IT guy/service.
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Sep 12, 2019 17:31
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BonoMan posted:I'm crossposting from the SMB thread since we basically run our poo poo like a household. Got a newbie VPN question! You have to expose the IPSEC ports externally to the WAN, then use the WAN IP as your "Server IP" Couple of questions: How often do they actually need to access this appliance? Are they accessing the network often enough that a standalone VPN might make more sense? What sort of authentication schema are you using?
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Sep 12, 2019 17:43
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CommieGIR posted:You have to expose the IPSEC ports externally to the WAN, then use the WAN IP as your "Server IP" I figured I needed to forward the ports, but unlike every other service I can activate on the QNAP, the L2TP/IPsec option doesn't give the me the ability to define or edit the port. It's weird.  As for authentication it's MS-CHAPv2 and the user/login are what I define on the QNAP. As for how often they access it, it will be fairly often. This QNAP (our file server) will be the only thing they access so I just figured the native app built in to the QNAP would be the best option. edit: Some googling suggests 1701 is the default L2TP port. I'll try that. BonoMan fucked around with this message at 17:58 on Sep 12, 2019 |
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Sep 12, 2019 17:55
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BonoMan posted:I figured I needed to forward the ports, but unlike every other service I can activate on the QNAP, the L2TP/IPsec option doesn't give the me the ability to define or edit the port. It's weird. Yeah, it'll be 1701. Do you guys have an actual AD, or is this just a small office where everyone has their own login locally only?
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Sep 12, 2019 18:03
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CommieGIR posted:Yeah, it'll be 1701. Do you guys have an actual AD, or is this just a small office where everyone has their own login locally only? Small office with local logins (for this particular file server). I've been pestering them for years to please dear god please hire a sys admin before everything goes totally south. We have a pretty robust machine room configured by a sysadmin (as a favor to a colleague who no longer works here). But now it's left to me to just poke around and figure things out (i'm a CG artist, not a sysadmin) when they need something new. Lord. I have an old credential sheet with the logins and a terrible description of what all of the servers do (there's proxmox, freenas, ubiquiti controllers, EdgeSwitches, PFSense and lots of other poo poo). I've poked around enough to determine that it looks like PFSense is handling the port forwarding so I'm going to do it in that. edit: oh hey PFSense has the L2TP preset.
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Sep 12, 2019 18:07
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are there any good alternatives to reflashing one of those T Mobile routers?
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Sep 14, 2019 04:11
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sports posted:are there any good alternatives to reflashing one of those T Mobile routers? Alternatives to the reflashing or the router itself? You could leave the T-Mobile cellspot as a cellspot and it'd be a normal router that also lets t-mobile phones on wifi for wifi calling (presumably on a vlan). There's a lot of decent routers out there if you just want a different one but the thread's best suggestion is still going to be a wireless AP and a router to pair with it. I'm liking Ubiquiti more and more as I realize my WAP from 2014 is still getting firmware updates from them unlike a lot of network hardware that's 5 years old.
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Sep 14, 2019 09:00
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  So in a couple of weeks I will be moving into a new flat, I haven稚 seen it in person yet (long story) but in pictures I saw that it has numbered Ethernet ports in the various rooms. It also has these boxes, I think the top one is a switch, in a cupboard with the normal electricity stuff- although no power sockets. The flat has 1000mb internet access and it would be great to connect the wireless router from the ISP (https://www.fastspeed.dk) to the Ethernet ports both so I could get faster speed than on WiFi but also to add another wireless access point as the router is currently in this cupboard which is affecting range (the plug is trailing awkwardly outside). Can anyone suggest what boxes/cables/settings I would need to make that work - or explain why everything is numbered as I didn稚 think it makes a difference which port is which? I would also like to set up some sort of media/backup storage connected to the router at some point if thats a consideration. Edit: The current router is a Sagem Fast 3890V3 Sri.Theo fucked around with this message at 16:13 on Sep 14, 2019 |
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Sep 14, 2019 16:06
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Sri.Theo posted:
If you want to have all 10 Ethernet ports available for use, you'll need to also get a networking switch to connect the cupboard ports to the router. You'll want to look for a 12/16/24 port gigabit switch, like this one or this other one. If the additional wireless access point you're planning on using supports Power over Ethernet (PoE), you could look for a PoE-capable switch - it'll be more expensive, but you won't have to have the access point near a power outlet if that's a concern. You'll connect all the ports in the cupboard to the switch, then also connect the router to the switch. This will require 11 Ethernet cables - 10 for connecting the Ethernet ports to the switch, and one for connecting the router to the switch. Assuming the router and switch are right next to the 10 ports you can go for short cables, 1m or less. The ports are numbered to identify where each one goes. I assume that each port in each room has a number corresponding to the numbers in the cupboard, right (hopefully)?
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Sep 14, 2019 18:10
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Actuarial Fables posted:]. If the additional wireless access point you're planning on using supports Power over Ethernet (PoE), you could look for a PoE-capable switch If you need 1-2 POE ports you can also buy injectors for much cheaper than a POE switch. Only get a switch if you need many ports of power or are space constrained. They're never "clean" to install.
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Sep 14, 2019 18:15
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Actuarial Fables posted:If you want to have all 10 Ethernet ports available for use, you'll need to also get a networking switch to connect the cupboard ports to the router. You'll want to look for a 12/16/24 port gigabit switch, like this one or this other one. If the additional wireless access point you're planning on using supports Power over Ethernet (PoE), you could look for a PoE-capable switch - it'll be more expensive, but you won't have to have the access point near a power outlet if that's a concern. Yes the numbers do correspond, I just didn稚 know that was how it worked, so thanks for the clarification! I致e looked into Power over Ethernet and it looks like that will be a good way to go. Unfortunately the google WiFi device I was looking at doesn稚 support it so any recommendations for a small Wireless access point would be appreciated- small because it may need to wall mounted. H110Hawk posted:If you need 1-2 POE ports you can also buy injectors for much cheaper than a POE switch. Only get a switch if you need many ports of power or are space constrained. They're never "clean" to install. Thanks, I will likely only need one POE port so I will look into this. Although I知 really wondering what the intentions were when this was originally installed as it痴 all in a narrow cupboard in the corner of the flat. Putting all this stuff in there might be tricky. Sri.Theo fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Sep 14, 2019 |
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Sep 14, 2019 22:46
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Sri.Theo posted:Yes the numbers do correspond, I just didn稚 know that was how it worked, so thanks for the clarification! I致e looked into Power over Ethernet and it looks like that will be a good way to go. Unfortunately the google WiFi device I was looking at doesn稚 support it so any recommendations for a small Wireless access point would be appreciated- small because it may need to wall mounted. This thread often recommends the UniFi line of wireless access points. The UniFi AP AC Lite is small, wall mountable, works well, and comes with a PoE injector so you don't have to buy one (assuming you don't buy bulk).
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Sep 14, 2019 23:12
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The Lite is good but will top out at about 250mbps over WiFi. Getting a Pro or one of the newer Nano HD UniFi access points will give you more speed.
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Sep 14, 2019 23:16
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Sri.Theo posted:Yes the numbers do correspond, I just didn稚 know that was how it worked, so thanks for the clarification! I致e looked into Power over Ethernet and it looks like that will be a good way to go. Unfortunately the google WiFi device I was looking at doesn稚 support it so any recommendations for a small Wireless access point would be appreciated- small because it may need to wall mounted. I snagged 2 of these for my house+garage and am 100% satisfied: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DWW3P6K/ They come with a poe injector if you buy the 1pack. The narrow cupboard is likely fine, from your pictures I see plenty of room. Most of this stuff doesn't need as much space as you're thinking in your head, and they almost all come with screws to mount the bottom to the wall just like the other stuff you see there. I used this switch because it's got less depth: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AX8XHRQ/ than the other one linked. They make the same switch with fewer ports as well if you don't need that many. Measure out your cable lengths and buy those exactly for your cupboard. I use a bunch of 6"/15cm, 30cm, and 45cm cables in my home network. No clutter that way. Try and find your local equivalent of Monoprice: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=13404 . I try to do 15cm=orange, 30cm=red, 45cm=blue, etc. to make them easy to pick out of the bin-o-cables. For longer ones (1-3m) I get them black. Plan it out, buy extras of each length and you will hopefully only spend maybe 20EUR more.
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Sep 14, 2019 23:50
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Thanks that痴 really helpful. I致e checked and there seems to be quite a lot of second hand switches available (from businesses?), is this the type of thing where its fine to buy second hand? Edit: I致e also found this https://www.dba.dk/access-point-wireless/id-1059199856/ Unifi Ap Pro for much cheaper than retail which looks like it will work. Sri.Theo fucked around with this message at 10:02 on Sep 15, 2019 |
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Sep 15, 2019 09:19
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Sri.Theo posted:Edit: I致e also found this https://www.dba.dk/access-point-wireless/id-1059199856/ Unifi Ap Pro for much cheaper than retail which looks like it will work. Make sure that listing is for a UniFi AP AC Pro. There's an older version without the AC in the name and you do not want that.
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Sep 15, 2019 15:30
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Sri.Theo posted:
Couple of points: I believe fastspeed.dk offers a 1000/25 connection, so mind the upload speed. Also, you don't need to wire all 10 rooms/outlets if you don't feel you'll need them. That being said, a 16 port dumb gigabit switch isn't all that expensive and it's nice to just be done with it. BTW, https://www.av-cables.dk/ for good, cheap patch cables in all lengths and colors. Oh yeah, and you're right, it makes zero difference which port in the patch panel (that's what the box on the wall is called) is wired to which port in a dumb switch.
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Sep 16, 2019 07:51
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bolind posted:BTW, https://www.av-cables.dk/ for good, cheap patch cables in all lengths and colors. This is seemingly a great site! This is a great word, coming from English: Netv誡kskabel https://www.av-cables.dk/cat-6-f-utp-graa/ 0.5m for 12 DKK / 1.77 USD.
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Sep 16, 2019 12:26
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Anyone have a recommendation for a cheap unmanaged 8-port gigabit switch? I was surprised to see that the Netgear one (GS308) has awful reviews.
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Sep 16, 2019 19:33
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:Anyone have a recommendation for a cheap unmanaged 8-port gigabit switch? I was surprised to see that the Netgear one (GS308) has awful reviews. If you want a desktop-style (ports on the back) and don't mind the absence of link speed indicators: https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-GREENnet-Switching-Protection-TEG-S82G/dp/B00C2H0YFU/
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Sep 16, 2019 19:47
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We've used dozens of D-Link DGS-1008G and their predecessors without issues at work for cheap desktop switches. I have a few at home, the 5 and 8 port models and no complaints. Really any of them should work find I would think.
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Sep 16, 2019 20:37
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Actuarial Fables posted:Make sure that listing is for a UniFi AP AC Pro. There's an older version without the AC in the name and you do not want that. bolind posted:Couple of points: Thanks both, I値l just suck it up and buy a new UniFi AP although the more I look into it the more complex it gets. And that website is super helpful for cables, so thanks fo sharing. I知 sure I値l run into problems down the line but at least I値l have all the parts!
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Sep 16, 2019 23:26
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:Anyone have a recommendation for a cheap unmanaged 8-port gigabit switch? I was surprised to see that the Netgear one (GS308) has awful reviews. TP-Link 8 Port Gigabit Ethernet Network Switch $20 on Prime
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Sep 16, 2019 23:46
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i need TP-Link for my bunghole
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Sep 17, 2019 01:52
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Sri.Theo posted:Thanks both, I値l just suck it up and buy a new UniFi AP although the more I look into it the more complex it gets. And that website is super helpful for cables, so thanks fo sharing. Its basically the monoprice of Denmark and they usually ship overnight. Just saw an ad for that light speed thing, might be 100 up, which helps considerably.
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Sep 17, 2019 18:40
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I got an amazon refurb'd Archer C5 (AC1200), and initially everything looked good on - on the wired connections. I have thus far been unable to get wireless to work beyond five feet from the router. This appears to be a common issue; I've tried 2.4 and 5 isolated to no avail, and I'm just about to return the thing. My question is: Is this expected from this model? I assume not, but I really don't want to go through the hassle of buying and returning another one if that's the case. All I need is a decent wireless connection in my house and gigabit ports for all the wired connections. Is there a newly recommended better option?
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Sep 17, 2019 19:43
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Shlomo Palestein posted:I got an amazon refurb'd Archer C5 (AC1200), and initially everything looked good on - on the wired connections. I have thus far been unable to get wireless to work beyond five feet from the router. This appears to be a common issue; I've tried 2.4 and 5 isolated to no avail, and I'm just about to return the thing. My question is: Is this expected from this model? I assume not, but I really don't want to go through the hassle of buying and returning another one if that's the case. All I need is a decent wireless connection in my house and gigabit ports for all the wired connections. Is there a newly recommended better option? I don't know anything about those, but you likely just discovered why it was "refurbed." (AKA stuffed back in the box after their bench test showed wifi worked at a range of 0m.) Those antennas aren't hooked up. I bet if you tore off all the plastic you would find out that somewhere there is a trace or wire that simply isn't connected. Return it and get a different one.
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Sep 17, 2019 20:21
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H110Hawk posted:I don't know anything about those, but you likely just discovered why it was "refurbed." (AKA stuffed back in the box after their bench test showed wifi worked at a range of 0m.) Those antennas aren't hooked up. I bet if you tore off all the plastic you would find out that somewhere there is a trace or wire that simply isn't connected. Return it and get a different one. Not a great sign if the replacement is also refurb'd... Maybe I'll rethink "trying to save money."
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Sep 17, 2019 21:29
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Shlomo Palestein posted:Not a great sign if the replacement is also refurb'd... Maybe I'll rethink "trying to save money." Just buy new, but don't put too much thought into the word "refurbed." Small consumer electronics aren't getting anything done other than a power on test at most assuming it doesn't look physically damaged. I remember many years ago a Charter "tech" (aka a subcontractor) came out to replace my dead cable modem. I walked him out to get a new one so he wouldn't get stuck at the auto-locking gate and watched him take mine, toss it into a literal free floating pile in his truck, randomly pull out another one, and take it inside. I asked him about it and he basically told me that's how it's done. Now, this is probably equal parts malice on the part of the sub (drumming up more service calls) and incompetence+malice on the part of Charter (not blacklisting the MAC, knowing less savvy users will eat the service fee and not demand a refund for the few days of outage), and it might not be true for the whole industry, but I think it speaks to the level of care places give lovely consumer electronics. Especially if this thing was "refurbed by amazon" that was definitely a return they had some desk jockey plug in, verify lights, and repack for sale. Assuming they plugged it in at all.
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Sep 17, 2019 21:41
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I bought a wifi extender for the new router I posted about a few months ago and it doesn稚 work. It says it痴 connected to the router and you can connect to the extender network from devices, but there is no internet service at all. Windows troubleshooter says no contact with DNS server. The wifi from the router itself works fine. What could the problem be? Router is RAC2V1K provided by Spectrum, extender is tp-link AC1750
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Sep 19, 2019 01:40
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OK, I'm having a weird issue with a Unifi AC Lite; it only gets a 100mbit link on the ethernet port, where it should be getting gigabit. The cable is a fixed installation made by yours truly, and in order to make a nice install in the ceiling, it's male RJ45 on that end, and female RJ45. Was I correct in just using the "B" layout for the pins on each end? I've made a shorter, identical cable, and that works fine? Anything else I can do before I take down the AP? It's a pain in the arse, due to it being in the ceiling and having all of 10cm of cable sticking out. Googling leads to believe that Ubiquiti has had some issues with this in the past, but I won't point fingers as is could very well be my crimping.
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Sep 19, 2019 17:11
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bolind posted:OK, I'm having a weird issue with a Unifi AC Lite; it only gets a 100mbit link on the ethernet port, where it should be getting gigabit. A vs B versus alphabetical doesn't matter so long as you were consistent on both sides of each physical wire. So if you wired the rj45 jack as B and the other side of that wire as A the you're hosed. This is 99% likely your doing and 1% the device. First order of business is a wire tester or reterminating everything that wasn't machine terminated.
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Sep 19, 2019 17:17
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bolind posted:OK, I'm having a weird issue with a Unifi AC Lite; it only gets a 100mbit link on the ethernet port, where it should be getting gigabit. This just happened to us with a 10GbE install and it was definitely a wire damaged during the in-wall installation. Defaulting to 100mbit is a classic sign of physical damage/problem somewhere.
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Sep 19, 2019 17:38
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H110Hawk posted:A vs B versus alphabetical doesn't matter so long as you were consistent on both sides of each physical wire. So if you wired the rj45 jack as B and the other side of that wire as A the you're hosed. The reason I mentioned it was because I seemed to remember there being a special case for when doing a male-to-female cable, but I can see now that that was wrongly remembered. Both sides are wired as "B", I fully realize that both sides as "A" would give the same result. I don't have a cable tester, and I'd rather not buy one just for this, but I think I can borrow one... Deep in my heart I know I should reterminate, it's just a difficult cable run so I'm procrastinating the obvious. BonoMan posted:This just happened to us with a 10GbE install and it was definitely a wire damaged during the in-wall installation. Defaulting to 100mbit is a classic sign of physical damage/problem somewhere. Yeah, makes me wonder how many of the successful installs we did during the 100mbit days were actualy just successful on the right wire pairs.
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Sep 20, 2019 02:51
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bolind posted:I don't have a cable tester, and I'd rather not buy one just for this, but I think I can borrow one... Hey now, back then it likely synced up at 10/half instead of 100/half! The basic continuity testers are like $20-30 these days. You don't need a TDR.
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Sep 20, 2019 06:29
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I recently had my internet upgraded to 400mbps service, but my AP HD Nano was only running at ~200mbps. A quick google led me to changing a few settings, namely setting DTIM to 3 on both radios from a default value of 1, changing both radios' power from auto to medium on the 2G radio and high on the 5G one, and increasing the channel width on the 5G radio. Couple questions. Why did that work (getting full bandwidth now), and why isn't that default?
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Sep 20, 2019 06:50
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