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Baronjutter
Dec 31, 2007

"Tiny Trains"

Stamping stamping stamping...


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Google Butt
Oct 4, 2005

Xenology is an unnatural mixture of science fiction and formal logic. At its core is a flawed assumption...

that an alien race would be psychologically human.

hello, some of those hyper realistic nature scene diorama tutorials came up in my suggesteds and man they're cool but I can't let myself try because they won't look as cool.

Splode
Jun 18, 2013

put some clothes on you little freak

Google Butt posted:

hello, some of those hyper realistic nature scene diorama tutorials came up in my suggesteds and man they're cool but I can't let myself try because they won't look as cool.

I watched a few of those. I was expecting some clever tricks, but no, the guy is just very talented and mind-bogglingly patient

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something
If you're interest, just get out there and try it. You don't need to make some big Luke Towan-esque scene, start with a tiny scene that would fit on coaster. Practice techniques, work out ideas, try, fail, improve. Maker bigger pieces. Get better.

This stuff isn't insanely hard, there is a method. Find out what you want to show, how to do each component, and then layer your effects one upon another. The AT-ST scene I made a while back turned out pretty good, and that was literally my first attempt at a complex nature scene. And believe me, I'm no artist. I can't draw to save my life, can't paint a picture, but I can go through the mechanical steps in painting models/minis/garage kits, and making bases.

Carth Dookie
Jan 28, 2013

Plasmo does a bunch of small dioramas as well. He's definitely got an artist's eye, but his real trick is just going all in on details.

Immolat1on
Sep 9, 2005
Do y'all have any go to resources for learning about air brushing (including weathering and what not)? I know I could just search youtube but I prefer reading (I'd even love a book that I can reference since I don't have a computer at my kit desk). Just curious if anyone has any succinct favorites.

Puddin
Apr 9, 2004
Leave it to Brak

Immolat1on posted:

Do y'all have any go to resources for learning about air brushing (including weathering and what not)? I know I could just search youtube but I prefer reading (I'd even love a book that I can reference since I don't have a computer at my kit desk). Just curious if anyone has any succinct favorites.

It's Gunpla based but you can transfer it over to any modelling.

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLC1672C46F266F336

E: Sorry you said not youtube, I'll leave it though as he's pretty good at just explaining stuff in an easy to understand way.

Puddin fucked around with this message at 09:25 on Oct 2, 2019

Symetrique
Jan 2, 2013




Immolat1on posted:

Do y'all have any go to resources for learning about air brushing (including weathering and what not)? I know I could just search youtube but I prefer reading (I'd even love a book that I can reference since I don't have a computer at my kit desk). Just curious if anyone has any succinct favorites.

This is a video, but probably the best one out there on airbrush maintenance.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ulWFoG5Inmw

His technique for reinserting the needle at about 5 min in is really useful (just use water if you dont want to test with a solvent like he does).

Kurvi Tasch
Oct 13, 2012

Thats von Derp for you!
Now that took a long time. I got this

for the anniversary of the battle of the Bismarck sea, so about half a year ago.
My hobby store had a special offer for additional stuff, so I went whole hog.
It's the first time I got die-cut masks for painting and those were great. The photo-etch was probably a bit too much.
There were like a hundred little greebles for the cockpit that are ultimately barely visible

In any case, I went with an Australian paint scheme to get some connection to the Bismarck sea


Overall it turned out reasonably well, though you'll find all the tiny spots where I messed up if you look closely enough.

Molentik
Apr 30, 2013

I just found out there is a model building sim out on Steam.

I'm not sure how I feel about it...

Unkempt
May 24, 2003

...perfect spiral, scientists are still figuring it out...

Molentik posted:

I just found out there is a model building sim out on Steam.

I'm not sure how I feel about it...

Well I feel that you ought to post a link because I can't find it.

(I assume it's German?)

Molentik
Apr 30, 2013

Steam store page.

ijyt
Apr 10, 2012

Haha, it’s got Hobbyzone and everything.

Nebakenezzer
Sep 13, 2005

The Mote in God's Eye

Molentik posted:

I just found out there is a model building sim out on Steam.

I'm not sure how I feel about it...

Same, I mean you are already doing something sitting at a desktop

Unkempt
May 24, 2003

...perfect spiral, scientists are still figuring it out...
Wait -

1/71 scale?

NTRabbit
Aug 15, 2012

i wear this armour to protect myself from the histrionics of hysterical women

bitches




Unkempt posted:

Wait -

1/71 scale?

The day Jeff from marketing saved the engineering team after they realised they'd made a mistake in CAD, and all the measurements were 1mm smaller than they should be

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
I'm having a real tough time masking canopies and glass. I watched a few youtube videos using tape or maskol, I've tried both and I can't get clean lines. I'm basically tearing my hair out over here

Carth Dookie
Jan 28, 2013

Phi230 posted:

I'm having a real tough time masking canopies and glass. I watched a few youtube videos using tape or maskol, I've tried both and I can't get clean lines. I'm basically tearing my hair out over here

Have you tried using sticky metal foil? It was recommended to me by another poster in this thread. Personally haven't tried it but supposedly it's better for getting clean cut lines with the scalpel when removing the excess and conforms to the curves of the canopy better than tape. Also: use a new blade when cutting the excess away.

Edit:

Bare metal foil is what I was thinking of, but a quick google search suggests it's hard to remove and leaves residue. Welp.


Pre cut masks maybe?

Carth Dookie fucked around with this message at 06:32 on Oct 8, 2019

Molentik
Apr 30, 2013

Just clean up after with a toothpick

Symetrique
Jan 2, 2013




Carth Dookie posted:

Have you tried using sticky metal foil? It was recommended to me by another poster in this thread. Personally haven't tried it but supposedly it's better for getting clean cut lines with the scalpel when removing the excess and conforms to the curves of the canopy better than tape. Also: use a new blade when cutting the excess away.

Edit:

Bare metal foil is what I was thinking of, but a quick google search suggests it's hard to remove and leaves residue. Welp.


Pre cut masks maybe?

It does leave a little bit of residue, but like Molentik said, you can scrape it away with a toothpick or slightly damp qtip.

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


Phi230 posted:

I'm having a real tough time masking canopies and glass. I watched a few youtube videos using tape or maskol, I've tried both and I can't get clean lines. I'm basically tearing my hair out over here

My windows are not perfect, and gently caress all German airplane windows with 72 panes of glass.

I first apply future to the canopy, let it dry overnight, then I mask it with thin yellow painters tape cut over dozens of attempts, I rub the tape with a toothpick to make sure it's 100% adhered. Then another coat of future to seal the edge of the tape. Then I do my first coat of paint quite light, followed by the rest of the process. It looks better, but it's still a bitch. I did one kit that came with window masks and it helps, but it's not a remedy.

Dr. Phildo
Dec 8, 2003

Except the heaven had come so near,
So seemed to choose my door,The distance would not haunt me so

Soiled Meat

Phi230 posted:

I'm having a real tough time masking canopies and glass. I watched a few youtube videos using tape or maskol, I've tried both and I can't get clean lines. I'm basically tearing my hair out over here

If all else fails, a lot of kits get masking sets made for them by 3rd parties. There is no shame in buying more stuff for the hobby!!

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
I keep seeing like adhesive for foil, do I need that or do I just need the sticky foil itself. I'll try that before going back to tape + maskol. Also is foil tape what I'm looking for or just normal aluminum foil


the hardest part is making sure the tape is the right size and fits into corners perfectly. Unless I'm supposed to use maskol to just seal the gaps. What I've been doing is cutting thin strips just to mask the edges and then filling in the middle with maskol.

I tried straight maskol with no tape, and its like the maskol didn't settle evenly over canopy frame so it took paint off

Symetrique
Jan 2, 2013




Masking fluids really only work if the canopy is crisply molded, even so it wont be perfect.

The product you're looking for is baremetal foil, it should be available at most hobby stores, though amazon also has it. Avoid the bright chrom/ultra chrome or whatever, that one has adhesive issues. Foil tape is probably too thick.

You can make your own adhesive foil with some thin aluminum foil and spray adhesive, but buying baremetal foil is the easiest option.

Molentik
Apr 30, 2013

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9PPYEbwPRU
This video has some good info on the subject.

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
Thanks everyone for the advice, I just have one more question.

I'm using vallejo chipping medium and despite letting it dry overnight, when I go to chip, it really likes to take more than I want and also seems to make the paint seem "fuzzy" or otherwise no longer smooth

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

Phi230 posted:

Thanks everyone for the advice, I just have one more question.

I'm using vallejo chipping medium and despite letting it dry overnight, when I go to chip, it really likes to take more than I want and also seems to make the paint seem "fuzzy" or otherwise no longer smooth

It does that. I really only use that stuff for super hosed up paint, like quarter-assed whitewash applied to a dirty tank by a drunk private with a mop. Not sure if there's a trick I don't know, but in any case you're not alone.

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy

Blue Footed Booby posted:

It does that. I really only use that stuff for super hosed up paint, like quarter-assed whitewash applied to a dirty tank by a drunk private with a mop. Not sure if there's a trick I don't know, but in any case you're not alone.

Super annoying because it basically all-but-ruined my paintjob in some places. I'm not assed to fix it since I've been working on this model for 8 months and its not that bad but I wish there was some alternative

I've heard of hairspray but not sure about it

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug
I actually had very good luck with hairspray. The only time it affects the paint on top is if I don't let th hairspray dry completely before painting.

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy

Ensign Expendable posted:

I actually had very good luck with hairspray. The only time it affects the paint on top is if I don't let th hairspray dry completely before painting.

Do you just do the normal "sweep with a damp brush" technique or do you use a toothpick/steel wool or something? Doogs also recommends hairspray but I saw him talking about steel wool and that kind of seems excessive

Symetrique
Jan 2, 2013




Doogs uses lacquers, which require a different approach than just normal acrylics or alcohol acrylics.

You can still use hairspray but it will take longer to chip if you only use a soft brush, and not something harder.

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug
Moist brush usually does it. In extreme cases I give it a gentle scrape with a toothpick, either if I need scratching effects or if the hairspray refuses to chip at first. Another method to help it move along is a tiny bit of rubbing alcohol.

I do apply scratch proof Vallejo mecha varnish underneath though, just in case.

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy

Ensign Expendable posted:

Moist brush usually does it. In extreme cases I give it a gentle scrape with a toothpick, either if I need scratching effects or if the hairspray refuses to chip at first. Another method to help it move along is a tiny bit of rubbing alcohol.

I do apply scratch proof Vallejo mecha varnish underneath though, just in case.

What kind? I have the gloss mecha varnish, I was told its the same as normal vallejo gloss varnish

Will any hairspray do or is there something I ought to look out for?

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug
Yeah, the gloss one. Although now that I think of it I also tried AK Ultra Matte varnish and the result is more or less the same, so I don't know if there is any extra scratch resistance.

The hairspray I use is Pantene alcohol free Airspray with 2/5 hold. I previously used the store brand 3/5 hold and it turned out fine. I think the key is to have it in an aerosol can to get a nice and even layer.

Amp
Sep 10, 2010

:11tea::bubblewoop::agesilaus::megaman::yoshi::squawk::supaburn::iit::spooky::axe::honked::shroom::smugdog::sg::pkmnwhy::parrot::screamy::tubular::corsair::sanix::yeeclaw::hayter::flip::redflag:
McLaren made a fun scale model-inspired poster for the Japanese Grand Prix this weekend:

Sparq
Feb 10, 2014

If you're using an AC/20, you only need to hit the target once. If the target's still standing, you oughta be somewhere else anyway.

Phi230 posted:

Thanks everyone for the advice, I just have one more question.

I'm using vallejo chipping medium and despite letting it dry overnight, when I go to chip, it really likes to take more than I want and also seems to make the paint seem "fuzzy" or otherwise no longer smooth

The more you wait, the harder it will be to chip off the paint. I usually let the chipping medium be for about two days after painting over it.

ijyt
Apr 10, 2012

I wouldn’t wait more than 30 minutes to an hour personally.

Molentik
Apr 30, 2013

You can also just drybrush the chipping solution where you want your chips.

Baronjutter
Dec 31, 2007

"Tiny Trains"

I'm up late scratch building a bridge out of cardboard.



5 pieces form 1 beam


5 beams form 1 bridge!


It'll go like so. Will give it a nice airbrushing and weathering before gluing it.

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Enos Shenk
Nov 3, 2011


Oh that bridge is hot. It needs a nice cruddy anti-corrosion green paint and some proper bum trash underneath though.

I LOVE SHITKITS.

I found this thing at Ollie's for $15. Had to have it.







The molded detail isn't too horrible, but oh my god that mold flashing. The alignment issues are real as well, parts offset by a couple mm once you slap them together, etc.

I'm thinking it will make a nice rusted-out Mad Max type warwagon once I add on a bunch of extra tank parts. I might even drop in to the hobby shop tommorow for their cheapest craptank kit to put a big gun on this.

Tank cannon semi tractor technical?

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