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Nice tool finder wizard, all you need to know is the manufacturer's categories and subcategories and you can find the right drill for your situation!
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Nov 29, 2019 18:52
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Speaking of which, does this look like a steal, or discounted for a reason? https://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-engineer-series-m-360-bench-pillar-drill-102425 I guess being bench-top it's going to be limited to more machine tooling than the sort of woodworking I'd be using it for. Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 19:05 on Nov 29, 2019 |
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Nov 29, 2019 19:03
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HD sale Rigid 16g dust vac for $40. I don't need another shop vac but that is a killer deal. https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-16-Gal-5-0-Peak-HP-Wet-Dry-Vac-WD1641/304795144
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Nov 29, 2019 20:10
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JEEVES420 posted:HD sale Rigid 16g dust vac for $40. I don't need another shop vac but that is a killer deal. That's a good deal and I ought to get one and freecycle my 25 year old one. On a different note, does anyone recall what these are called or where/if they are sold anymore? I picked these up ~ 20 years ago. They're wonderful flippable countersink/driver bits, and no one at Lowes or HD know wtf I'm asking about. I can't recall the guy's name that ostensibly patented them. 
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Nov 29, 2019 20:43
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Jaded Burnout posted:Speaking of which, does this look like a steal, or discounted for a reason? Looks like a steal, if the short travel isn't a problem, also looks sold out.
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Nov 29, 2019 21:01
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Looks like one of these things? Or hex bit extension holders or whatever they're called.JEEVES420 posted:HD sale Rigid 16g dust vac for $40. I don't need another shop vac but that is a killer deal. Dang, I should probably get on this. I managed to kill the motor on my old shop vac, so I've been getting by with a dust extractor and a dinky little handheld dust buster.
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Nov 29, 2019 21:04
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cakesmith handyman posted:Looks like a steal, if the short travel isn't a problem, also looks sold out. Yeah apparently "last few" means "sold out"  Edit: Apparently if I drive 2 hours to High Wycombe I can still get one, but 60mm is just too little travel for woodworking. Fine for metals. Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 21:19 on Nov 29, 2019 |
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Nov 29, 2019 21:14
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taqueso posted:Anyone have a deal on a 1/2" impact driver? Corded or cordless If you want a lower power version, the subcompact Makita impact wrench is on sale with an impact driver and battery.
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Nov 29, 2019 21:26
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JEEVES420 posted:HD sale Rigid 16g dust vac for $40. I don't need another shop vac but that is a killer deal. Just be aware that the hose on that unit is smaller than a typical shopvac hose. Fine for vacuuming the car and such, but for construction cleanup, you want the standard 2.5 inch diameter hose. The little one clogs to easy with chunky debris.
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Nov 29, 2019 22:18
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Mr. Mambold posted:On a different note, does anyone recall what these are called or where/if they are sold anymore? I picked these up ~ 20 years ago. They're wonderful flippable countersink/driver bits, and no one at Lowes or HD know wtf I'm asking about. I can't recall the guy's name that ostensibly patented them. Closest match I could find was this set, but a dissimilar yet functional equivalent would be a Zack Rabbit set.
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Nov 30, 2019 09:56
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asdf32 posted:Or a hackzall which is more all-around useful than a grinder (yard trimming etc). That said, I watched a few tear down videos comparing the various HF options, as far things like epoxying the windings, using stiff brush holders, or sealed vs covered bearings the Bauer and Hercules seem to both be built well. One video claimed the Hercules might be as good as a DeWalt, I'm sure Bauer is not as good as Hercules but I can't remember there being anything significantly different. So if I do satisfy my lust for a new tool I think Bauer might be alright, at least it will match my Milwaukee red tools. It's strange to think the Harbor Freight tools are becoming less disposable. Not Wolverine fucked around with this message at 19:16 on Nov 30, 2019 |
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Nov 30, 2019 15:07
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Crotch Fruit posted:I know I hate scroll saws and jog saws when they bind, I assume a sawzall might be similar but I completely forgot I own a sawzall so I will give it a try. I'm a little skeptical of it doing the job simply because it is pretty thick metal. Sharp blade.
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Nov 30, 2019 16:22
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Dr. Habibi posted:Closest match I could find was this set, but a dissimilar yet functional equivalent would be a Zack Rabbit set. No, that link is exactly it. No idea how they derived Montana as a brand name, but those are really handy. Thanks.
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Nov 30, 2019 16:44
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Mr. Mambold posted:No, that link is exactly it. No idea how they derived Montana as a brand name, but those are really handy. Thanks. Is this different than a flip drive drill set? Reminds me of the old craftsman drills (maybe?) that just had the front pop out you could turn it around and have a different driver on it
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Nov 30, 2019 17:01
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Is this different than a flip drive drill set? Reminds me of the old craftsman drills (maybe?) that just had the front pop out you could turn it around and have a different driver on it Idk, I don't remember any Craftsman sets like that. May be exactly what you're thinking of though.
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Nov 30, 2019 17:12
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Also here's the blue version https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-7-64-in-x-1-5-8-in-High-Speed-Steel-Twist-Drill-Bit/1208445
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Dec 1, 2019 01:19
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peepsalot posted:Also here's the blue version https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-7-64-in-x-1-5-8-in-High-Speed-Steel-Twist-Drill-Bit/1208445 Incontheivable. I must have the 2 dummy stores competing against one another in my city, neither one had clue.
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Dec 1, 2019 03:41
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I have that thing and I really hate it
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Dec 1, 2019 05:11
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Home Depot has a pretty killer deal on Dewalt batteries. 2 4AH and 4 2AH batteries for $179. https://www.homedepot.com/SpecialBuy/SpecialBuyOfTheDay
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Dec 2, 2019 17:36
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Is it safe to trim the top off my riving knife? It'd make life easier both for partial-thickness cuts, but mainly because as it stands it sticks up out of the table even when the blade is lowered all the way down: The top is, as far as I can tell, mostly for holding the blade guard / dust collector.
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Dec 4, 2019 14:53
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Jaded Burnout posted:Is it safe to trim the top off my riving knife? It'd make life easier both for partial-thickness cuts, but mainly because as it stands it sticks up out of the table even when the blade is lowered all the way down: I cant see why it would be a problem to cut it off.
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Dec 4, 2019 15:50
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Jaded Burnout posted:Is it safe to trim the top off my riving knife? It'd make life easier both for partial-thickness cuts, but mainly because as it stands it sticks up out of the table even when the blade is lowered all the way down: You probably can. Mine is very quick and easy to remove so I just remove it for dados/non-through cuts. The chance of the blade pinching or kicking back is much lower if you aren’t cutting all the way through.
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Dec 4, 2019 15:53
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:You probably can. Mine is very quick and easy to remove so I just remove it for dados/non-through cuts. The chance of the blade pinching or kicking back is much lower if you aren’t cutting all the way through. It's more than I can't lay anything large on my workbench (not the one pictured) without removing the knife, which is a much more common thing than partial cuts.
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Dec 4, 2019 16:41
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Jaded Burnout posted:It's more than I can't lay anything large on my workbench (not the one pictured) without removing the knife, which is a much more common thing than partial cuts. Mine really isn't that hard to remove, I would definitely do that before I cut it
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Dec 4, 2019 16:53
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Most riving knives I've seen and used were flush with the topmost point of the blade disc, so the issue with partial thickness cuts didn't happen. It looks like on yours the only thing that extra tan sticking up does is hold the blade guard like you said. I also use my saw as extra table space so it would drive me nuts to have a small tab of sheet metal sticking up all the time.
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Dec 4, 2019 16:56
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Jaded Burnout posted:It's more than I can't lay anything large on my workbench (not the one pictured) without removing the knife, which is a much more common thing than partial cuts. If you cut it just make sure to smooth/round over the edges so there is nothing that can catch while cutting.
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Dec 4, 2019 17:03
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Here is an equally easy solution to removing your riving knife or cutting it up: build a plywood cover for it with some blocking underneath so you can put your stuff on it and not deal with having to wonder where it is if you took it off and put it in one of your piles  (we all have the piles, I cleaned my shop recently and can't find poo poo!)
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Dec 4, 2019 17:13
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Mine really isn't that hard to remove, I would definitely do that before I cut it Find a screwdriver, unlatch and remove the cover, crank the blade all the way up, reach in and partially unscrew a bolt, press the bolt with one hand while removing the knife with the other, replace the cover, re-latch it, lower the blade again. Every time I want to chuck something a bit long on the table. That or do it every time I set up a cut, I'm not sure which is worse. I'd also like to keep the knife in at all times if possible to reduce the chance of me forgetting to use it, and also not have to gently caress around just to put a thing on a table. JEEVES420 posted:If you cut it just make sure to smooth/round over the edges so there is nothing that can catch while cutting. Good note. Edit: Harry Potter on Ice posted:Here is an equally easy solution to removing your riving knife or cutting it up: build a plywood cover for it with some blocking underneath so you can put your stuff on it and not deal with having to wonder where it is if you took it off and put it in one of your piles So instead of having a metal tab sticking up out of the table getting in the way I have a cuboid of plywood sticking up out of the table getting in the way?? Or do you mean a cover for the entire table? Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 17:17 on Dec 4, 2019 |
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Dec 4, 2019 17:14
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Jaded Burnout posted:Find a screwdriver, unlatch and remove the cover, crank the blade all the way up, reach in and partially unscrew a bolt, press the bolt with one hand while removing the knife with the other, replace the cover, re-latch it, lower the blade again. Every time I want to chuck something a bit long on the table. To the first part: Yes that sounds like a couple minute of work. Throw a magnet or something on the side of your saw and keep it on that? To the second part: Yes, I was only half joking. It sounds like you don't use your saw much and need space to put things on that your saw is taking up
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Dec 4, 2019 17:20
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:To the second part: Yes, I was only half joking. It sounds like you don't use your saw much and need space to put things on that your saw is taking up If it was a dedicated table saw station then I'd not cut it, but since it's a general purpose workbench that happens to have a table saw built into it, it's gotta play nice with everything else.
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Dec 4, 2019 17:24
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Jaded Burnout posted:If it was a dedicated table saw station then I'd not cut it, but since it's a general purpose workbench that happens to have a table saw built into it, it's gotta play nice with everything else. Ah yea word bad solution.
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Dec 4, 2019 17:25
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Ah yea word bad solution. I could've been clearer about that from the outset.
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Dec 4, 2019 17:26
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Cut it, just don't cut it in a way that bends the riving knife at all. Not having a mount for the blade guard isn't as big a deal as removing the riving knife and thinking "eh I don't want to put it back on, I'll make this quick cut" and getting a kickback. Anything you can do to only ever have to remove it for a dado stack is good.
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Dec 4, 2019 17:39
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:You probably can. Mine is very quick and easy to remove so I just remove it for dados/non-through cuts. The chance of the blade pinching or kicking back is much lower if you aren’t cutting all the way through. Table saws are excellent at removing dedos
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Dec 4, 2019 17:44
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Hypnolobster posted:Anything you can do to only ever have to remove it for a dado stack is good. They're some form of illegal or otherwise unavailable in the UK anyway.
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Dec 4, 2019 18:17
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Don't cut it, just get some sheet steel and make a new one based on the old one so you still have the option to mount a blade guard. If it's anything like mine, there are a couple of slots that slip over the attachment bolts, just trace that shape into the new steel and go nuts on the top side, just make sure you end it tangent with the top of the blade. I did it with some scrap steel shelving and a jigsaw.
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Dec 4, 2019 18:27
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Dielectric posted:Don't cut it, just get some sheet steel and make a new one based on the old one so you still have the option to mount a blade guard. If it's anything like mine, there are a couple of slots that slip over the attachment bolts, just trace that shape into the new steel and go nuts on the top side, just make sure you end it tangent with the top of the blade. I did it with some scrap steel shelving and a jigsaw. I have some aluminium sheet lying around but not steel, would that do? Or is it going to bend?
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Dec 4, 2019 19:04
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Jaded Burnout posted:I have some aluminium sheet lying around but not steel, would that do? Or is it going to bend? It really depends on the Al; if it's hardware-store grade 6063 it might be too soft. Some 7075 would be pretty good, I think. My first try with steel was too thin and vibrated to the point where the wood hung up on it. I'd just match the gauge of your guard with steel and save the aluminum for something pretty.
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Dec 4, 2019 19:13
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Dielectric posted:It really depends on the Al; if it's hardware-store grade 6063 it might be too soft. Some 7075 would be pretty good, I think. My first try with steel was too thin and vibrated to the point where the wood hung up on it. I'd just match the gauge of your guard with steel and save the aluminum for something pretty. It's some offcut aluminium coping. Unfortunately I can't find the grade in any of the technical docs, just the 2mm thickness.
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Dec 4, 2019 19:37
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Jaded Burnout posted:It's some offcut aluminium coping. Unfortunately I can't find the grade in any of the technical docs, just the 2mm thickness. I'd be more apt to buy a replacement splitter from the manufacturer and cut that up then try to make one from scrap. Cutting off the nib with an angle grinder and dremeling/sanding down the edges sounds safer.
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Dec 4, 2019 20:19
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