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I got all of my stuff in this week and I'm very excited about putting it together and playing minesweeper in 1440p at unlocked framerates. This thread was incredibly helpful. Question that may be better served in the monitor thread: I got a FreeSync monitor and an AMD card. The range of refresh rates on the monitor goes from 30hz to 144hz. Should I use something like Rivatuner to limit the max fps to 144?
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Jan 9, 2020 20:45
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Stickman posted:G.Skill's testing is to make sure that it hits the rated speed, so if it's on their list you should hit the advertised timings. I suspect some subtimings might not be quite as tight, but it should at least work well enough out-of-the-box. RAM manufacturers warrant that it'll hit it's rated speed when they put it on the box / spec sheet. Like I said, it's possible it won't but that's not terribly likely. The testing is extra peace of mind, sure, but there's reasons no one besides G. Skill does it, and why G. Skill and Crucial specifically note that the QVL isn't the be-all, end-all in their RAM FAQs, and Kingston offers technical support to anyone having trouble hitting the speeds. QVL can have benefits from stored subtimings on the Mobo, but unless you're trying to run a very unusual (high speed) configuration, I wouldn't worry about it at all for compatibility, Zen1 excepted. E: missed that they were looking at 32gb. That's worth looking at a compatibility list. And now my face is covered in egg.
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Jan 9, 2020 20:46
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Scruff McGruff posted:It can be tough, I've had to talk myself down a few times recently because I just did my major system overhaul and now CES is happening so all the new and shiny announcements are happening. I had a bit of a panic just yesterday because MSI announced their X570 Tomahawk board but then I reminded myself that the name is just branding and doesn't necessarily mean it's the same quality/value board as the B450 and also that I have zero use for an X570 board and don't need to pay double what I did for my motherboard (and they also confirmed no B550 until maybe Q3 this year so I can at least feel good about not waiting for that). It's easy to get caught up in the hype. The advice i usually give people is only look when you find that your system is really suffering performance-wise or something breaks. It's how I stopped myself from buying for the sake of buying when the product cycle refreshed every year. He went and bought the ram and the 9900k. ItBreathes posted:At least you've got a long time to come up with creative ways to say 'I told you so?" Yeah...when his frames are close to mine since we have the same system. He is putting the 9900k on a z370 and getting rgb ram to have it all match. I gave up on him since he is just blowing money for the sake of it.
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Jan 9, 2020 20:52
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Jolo posted:I got all of my stuff in this week and I'm very excited about putting it together and playing minesweeper in 1440p at unlocked framerates. This thread was incredibly helpful. Blurbuster's g-sync recommendations should apply more or less equally to freesync: - Set ingame or RTSS' framelimiter to at least 3 fps less than your monitors maximum (in this case, <=141). This reduces the chance that small frame time variances will go past the Freesync limit and cause momentary tearing. I just use RTSS for everything because I'm too lazy to turn it on and off for particular games. - Turn off vsync in-game, force it ON in Catalyst. This will catch any stray frames that make it past the 141 fps frame limit, but won't impact other frames since the drivers are smart enough to disable vsync when freesync is active. ItBreathes posted:E: missed that they were looking at 32gb. That's worth looking at a compatibility list. And now my face is covered in egg. I was wondering  But yeah, nearly anything 2x8GB 3200 cl16 or slower/smaller will be fine with XMP out of the box.
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Jan 9, 2020 21:21
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Does the Ryzen 7 2700x run a little warm? I want to rule out the case's thermals, because right now the CPU is idling at around 43-50C, and under loads gets to 65-79C. Case is a Cooler Master Q300L with 2 x 140mm intake fans and a pre-installed 120mm exhaust fan. Using stock Wraith Prism cooler with stock thermal paste. I also read online that the 2700x temp readings have a 10-20C offset though... is that true? [edit] I'm using custom fan curves for all fans. I also ran Heaven benchmark overnight, and it didn't crash. Should I bother re-seating the CPU cooler? teagone fucked around with this message at 21:26 on Jan 9, 2020 |
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Jan 9, 2020 21:22
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Ryzen Master should tell you the correct temp. I think your temps are within spec but you can always increase the fan speed in the bios. Does the temp lower a bunch if you go into windows power saver mode? Mine goes down like 8 degress celsius if I do that. But I just leave it on balanced and let it do its thing.
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Jan 9, 2020 21:25
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Cross-posting from the SFF thread, after months of bothering you all in here and there i finally decided to just buy something, so ended up with: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 1600 3.2 GHz 6-Core Processor (£89.97 @ CCL Computers) Motherboard: ASRock Fatal1ty B450 Gaming-ITX/ac Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard (£104.88 @ More Computers) Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (£64.75 @ Amazon UK) Power Supply: Corsair SF 600 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply (£90.95) Case Fan: Noctua NF-A8 PWM 32.66 CFM 80 mm Fan (£13.50 @ Amazon UK) Case Fan: ARCTIC F12 PWM PST 53 CFM 120 mm Fan (£4.99 @ Amazon UK) Case Fan: ARCTIC F12 PWM PST 53 CFM 120 mm Fan (£4.99 @ Amazon UK) Custom: Sharkoon QB One PC-Gehäuse (Mini-ITX, 2x 2,5/3,5 interne, 2x USB 3.0/2.0) (£39.57 @ Amazon UK) Total: £413.60 The 1600 is one of the new AF chips. For now I'll be using my old GTX 770, I'm just curious to see how the 5600XTs are. If they aren't great then i'll grab a 1660 super and an M.2 drive at some point and should be set for a while. I game at 1200p so went pretty budget but it's still a huge jump over my current pc of a q6600, 333mz ddr2 ram etc. Thanks to all for their suggestions. teagone posted:Does the Ryzen 7 2700x run a little warm? I want to rule out the case's thermals, because right now the CPU is idling at around 43-50C, and under loads gets to 65-79C. Case is a Cooler Master Q300L with 2 x 140mm intake fans and a pre-installed 120mm exhaust fan. Using stock Wraith Prism cooler with stock thermal paste. I also read online that the 2700x temp readings have a 10-20C offset though... is that true? Not sure if this is the problem but the Q500L has massive issues with temps, to the point GN took a drill to it to try and fix it and still couldn't. It might be the Q300L has the same issue? I think they are very similar. Lungboy fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Jan 9, 2020 |
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Jan 9, 2020 21:28
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Mu Zeta posted:Ryzen Master should tell you the correct temp. I think your temps are within spec but you can always increase the fan speed in the bios. Setting to Windows Power Saver power profile has temps idle consistently around 43C. No spikes up to or past 50C.
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Jan 9, 2020 21:35
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teagone posted:Does the Ryzen 7 2700x run a little warm? I want to rule out the case's thermals, because right now the CPU is idling at around 43-50C, and under loads gets to 65-79C. Case is a Cooler Master Q300L with 2 x 140mm intake fans and a pre-installed 120mm exhaust fan. Using stock Wraith Prism cooler with stock thermal paste. I also read online that the 2700x temp readings have a 10-20C offset though... is that true? I actually asked the same thing in the AMD thread, check out there replies if you want: GunnerJ posted:Does the Ryzen 2700X have a known reputation for running a bit hotter than usual? Mine idles at between 50-60, and it seems like the fan spins up whenever I do anything besides read the screen. Not sure if the cooler is fixed on improperly or I slopped up the thermal paste and need to re-apply.
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Jan 9, 2020 21:36
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Lungboy posted:Not sure if this is the problem but the Q500L has massive issues with temps, to the point GN took a drill to it to try and fix it and still couldn't. It might be the Q300L has the same issue? I think they are very similar. I did read this, but most threads on reddit seemed to suggest that the Q300L's thermals are fine if you add 2 front intake fans. Hmm...
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Jan 9, 2020 21:37
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Shaocaholica posted:What's the worst case main memory and vram usage with current games? At 4K. Where are we at these days?
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Jan 9, 2020 21:44
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Mu Zeta posted:Ryzen Master should tell you the correct temp. I think your temps are within spec but you can always increase the fan speed in the bios. Ok weird, going back to this. Ryzen Master is now showing idle temps of ~34-35C — what I did though was I downloaded this app called QuickCPU, and it showed the CPU's turbo boost index was 100%. Once I set that to 50%, idle temps dropped significantly. What is turbo boost index? Lol.
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Jan 9, 2020 22:28
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Klyith posted:If you prefer nvidia and saving money for a complete new build is not an issue, the 2060 super is a better pick than the non-super. That's a yes for both. Thanks for the help.
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Jan 10, 2020 03:11
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What's a good PC controller for casual driving games? Still an xbox controller? I'm not sure what exactly is out in the market right now. Does MS make a PC specific xbox controller? Is there a first party MS wired controller?
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Jan 10, 2020 04:42
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Shaocaholica posted:Does MS make a PC specific xbox controller? Is there a first party MS wired controller? This guy should do it.
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Jan 10, 2020 04:46
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HappyCapybaraFamily posted:This guy should do it. So there's no wired controller for xbox one? They're all wireless with a micro USB port for wired mode and charge over the same cable?
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Jan 10, 2020 04:53
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Afaik, yes. You could look for a wired 360 controller but I don't know how easy those are to find anymore. Comedy option: Hyperkin Duke Someone tell me not to buy one, my massive hands miss a well sized controller.
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Jan 10, 2020 04:58
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I bought an official xbox one controller and it works with PC out of the box through bluetooth. I beat Celeste and Super Meat Boy and it is very responsive.
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Jan 10, 2020 05:09
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Shaocaholica posted:What's a good PC controller for casual driving games? Still an xbox controller? I'm not sure what exactly is out in the market right now. Does MS make a PC specific xbox controller? Is there a first party MS wired controller? The xbox controller works when plugged in. They do wireless, but you can connect it via its microusb and it'll work.
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Jan 10, 2020 05:12
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Hi, I need some advice. Not sure if this is the correct thread for this. I'm likely in the market for a new budget laptop for my father. He's currently using a years old Windows 7 laptop to support running payroll for a small business. Here are the requirements:
I've looked into Chromebooks, but don't know if they can manage the PDFs and I don't think I can do remote support. Also, I've never used a Chromebook so I couldn't instruct from memory. I've looked on Best Buy and Newegg, and there are plenty of sub $500 options, but it's hard to tell them apart. Thoughts?
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Jan 10, 2020 16:50
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You'll probably have more luck in the laptop thread. It's also stickied.
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Jan 10, 2020 17:04
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ZentraediElite posted:Hi, I need some advice. Not sure if this is the correct thread for this. quote:I'm likely in the market for a new budget laptop for my father. He's currently using a years old Windows 7 laptop to support running payroll for a small business. If you get something lightweight it will be an all-plastic body and kinda need to be babied when carried around. If your dad is a careful guy who will put the laptop into a case or shoulder bag when bringing it back and forth, that might work out ok. If he's a toss stuff in the truck dude this won't work out great. Also cheap laptops generally skimp on battery so check the watt hours, if the portability requirement means he'll be using it unplugged.
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Jan 10, 2020 17:05
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ZentraediElite posted:Hi, I need some advice. Not sure if this is the correct thread for this. Cheap laptops skimp in the following areas: -Crappy plastic shells instead of higer quality polymers or aluminum/magnesium composites -Tiny 2-hour batteries -Using the jump from 4gb of RAM to 8gb of RAM as a pricing tier feature so if you want 8gb out the box you have to also get a bigger/faster storage drive or upgraded CPU/Display that you don't need. -Using slow HDDs or eMMC which in some cases was so small the laptops couldn't even update windows because they couldn't fit both the OS and the size of the update file on their drive and can't be improved or replaced because it's soldered directly into the motherboard. Fortunately the battery one is really the only one that's hard to fix. Most laptops (especially cheaper ones) usually have a spare SODIMM slot so you can add your own second stick of memory for way less than they charge for their 8gb models and many now also have empty M.2 slots so you can easily add an M.2 SSD if you want, again for much less than they'd charge for one. If there's a laptop you think looks pretty good but the RAM or Storage specs aren't to your liking pull up that model's service manual and look for both of those. You can find 4gb SODIMM sticks new or even off eBay for cheap that'll work just fine. Regardless of what laptop it is, if it's a 4gb model you should definitely look at upgrading it to 8gb yourself. Maybe it's just me but even just for web browsing (insert Chrome memory joke) 4gb just isn't enough anymore, 8 is so much better. Scruff McGruff fucked around with this message at 17:37 on Jan 10, 2020 |
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Jan 10, 2020 17:31
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Hi goons. Yesterday I replaced my years out of warranty CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX650 650W with a CX650m and while it's nice that it's semi-modular. It is so much louder. I'm thinking of returning it for a newer semi-modular TX650m, but wanted to check if there's a goon consensus on PSUs.
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Jan 10, 2020 21:06
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I only ask really dumb questions here, but does anyone have recommendations for the "best" RAM to get for a Z170-A? I imagine the GPU (RX 5700 XT) doesn't matter, but the box mentions DDR6 as a cool "feature" even though I'm pretty sure my motherboard prevents that from being my reality.
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Jan 10, 2020 21:14
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LODGE NORTH posted:I only ask really dumb questions here, but does anyone have recommendations for the "best" RAM to get for a Z170-A? I imagine the GPU (RX 5700 XT) doesn't matter, but the box mentions DDR6 as a cool "feature" even though I'm pretty sure my motherboard prevents that from being my reality. I would assume that's referring to the vRAM on the Graphics card itself, which would be GDDR6. AFAIK we're still a long ways of from DDR6 for motherboards, there's only just now starting to be rumors about DDR5 RAM.
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Jan 10, 2020 21:19
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OhFunny posted:Hi goons. PSU prices have gone up a bit in the past month, but for that price just get a Corsair RMX 650W or a Seasonic Focus Gold Plus 550W if you don't need 650W. They'll both be at least as quiet as the TX, fully modular, and have 10-year warranties. In general I recommend whatever's currently cheapest from the Corsair RMX (2018), Corsair RM (2019), Seasonic Focus Gold Plus (or Platinum). The EVGA G3, G2, and G1+ are good too, but the G1+ doesn't have a fanless mode and the 550/650W versions of the G2/G3 only have 7-year warranties (which isn't a big deal). The G5 finally got a proper review, too, and it sounds like it's decent enough to recommend and might be slightly quieter than the other EVGA models. Stickman fucked around with this message at 21:30 on Jan 10, 2020 |
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Jan 10, 2020 21:26
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tehinternet posted:Hey guys — what’s the current recommendation for connecting a desktop to AC WiFi in the long term? I have a cheap USB dongle but it’s hot garbage for anything longer than half an hour. You can either buy the M.2 modules directly, but they don't come with antennas and buying and attaching those is kind of fiddly IIRC. The easier option is a card that has the Intel M.2 on a PCI-e card together with a custom antenna set, however I can't find one right now with the latest Intel cards (there's the Gigabyte GC-CI22M but it seems to use the "CNVi" version of that card so if your mainboard doesn't have a slot like that it's useless I think). The older Wireless-AC cards can be bought like that on eg. the Gigabyte WB867D. orcane fucked around with this message at 21:58 on Jan 10, 2020 |
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Jan 10, 2020 21:47
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Hi friends. My current computer was a very loving gift, and has served honorably and well, but I think it might be a tad elderly now. It struggles to the point of unplayability for MHW:Iceborne, so I think it's time to look into some upgrades for it. My goal is to play Iceborne at medium? settings at 60fps. Problem is, I don't know anything about computer parts. I don't even know where to start learning. I am comfortable trying to put the parts together rather than buying something pre-built. Speccy tells me this is my summary: Operating System Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit SP1 CPU Intel Core i7 3770 @ 3.40GHz Ivy Bridge 22nm Technology RAM 16.0GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 798MHz (11-11-11-28) Motherboard Alienware 0KM92T (CPU 1) Graphics DELL U2312HM (1920x1080@60Hz) Intel HD Graphics 4000 (Dell) 1535MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660 (NVIDIA) ForceWare version: 430.86 SLI Disabled Storage 931GB Seagate ST1000DM003-1CH162 ATA Device (SATA ) Optical Drives HL-DT-ST DVDRWBD CA40N ATA Device Audio Realtek High Definition Audio The case is a Alienware X51? Which means gently caress all to me. Do I need an entire new computer? Can I get away with upgrading a piece?
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Jan 10, 2020 22:27
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Essentially, you have a pre-built Alienware computer from 2012. If you are comfortable building your own and have a budget in mind, we can definitely help you out. Your current CPU is from 2012 as is your GPU. It's quite old, and I would personally recommend a full upgrade if you are able to. The x51 looks like one of those slim alienwares and I doubt any new GPU would slot into it nicely. It will also be super bottlenecked by your CPU. It's time for a full upgrade my friend.
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Jan 10, 2020 22:30
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OhFunny posted:Hi goons. In addition to Stickman's recs, the best cheap PSUs are the Corsair CX non-modular ones. The CX modular and non-modular are actually different setups inside, not just the modular cables. The non-modular are a LLC resonant design which hits 80plus Silver qualifications, but Corsair don't advertise it as such. It's a better & quieter PSU than the CX-M ones, just bundle the unneeded wires up at the bottom of your case. The TX-M are better than the RM but not as good as the RMx*, so as Stickman says might as well get an RMx-650 if you're hitting the $100+ level. The TX-Ms used to slot into the slightly cheaper sub-$100 zone back before PSU pricing got hosed up. *not in any really important way though, RMx is fully modular (which really doesn't matter for most people) and has a silent zero-fan mode at low power.
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Jan 10, 2020 22:34
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Thom P. Tiers posted:Essentially, you have a pre-built Alienware computer from 2012. If you are comfortable building your own and have a budget in mind, we can definitely help you out. Your current CPU is from 2012 as is your GPU. It's quite old, and I would personally recommend a full upgrade if you are able to. The x51 looks like one of those slim alienwares and I doubt any new GPU would slot into it nicely. It will also be super bottlenecked by your CPU. It's time for a full upgrade my friend. I agree with Thom, you're probably due for a whole PC replacement. If you can't swing that then I would say your best course of action is a GPU upgrade. You'll probably see some CPU bottleneck from anything newer than a 1070 but you'll definitely see a major bump from your 660. I was gaming on a 3770 until just recently and it was still more or less fine in most games and it meets the recommended spec for Icebourne. Scruff McGruff fucked around with this message at 23:01 on Jan 10, 2020 |
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Jan 10, 2020 22:41
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Thom P. Tiers posted:It's time for a full upgrade my friend. Scruff McGruff posted:I agree with Thom, you're probably due for a whole PC replacement. Aw, man. It hurts to hear but I believe you.  Thank you for the rapid replies.I'm in the US, my budget for a new computer would be $800~$1000. Do I also need to upgrade my monitor?
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Jan 10, 2020 22:51
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Vanant posted:Do I also need to upgrade my monitor? That depends on what ports it has. Most newer graphics cards only have HDMI and Display Port. You can get an adapter though if you don't want to buy a whole new monitor due to budget.
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Jan 10, 2020 22:53
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My X570 Aorus Elite got here and I'm trying to install it into this case, but I'm having trouble making it fit. The I/O backplate is built into the board and it's hitting the box, I'm not sure how it's supposed to fit in. Does anyone have experience installing these?
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Jan 10, 2020 23:23
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My graphics card has two display ports and two hdmi ports. I have a second monitor that only has a DVI port and a VGA port. Is it possible to plug that monitor into the motherboard DVI port and get a display? I've fiddled with it but haven't had any luck so far. If that isn't possible, is a dvi/hdmi or a dvi/displayport cable the preferred option?
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Jan 10, 2020 23:23
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Elman posted:My X570 Aorus Elite got here and I'm trying to install it into this case, but I'm having trouble making it fit. The I/O backplate is built into the board and it's hitting the box, I'm not sure how it's supposed to fit in. Does anyone have experience installing these? Are there small tabs at the top of the built in I/O shield that you can kind of press up into the top corner of the case and then swing it down into the rest of the opening after that?
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Jan 10, 2020 23:31
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Jolo posted:My graphics card has two display ports and two hdmi ports. I have a second monitor that only has a DVI port and a VGA port. Is it possible to plug that monitor into the motherboard DVI port and get a display? I've fiddled with it but haven't had any luck so far. the dvi/hdmi cables do an amazing job. they carry the same signal so theres no real translating to do. you'll lose the benefit of audio but thats that. i was actually in a very similar situation as yourself and solved it with a ~$10 or maybe less cable from amazon
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Jan 10, 2020 23:33
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Jolo posted:My graphics card has two display ports and two hdmi ports. I have a second monitor that only has a DVI port and a VGA port. Is it possible to plug that monitor into the motherboard DVI port and get a display? I've fiddled with it but haven't had any luck so far. If you plug anything into the ports on your motherboard you're bypassing the GPU. If you have a Ryzen processor you won't get anything since they don't have integrated graphics but either way it's not what you want. HDMI->DVI can be done with a passive adaptor so it's going to be the easiest.
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Jan 10, 2020 23:35
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Thom P. Tiers posted:Are there small tabs at the top of the built in I/O shield that you can kind of press up into the top corner of the case and then swing it down into the rest of the opening after that? Yeah, but I just measured the hole and the plate and the plate's just a tiny bit wider than the hole so there's no way it's going in horizontally. and I don't really see a way to stick it in there sideways while also making the top of the panel snap into place. I'm thinking I'll have try to file that hole and make it slightly wider so the thing will actually fit. It's that, buying a case that fits properly or just removing the panel, but it's screwed into the board and also seems to be held in place by the case around so I'm kind of afraid to take it out.
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Jan 10, 2020 23:39
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