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HID? You can get them online for under $50/pair.
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Jan 11, 2020 00:50
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Yeah the HID. Time was a factor, unfortunately, or they would have been ordered online.
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Jan 11, 2020 01:41
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Tomorrow, I attempt another suspension. It's an Indiana car, so hopefully the rust won't be as dire.
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Jan 11, 2020 02:24
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Minto Took posted:Tomorrow, I attempt another suspension. It's an Indiana car, so hopefully the rust won't be as dire. Oh sweet child.
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Jan 11, 2020 06:22
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Rhyno posted:Oh sweet child. I grew up in Indianapolis and my college Cavalier wasn’t terrible when I did that suspension. The Civic I tried to do last time was a Wisconsin car.
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Jan 11, 2020 06:26
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Minto Took posted:I grew up in Indianapolis and my college Cavalier wasn’t terrible when I did that suspension. The Civic I tried to do last time was a Wisconsin car. I did the suspension on my 215k mile NJ/PA Forester last year and didn’t even have a single stubborn bolt. All four struts in an hour. My mind was blown
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Jan 11, 2020 13:21
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I ripped a few parts off an Integra in a junkyard down here in Texas and was absolutely flabbergasted at the lack of effort required. My poor old critter spent half its life in Maine and every bolt takes work (and prayer that it comes out in one piece)
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Jan 11, 2020 16:28
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It'll depend on the make as well, and dumb luck maybe too. Working on Honda's in Canada's frozen north is not too bad, the bolts will typically put up a fight to break loose but once they've cracked they come out almost finger tight. Worked on a newish Ford transit at the time that came from Ontario and the entire job was an unending b string of cursing and fighting with every bolt and nut to the very last thread. It was agonizing. My Subaru's, they are a mix of both depending on the fastener.
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Jan 11, 2020 16:47
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Bajaha posted:It'll depend on the make as well, and dumb luck maybe too. Working on Honda's in Canada's frozen north is not too bad, the bolts will typically put up a fight to break loose but once they've cracked they come out almost finger tight. Except for the loving brake rotor screws and the rear shock lower eye bolt on EGs.
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Jan 11, 2020 16:56
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Panty Saluter posted:All the 0 means there is it flows better at low temperature, so the worst case is that is changes literally nothing Yeah that's not completely true. Multi grade oils are a thin base oil that get their high temperature viscosity through polymer additives which have a different viscosity/temperature gradient than the base oil. A 0WXX oil has a thinner base oil than a 10WXX. this is important because as the oil degrades it doesn't degrade towards the middle but towards the base oil viscosity, leaving you with a potential inadequate high temperature viscosity at maximum service interval. This is of course a non issue if you disregard the ludicrous service intervals and change oil every 10k km. That's really the best advice ever when it comes to oil. Forget the 7 herbs and spices, forget unobtainium oil just get whatever part synthetic or HC synthetic oil checks your manufactures specs, match the correct viscosity for your temperature and usage and change that stuff frequently. Combat Theory fucked around with this message at 17:10 on Jan 11, 2020 |
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Jan 11, 2020 17:01
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Except for the loving brake rotor screws and the rear shock lower eye bolt on EGs. With rotor screws I'll give them a good try, but after that out comes the drill.
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Jan 11, 2020 17:43
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C-Bangin' it 
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I made a temporary fix to the wagon's exhaust because someone stole its catalytic converter recently, plus the o2 sensor got snipped and nicked as well since its threaded directly into the cat. I was able to move the glass-pack & muffler I had on it further upstream for now, near the header pipe, and its not pretty but since I'm wrenching on the roadside I'm not especially keen to be on my back in the street for very long. Especially at these temps. It'll have to do for now.  Oh, and I'm sure the rear shocks are blown because I mismatched them to the springs I ordered (too short), the plastic front fascia of the glove-box fell off, and the connection at the RR tail-lamp is finicky. There's more, but the wife's car is throwing a CEL for a cold-start signal, plus knock and o2 sensors. Thankfully her car didn't get vandalized because it's sitting below stock height; not that I lowered it any it's just overdue for shocks/struts. Edit; Minto Took posted:Tomorrow, I attempt another suspension. It's an Indiana car, so hopefully the rust won't be as dire. Mild steel fastener I installed 3 months ago (Oct. 2019):  Embrace death. stone soup fucked around with this message at 19:00 on Jan 11, 2020 |
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Jan 11, 2020 18:38
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No place to hang these yet until I build another garage but i went and got them anyway. Honda dealer letters that happened to be manufactured on my birthday. I did not realize how big they would be all arranged. 
Imperador do Brasil fucked around with this message at 20:12 on Jan 11, 2020 |
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Jan 11, 2020 20:01
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jeebus.
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Jan 11, 2020 20:10
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1995 Corolla: -Replaced leaky power steering pressure line (surprisingly not awful) -Replaced blown stupid little license plate bulbs -Attempted to adjust junkyard headlight and snapped a piece of plastic crucial to its adjustment mechanism (yay), but used steel wire to get it in a good fixed position for the time being Let's see if I get rejected again! (Likely)
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Jan 12, 2020 00:24
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Trip report: Suspension went fine. Nothing an impact wrench and Liquid Wrench couldn't unstick.
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Jan 12, 2020 01:05
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Adjusted the valves in the truck yesterday, what a world of difference (crate motor, they were way too tight before). I like to do the adjustment with the truck running, mostly because it's quicker, but I was not prepared for how much oil a motor that actually makes pressure throws around. Gave the passenger side quite a bath before I stuck some cardboard in there. As a bonus I got to replace the belt tensioner twice! Once because the pulley bolt stripped rendering the tensioner inoperable, and then again because the brand new tensioner was hosed out of the box. Yay parts store garbage 
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Jan 12, 2020 21:48
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A Small Car posted:Adjusted the valves in the truck yesterday, Is that some truck specific thing because hell that doesn't sound like a normal procedure to me.
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Jan 12, 2020 23:18
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I always understood it as more of a preference thing. Proper procedure is at least somewhat similar to everything else out there (engine off, specific lash, etc), but the valve covers are so easy to pull, I'd rather just do it running. Then the lifters are pumped up and everything gets set that way, instead of either setting them before they've pumped up, or running it and hoping they all stay pumped up for the adjustment. Running, it takes me about 20 minutes to adjust all the valves (and that includes pulling the AC compressor to remove the passenger valve cover), off it takes me significantly longer and I've never thought the motors I've done that way ran as well. I just back the nut off until the valve starts to tick, tighten it until the ticking stops, and go another 1/4 turn after that. FWIW, the engine had an initial valve adjustment done the proper way, and they were ridiculously tight. I could hear a couple that weren't fully closing and it made the engine really uneven, especially at idle. I probably keep mine a bit too loose when I do the adjustment, but the engine's noticeably happier now.
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Jan 12, 2020 23:35
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Haha, I think it just sounds odd because common valve adjustment is swapping the shim under the bucket or the adjuster / lock nut is on the end of the rocker over the valve, which is moving when the motor is turning over. I'm assuming yours is an OHC Chevy motor or something where the adjuster is in the center of the rocker arm.
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Jan 12, 2020 23:42
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Yup, just a basic small block chevy with an overhead cam. Other engine designs would be a lot harder to adjust while running
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Jan 13, 2020 00:28
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Wouldn't that be overhead valve? 
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Jan 13, 2020 00:45
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You're right, I wasn't thinking when I said OHC. OHV 
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Jan 13, 2020 00:55
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STR posted:Wouldn't that be overhead valve? Yes it should be, and I just went with it  I'll leave my stupidity intact for posterity
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Jan 13, 2020 01:37
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A Small Car posted:Yes it should be, and I just went with it It's ok. You're A Small Car.
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Jan 13, 2020 01:49
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Yesterday: Replaced wheel hub and knuckle on my Subaru for the 3rd time (don't ask). The road noise is finally gone. Got a code for O2 sensor circuit low last week. Unplugged, cleaned and greased up the pins. Plugged back in and the check engine light is gone without clearing codes. Seems like a fix to me. Hopefully I get this thing out of my life soon. Saturday:  Was at the Junkyard for other cars when I happened to spot the exact year and color of my Jeep; but when is there NOT a gold Grand Cherokee at the junkyard. Pulled a fender but haven't put it on yet.   Debadged my xB since I'm replacing this hatch at some point anyways. I think I like it! Oh my plates arrived too.
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Jan 13, 2020 14:18
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Chunjee posted:Yesterday: I suspect you ran into the same issue I had. About to do the same thing.  Someone's replaced the RF knuckle before, complete with the axle. Getting the axle out was a complete bitch involving a bent press and oxy/acet fueled fire, not even gonna try to pull the hub. There wasn't even visible rust on the axle stub, it was just stuck in there drat good. The wheel bearing didn't take well to being heated nearly white hot.
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Jan 13, 2020 16:03
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After reading all the Subaru chat, it is nice to know I can safely cross another automaker off the "perhaps ok to buy list."
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Jan 13, 2020 17:10
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Cross-post from my personal thread:Darchangel posted:So I pulled the wheel and tire off of the Crown Vic to have it patched. I think I found the leak: Edit: tires are in, so now I need to find a time to go to Discount Tire and wait 2 hours to have them installed. 2x $114 tires = $327 after all the BS!
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Jan 13, 2020 23:08
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Last week my dad tells me he thinks there's a dust shield scraping in his 2013 Impala and asks if I can take a look at it. I will preface this by saying that my dad is pretty hard of hearing and I'm pretty sure he turns his hearing aid off when he's not actively having a conversation. I pick up the car and immediately see that the front passenger side rotor has some pretty groves in it. Driving it with no brake applied gives you a pleasant metal on metal scraping / grinding that you can also feel. Thankfully, his house is two doors down from my house.   Notice the incredibly uneven wear on the rotor.  Still plenty of the brake pad's back plate left:  Thankfully the caliper compressed just fine and there are no leaks anywhere on it. Rust appropriate for Midwest winter driving.  The brake fluid looked fine. All of the caliper pins looked to be in great shape. I cleaned and re-lubed them all.  New Duralast (official brake rotors of NASCAR) Gold rotors and pads installed and ready to go. Still have to take it for a shake down drive. 
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Jan 14, 2020 02:17
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Is that a high carbon content rotor? Never seen one that color before
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Jan 14, 2020 03:09
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looks like it was sprayed with rust reformer
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Jan 14, 2020 03:13
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Panty Saluter posted:Is that a high carbon content rotor? Never seen one that color before It says it is. Also claims to have "Z-cladding" to inhibit corrosion.
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Jan 14, 2020 03:45
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Be interested to see it after a few miles
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Jan 14, 2020 15:41
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Panty Saluter posted:Be interested to see it after a few miles I'm sure it will have a lovely patina of rust like everything else up here. Its fancy coating rendered useless.
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Jan 14, 2020 18:27
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Colostomy Bag posted:After reading all the Subaru chat, it is nice to know I can safely cross another automaker off the "perhaps ok to buy list." You definitely need to pay attention to head gaskets and make sure matching tires are on them, but otherwise they're as reliable as any other car of the era, and they tend to hold up very well in accidents. Electronics are mostly Denso, Jatco made their traditional automatics (they're a Nissan spinoff, but made transmissions for Nissan, Mitsubishi, Subaru, Ford, Mazda, Land Rover, VW, Renault, and others), and they're fun to slide around. Yes, even the nearly 2 ton pig with 165 hp known as the early 00s Outback wagon can slide if you toss it around hard enough. Just don't get a $1600 Subaru and expect it to be road trip ready. It's been like working on most other cheap cars so far.
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Jan 14, 2020 20:46
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Follow up on the Impala. For those wondering, these are the rotors after putting two miles on them:  (Yes, that's a buttload of anti seize on it, I've spent way too much of my life trying to get off wheels that were stuck on sure to corrosion and given how my dad takes care of his cars I don't want to take any chances, don't give me poo poo about it.) The brakes sound and feel fine (yay!). The ABS and stability warnings did not go away, however. I don't have a super fancy, shop scan tool. My Bluetooth ODBII reader didn't show anything. I popped the wheel off and checked the resistance on the sensor side. It was at ~1.0-1.1 kOhms (I'm not sure what spec is, but that doesn't seem too far off).  I check the voltage on the vehicle side of the harness and it seemed ok ~4.8 V.  I'm not sure if the Impala requires a full drive cycle to reset that. A replacement hub/bearing/sensor assembly would only be about $60, give or take, so it would be more to take it in to get a diagnosis. Any recommendations on the next step for fixing the ABS/stability alarm? nadmonk fucked around with this message at 00:33 on Jan 15, 2020 |
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Jan 15, 2020 00:27
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If you don't want to guess..... https://www.amazon.com/Autel-AL619-Autolink-Automotive-Diagnostic/dp/B0091DJWV0/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=autel+scanner&qid=1579045993&sr=8-15 I've had this one for about 4 or 5 years and it's awesome. Haven't found anything else at the price point that covers ABS and SRS on so many cars. Upgrades nearly every year. The upgrade process is poo poo (you have to put the SD card in a PC and run a windows app, and it takes forever) but it works.
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Jan 15, 2020 00:54
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Motronic posted:If you don't want to guess..... That's awesome, thank you.
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Jan 15, 2020 01:42
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I think the sensors only need to go above around 15mph and if they're reading good, codes should disappear.
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Jan 15, 2020 02:34
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