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Anyone have any experience using liquitex soft acrylic paints? I picked up a few primary colors and white/black to experiment with and they seem pretty high quality, albeit a bit thick
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Jan 21, 2020 04:29
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Any good videos on Edge Highlighting? I think that's the skill I need to learn the most.
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Jan 21, 2020 04:34
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Verisimilidude posted:Anyone have any experience using liquitex soft acrylic paints? I picked up a few primary colors and white/black to experiment with and they seem pretty high quality, albeit a bit thick Artist grade paints can be nice, but I don't find they're really suited for miniature work. Paints specifically made for minis typically prize coverage/opaqueness, and how matte they are. Artist grade paints don't take those points into concern, so some colors, depending on pigment and carrier, can be quite transparent, and some can be very glossy straight out of the bottle. With a lot of massaging you can make them suitable for mini painting, but I find that more of a headache than just getting a nice Citadel or Vallejo paint which will be almost perfect right out of the bottle. I use a lot of artist paints for larger garage kits, and for thinning down into airbrush colors, as transparency is huge plus when doing some effects and trying to get smooth transitions and gradations. For minis though I always use a purpose made hobby paint, as it's just simpler in the end. If you look at the page for Golden Acrylics, you can click on a color and a paint chip will load up, showing the coverage of the color over white and black, and at various dilutions. If you check out several colors, you can see just how much of a difference there is in opaqueness from one color to the next. https://www.goldenpaints.com/products/colors/fluid
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Jan 21, 2020 04:38
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Bucnasti posted:I have no affiliation with this guy... I saw these and was interested at first until I imagined you're going to be relying on gravity as much as anything else to get paint out of them.
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Jan 21, 2020 07:01
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Werix posted:Nice. I like acid drips in the base. How long did it take you over the weekend to knock them out? I think around 10 hours. 1 squad of 7 left, then onto painting vehicles!
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Jan 21, 2020 07:27
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Ellaybee posted:I saw these and was interested at first until I imagined you're going to be relying on gravity as much as anything else to get paint out of them. From the video it looks like they’re flexible and can be squeezed to push the paint out. My concern is if they make a good seal and can be stoppered properly. The regular citadel tops already have bad seals.
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Jan 21, 2020 07:38
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I said come in! posted:The video in that blog post made me cringe super hard when they showed the citadel pot with paint pouring from it into the airbrush. The paint in that video is from their Air series, which is thinner and supposedly at the right consistency for airbrushing. The one I accidentally bought despite not owning an airbrush is about the consistency of milk.
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Jan 21, 2020 09:04
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goodness posted:I think around 10 hours. 1 squad of 7 left, then onto painting vehicles! Yeah, I'm still working on gluing stuff together, but soon I'll be having my xmas and birthday haul in front of me to paint, which is my largest project of: Two 10 man rubric marine squads One ten man tzangor squad One five man scrab Occult squad Three exalted sorcerers Ahriman It's kind of intimidating. I'm considering spending the godawful money on retributor armor spray to base coat instead of grey or white primer and hand painting the detail, but drat citadel spray is expensive. I'm half tempted to see how krylon gold metallic spray paint would work instead.
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Jan 21, 2020 15:48
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Verisimilidude posted:Anyone have any experience using liquitex soft acrylic paints? I picked up a few primary colors and white/black to experiment with and they seem pretty high quality, albeit a bit thick I use the liquitex heavy body acrylics on occasion for whites and other bright colors and they're fantastic. You do have to pay more attention to their opacity ratings, but they're all marked on the tubes so it's done for you.
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Jan 21, 2020 15:53
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long-rear end nips Diane posted:I use the liquitex heavy body acrylics on occasion for whites and other bright colors and they're fantastic. You do have to pay more attention to their opacity ratings, but they're all marked on the tubes so it's done for you. Any tips on thinning them down to appropriate levels? I'm using a wet palette which helps, but they're still relatively thick and I'm not sure water is doing the trick. I have glaze medium, but was considering picking up airbrush thinner for thinning paints.
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Jan 21, 2020 16:06
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Some more orks for progress updates. Actually starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel on all my infantry now (the light is green, and is probably more orks).  (Yes I know the base rim on the nob needs another coat >_>)
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Jan 21, 2020 16:07
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i like your checkering, is it freehand or stencilled?
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Jan 21, 2020 16:10
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Geisladisk posted:The paint in that video is from their Air series, which is thinner and supposedly at the right consistency for airbrushing. Ooh I know! I was more making a comment on how because their bottles are shaped in such a weird way, that pouring paint from them is super messy and wasteful no matter what. :P The camera cuts away just before you see what looks like a whole bunch of that paint about to drip down the side of the outside of the bottle.
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Jan 21, 2020 16:11
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Verisimilidude posted:Any tips on thinning them down to appropriate levels? I'm using a wet palette which helps, but they're still relatively thick and I'm not sure water is doing the trick. I have glaze medium, but was considering picking up airbrush thinner for thinning paints. once you figure out your recipe of flow improver, water, thinner, and medium you'll want to mix up a big bottle of it for easy thinning
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Jan 21, 2020 16:12
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Cat Face Joe posted:once you figure out your recipe of flow improver, water, thinner, and medium you'll want to mix up a big bottle of it for easy thinning Cool, I'll play around with that! One of the things I'm trying to do with this model painting is learning more about mixing paints and color theory, so I'll definitely experiment.
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Jan 21, 2020 16:15
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Verisimilidude posted:Any tips on thinning them down to appropriate levels? I'm using a wet palette which helps, but they're still relatively thick and I'm not sure water is doing the trick. I have glaze medium, but was considering picking up airbrush thinner for thinning paints. I tend to use glaze medium, but an airbrush thinner/flow improver combo would work as well. I don't like to use thinner on its own because it tends to make paint dry even more quickly than normal and that negates a big advantage of working with the heavy body paint.
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Jan 21, 2020 16:17
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Meeple posted:Some more orks for progress updates. Actually starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel on all my infantry now (the light is green, and is probably more orks). Wowsers those are cool oldass orks, like Rogue Trader era.
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Jan 21, 2020 16:17
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jesus WEP posted:i like your checkering, is it freehand or stencilled? Thanks! It's freehand, a lot of back and forth under a magnifying lens. Dreadwroth2 posted:Wowsers those are cool oldass orks, like Rogue Trader era. 1987 metals at their finest. I really love the old sculpts, they've got a lot of character to them. Once this mob is filled out I've got a box of the rogue trader plastics to do as well, which will complete my collection of a mob of every basic ork GW made.
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Jan 21, 2020 17:09
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Heroic Yoshimitsu posted:Any good videos on Edge Highlighting? I think that's the skill I need to learn the most. I think Miniac is kind of obnoxious, but this is as good a video as any. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4uLi2QLaRlg He does it the fancy way what requires hand-eye coordination, but if you're like me, you're better served running the side of your brush along the edge you're trying to highlight. What particular part is giving you trouble?
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Jan 21, 2020 17:28
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Is there a recommended chart to compare colors across lines? I'm trying to move toward VMC over Citadel paints, but the charts I found have different opinions on color matching, and some of them are probably out of date.
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Jan 21, 2020 18:26
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grassy gnoll posted:I think Miniac is kind of obnoxious, but this is as good a video as any. Maybe it's less the edge and more just general fine detail. Like for this next mini I'm painting, I feel like specifically the armor and the face feel a bit plain. Like there's more detail I could/should be adding, but it's difficult to do on such a small scale. The armor has a lot of plates and edges, but I feel like if I try to highlight those edges the paint will go all over. Maybe I just don't have small enough brushes? I have a 2, 1, 0 and triple 0 though so I don't think that's it. And right now the face is basically one color except for the eyes.
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Jan 21, 2020 19:06
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Knocked out a 40k Phobos Librarian:  Posting this, I realize I forgot to populate the purity parchment and it’s missing a bit that I can go back over. The Librarian gave me a good excuse to paint a non-green spaceman.
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Jan 21, 2020 20:00
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Heroic Yoshimitsu posted:Maybe it's less the edge and more just general fine detail. Like for this next mini I'm painting, I feel like specifically the armor and the face feel a bit plain. Like there's more detail I could/should be adding, but it's difficult to do on such a small scale. The armor has a lot of plates and edges, but I feel like if I try to highlight those edges the paint will go all over. Maybe I just don't have small enough brushes? I have a 2, 1, 0 and triple 0 though so I don't think that's it. And right now the face is basically one color except for the eyes. Edge highlighting is hard and more like actual freehand painting than normal "fill in the blocks" miniature painting. The 000 should be good as long as it isn't all gunked up and still holds a nice point. Just takes practice. I find the best thing is just looking at lots of pictures for ideas. Also, edge highlighting looks aces even if you kinda gently caress up. From table height it will be fine. (If you reaaaally gently caress up just basecoat again but you gotta go way overboard)
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Jan 21, 2020 21:11
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Zaphod42 posted:Edge highlighting is hard and more like actual freehand painting than normal "fill in the blocks" miniature painting. It's actually often easier to edge highlight with a larger brush - as long as it holds a good point the larger brush will hold more paint and let the paint flow better. The longer bristles also dampen vibrations from your hand. I do most of mine with a #1 brush, only dropping to smaller brushes if I'm trying to get into a particularly narrow space.
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Jan 21, 2020 21:21
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Booley posted:It's actually often easier to edge highlight with a larger brush - as long as it holds a good point the larger brush will hold more paint and let the paint flow better. The longer bristles also dampen vibrations from your hand. I do most of mine with a #1 brush, only dropping to smaller brushes if I'm trying to get into a particularly narrow space. 100% recommending the bigger brush. I use the edge of a 2 or 3 depending on what's to hand due to the lack of flex when using the side vs a teeny brush. It also means you can do it quicker resulting in less time for gently caress ups.
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Jan 21, 2020 21:31
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It’s very important not to load up your brush with too much paint when you’re edge highlighting; too much paint and the point won’t matter and it’ll go everywhere. Duncan’s old drag and twist method on the palette works pretty well for discarding extra paint and keeping a tip on your brush.
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Jan 21, 2020 22:23
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Admittedly I use a 0 and 00, not 000. But depends upon what you're painting.
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Jan 21, 2020 22:27
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I know it's been mentioned in the thread before, but if you live it Michigan, or even better near Royal Oak, do yourself a favor and go to Michigan Toy Soldier Company. It's on 5th, a few blocks east of Main St. They have practically every single thing you'd ever need for painting minis. Every type of paint, brush, tool etc. Not to mention a poo poo load of stuff for basing. I recently took the wife there to get her some brushes and stuff for her to start her mini painting hobby and ended up buying a bunch of stuff for myself.
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Jan 21, 2020 22:36
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I use a (large) size 2 for edge highlighting when I can get away with it and a 00 when I can't. There's definitely space for both. I think the hardest part is finding the right paint consistency, at least once you've developed good brush control. It needs to flow off the brush well, but still be thick enough to not flow over the miniature at all. Thinning your paint with ink works well, and flow improver can be helpful but finding the right amount is tricky.
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Jan 21, 2020 22:47
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Paint consistency is probably my biggest struggle in learning to paint well. I can watch videos about it all day, but it's still tough to actually get right.
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Jan 21, 2020 23:36
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Funzo posted:Paint consistency is probably my biggest struggle in learning to paint well. I can watch videos about it all day, but it's still tough to actually get right. You can also thin paints down way more than you probably think, even just with water (with Citadel paints, at least.) I decided to really play around with Mephiston Red one night and the best consistency I found for some of the bigger panels on my Kastelan Robots was way thinner than I would have thought I could get away with before I just did it.
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Jan 21, 2020 23:43
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Inspector_666 posted:You can also thin paints down way more than you probably think This is especially true when airbrushing, anything short of primer can be thinned down an almost impossible amount and still perform great. Sure you might need to go over some areas multiple times, but with an airbrush that takes seconds and will allow you to make some fantastically smooth blends.
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Jan 21, 2020 23:50
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It's kind of a no-brainer, but for consistency make sure you're shaking the heck out of your paint. I also like to throw some 1cm chopped sprue in as an agitator.
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Jan 22, 2020 00:19
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moths posted:chopped sprue in as an agitator
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Jan 22, 2020 00:32
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moths posted:It's kind of a no-brainer, but for consistency make sure you're shaking the heck out of your paint. I also like to throw some 1cm chopped sprue in as an agitator. I remember talk of agitators in pots a few years ago in this thread. I never thought about using bits of sprue! Genius.
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Jan 22, 2020 01:57
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Funzo posted:Paint consistency is probably my biggest struggle in learning to paint well. I can watch videos about it all day, but it's still tough to actually get right. That's all down to actual practice, over time your paint consistency will get more and more...well consistent.
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Jan 22, 2020 02:14
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On the subject of paint consistency, I bought some Scale 75 metallics to try as opposed to GW. I really like the color of Dwarven Gold, very good for 2nd company Ultramarines, but I'm having a hell of a time applying it. It feels thick and sticky even after thinning with water, flow improver, acrylic medium. I don't know if I'm just not thinning it enough or what, but if anyone has any tips that'd be great.
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Jan 22, 2020 02:18
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If you can't hack super neat edge highlights, just do what I do and be consistently messy: It's a Locust!
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Jan 22, 2020 02:29
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Finishing question: I made an ocean effect for a base with a blue basecoat, gloss mod podge, and some white drybrushing for the tips of the waves. I usually finish everything with a coat of matte varnish - I'd like to keep some of the glossiness on the waves, will matte on top completely dull the shine, or just dampen it a bit?
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Jan 22, 2020 04:48
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It'll dull it down, but after laying down your matte coat, just go back in with some gloss topcoat and paint a thin glossy sheen on the waves.
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Jan 22, 2020 05:06
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