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I'm looking to up my tool sharpening game, and I'm thinking it might be time for some kind of powered grinder. I currently have a few plates and blocks that I sharpen knives, chisels, etc on. My understanding is that a grinder of some sort is strongly recommended for repairing mucked up edges, are they also useful for general sharpening? I'd also like to move away from cheapest-available drill bits and maybe start sharpening some high quality ones, though the ones I use most frequently are small (3 or 4mm) brad point woodworking bits, which I doubt I'd want to use on a grinder. I do have a dremel, though. If getting a grinder is a good move, would I be looking at wheels? Belts? Would need to be benchtop-sized for space reasons, and it wouldn't be terrible if I could give it double duty for sanding wood, but that's very much a nice-to-have.
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Feb 11, 2020 00:22
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Jaded Burnout posted:I'm looking to up my tool sharpening game, and I'm thinking it might be time for some kind of powered grinder. As a turner I use a bench grinder all the time for sharpening gouges and skews. Rikon 80-805 bench grinder. Cheap and well regarded among wood turners. Cant help you on the drill bits, cheap bits and replacements as I break/loose more than I dull.
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Feb 11, 2020 00:40
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Jaded Burnout posted:I'm looking to up my tool sharpening game, and I'm thinking it might be time for some kind of powered grinder. I buy pretty nice brad point bits for and they are don't usually need much sharpening if you keep them far away from metal and take care with them-they only get used on new work and never go near repair work that might have unseen nails in it. The problem I have with nice small bits is they have a nasty tendency to accidentally get broken before they need sharpening. For non-brad points I just buy cheap black oxide ones and treat them as consumables. This Old Tony has a good video on sharpening drill bits that made me want to experiment though.
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Feb 11, 2020 01:40
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:This Old Tony has a good video on sharpening drill bits that made me want to experiment though. Yeah I rewatched it before asking this question since it's been on my mind. Shame to hear that good quality small bits break too. I have a lot of trouble finding brad bits in specific sizes (like a 3.5mm) without buying a whole set.
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Feb 11, 2020 01:55
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Jaded Burnout posted:Yeah I rewatched it before asking this question since it's been on my mind. Shame to hear that good quality small bits break too. I have a lot of trouble finding brad bits in specific sizes (like a 3.5mm) without buying a whole set. Discovering smaller local suppliers that mostly do business with tradespeople (but are happy to deal with anyone)vs. big box places has been a revelation for me the past year or three. You might pay a little more, but it’s usually for a better product and the advice is free (and usually good)
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Feb 11, 2020 02:26
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sharkytm posted:I've still got the 2x 3Ah Makita 18V batteries that I got as part of a combo kit as a wedding present in 2009. They don't have the capacity they used to, but they still work just fine. If you take care of them, they last a long time. I hate that tool battery chargers don't have any modes on them. It would be nice to have the option to charge my batteries more gently.
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Feb 11, 2020 02:31
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Jaded Burnout posted:I'm looking to up my tool sharpening game, and I'm thinking it might be time for some kind of powered grinder. If its available across the pond, the Drill doctor is supposed to be the poo poo (thats good) for sharpening drill bits. Don't know about the rest of them though.
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Feb 11, 2020 04:11
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On that subject would anyone here recommend against buying a Tormek for woodworking and general edge(kitchen knives, axes etc.) sharpening? I've been doing all my sharpening with sandpaper up till now and was thinking about moving up to diamond stones plus water stones but after looking at the all in price to get setup it doesn't really seem significantly cheaper than a nice power sharpener. I considered the work sharp initially but decided if I was going to spend the money I'd like something more versatile. Seems like you can sharpen just about anything on a Tormek, I was a little concerned about the standard Tormek wheels only going to 1000 grit at first, though that doesn't seem to stop Youtuber's from getting crazy end-grain shaving sharpness.
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Feb 11, 2020 06:10
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Elem7 posted:On that subject would anyone here recommend against buying a Tormek for woodworking and general edge(kitchen knives, axes etc.) sharpening?
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Feb 11, 2020 15:00
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Elem7 posted:On that subject would anyone here recommend against buying a Tormek for woodworking and general edge(kitchen knives, axes etc.) sharpening? Guess it's a matter of budget. They do what they do very well. At quite a premium. Keep in mind, as with most power tools, the sticker cost and the "now it can do everything I need" cost are 2 very different things. The jigs cost quite a bit.
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Feb 11, 2020 17:32
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Good lord they're expensive.
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Feb 11, 2020 17:36
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i have used my KO worksharp for my kitchen knives and cleaning up a scratched up hatchet would recommend for someone like me who didnt want to learn how to use whetstones
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Feb 11, 2020 20:08
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Angry tool rant incoming  Bookmark this video is you own a Bosch 1617! https://youtu.be/ACGuwtfmn_c The switches get filled with dust and the router won’t turn on. It’s a known issue Bosch claims to have fixed with a redesigned switch. I had this problem in one of my routers a few months ago and replaced the switch. Clearly that’s not an effective solution, since I just had to tear both of mine down (one quit a few weeks ago but I didn’t have time to deal with it then) and clean out the switches because they wouldn’t turn in. I don’t think I’m particularly hard on my tools, and any woodworking tool ought to be able to handle some dust without crapping out. Its a great router otherwise, but it’s quite frustrating having to stop in the middle of something to tear down a 2 yr old machine.
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Feb 11, 2020 23:16
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Angry tool rant incoming Phew! 
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Feb 11, 2020 23:30
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Angry tool rant incoming Not going to help you with already broken ones but to prevent it from happening again couldn't you put a rubber switch cover on it?
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Feb 12, 2020 00:27
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JEEVES420 posted:Not going to help you with already broken ones but to prevent it from happening again couldn't you put a rubber switch cover on it? That's my plan. Once I cleaned out the switches they worked fine, luckily. My Porter Cable router has a rubber switch cover over it's rocker switch, almost like they thought this might happen and wanted to prevent it! I'm The older PC routers had a metal toggle switch and nothing ever went wrong with those-I guess plastic rocker switches are cheaper so everyone has switched to them.
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Feb 12, 2020 01:28
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do we have a toolbag/backpack thread yet for those of us who walk around to our work?
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Feb 19, 2020 01:05
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So I need to get a set of sharpening stones and I have no idea what I really need. I've been doing the sandpaper on glass and it works well, but I've gone through a lot of sandpaper on a few restorations and a new cheapo plane that wasn't flat. I sharpen my hand planes and chisels and do the occasional plane sole or other larger metal object. I'd like something that will last a good long while and budget is really whatever the best value is. Would rather something that will be durable and maintain flatness. I'm assuming I want to get diamond plates and my size would need to be around 8"x3". Larger is ok, but that's about the size I'm used to with sandpaper and it seems right. Edit: This seems like a good kit. https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/DMT-8-Dia-Sharp-Diamond-Kit-P405C24.aspx That and EZE Lap seem to be the go to's. I do enough material removal that the 220 makes sense. Bondematt fucked around with this message at 08:04 on Feb 19, 2020 |
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Feb 19, 2020 07:42
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New tool arrived.
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Feb 19, 2020 13:09
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Bondematt posted:So I need to get a set of sharpening stones and I have no idea what I really need. I've been doing the sandpaper on glass and it works well, but I've gone through a lot of sandpaper on a few restorations and a new cheapo plane that wasn't flat.
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Feb 19, 2020 14:28
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Looking at table saw's and this seems a little excessive https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/187693072448927/ I'm not sure what you'd be doing where you need an 8 foot fence but i'm glad you can disassemble it for transport
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Feb 19, 2020 19:51
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coathat posted:Looking at table saw's and this seems a little excessive https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/187693072448927/ 8 foot is for a production shop, pretty much overkill for this thread. That fence looks very similar to my Biesmeyer prototype though, and the guy was from Dallas iirc. Same rosewood ply on the blade side, although I replaced mine. 1100 is a bit steep for an antique Unisaw, imo.
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Feb 20, 2020 19:16
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coathat posted:Looking at table saw's and this seems a little excessive https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/187693072448927/ It looks like it’s in a machine shop too-maybe they use it for cutting plastics or something that comes in longer than 8’ sheets? Sometimes plywood comes in 10’ or 12’ lengths too, but 8’ is still a lot of fence. I’d agree it’s a bit high for a beat up Unisaw
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Feb 20, 2020 20:22
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FYI, some Wera screwdrivers, ratchets, and wrenches are on Amazon's Deal of the Day.
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Feb 21, 2020 15:06
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DrBouvenstein posted:FYI, some Wera screwdrivers, ratchets, and wrenches are on Amazon's Deal of the Day. Came here to post this. I think I remember them being recommended here in the past, is that correct?
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Feb 21, 2020 15:51
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The Wera lasertip screwdrivers are a loving life changer, especially the slotted ones.
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Feb 21, 2020 16:33
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I love Wera hex keys, and that's a hell of a deal on the metric set. But there are a couple provisos: 1. The imperial set doesn't quite come with all the sizes you'd normally expect. The sizes I've needed that it doesn't have are 1/16, 7/64, and 9/64. But the cloth case makes it easy to add some extras, so I just scavenged those sizes from an old Wiha set and threw them in. 2. Because the shafts with their sleeves are bigger than the hex itself, if you need to get into small deep holes it can be challenge, and you might be better off with a more traditional set. 3. The handles do get slippery when covered in oil. They're still totally usable, though. 4. It bugs me that they offer totally different packaging for the metric and imperial sets. They're both nice, and it does help differentiate them, but it's inconsistent. I honestly like the imperial cloth casing more, I wish they used it for both.
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Feb 21, 2020 16:45
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Mr. Mambold posted:1100 is a bit steep for an antique Unisaw, imo. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I’d agree it’s a bit high for a beat up Unisaw Sadly that is a pretty standard price for the Metroplex  Either everyone around here wants to negotiate prices or thinks way to highly of granddad's old craftsman.
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Feb 21, 2020 16:48
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If the insulated set of screwdrivers is cheaper than the non-insulated...is there any reason to get the regular? I guess the only thing I can think is that using the insulated for non-electrical work would increase the odds that they'd get dropped/damaged and the insulation is no good? But that point...they'd just be the same as the regular, non-insulated, set I would have bought anyway? Right? I guess the insulation does slightly increase the diameter of the shaft, so in the case of a recessed screw with a very narrow hole, the insulated driver might not fit, but that's a pretty edge-case scenario...and also, in said scenario, I can use one of the literally dozen other screwdrivers I own. Christ, why am I buying more screwdrivers?! I already have so many! (The reason is so i can have a full set of every tool I'll ever need in every room of the house...and in both vehicles, and in the garage, and then also a couple spares just in case.)
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Feb 21, 2020 17:32
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JEEVES420 posted:Sadly that is a pretty standard price for the Metroplex A lot of them do that on CL and then expect you to bargain. Sidenote- here's the Biesmeyer fence on mine for comparison, the outside still has the original rosewood ply. Mine is a more rational 48" to the right of the blade. 
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Feb 21, 2020 17:52
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DrBouvenstein posted:Christ, why am I buying more screwdrivers?! I already have so many! Because capitalism makes people think they need to buy poo poo when they really don't. I had the same urge
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Feb 21, 2020 18:18
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as a budding woodworking person, i bought a vintage Stanley plane. without researching first. it's a Handyman 1204. is...is it gonna be ok? better than what i'd get at HF?
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Feb 21, 2020 18:44
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I have the precursor to the Wera multicolored metric hex key set (all wera green instead of color coded but physically the same) and it is really nice. I love it, feels great to use.
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Feb 21, 2020 19:18
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drat, those Wera selling out fast...the regular insulated set, the precision sets, and a couple other things are already gone.
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Feb 21, 2020 19:33
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Diamonds are good but expensive, but if they are in the budget go for them and that seems like a great deal on that set. For flattening a plane bottom, coarse sandpaper is still probably going to be your best bet. If you wanted to save some cash, you could probably get away with just a coarse and fine diamond plate and then a hard Arkansas oilstone for final honing. I slightly prefer the edge finishing with an oilstone leaves vs diamonds (feels more polished and a bit smoother) but that's just personal preference, and oilstones do cut substantially slower than diamonds. I've found 2" wide stones work fine instead of the big (much more expensive) 3" ones. If you have a plane iron wider than 2" the 3" might be worth it, but you can also always skew the iron across a narrower stone to make it fit. Ended up going with that diamond set and got a big old roll of 80 grit sandpaper for flattening anything that needs it. Will probably get 150 grit as well. Will see how well the diamond stones last!
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Feb 22, 2020 00:06
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Someone please buy this so I stop thinking about dropping $500 on tools i don't really need https://austin.craigslist.org/tls/d/georgetown-schepach-jointer-planer/7077337928.html
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Feb 23, 2020 22:29
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Speaking of flattening, have a old Stanley jack plane I restored but still need to take care of the sole. What do you guys like to use for a flat surface? Have a roll of sandpaper that will work well, but seems like all the tiles at the store I check aren't really flat. Or does it not really matter and just use something close enough?
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Feb 23, 2020 23:31
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Bob Mundon posted:Speaking of flattening, have a old Stanley jack plane I restored but still need to take care of the sole. What do you guys like to use for a flat surface? Have a roll of sandpaper that will work well, but seems like all the tiles at the store I check aren't really flat. Or does it not really matter and just use something close enough? I have a granite surface plate, they are relatively cheap $30-$50.
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Feb 24, 2020 01:45
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coathat posted:Someone please buy this so I stop thinking about dropping $500 on tools i don't really need https://austin.craigslist.org/tls/d/georgetown-schepach-jointer-planer/7077337928.html I really think you do need it. I typically shy away from shop multi-tools, but that looks to be a quality machine. Just the joiner/planer features alone are easily worth that.
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Feb 24, 2020 01:54
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Anyone have recommendations for some sort of combo mulcher/blower (like this but not this exact model: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006Z63K1O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_02ZuEb54M3VPJ) I have parts of my yard that I can’t really get my mower in to simply mulch up leaves and a decent amount of flower beds that I usually have to take leaves out of and haul them to the garden or down to the street for town pickups. It seems like something that would be super handy (especially with a bag) but I have no idea if they’re any good.
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Feb 24, 2020 04:10
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