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Can anybody recommend a good soldering iron for working with brass tubing and sheet?
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Feb 10, 2020 21:02
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| # ? Apr 29, 2024 04:06 |
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If your only going to solder once in a blue moon, you can get away with a micro torch lighter. If you're going to do a bit more, get a self contained Weller soldering iron. And if you're going to do a lot, get a nice Weller with a base station and variable temp control.
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Feb 10, 2020 22:10
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Thanks! Its to replace the finally knackered unbranded one I've had for years, which wasn't so great to begin with. I do the occasional soldering of electronic components (Maybe once a month or so) but something I'm working on now involves brass, and I'd quite like to use it more once this project is done.
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Feb 10, 2020 23:11
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I just got my first bottle of Vallejo chipping fluid. Can anyone recommend thinning ratios, thinner, and/or application tips? I'm thinking 1:1 with Vallejo airbrush thinner and two light coats. Am I on point?
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Feb 11, 2020 00:02
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I usually drybrush it on the areas I want to chip.
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Feb 11, 2020 00:28
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It's pretty thin already, I just spray it out at high psi (30-40 maybe) The thicker it goes on the easier and bigger chips you will get.
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Feb 11, 2020 05:31
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How do I do a whitewash effect on a tank that looks like whitewash, and not just loving up a white paint job?
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Feb 11, 2020 18:36
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Gewehr 43 posted:I just got my first bottle of Vallejo chipping fluid. Can anyone recommend thinning ratios, thinner, and/or application tips? I'm thinking 1:1 with Vallejo airbrush thinner and two light coats. Am I on point? I thin it with tap water, to a bit thicker than I normally do paint. It seems to work ok but I don't go the full chipping route that often. grassy gnoll posted:How do I do a whitewash effect on a tank that looks like whitewash, and not just loving up a white paint job? What I've done in the past is do a full coat of chipping solution, do a coat of white, then rub the thing with, like, damp cotton balls.
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Feb 11, 2020 18:57
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grassy gnoll posted:How do I do a whitewash effect on a tank that looks like whitewash, and not just loving up a white paint job? could go for the real thing and give grinding up chalk and making a paste with water a try
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Feb 11, 2020 19:09
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grassy gnoll posted:How do I do a whitewash effect on a tank that looks like whitewash, and not just loving up a white paint job? This guy does great work. https://youtu.be/S2ewAO1OFD0
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Feb 11, 2020 19:17
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I may end up going the chipping solution route, butRaskolnikov38 posted:could go for the real thing and give grinding up chalk and making a paste with water a try this had the air of just crazy enough to work. I think the texture's neat, but I'm not totally sure about the application. It needs to be pasty to keep that texture, but right now it looks exactly like I dabbed it on with a number 2 brush. I'm all ears for suggestions, though. 
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Feb 11, 2020 22:46
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that looks fairly spot on to me. soldiers usually applied white wash with a mop which is really just a really big paintbrush if you think about it. maybe a little more water so it spreads out more evenly
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Feb 11, 2020 22:50
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Lucky for you, the Padikovo tank museum is painting its T-26 in winter camo right now using the historically appropriate method, so just make it look like this. https://www.facebook.com/padikovo/photos/pcb.836172323512950/836171890179660/?type=3&theater 
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Feb 12, 2020 06:37
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Oscar Romeo Romeo posted:Can anybody recommend a good soldering iron for working with brass tubing and sheet? Depending on how much you plan to be doing, and how heavy gauge the stock will be you might want to consider a resistance soldering unit. They're expensive, though you can often find deals on Ebay for used ones. American Beauty and Hottip are the two brands to look for. The advantage is they generate heat in a very small area very quickly allowing you to almost instantly (3-5 seconds) flow solder on heavy gauge stock without desoldering other items nearby. I bought one for use on brass locomotive models and it's game-changing. Another thing to be aware of is rosin flux doesn't work nearly as well on brass as acid based flux. The downside is you need to ensure you get rid of all of the flux after you solder to prevent future corrosion.
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Feb 12, 2020 18:07
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Ok maybe next time I'm gonna make a note of what oils I use for wood grain. Didnt think the contrast was gonna be this stark lmao  
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Feb 14, 2020 08:31
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Catte-crew, assemble!   That was simultaneously super fiddly and great fun. Next up is: 
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Feb 16, 2020 10:33
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Kurvi Tasch posted:... But it doesn't have any cats?!?
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Feb 16, 2020 11:36
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Kurvi Tasch posted:Catte-crew, assemble! Thats some sweet air crew kitties.
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Feb 16, 2020 17:43
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Kurvi Tasch posted:Catte-crew, assemble!  I've been staring at this tester for too long. Airbrush and chipping fluid:  Whitewash and sponge chipping:  Make decisions for me, internet.
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Feb 16, 2020 20:24
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I think the whitewash side looks better, but both sides look way too beaten up to belong to a real tank. I think the rust is way too excessive.
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Feb 16, 2020 21:47
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So I've made a bit of progress on my HO scale Virginian 2-10-10-2. As made (in 1979) it used terrible rubber hoses to transfer power between the motor and gearboxes. I replaced them with delrin universal joints which greatly improves reliability and torque transfer with the downside of being a bit noisier. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ndd6zKy24NU I have since soldered a couple brass spacers around the rear gearbox to prevent it from moving as much which has cut down on the noise and made it run slightly smoother. Another issue with the locomotive was it had no mechanism to transfer weight to the front engine from the boiler. This meant the front engine contributed very little pulling force and tracked poorly. I remedied this by fabricating a sprung arm with a sliding pad to interface with the underside of the boiler and pick up some weight. You can see it behind the 3rd driver of the front engine in both video clips. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=26MA45SrALs I had to add about 30 oz of weight to the locomotive to get it to run right here because I used a heavy duty spring. I intend to add about 40 oz of tungsten to the boiler to make the locomotive pull heavy trains up our model railroad club's steepest mainline grade of 2.2%. Disgruntled Bovine fucked around with this message at 06:09 on Feb 17, 2020 |
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Feb 17, 2020 05:44
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The hoarders hovel of a modelling shop that I've been going to has decided to clear out their stock I'm guess in preparation for retirement. This month they're doing 15% off everything and I'm hoping that next month will be 20% off. I've got a few car kits that I'd really like to get my hands on in particular a 300SL Jag MarkII and a Porsche 956C. They're the best hobby shop I have easy access to in Sydney because the only onther one that's on the way home is mainly RC focussed and Japan now tacks 10% tax onto everything heading to Australia which has made it more expensive to buy a kit from Japan and import it than it was to buy it here in the first place. It'll be a shame if the shop does close because they have a factory unit that's crammed from floor to ceiling with both recent and very old kits of various sorts including piles of 1/700 scale ships along with all of their car kits.
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Feb 17, 2020 08:48
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It's not a Japan thing, it's a loving AU government thing. It can be avoided if you can find an overseas website small enough that it hasn't gotten caught up in AU legislation. So far they haven't gotten anal enough to have customs screen stuff to see if GST has been paid or is payable, at least in my own experience. So far.
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Feb 17, 2020 10:27
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Carth Dookie posted:It's not a Japan thing, it's a loving AU government thing. It can be avoided if you can find an overseas website small enough that it hasn't gotten caught up in AU legislation. So far they haven't gotten anal enough to have customs screen stuff to see if GST has been paid or is payable, at least in my own experience. So far. I'm aware its the dickheads in power forcing things. Most of what I want to get though is easiest to get through 1999.co which kinda sucks. I'll attempt to build my stash of kits from the guys closest to school while they're still operating before I wnd up with no easily accesible hobby shops that do plastic kits.
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Feb 17, 2020 10:30
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I hear you. I try to buy local and have no problem paying GST on stuff I buy locally, or at least within Australia. However, it grinds my gears that I can buy art supplies from loving Sweden of greater variety and quality than anything I can buy in AU and have it be cheaper, despite shipping costs, even if you find the same stuff here and GST didn't apply. Tldr protectionism of local industry is ineffective and the blatant cash grabbing of taxing overseas purchases can get hosed especially since the funds aren't used effectively to the benefit of all. And that's enough of that because im not in Auspol.
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Feb 17, 2020 10:38
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Carth Dookie posted:I hear you. I'm honestly grateful for what is available in Australia but I'm kicking myself that I didn't get Zero Paints mann filter yellow paint when BNA had it in stock cause I'd love one for my AMG build but it's on hold till they maybe get it back in stock at some point in the future.
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Feb 17, 2020 11:02
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grassy gnoll posted:
Whitewash. I'd go heavier on the scraping and lessen the rust. The reds really jump out against the whitewash contrast. There's a VFW post near me with an M4 hanging out front. It's parked along side a highway that gets salt applied for roughly half the year. It's been there since I was a kid and has an order of magnitude less rust than a lot of professional scale modelers like to use.  Unless that tank fought on the Great Salt Lake Front... It looks cool and all, but even the pictures of Sherman tanks dredged up north of Murmansk have less rust than that.
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Feb 17, 2020 14:03
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Hah, that's "dirt." Vallejo brown earth is actually a vibrant orange. Between that and getting lazy with some brown wash, it does totally look like rust, though. I'm definitely going to stick with black pin washing on the real deal. The running gear and tracks are going to be some of the last things to rust on a tank anyway, aren't they? Tons of friction and moving parts, I figure it'd knock any kind of incipient rust growth off in a hurry.
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Feb 17, 2020 14:49
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Any tank being used on the American side in winter of 1944 would have no more than six months use and they were painted first.
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Feb 17, 2020 15:14
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I keep buying no-scale cute tanks and planes, so it was inevitable I'd end up with some duplicates. This time, it's KV-2s. Meng's World War Toons series are kind of the default line in the field of egg tanks. With the exception of their Sherman, their WWT models are pretty sharply cast, full of detail, and fit together nicely. They're ostensibly click-fit, but you really want to use some glue to keep the whole thing together. Vinyl tracks are standard, which is kind of a shame. The odd part is that there are polycaps included so that you can let the larger wheels spin, but there are still fixed road wheels on each model, so I'm not really sure why they decided to go that way. All told, they're straight-forward to assemble, they've got good molding, and you can slap one together in an hour or so.  AFV club is one of the also-ran companies in the egg tank field. Their Q series is mostly composed of F-104s in competition with the Hasegawa egg plane line, but they put out at least two tanks - this KV-2 and a Pz IV. The AFV Club version is interesting mostly for the stuff around it, rather than the model itself. As a generality, it's a lot less detailed than the Meng version. But I suspect that's intentional, since it's way better at being a toy and an easy-to-assemble kit. The AFV Club model has much smarter gating, so you're clipping parts off where they'll never be seen once assembly is complete. Their casting uses thinner plastic, but it's a lot sturdier-feeling than the Meng tank, since important components are cast in one piece and you're having to do a hell of a lot less seam filling. Pieces that can get away with getting cast in one piece are, rather than giving you tedious tasks for the sake of inflating part count on the Meng model. AFV Club's KV-2 is also better at just being a toy. There's a lot of care put into making this thing that's just in a different functional paradigm than the Meng tank. Proportions are bent and warped intentionally, so the tank looks more like a cartoon. The turret comes with a set of adapters, so you can either pop off the hatch and put some common figure types into the commander's cupola (Nendoroids, stuff like that), or you can pull the whole thing off and attach a Gundam waist to the hull - it'll still articulate a little, so you can give your favorite Leo tank legs. There's even a flywheel kit, so you can rev the thing up and turn it loose to scoot along the floor. They also totally built this thing because they played a lot of World of Tanks.  Included on the funny-parts sprue is an incense burner, because memes are everywhere. The whole thing's pretty charming. My biggest complaint is that the included decals are awfully tame for the kind of silliness the kit is otherwise pushing, and they're kind of floppy.  You may have figured out why I've been trying out whitewashing techniques by now. I think I got an interesting mottling going, but it's not as vibrant as my tester. Kinda ambivalent about the whole thing, but I've got more things to paint up this way, so at least it's practice.     I apologize for the crimes I committed against the Russian language.
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Feb 19, 2020 16:15
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The blurb is wrong, the tank at Raseiniai was a KV-1, not a KV-2. I love the inscription, and it's almost correct, but турель is a turret on an airplane, a turret on a tank is башня, in this case conjugated as башне.
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Feb 19, 2020 17:27
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My friendly local hobby shop is closing down by the end of April and I hate to talk about being a vulture and picking through their clearance, but it seems like as good as a time as any to actually pick up some models on the cheap and get some scale modeling chops (I mostly do gunpla and tabletop mini painting, but have an interest in scale modeling too, but that's a lot of irons to have in the fire at once) Hopefully I can stock up on paints and stuff too because they were the only local place that sold Tamiya stuff.
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Feb 19, 2020 17:36
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(xposting in miniatures painting) so my badger patriot crapped out--unscrewing a couple of the bits for cleaning, i somehow managed to strip some pretty critical threads. i definitely need to replace it, but was wondering if there are any other options out there. despite trying to take intense care of it, it only took a little over a year for it to start sputtering back and threads to start getting stripped. anyone have recs for any other brands/models? did i just get a junk unit?
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Feb 19, 2020 22:49
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Ensign Expendable posted:The blurb is wrong, the tank at Raseiniai was a KV-1, not a KV-2. I love the inscription, and it's almost correct, but турель is a turret on an airplane, a turret on a tank is башня, in this case conjugated as башне. I speak as much Russian as bad 80's action films can teach me, so I'm pretty happy that Google got me that close.  SEX HAVER 40000 posted:(xposting in miniatures painting) So, first thing to do would be to contact Badger, since they'll repair the thing for free or quite cheap. Second is that Badgers are pretty hard to kill, which is why they're recommended a lot. What was your cleaning regimen like? Buying a different brand isn't going to do you much good if the same thing that ate your first one keeps happening. Any kind of abrasive cleaning, or any cleaning agents that might eat the seals?
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Feb 19, 2020 23:48
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Disgruntled Bovine posted:So I've made a bit of progress on my HO scale Virginian 2-10-10-2. As made (in 1979) it used terrible rubber hoses to transfer power between the motor and gearboxes. I replaced them with delrin universal joints which greatly improves reliability and torque transfer with the downside of being a bit noisier. I have always loved scale locomotives, but this one is especially beautiful. Is the intention to keep it in its natural brass finish?
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Feb 19, 2020 23:56
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grassy gnoll posted:So, first thing to do would be to contact Badger, since they'll repair the thing for free or quite cheap. Second is that Badgers are pretty hard to kill, which is why they're recommended a lot. What was your cleaning regimen like? Buying a different brand isn't going to do you much good if the same thing that ate your first one keeps happening. Any kind of abrasive cleaning, or any cleaning agents that might eat the seals? yeah, i'll try contacting them, i guess. i definitely gave it a few baths to loosen up some nasty enamels and such (after removing all o-rings i could see), which may have been the cause of the seal issues, but for most of the cleaning i've been using tamiya cotton swabs instead of those harsher pipe-cleaner type fellas. the seals are only part of the problem--the threads stripping out surprised me because i wasn't torquing on them that hard, but i guess a dumbass can break anything if theyre trying hard enough
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Feb 20, 2020 00:49
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Fearless posted:I have always loved scale locomotives, but this one is especially beautiful. Is the intention to keep it in its natural brass finish? No, a lot of people do so but I intend to paint and weather it. I'm just trying to get the mechanics of it sorted out properly first as I'm likely to damage the paint job if I try to do so after it is complete.
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Feb 20, 2020 05:37
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Disgruntled Bovine posted:No, a lot of people do so but I intend to paint and weather it. I'm just trying to get the mechanics of it sorted out properly first as I'm likely to damage the paint job if I try to do so after it is complete. I think the heft of the model's materials would add a lot to the beauty of the locomotive once it is painted and weathered. Looking forward to see what you do with it.
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Feb 20, 2020 06:12
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Fearless posted:I think the heft of the model's materials would add a lot to the beauty of the locomotive once it is painted and weathered. Looking forward to see what you do with it. There is something to be said for brass as a material in part because it allows for sharper fine details than plastic or die cast. It's also quite durable allowing for handling with less risk of breaking small details. Obviously the counterpoint to that is the cost since the models have to be soldered together by hand. Generally speaking they're very limited runs, only 200 were made of this particular model.
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Feb 21, 2020 18:36
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Picked up a couple of new kits yesterday both of them porsches. One is another 934, this time a vaillant teal green one which will go with my jagermiester one when the decals finally arrive from Japan. The other is a 956 kit that must be straight from Japan as the instructions are entirely in Japanese but I've already sorted out translated ones. I'll need replacemtn decals as the ones in the box are super yellow and not really useable. The plan is to do it in a similar way to the Jaguar and Mercedes group C cars that I've already finished so as much engine detail as I can manage to fit into it.
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Feb 22, 2020 04:14
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