|
I bought a house with a dual shower head setup. One of the shower heads is significantly stronger in pressure than the other. Ive also noticed that when I shut off the water the lower pressure shower head waits a few second and then empties its pipes into the shower. I can also cap one of the shower heads and improve the pressure on the other. This leads me to believe they are coming from the same supply. Ive got a few questions: 1) Is this something that could be attributed to the cartridge in the shower? 2) Is it likely the plumber that installed it screwed up the pipes somehow (valve or something?) and ill need to knock out the tiling to get to it? 3) Could this be a build up of deposits that I could clean out somehow? I definitely have hard water going to my shower as I have calcium deposits showing up on the tile floor.
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2020 03:40
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 09:29 |
|
|
You can restrict the higher-pressure shower head to cause some of that pressure to go to the other shower head, but short of running a larger diameter pipe from further upstream in your plumbing, you're probably just going to have to learn to live with it. To specifically answer your questions: 1) Probably not unless the total pressure coming out of both shower heads is not similar to the water pressure in other bathrooms. 2) I doubt anything is "screwed up". The plumber probably ran 1/2" pipe to the shower and that's feeding both shower heads. If your water pressure isn't high enough, or that 1/2" run is a branch from another run off the main water line, that might be the issue. 3) Definitely not build up in the pipes. You can unscrew the shower head and see if the water comes out any faster. If it does, your showerhead nozzles may be clogged with calcium. FWIW I have super hard water and the build up I get does not limit my water pressure. Did you check that the plumbing fixtures worked during your inspection of the house? Did they work at that time and this is a recent issue? SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 04:58 on Feb 10, 2020 |
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2020 04:52
|
|
|
SpartanIvy posted:Did you check that the plumbing fixtures worked during your inspection of the house? Did they work at that time and this is a recent issue? Unfortunately my level of "checking they worked" was that the shower was functional. We paid a fair amount of an inspector to come through and check everything but he wrote a caveat that he was not an electrician/plumber/sewage expert and to get each inspected by an expert on each. I didnt do that so there isnt much recourse there. Id also like to point out that there is a tub in the master bath that has significantly stronger throughput. We have 2 50 gal hot water heaters and I can only assume each one has different piping. schreibs fucked around with this message at 06:05 on Feb 10, 2020 |
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2020 06:02
|
|
|
schreibs posted:Unfortunately my level of "checking they worked" was that the shower was functional. We paid a fair amount of an inspector to come through and check everything but he wrote a caveat that he was not an electrician/plumber/sewage expert and to get each inspected by an expert on each. Depending on how it's piped, you might be able to add a loopback line between the shower heads and balance the flow a bit. Right now, one line is likely feeding on head, then continuing to the other. The first is being fed higher pressure and flow. If you loop the second head back to the same feed as the first, they'll both see the same pressure/flow.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2020 14:55
|
|
|
SpartanIvy posted:
I can't speak to showers, but hard water build up did limit the water pressure my mother got to her kitchen sink faucet. When we took apart the pipes to replace it (we thought the faucet was bad) we found the pipe was 90% blocked with calcium/lime deposits.
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2020 23:31
|
|
|
Have you unscrewed and switched the shower heads to see if it changes the pressure dynamic? Also, soaking the shower heads in CLR or vinegar will dissolve calcium buildup. Some of the newer shower heads have lots of tiny rubber nozzles at the shower head--they are designed for you to every once in a while run your fingers across them while taking a shower to clean out the buildup.
|
|
#
?
Feb 11, 2020 08:33
|
|
|
My showerhead was dripping, so I got one of those replacement washer kits. The stems were pretty beat up and the washers didn't fix it so I replaced the faucets. I got the handles set, everything taped up and not leaking, but the showerhead is still dripping. I know I got the right replacement parts, because they're the exact same as what was in there. I'm going to replace the showerhead too, but I don't expect that to help. Any ideas what it could be? If it helps I have a neutralizer for acidic water.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2020 04:12
|
|
|
HycoCam posted:Have you unscrewed and switched the shower heads to see if it changes the pressure dynamic? Also, soaking the shower heads in CLR or vinegar will dissolve calcium buildup. Some of the newer shower heads have lots of tiny rubber nozzles at the shower head--they are designed for you to every once in a while run your fingers across them while taking a shower to clean out the buildup. Yes did CLR on both and swapped the heads but they pressure stayed the same from each pipe and didn't follow the shower head if that makes sense. The tile is only 8 years old and in great shape so I would rather not rip it out to add in the loopback as suggested. Ill give the flow restriction a shot though as that seems like a fairly easy way of balancing the pressure between the two. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2020 04:21
|
|
|
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DANCO-Shower-Volume-Control-Valve-in-Chrome-80782X/204150964 The valve you want should be easy to find at Lowes or Home Depot and be less than $5.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2020 06:11
|
|
|
Can anyone recommend a leak detection water shutoff valve for a washer? My washer/dryer is upstairs so I'd rather not have an incident and the shutoffs I'm finding on Amazon look like pieces of poo poo.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2020 18:47
|
|
|
Cross post from fix it fast: Dealing with my shower leak issue finally. Started cutting the old silicone away, and decided the best way to really get it out involved pulling the whole door track and ends and everything. Which revealed the edge of the tile and its backer and everything. Appears to be backed with a couple sheets of visqueen or similar. Is that appropriate? I would have expected something better/more robust. It’s hard to get pics but based on these pics, is there any chance this shower is built correctly and not loving my poo poo continuously? Edge of tile hanging off the end of the cement backer, studs behind, a bit of plastic:  Another view of the same with the plastic folded over for visibility:  Closer view of a bit of the end of the tile and what lies behind:  e: poo poo. This has likely been going on for a decade before we even bought the house. From what I can tell, the ceiling damage in the kitchen is from the water leaking at this corner, settling on the subfloor, and running across that to the other end of the shower and then down to the kitchen. We only noticed it in the kitchen because my daughter plays in the shower long enough to get the water all the way over there, but even on a normal shower it’s definitely been pooling up under the floor here.  The osb directly on the studs there is totally black, but I can only jab a flat driver into it like 1/8”. I’m going to cut that bit of drywall out there to have a look inside, although the framing will block any view of the subfloor still. e: Inside the wall:  And the little drop in there was full of this in a sort of semi-cakey grainy dust stuff, is it just rotted wood or am I looking at an insect problem or what? 
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Feb 17, 2020 |
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2020 20:28
|
|
|
I've bought a house, and it has an old (13+) hot water tank. My insurance requires it to be replaced, which is fine, but I'm looking at some different options. The existing unit is a 40gal gas heater with passive exhaust on the same chimney as the furnace. I don't want to replace it with a tank that requires active exhaust, as that would mean a new horizontal exhaust line would be required. So my options seem to be mid efficient, 55-65% or so. I'd like to put in a larger tank, as the house has a rental suite, and I think 40 gal is pretty small for my family, plus 1 or 2 adults in the suite. I've seen a 50 gal rheem unit with an automatic damper on the exhaust that claims 65% efficient, and it's $200 more than the equivalent undamped unit at 58% efficient. I guess first question, assuming installation costs all being equal, is there somewhere I can punch in purchase price, btu rating, tank volume, average usage, and somehow compare my options (and compare against electric units as well)? I want to see if it's worth the extra couple hundred up front over the life span. At this point, I'm assuming we'll be in the house 20+ years. Second question, if a gas fitter is required to do the install, will I save much by hauling out the old tank and getting the new one in place, or will the guy just turn the job down at that point because it's not worth his time to come out? Lastly, am I better off looking at the units available at home depot and the like, or will the contractor have access to better stuff through wholesale?
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2020 00:06
|
|
|
Electric vs gas: electric will generally cost more over time and take longer to reheat the water. Plumbers can fit your gas pipes. Do yourself a favor and unless they are going to charge you over $200 don't haul it out. Even drained there's sediment etc in there and it'll suuuck. Let someone with the tools to get it out While we are on the subject of water heaters and venting I'm buying a house and the furnace is old as poo poo. We will be going to a 95% efficient one so it'll vent outside with pvc instead of the chimney. (Water heater has like an 8 ft run to the chimney) Should I plan on going direct vent for my water heater at the time of furnace replacement or will I not die if I wait a bit of time to replace it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2020 13:33
|
|
|
tater_salad posted:... If your water heater is working fine and the venting is fit & properly secured, sealed & pitched upwards to the chimney flue, you are fine. Just be sure to cap the opening where the furnace flue entered it. I went with a power vent when I had a $4000 estimate to rebuild & re-line my chimney. I used that money to replace the furnace, add air conditioning, and install a power vent water heater after my electric unit died. Electric costs a fortune here in NJ (especially with a teenager who likes to sleep in the sauna/shower he creates) so going to high-efficiency gas was a no-brainer. Running 2.5" PVC venting was no problem either. Be mindful that most codes require it to exit the structure at least six feet away from a door or window PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 15:50 on Feb 18, 2020 |
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2020 15:48
|
|
|
Thanks for the heads up on the 6ft rule. I'll have to keep that in mind. It may be a bit difficult to get that done, the house has a ton of windows. Id also prefer not to spend money on getting the chimney lined.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2020 16:07
|
|
|
Is this the right thread for baby's first drip irrigation install?
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2020 00:48
|
|
|
A water issue, not sure it's plumbing exactly. Having a leak from the shower into the basement. It's not from any of the piping, and looks like it's only when someone is in the shower. There is some cracked grout that it looks like could be letting splashed water into the wall space (I think it should probably be caulk to begin). How expensive would it be to have someone remove the existing grout and caulk it with flexible caulk? Is this something I could realistically do myself? How long would it take? This is the only shower we have.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2020 02:41
|
|
|
Tape up plastic sheeting on the shower walls to give the leak area a fighting chance of drying out. Yes, it's inconvenient & the plastic can stick to you, but if it's the only shower that you have, it's either that or no one showers for at least 48-hours. You can buy a grout chaser for less than $10, and grout mix for about the same or less. You will also need a grout float and at least one sponge (they're big & yellow). Thirty to 40-dollars tops. You can buy pre-mixed grout, but it costs more. There are also power tools for removing grout, but, unless you intend to do the whole thing, a hand chaser should suffice. You may be able to find pre-mix in a caulk gun. You want to use the chaser to remove as much grout as possible from the low areas you find. Go back & forth with a smooth motion, applying light to moderate pressure. The grout will come out like sand. When you've gone nearly the thickness of the tile & you've exposed every opening, then: - wipe the repair area down with alcohol to insure there's no moisture, and to promote adhesion. - fill a bucket with clean warm water (so as not to chill your hands) and throw the sponge in. Mix up the grout per the instructions on the carton, in a container wide enough to easily accomodate the narrow end of the float, as you'll be scooping up grout with it. Wet the float & shake loose water off. Scoop up grout & basically mash it into the gaps. It's a bit messy. Once grout is worked into the gaps, drag the float across the gaps at a 45-degree angle to the gaps, and squeegee off the excess grout. Clean the float in the bucket after each pass. Part 1 is done. Let the grout sit for a long as the instructions say (an hour, maybe longer). There will be grout swipes on the tile, which will dry into a haze. Do not be alarmed. At the end of the alotted time, get your bucket & sponge; pull the sponge and squeeze out excess water. Using broad, sweeping strokes, sponge over the new grout, one side of the sponge for each pass...so wipe (flip) wipe; then, rinse the sponge out in the water & repeat. Keep going until the grout 'recedes' into the gaps until you can see the shoulder of the tile / until the depth matches the surrounding grout . This should also remove most if not all of the 'haze' on the tile. Let it set for as close to 24-hours as you or the family can stand. If that is not possible, put the plastic sheeting back up. -or- Find a contractor to do it for at least $300. It's a lovely job to grout a shower enclosure - repairs somewhat less so, simply because of the smaller scope - unless you are a pro, you won't be lifting your arms very high for a couple days afterwards. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:25 on Feb 20, 2020 |
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2020 03:20
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:Tape up plastic sheeting on the shower walls to give the leak area a fighting chance of drying out. Yes, it's inconvenient & the plastic can stick to you, but if it's the only shower that you have, it's either that or no one showers for at least 48-hours. The only spots with cracked grout are where two planes meet - corners of the shower, where the tub meets the wall - should the grout there be replaced with caulk?
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2020 03:27
|
|
|
The Slack Lagoon posted:The only spots with cracked grout are where two planes meet - corners of the shower, where the tub meets the wall - should the grout there be replaced with caulk? Yes. They sell color-matching sanded/unsanded caulk specifically for this purpose. Changes in plane will almost always crack due to expansion/contraction or movement due to weight. Grout almost never holds up for long in those spots.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2020 03:35
|
|
|
You can grout it, then put a skim-coat of caulk over it to protect the inevitable cracking. or Yes, you can caulk it up. Just more of a pain to dig it out when the seal lets go & it turns black behind it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2020 04:06
|
|
|
Faustian Bargain posted:Is this the right thread for baby's first drip irrigation install? Probably not. We do have 2 gardening threads here in DIY. Try the vegetable gardening one.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2020 17:16
|
|
|
I know I'm probably too late for this but you want a slip joint tee, not a wye. We don't use ABS piping around these parts, but I am sure they make a comparable one like below for you. 
|
|
#
?
Feb 21, 2020 00:21
|
|
|
am i losing my mind or is it truly possible that whoever installed the bathroom in our house did so without putting in a single supply valve to the tub faucet?? our delta 1400 series tub faucet is leaking and i could fix the motherfucker if i could find the supply valves, but i can't find a single one behind the wall or in the basement 
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2020 23:51
|
|
|
scuz posted:am i losing my mind or is it truly possible that whoever installed the bathroom in our house did so without putting in a single supply valve to the tub faucet?? our delta 1400 series tub faucet is leaking and i could fix the motherfucker if i could find the supply valves, but i can't find a single one behind the wall or in the basement Neither of my tubs have them. I turn off water to the whole house when I change cartridges. It’s a mild inconvenience. I suspect having them on soldered-in fixtures would be more rare than not.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2020 00:02
|
|
|
My bathroom didn't have them either. When I had my plumbing replaced I added in some additional valves so that I can turn off parts of the house for repairs if need be. I had a pipe rupture and since there was no way to isolate it before. I had to live in a house without running water for a week until the plumber could come.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2020 00:24
|
|
|
eddiewalker posted:Neither of my tubs have them. I turn off water to the whole house when I change cartridges. It’s a mild inconvenience. The hot water heater doesn't have a valve anywhere except for the cold side/inlet. If I turn off the main water supply to the house and turn the cold side water to the water heater, will that keep the hot water from flowing OUT of the heater? This is obviously my first time doing any of this.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2020 00:24
|
|
|
scuz posted:Yeah this is the answer I've arrived at but have one wee question: The one main cold shutoff will shut off everything. Your hot water is pressurized by the city supply too. Opening a basement sink will drain the upper lines.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2020 00:28
|
|
|
Shutting the inlet valve on the water heater should keep any hot water from coming out because there is no pressure on it without cold water being able to enter. If you turn the water for the house off the same will be true. Without any water pressure, the water more-or-less stays where it is. If you want to play it extra safe, as I always do, turn off the water heater and run the hot water tap for a while to bring in cold water and lower the temperature in your hot water tank before cutting your water at the street. That way if something goes wrong you're only wet and don't have third degree burns.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2020 00:29
|
|
|
Just turning off the main supply is sufficient.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2020 00:29
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Just turning off the main supply is sufficient. SpartanIvy posted:Shutting the inlet valve on the water heater should keep any hot water from coming out because there is no pressure on it without cold water being able to enter. If you turn the water for the house off the same will be true. Without any water pressure, the water more-or-less stays where it is. If you want to play it extra safe, as I always do, turn off the water heater and run the hot water tap for a while to bring in cold water and lower the temperature in your hot water tank before cutting your water at the street. That way if something goes wrong you're only wet and don't have third degree burns. eddiewalker posted:The one main cold shutoff will shut off everything. Your hot water is pressurized by the city supply too. That is all awesome news, I will report back when the parts arrive and I can do the darn thing. Thanks much!
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2020 00:36
|
|
|
Apologies if this doesn’t QUITE belong here... but I haven’t been able to get an answer from anywhere else: So I think I hosed up my shower rebuild a bit... was planning to build in one of those hidden drains, but didn’t account for it when pouring the concrete for the pan. What options do I have that don’t involve pouring another layer of concrete? Could I just slap a strainer on the drain hole in place now and cal it good if I wanted? Is there a really thick tile I could use that would come up level with the drain we wanted to use? https://imgur.com/a/xz30iuq
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2020 01:17
|
|
|
Gin_Rummy posted:Apologies if this doesn’t QUITE belong here... but I haven’t been able to get an answer from anywhere else: Do you have enough room to get one of these in? https://www.wedishowersystems.com/ready-tile-shower-pans/
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2020 02:07
|
|
|
devicenull posted:Do you have enough room to get one of these in? https://www.wedishowersystems.com/ready-tile-shower-pans/ Probably, but that also seems like it would end up being much more expensive than just pouring an extra layer, tbh.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2020 02:14
|
|
|
Gin_Rummy posted:Apologies if this doesn’t QUITE belong here... but I haven’t been able to get an answer from anywhere else: Is there a membrane under the concrete? How thick is the concrete?
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2020 03:01
|
|
|
Yes, I have a plastic membrane underneath... I’d estimate this pan is at least a few inches thick, but it’s honestly been a while since I did the pour, so I can’t remember for sure.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2020 03:32
|
|
|
Hopefully simple question here, I need to replace my hot water heater (it's getting on 15 years old and isn't working as well as it used to), and while the on/out lines are flexible the pressure relief (I think) line is hard PVC. Do I need to try to find something else exactly the same size, replace it with new PVC, or can I use some sort of flex line there?
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2020 04:14
|
|
|
It's a relief valve, and in my neck of the woods, they basically drain into a vertical pipe that ends 6" off the floor. Are you in a condo or something? Does the bottom of the water heater has a pan that connects to a hard drain pipe? Because that's where the water is likely to come from. You can cut and join it back together if your heater is the same size. Or use this premade one https://www.homedepot.com/p/3-4-in-NPT-x-60-in-Polypropylene-Center-Top-Mount-Drain-Tube-for-Tank-Type-Water-Heaters-EB11956B/204834466
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2020 04:39
|
|
|
Nitrox posted:It's a relief valve, and in my neck of the woods, they basically drain into a vertical pipe that ends 6" off the floor. Are you in a condo or something? Does the bottom of the water heater has a pan that connects to a hard drain pipe? Because that's where the water is likely to come from. I am in a condo, the pan on the floor is the exact size of the heater with no drain, sitting on carpet (yes this is dumb, no I don't think I have a way to make it better). I'm assuming this pvc pipe drains to the outside somewhere.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2020 04:44
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 09:29 |
|
|
Hahaha, that is some stupid poo poo. That pan supposed to have a hole, and from that hole a PVC pipe should be going to a drain in the wall, much like the one in the picture you posted. The relief valve should be positioned to drain into the pan. When the water heater starts leaking, that water runs down, and the pan is there to catch it. If a drain connection is not an option for some reason, you still use a pan with the moisture sensing alarm inside. Make sure you hire a licensed plumber, not some guy with tools. Their liability insurance is really important when you live in the condo building.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2020 04:51
|
|