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Thanks for the responses. I've got an old GTX 970 that still works, so I'll buy all the other stuff (CPU, board, etc) and assemble it with the 970 and just wait for the new line of 30xx cards to swap it out. And yeah, I really don't intend to overclock unless games really start to outpace my upgraded hardware. DDR4-3200/3600 it is, then.
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Mar 10, 2020 22:37
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Country: US Use: Gaming, the occasional foray into virtual machines Budget: Below $900 Resolution: 1920x1080, no big deal. My current setup is getting pretty long in the tooth. CPU: Intel Core i5 2500k Memory: 16 GB Graphics Card: NV 1060 6GB Storage: 1xSSD 2x HDD Is a high end i5 still a good pick over an i7 or has that changed and I should try to get an i7? Any Mobo makers to avoid? I'm looking to get a motherboard that ideally has a bluetooth module in it and like 6 SATA ports, and more is always better on USB ports. I have a spare m.2 drive I could install as well. Probably the most high end games I play are DCS World, the upcoming Flight Simulator most likely, and Arma 3. I just got the new Call of Duty today so we'll see how that goes. I don't really trip about framerates or anything. I would be migrating the graphics card. I'm also looking an Antec P101 silent case because the case/build I have has gotten pretty noisy over the years.
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Mar 11, 2020 00:00
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skooma512 posted:Is a high end i5 still a good pick over an i7 or has that changed and I should try to get an i7? skooma512 posted:Any Mobo makers to avoid? I often try to steer less experienced builders away from Asrock as their bios UIs are a bit odd and their low and mid-range boards don't have debug indicators. But those are minor features. The standard board recommended ITT is the MSI Tomahawk Max for fullsize ATX. skooma512 posted:I'm looking to get a motherboard that ideally has a bluetooth module in it and like 6 SATA ports, and more is always better on USB ports. I have a spare m.2 drive I could install as well. Almost all mobos have 6 sata ports, and everything has at least 1 m.2 slot. skooma512 posted:I'm also looking an Antec P101 silent case because the case/build I have has gotten pretty noisy over the years. If your case has gotten noisy over time that's likely down to dust accumulation or dying fans.
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Mar 11, 2020 01:29
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I've been hearing good things about Ryzen. I guess I didn't pay attention to AMD for the longest because they've been in the doldrums for a decade+ and their graphics cards have compatibility issues sometimes (which is probably also very outdated info). Is there a go-to model? No worries on the experience front. I work in IT and I'm pretty good at navigating all manner of crunchy, barebones interfaces. I know I probably should be answering Qs in here not asking them, but I don't really look at this stuff unless I need to and the computers at work are standard and aren't expected to do much more than not die. I'll look at that mobo when the time comes. Good call on Bluetooth, I guess I wasn't impressed with the kinivo dongle I got for my Xbox controller but a dongle should be fine. Good shout on the cases. To be fair I'm replacing an Antec 300 so idk why I would want to go back to them. I've cleaned out all the dust and replaced the fans, but the case resonates on top a bit and I put something heavy there to keep the metal from vibrating so much.
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Mar 11, 2020 02:22
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HoboTech posted:I posted before but completely missed posting the PC Parts list, which was bad reading comprehension on my part. I'm at work and I can't do it now, so I'll just be specific. Since I'm using the "Luxury Overclocker" sample build from the previous thread as my template, I guess I really just have one question: If you are using this Luxury Overclocker - A high-end tweaker's build with high-end parts targeting 4K, 50-60 FPS on Ultra details Intel Core i7-8700K Asus Maximus IX Hero A large quiet CPU cooler 16 GB of DDR4-3200+ RAM GeForce GTX 2080 (Ti) 1 TB Samsung 970 EVO SSD As your baseline, do not go with this, as it it outdated on the CPU and SSD side (CPU is 3 generations old now at this point since Intel has 10 series CPUs beginning to show up in the HEDT space, and Intel in general is not a great buy anymore as they're currently getting their teeth kicked in by AMD, Samsung is no longer the go-to for SSDs) Let us know what you are willing to spend(since you want a 2080TI I'm gonna guess money no object in the pursuit of performance), and someone in here will whip up a much more up to date build.) E: As a starting point since you are targeting Silly Expensive as a build price level, go to https://www.logicalincrements.com/ and click on Enthusiast level. However, if you are looking to save a couple bucks and still make over 60FPS on 4k gaming, you can probably save money on the CPU side, as well as the GPU side, which is the beautiful thing about building a computer as almost all of the parts are interchangeable and you can get 95% of the performance of that build while spending 75% of the money. orange juche fucked around with this message at 02:39 on Mar 11, 2020 |
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Mar 11, 2020 02:26
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I have little to no idea what I'm doing in picking parts and such--can someone help me? I saw the sample builds, but still have no idea how to change them work with what I need. I asked on here before, but didn't get much help. I'm going to be working with a highly rated locally owned computer store for this, but I need a parts list to begin with, and I don't really know where to start, exactly. I want to see if I can get something inbetween these two sample builds from earlier, PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/3mwZZf CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor ($124.99 @ B&H) Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.89 @ B&H) Memory: Patriot Viper 4 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($77.98 @ Amazon) Storage: ADATA Ultimate SU800 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($129.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: MSI Radeon RX 580 8 GB ARMOR OC Video Card ($154.99 @ Newegg) Case: Phanteks Eclipse P400A ATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply: Corsair CX (2017) 550 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($73.98 @ Amazon) Total: $676.82 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-03-10 21:34 EDT-0400 --- PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/69ksXv CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($174.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.89 @ B&H) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($92.99 @ Amazon) Storage: ADATA Ultimate SU800 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($129.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB GAMING OC Video Card ($409.99 @ Newegg) Case: Phanteks Eclipse P400A ATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($119.98 @ Amazon) Total: $1042.83 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-03-10 21:33 EDT-0400 My max budget is around $1,000, this'll mostly be for gaming, I tend to play on a flat screen tv at 1080p, smooth gameplay is my biggest concern over high graphics, etc.
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Mar 11, 2020 02:36
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I'd look more towards the first one, with a 1660S instead of the 580. Someone else might have better suggestions on ram and SSD, posting and walking makes checking prices hard. Also the Ryzen 1600AF is the same silicon as the 2600 but cheaper, just be 100% sure it's the AF model and not the AE one. Has anyone seen MikeC lately? I'm thinking the 1660S with a budget downgrade to Polaris is a better base rec than the other way around. Should also probably mention the 1600AF.
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Mar 11, 2020 03:12
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so I'm just trying to put together a nice computer with a low budget tell me if you think this is wack psu: CORSAIR RMx Series RM650x 2018 CP-9020178-NA 650W ATX12V / EPS12V 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Full Modular Power Supply memory: CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600) Desktop Memory Model CMK16GX4M2B3200C16 cpu: AMD RYZEN 7 3700X 8-Core 3.6 GHz (4.4 GHz Max Boost) Socket AM4 65W 100-100000071BOX Desktop Processor Monitor: MSI Optix G241 24" Full HD 1920 x 1080 1ms (MPRT) / 4ms (GTG) 144 Hz HDMI, DisplayPort AMD FreeSync Gaming Monitor storage: SAMSUNG 970 PRO M.2 2280 512GB PCIe Gen 3.0 x4, NVMe 1.3 V-NAND 2-bit MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) MZ-V7P512E mobo: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX AM4 AMD B450 SATA 6Gb/s ATX AMD Motherboard no gpu I just wanted to get something together and then buy the gpu
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Mar 11, 2020 03:23
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skooma512 posted:Is there a go-to model? A 3600 (non-X) or 3700X. Six cores vs eight cores, $180 vs $300. The 3600 is plenty for gaming with 6 cores and 12 threads. skooma512 posted:I'll look at that mobo when the time comes. Good call on Bluetooth, I guess I wasn't impressed with the kinivo dongle I got for my Xbox controller but a dongle should be fine. I've had good luck with an asus BT400, but honestly I doubt it's much different on the inside than the kinivo you had. Both of them use the standard MS bluetooth stack (which is best) so there's no driver difference. The giant drawback of all the tiny little usb-plug-size things is they have poo poo antennas, so you have to pay close attention to position and interference. They work like crap if you plug them into mobo in the rear of the case for example. Oliester posted:no gpu I just wanted to get something together and then buy the gpu The system will not work without a GPU, Ryzens don't have integrated graphics unless their model ends with 'G'. So unless you have an old video card available you will need to get one. Aside from that, a Samsung 970 Pro is stupid expensive unless you have very demanding needs for storage. For average games and apps a HP EX920, EX 950, or Adata SX8200 are more than sufficient.
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Mar 11, 2020 03:54
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oh rip I went ahead and bought it I guess I'm waiting on my tax return then
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Mar 11, 2020 04:02
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Why post? You didn't follow the thread criteria, your build is not budget, and, lol you already bought it?
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Mar 11, 2020 04:28
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yea doesn't seem very smart does it
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Mar 11, 2020 07:13
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We're perfectly happy to help you regret your choices in retrospect!  But seriously, return the 970 pro and get a 1 TB MX500 instead. Maybe return the 3700x and get a 3600, unless you have a very good reason to get eight cores. Now you've got $160 to play with, which would more than cover a used 570 on ebay to tide you over (maybe $60-70 if you're patient) or go a good ways towards a 1660 Super. E: You might want to consider picking up a Gammax 400 or Arctic Freezer 34. 3rd-gen stock coolers are sufficient, but barely, and they get loud when the fan spins up and down to deal with the sporadic boosting behavior. Stickman fucked around with this message at 07:31 on Mar 11, 2020 |
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Mar 11, 2020 07:25
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Return the RAM too for https://www.amazon.com/Ballistix-Sp...ps%2C365&sr=8-4. Micron E-die is so dirt cheap there's no point getting trash tier 3200C16 Palladium fucked around with this message at 08:37 on Mar 11, 2020 |
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Mar 11, 2020 08:33
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If he just runs them at XMP speeds there's no functional difference between E-die DDR4-3200-CL16 and whatever Corsair put into their XPS modules with the same rating. There's no reason to call the latter trash tier, either.
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Mar 11, 2020 09:42
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orcane posted:There's no reason to call the latter trash tier, either. Switching memory modules on a product, and designating the change with a version number that you can't see when purchasing it online, such that you end up with something that isn't on your mobo QVL, is something that I associate with a trash tier. If corsair wants to be a premium name that charges more than patriot or team group, they can't do that poo poo.
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Mar 11, 2020 14:36
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You do you  I mean, the reality is Corsair puts version numbers on their RAM and other manufacturers re-release sticks with new item codes and neither are going to be on the QVL of mainboards that are sufficiently old, so knowing whether you'll get Corsair LPX V3.51 or 3.54 is not going to be a big deal either way. If 100% compatibility or maximum overclocking is important then yeah sure, go with RAM that's identifiable and verified to work. For Joe User Corsair LPX DDR4-3200 is good enough. orcane fucked around with this message at 15:05 on Mar 11, 2020 |
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Mar 11, 2020 14:58
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I want to run this setup: Main monitor (HD for now, QHD eventually) to run games and poo poo. Side monitor (HD screen) - no games on this one. TV Monitor (4K) - Shows same as main monitor. Any things that would prevent me from that? The TV wouldn't always be turned on for obvious reasons.
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Mar 11, 2020 15:06
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Phone posting, so list isnt going to be pretty. Planning on buying this weekend, and I freely admit I'm a loving idiot, so please tell me if I'm way off base. Primary use case is going to be iRacing with either a single 27" screen at 1440p (dont have monitor yet, but itll be 144hz+) or via Rift S with occasional other gaming on said screen, primarily RTS. Biggest concern is running iRacing on the rift at a stable 80-90fps, and I'm not too concerned if I need to turn unneeded things down or off (crowds, clouds, etc.) Mild photo/video editing and general home use as well, plus obviously poo poo posting. CPU: Ryzen 3600X $199.99 Mobo: ASUS TUF GAMING X570 PLUS $174.06 GPU: Sapphire 5700XT Nitro+ $433.98 Ram: g skill ripjaws v series 2x8gb ddr4 3200 $69.99 SSD: Intel 660p 512gb NVME $69.98 HDD: Seagate Barracuda Compute 2TB $54.98 Case: Fractal Design Meshify C $98.99 PSU: SeaSonic FOCUS Plus Gold 650W $104.99 Total: $1206.96
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Mar 11, 2020 15:18
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iwentdoodie posted:CPU: Ryzen 3600X $199.99 CPU: Ryzen 3600 non-X is effectively identical to the X once you turn on PBO. A non-X and a $25 tower heatsink will be faster than an X. MOBO: An X570 has PCIe4, but PCIe4 is not particularly useful. A B450 is totally adequate. GPU: $433 seems like way too much money for a 5700XT. The most expensive cards of a line are universally bad value, you pay an extra $50 for 100mhz. SSD: Do not get the 660p at 512GB. (It's a QLC drive that relies on SLC cache to be fast, and on a small drive does not have enough.) Just get a WD Blue or MX500 sata drive. edit: Here's a suggested list for the same $1200: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/hjhkb8 Save a bit on mobo & GPU, plow it into a 2TB SSD and forget the spinny drive entirely. Klyith fucked around with this message at 16:08 on Mar 11, 2020 |
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Mar 11, 2020 15:54
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The Nitro+ has a great cooler so it stays very quiet even at full load, but if money is an issue you can spend $30 to $50 less and get a Sapphire Pulse / Powercolor Red Dragon / Gigabyte Gaming version of the RX 5700XT that will still be quiet while idling, but more audible/hotter when they're in use. It will have about the same performance in real world applications.
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Mar 11, 2020 16:05
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Ok, current list is as follows (this is for a 1440p midrange gaming/programming build, trying to be reasonably quiet). Including monitor. Seem reasonable? PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($174.99 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: ARCTIC Freezer 34 CO CPU Cooler ($31.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.89 @ B&H) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Crucial MX500 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($114.99 @ Adorama) Video Card: PowerColor Radeon RX 5700 8 GB RED DRAGON Video Card ($359.99 @ Amazon) Case: be quiet! Silent Base 601 ATX Mid Tower Case ($139.00 @ Amazon) Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS Plus Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($95.49 @ Amazon) Monitor: ViewSonic VX2758-2KP-MHD 27.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor ($304.98 @ Newegg) Total: $1406.31
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Mar 11, 2020 17:18
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Grumpwagon posted:Ok, current list is as follows (this is for a 1440p midrange gaming/programming build, trying to be reasonably quiet). Including monitor. Seem reasonable? 👍 Just so you know, cases like the bequiet are best when you care about quiet at idle. Mesh-front cases are several degrees cooler (and thus often a bit quieter) with heavy load. Also if you want even more quiet and can spare an extra $20, the Scythe Mugen 5 B is real good for the price.
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Mar 11, 2020 19:09
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ItBreathes posted:I'd look more towards the first one, with a 1660S instead of the 580. Someone else might have better suggestions on ram and SSD, posting and walking makes checking prices hard. Also the Ryzen 1600AF is the same silicon as the 2600 but cheaper, just be 100% sure it's the AF model and not the AE one. How's something like this? PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($166.79 @ PCM) Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.89 @ B&H) Memory: Patriot Viper 4 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($77.98 @ Amazon) Storage: Crucial BX500 2 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($199.99 @ Adorama) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER 6 GB GAMING OC Video Card ($249.99 @ B&H) Power Supply: Corsair CX (2017) 550 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($73.97 @ Amazon) Total: $883.61 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-03-11 14:43 EDT-0400 Think I might have gone a little too far with the storage, but I do need a lot--according to Steam I have nearly 800 games, and while I don't intend to install them all, I do know that installing/uninstalling is bad on SSDs, and I'd likely need to get an external drive sooner or later because of all of it. Also, I have no idea on the case--the one listed on the original list didn't seem to be available.
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Mar 11, 2020 19:46
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DMW45 posted:I do know that installing/uninstalling is bad on SSDs Nah, SSD endurance is totally not a concern for normal home users. If you install a new 100GB game every single day for a full year, you'll write 36 TB to the drive. Many drives have endurance rated in the 100s of terrabytes. (Even the BX500, which has fairly low endurance ratings for a TLC drive, has 120TBW endurance at the 480GB size.) Not to say you shouldn't get a big SSD -- they're fast and it's cool to ditch HDDs. But if you got a 2TB drive solely because you're worried about wearing it out, stop worrying and get a 1TB drive. Install & uninstall games without fear.
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Mar 11, 2020 20:04
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DMW45 posted:How's something like this? Some advice I received a few pages ago- if you do happen to live near a Micro Center you can get a Ryzen 5 3600 for the same price. As far an my ongoing memory saga goes I confirmed last night I have the most recent BIOS, and even tried some fairly aggressive under-clocking (relative to the listed 3200 MHz) and still got no POST. I'll have my new memory tomorrow so we'll see if I have some bad sticks right now or maybe some issue with the motherboard. I have noticed that the BOOT debug LED is the one that's lit and not the DRAM on, but I assume the DRAM is probably more of a "hey you don't have any memory at all" or "one of your sticks is on fire" type warning. Also, is there a general troubleshooting thread I should be using instead of clogging up the part picking thread with all this? GruntyThrst fucked around with this message at 20:58 on Mar 11, 2020 |
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Mar 11, 2020 20:48
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Klyith posted:Nah, SSD endurance is totally not a concern for normal home users. If you install a new 100GB game every single day for a full year, you'll write 36 TB to the drive. Many drives have endurance rated in the 100s of terrabytes. (Even the BX500, which has fairly low endurance ratings for a TLC drive, has 120TBW endurance at the 480GB size.) Interesting, I'll probably go down and pick up an additional external later if I need it. How does the rest of it look, though? As said, my max budget is $1,000 (lower if possible), want something roughly on par with the next gen of consoles to keep my computer able to play most upcoming games, and I tend to use a flat screen tv as a monitor, 1080p with standard refresh rate will be my goto. GruntyThrst posted:Some advice I received a few pages ago- if you do happen to live near a Micro Center you can get a Ryzen 5 3600 for the same price. Don't believe so, but I do live close to a locally owned computer shop--I'll be actually getting all of this through them.
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Mar 11, 2020 20:56
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This is meant to be a home workstation that can be used for software development, amateur gamedev, video-editing and 3D rendering. I don't have any professional editing software anymore, just cheap/open-source stuff. I built several machines in the early 2000s but have been on laptops since the capacitor plague killed them. Budget: $1000 or so. I'm in Seattle so no Microcenter, but I do have a relative with Amazon Prime. My day job is software dev and devops, so that workload would be VMs and compiling(Linux nerd). Between that and rendering, I bumped up the CPU as an assumption(no interest in OC'ing). I haven't really been doing AAA gaming outside of consoles and VRAM is recommended for video editing, hence the RX580. I'm using a single HP Z2 monitor(4K UHD) but I don't need to max it out for gaming. Main consideration is to be as quiet given its purpose. I wear headphones while working but my office is a corner of the bedroom and I don't need the noise when it's not under load. I originally picked the be quiet! case but if a mesh-front keeps it cooler and quieter that's fine(I don't have air conditioning and live in an older brick building). It's going to live under my fold-up desk so no windows or blinky lights wanted. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($289.99 @ Walmart) Motherboard: ASRock X570 Phantom Gaming 4 ATX AM4 Motherboard ($129.99 @ Newegg) Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($74.95 @ Amazon) Storage: Crucial MX500 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($114.99 @ Adorama) Video Card: *MSI Radeon RX 580 8 GB ARMOR OC Video Card ($154.99 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($92.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: *Corsair RMx (2018) 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($84.98 @ Newegg) Total: $942.87 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-03-11 16:08 EDT-0400
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Mar 11, 2020 21:17
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Even if you don’t live near a Microcenter, a 2600x is very much not worth $167. A 3600 is more powerful AND more efficient, and only $7 more. If you want to save money and have a 60Hz monitor, a 1600 af is $80 cheaper, is plenty powerful for 60 fps gaming, and has similar overclocking performance once you slap a $20 Gammaxx 400 or similar cooler on it.
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Mar 11, 2020 21:21
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DMW45 posted:How does the rest of it look, though? If the local computer shop already has the 2600X and are giving you some type of decent deal on it's all ok. If they're ordering the CPU, a 3600 goes for $175 online and is a better CPU than the 2600X. Mecha posted:My day job is software dev and devops, so that workload would be VMs and compiling(Linux nerd). Between that and rendering, I bumped up the CPU as an assumption(no interest in OC'ing). I haven't really been doing AAA gaming outside of consoles and VRAM is recommended for video editing, hence the RX580. I'm using a single HP Z2 monitor(4K UHD) but I don't need to max it out for gaming. Definitely get a decent tower heatsink then, such as a Scythe Mugen 5 B or Noctua U14. Idle quiet is better with a closed-front case like the bequiet or a non-mesh fractal -- when the machine isn't working they block more ambient noise of fans that still spin at low RPM. And really they can easily deal with just the CPU being loaded, for something like compiling. It's only when you have like 400W of heat from both CPU and GPU cranking that a mesh front panel really takes the lead. Drop down to a B450 instead of the X570. Since VMs are a thing you use, is 32GB of ram maybe a good investment? Ram is still pretty cheap right now.
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Mar 11, 2020 21:35
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Mecha posted:PCPartPicker Part List Like Klyith said go for a B450 motherboard instead and take the savings from that and put it into a third party CPU cooler. The MSI B450 Tomahawk Max is great choice and will not require a BIOS update before plopping a Ryzen 3xxx into it.
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Mar 11, 2020 22:08
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I already had my setup of a 3600+1070 for a couple of months now but should I be replacing the stock wraith cooler? I'm gaming at 1080p and I don't really care about the noise.
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Mar 11, 2020 22:15
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poe meater posted:I already had my setup of a 3600+1070 for a couple of months now but should I be replacing the stock wraith cooler? I'm gaming at 1080p and I don't really care about the noise. If you have a 60hz monitor, nah. If not, if you feel like it, you can get a handful more MHz, but it's mostly a noise / temp thing.
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Mar 11, 2020 22:35
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I need a new GPU for my wife's desktop, the GTX 760 is starting to flicker a bunch, and drivers haven't solved it. It's an older machine, about 4-5 years old, i5-4690k, 16 gigs ram. She's using it mostly for school (and soon work) but occasional casual gaming at 1080p. Needs to drive 2 monitors, ability to drive 3+ preferred MazeOfTzeentch fucked around with this message at 23:09 on Mar 11, 2020 |
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Mar 11, 2020 22:59
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Klyith posted:If the local computer shop already has the 2600X and are giving you some type of decent deal on it's all ok. If they're ordering the CPU, a 3600 goes for $175 online and is a better CPU than the 2600X. Oh, wait, I may have misclicked. The original list I was working from was 2600, not 2600X. How is this looking price wise? I don't exactly know how much the rest of the computer/getting it set up would be.
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Mar 11, 2020 23:52
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Looking to upgrade my wife's computer. Only plays games at 1080p but does run two monitors. Runs OBS from time to time if we're doing a stream together. She's on a i5 4690k and an older AMD video card, I want to say like a 270X or a 265? I have to open the case to confirm its been a while. These parts are in part being picked because I can drive down the road and pick them up from my local canada computers. Country: Canada Budget: 1200~ PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($239.00 @ Canada Computers) Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI) ATX AM4 Motherboard ($249.00 @ Canada Computers) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($114.99 @ Canada Computers) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER 6 GB OC Video Card ($329.00 @ Canada Computers) Case: NZXT H510 ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Canada Computers) Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS Plus Gold 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($154.99 @ Canada Computers) Is there anything wonky/off i should avoid or opt for instead? I know the Motherboard is a bit of overkill, but we may upgrade the processor/overclock down the line. Rawrbomb fucked around with this message at 14:31 on Mar 12, 2020 |
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Mar 12, 2020 00:41
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Klyith posted:CPU: Ryzen 3600 non-X is effectively identical to the X once you turn on PBO. A non-X and a $25 tower heatsink will be faster than an X. With you on the CPU. Mobo, is there anything wrong with the 570 or is the 450 better? I kept reading on the bad site and pcpartpicker to go with the 570 with that CPU, and for future proofing with the next gen of Zen also. GPU, the one I chose and the Red Devil were the ones I kept seeing recommended in those same places as the best of the 5700xt line which again was why I had them in the list. Like I said, I freely admit I'm an idiot with this poo poo and it's my first PC build since...goddamn, probably 2002. I appreciate the help and advice, I'm just curious on the whys behind what you're saying. I trust goons over the other places, so definitely not doubting you.
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Mar 12, 2020 01:04
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B450 boards on shelves before Zen 2 launched had an unsupported BIOS, which is why those warnings appear. It shouldn't be an issue anymore as boards of newer manufacturer (and we're talking about last summer here) will have an updated BIOS, and the MAX boards that get recommended were created specifically to address this. Now, not all B350 boards were guaranteed to support Zen2, but with the absence of B550 boards I'd be surprised if AMD let that happen with B450 boards, there's no technical/physical limitation that would stop them besides possibly the BIOS chip size issue the pre-MAX MSI boards had, but even then they'd probably just drop Zen/Zen+ support first. And Zen 4 is universally expected to have a new socket. Beyond that, X570 boards don't offer anything besides the aforementioned PCIe 4. E: The pulse often gets mentioned as one of the better 5700XTs as well, but I'm not sure exactly how it stacks up vs the red devil. Performance across the board is nigh identical on 5700XTs, it's noise / thermals where the better ones pull ahead.
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Mar 12, 2020 01:12
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Zedd posted:I want to run this setup: I do exactly this (previously with a 970 and now with a 2060) and it works fine. I set up the Main+Side monitors first, with the TV disabled. Then set up TV with Main+Side disabled. Once this is in place, you can easily switch between Main+Side and TV using the WIN+P shortcut. This gives you an easy way to cycle between the different sets of outputs.
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Mar 12, 2020 01:57
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Klyith posted:It's only when you have like 400W of heat from both CPU and GPU cranking that a mesh front panel really takes the lead.  Somehow it slipped my mind that they aren't going to both be cranking at the same time for my typical uses. The RAM is a good idea as well.Updated list: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($289.99 @ Walmart) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U14S 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler ($63.75 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.89 @ B&H) Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($74.95 @ Amazon) Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($74.95 @ Amazon) Storage: Crucial MX500 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($114.99 @ Adorama) Video Card: XFX Radeon RX 580 8 GB GTS XXX ED Video Card ($169.99 @ Amazon) Case: be quiet! Silent Base 601 ATX Mid Tower Case ($129.00 @ Amazon) Power Supply: *Corsair RMx (2018) 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($84.98 @ Newegg) Total: $1117.49 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-03-11 21:23 EDT-0400 It's a hair over my budget, but it feels worth it. One thing though: pcpartpicker is warning that the Noctis "may require a separately available mounting adapter to fit the Tomahawk MAX". Is this another spurious warning or is there an extra part I need?
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Mar 12, 2020 02:34
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