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TheMadMilkman posted:My wiring cabinet is a rat's nest like no other, and will be until I can get out to get some cable and a crimper. If you're just wiring up things in a cabinet, please do not buy a crimper and bare cable. It's way too much of a pain in the rear end. Buy patch cables (ie. they have the RJ 45 jacks on them) and thank yourself and me for saving you from hours of misery.
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# ? Apr 2, 2020 22:07 |
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# ? Apr 26, 2024 08:37 |
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But I want an excuse to buy new tools...
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# ? Apr 2, 2020 22:21 |
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derk posted:yes you can, unless they have TV from fios too. if they have just internet with verizon fios, they would have the ethernet from the ONT enabled and you can just run that into a router of your choice. I have a Ubiquiti ER-X running on my FiOS. I own a G1100 from frontier that works with FiOS as well, i began with that and then went ahead and got a ER-X and a Unifi AC Lite. Never looked back. In that case perhaps I will replace the router entirely. Good to know.
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# ? Apr 3, 2020 00:15 |
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I have an Asus router and a Unifi AP and also a Cloud Key handling it and my cameras. Is there a way to get the cloud key to do handoffs between the two APs or should I just get another Unifi AP and turn off the Asus wifi?
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# ? Apr 3, 2020 00:30 |
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Charles posted:I have an Asus router and a Unifi AP and also a Cloud Key handling it and my cameras. Is there a way to get the cloud key to do handoffs between the two APs or should I just get another Unifi AP and turn off the Asus wifi? Trying to mix systems won't work too well. I'd just get a second Unifi AP if you really wanted.
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# ? Apr 3, 2020 00:38 |
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Buff Hardback posted:Trying to mix systems won't work too well. I'd just get a second Unifi AP if you really wanted. I don't really want to but my iPhone doesn't seem to handle wandering around the house well. :/
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# ? Apr 3, 2020 00:44 |
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Two access points with the same SSID and WPA key don't have the magical ingredient that makes roaming work on bigger systems, so you will always have a less than great experience. https://community.cambiumnetworks.com/t5/cnPilot-E-Series-Enterprise-APs/What-is-Opportunistic-Key-Caching-OKC/td-p/53120
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# ? Apr 3, 2020 00:46 |
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Thanks Ants posted:Two access points with the same SSID and WPA key don't have the magical ingredient that makes roaming work on bigger systems, so you will always have a less than great experience. Bummer, it works alright with most stuff but the iPhone seems fussy. The router has AiMesh but I'm guessing that's proprietary?
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# ? Apr 3, 2020 01:16 |
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Charles posted:Bummer, it works alright with most stuff but the iPhone seems fussy. The router has AiMesh but I'm guessing that's proprietary? Yup.
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# ? Apr 3, 2020 02:38 |
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I am in the UK. I currently have a Netgear DM200 acting as a modem to get the VDSL internet out of the wall and feed it into the Mikrotik Hex router I have, the router doing all the DHCPing etc. A mate who has the same sort of internet connection I do needs a Netgear DM200. The DM200 is sold out and obsolete now apparently. What is the current recommended VDSL modem? He literally only needs it to get the internet out of the wall and into a separate router. The modem needs to be dumb and hopefully cheap, i.e. 30 ish quid and rock solid stable (like my current DM200).
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# ? Apr 3, 2020 12:51 |
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Get a Huawei HG612 off eBay
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# ? Apr 3, 2020 14:46 |
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Thanks Ants posted:Get a Huawei HG612 off eBay That's what he had lying around a year or two back, which he gave to me to have a play with that I promptly bricked by checking some option in the admin UI and could not get to reset, before buying my Netgear DM200. His current ISP modem is poo poo and on the brink of death. I shall buy him a fresh HG612 off ebay should he need one. Thanks Thanks Ants.
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# ? Apr 3, 2020 16:23 |
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The only thing better in the sense that they won't be five years old is the DrayTek Vigor 130, which is nearly £100 and needs a bit of tweaking via telnet () to sync without a really conservative SnR target which loses you 10Mbps quite easily. It sort of makes sense as they are business devices but you're just throwing speed away for no real reason if you're otherwise OK with a 30 second resync every couple of months. The BT Business Smart Hub can be put into a bridge mode but it's a large non-wall mountable device and you're not going to use most of the features. I actually have a brand new DM200 on my desk at work that I tested to see if it could support baby jumbo frames (it can't) which you could have had but I can't get into the office for who knows how many months. Thanks Ants fucked around with this message at 17:32 on Apr 3, 2020 |
# ? Apr 3, 2020 17:29 |
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Hi folks..like most people I'm working from home, but having a ton of bandwidth issues lately. I suspect Xfinity is either having too much congestion or my equipment is too old? I have a 200mbps/5mbps plan which is fine for meetings when I'm by myself, but with two kids on Zoom and me using Google Meet I think the uplink is annihilated. For whatever reason Zoom video seems to be running fine for my kids when my Google Meet runs like molasses. Not sure if Zoom is prioritizing packets or what? The speed (both up and down) seem fine at night so I suspect a congestion issue, but wondering if new equipment might help? I forgot where I read this, but someone mentioned if everyone is bonded to the same channels you could run into congestion issues. I have an Arris SB6141 modem which is an 8x4 modem. Would it be any helpful if I went to something like this (32x8)? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DY16W2Z Or does it not matter at all?
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# ? Apr 3, 2020 18:18 |
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Bank posted:I have a 200mbps/5mbps plan Are you sure that upload speed is correct? That doesn't seem right, as even on the lowest tier I was getting something like 30/15. 5Mbit upload is not good. My understanding is that getting a modem that can use more channels may help even if you don't have a higher speed tier, but I'd defer to others with more experience to confirm.
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# ? Apr 3, 2020 18:32 |
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H2SO4 posted:Are you sure that upload speed is correct? That doesn't seem right, as even on the lowest tier I was getting something like 30/15. 5Mbit upload is not good. Yeah it's pretty bad. From what I can read online, it's 5mbps. Xfinity makes no reference to upload in my plan, even though it's stupidly important for things like streaming to others.
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# ? Apr 3, 2020 19:05 |
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Bank posted:Yeah it's pretty bad. From what I can read online, it's 5mbps. Xfinity makes no reference to upload in my plan, even though it's stupidly important for things like streaming to others. You can try to disable HD video on Zoom for your kids to see if it helps, but 5mbps is low, and if anyone is sharing their screen, it's going to suck. I'd call Comcast. Sometimes they'll bump you up if you're on some old plan and they were eventually going to increase your speed anyway. You might just have to pay more for a higher tier though.
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# ? Apr 3, 2020 19:50 |
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Yeah both kids are on Zoom sharing webcams. I leave it on audio only which is "good enough" but definitely feel left out when my co-workers put up virtual happy hours and such. One of my co-workers not far from me is on a Comcast Business plan (75/15) and he says he's feeling the congestion too. I suspect upgrading equipment isn't going to do much for me.
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# ? Apr 3, 2020 19:54 |
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Bank posted:Yeah both kids are on Zoom sharing webcams. I leave it on audio only which is "good enough" but definitely feel left out when my co-workers put up virtual happy hours and such. One of my co-workers not far from me is on a Comcast Business plan (75/15) and he says he's feeling the congestion too. I suspect upgrading equipment isn't going to do much for me. I would definitely call Comcast support and tell them that you can't use Zoom successfully and suspect there's a speed issue. While they don't want to commit to a specific upload speed, support at least knows what it should be and can make sure there aren't any issues with the line/etc.
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# ? Apr 3, 2020 20:07 |
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Any recommendations for a decent wifi extender? I use Verizon's base router. I had an extender that worked well enough for 4-5 years, but it has sadly passed. I bought this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZJ9M3K5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and couldn't get it to connect to internet. I have returned it.
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# ? Apr 3, 2020 20:44 |
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Thanks Ants posted:The only thing better in the sense that they won't be five years old is the DrayTek Vigor 130, which is nearly £100 and needs a bit of tweaking via telnet () to sync without a really conservative SnR target which loses you 10Mbps quite easily. It sort of makes sense as they are business devices but you're just throwing speed away for no real reason if you're otherwise OK with a 30 second resync every couple of months. Thank you sir. If once this virus blows over he still needs one I shall ping you and ask to buy it off you, so that I may expiate my sins of bricking his 612!
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# ? Apr 3, 2020 22:14 |
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I'm trying a MOCA network now, and the adapters do not work as is, however I suspect it's because of the coax cable splitters not being high enough frequency in the house I'm in. Also, it's amplified when it comes into the house, which I'm not sure affects it? The manual for the MOCA adapter indicates it doesn't like amplifiers, but people on the internet say they use them and they work fine? The coax cable comes into the house like this, then the output of this goes to a single splitter which then goes directly to all of the coax plugs on wall sockets in the house. If I just replace the splitter with one that goes up to 2500Mhz will that make it work? The network would be entirely on the output side of the amp, it would not pass through it icantfindaname fucked around with this message at 10:30 on Apr 4, 2020 |
# ? Apr 4, 2020 10:26 |
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Did you get a filter and hook it up to the connection coming in to the house? Without one your network may not work/be degraded/blast your network out of your house.
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# ? Apr 4, 2020 16:29 |
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I keep getting disconnected from TF2 games. no other apps seem to disconnect, but I'm still wondering if I'm having mini outages. is there a program that could detect that? like it keeps pinging something reliable every second and reports when it doesn't work?
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# ? Apr 4, 2020 18:06 |
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My first attempt to switch my home network over on an ER-X failed. I started over today in more of a test state and had marginal more success. One weird thing is that when I do the wizards on the GUI it doesn’t let me choose a default up address and DHCP range for the internal network. It’s just blank there. Is it possible to write over a firmware install to make sure it worked? Maybe when I upgraded it didn’t work right. Edit: Haha. It’s terrible. Why can’t I have a default ip and DHCP server of anything but 192.168.1.x??? So easy to change on any other router. But not this? Weird. RocketLunatic fucked around with this message at 19:00 on Apr 4, 2020 |
# ? Apr 4, 2020 18:31 |
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RocketLunatic posted:My first attempt to switch my home network over on an ER-X failed. I started over today in more of a test state and had marginal more success. One weird thing is that when I do the wizards on the GUI it doesn’t let me choose a default up address and DHCP range for the internal network. It’s just blank there. Basic setup wizard, go to the (collapsed/hidden) "LAN Ports" section. You can change it there.
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# ? Apr 4, 2020 19:10 |
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smax posted:Basic setup wizard, go to the (collapsed/hidden) "LAN Ports" section. You can change it there. Yeah after three or for resets, the hidden part finally showed. Don’t know why it wouldn’t before. So weird.
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# ? Apr 4, 2020 19:11 |
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NotNut posted:I keep getting disconnected from TF2 games. no other apps seem to disconnect, but I'm still wondering if I'm having mini outages. is there a program that could detect that? like it keeps pinging something reliable every second and reports when it doesn't work? Least effort is to do a continuous ping (ping - t) to both your router and to something on the internet like 8.8.8.8. When you get disconnect, tab over and see which one(s) are dropping replies. Pinging both just helps a little to tell you if it's just your ISP or if it's your wireless/network. There's better ways of doing it but that's a good start. Internet Explorer fucked around with this message at 19:42 on Apr 4, 2020 |
# ? Apr 4, 2020 19:19 |
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H2SO4 posted:Are you sure that upload speed is correct? That doesn't seem right, as even on the lowest tier I was getting something like 30/15. 5Mbit upload is not good. I’m kinda bummed out to lose my 1000/1000 and go back to loving Comcast in like two weeks. The place is from 1984 and I’m now afraid of going back to the usual Comcast fuckery and poo poo upload speeds.
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# ? Apr 4, 2020 21:49 |
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withoutclass posted:Did you get a filter and hook it up to the connection coming in to the house? Without one your network may not work/be degraded/blast your network out of your house. You mean this thing? I didn’t put it on because I thought it only mattered to stop people outside the network from snooping, which I wasn’t worried about at that point. You need to have it for the network to work at all? icantfindaname fucked around with this message at 23:04 on Apr 4, 2020 |
# ? Apr 4, 2020 23:00 |
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icantfindaname posted:You mean this thing? Yea I think there can be interference and poo poo. My buddy was having a bad experience when first trying it out and putting the filter on fixed it for him.
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# ? Apr 4, 2020 23:28 |
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This isn't a home network but it has to do with an ethernet switch, i think. We had issues with RDP resetting and it seems like a full switch reset has fixed it. However, one machine that is plugged into a yet-to-be-rebooted unmanaged switch boots you off an RDP session like clockwork. Every 1590s (or 26m30s). Even if I disconnect a session, it's still operating on some kind of internal clock where it will still reset at a multiple of 26m30s. So if I connect 10 mins into that, it'll disconnect 16m30s later. If I happen to log in 1min before one of those 26m30s loops, it'll disconnect me a minute later. Aside from rebooting the switch, does this issue have any kind of fix, and does anyone have a sense of what could be causing it?
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# ? Apr 5, 2020 00:44 |
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We close on a house at the end of the month - pulling out coaxial wall plates and replacing them with CAT6 keystones is the way to go, yes? I doubt I’ll ever use the coaxial for anything, and using something like this should make the job easy enough. I could run multiple cat6 lines to keystone plates with 4+ jacks, but it might just be worth grabbing a USW Flex Mini for areas with multiple devices. Any suggestions for a good wall mountable server rack/cabinet? I want something spacious that I could fit a large tower in. Eventually I’d like the grab a UDM Pro and an outdoor AP, but centralizing my networking equipment and server in the basement with a couple APs mounted throughout the house will be a nice start. Corb3t fucked around with this message at 05:13 on Apr 5, 2020 |
# ? Apr 5, 2020 05:06 |
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Gay Retard posted:We close on a house at the end of the month - pulling out coaxial wall plates and replacing them with CAT6 keystones is the way to go, yes? I doubt I’ll ever use the coaxial for anything, and using something like this should make the job easy enough. The fiberglass kit is fine but might be hard to pull four wire at once( even then if would be a shitton better to have a central switch than multiple minis). Keep in mind that a desktop case counts for 4-5 units (at 450mm depth minimum) so don’t get a rack too tiny for your kit.
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# ? Apr 5, 2020 14:14 |
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I'm curious, not buying one now, but what selection of switches are out there that satisfy these criteria: 5 to 24 10-gigabit Ethernet ports Fanless Stable Less than £200 Unmanaged (i.e. a dumb switch)
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# ? Apr 5, 2020 20:12 |
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Steakandchips posted:I'm curious, not buying one now, but what selection of switches are out there that satisfy these criteria: Edit: I read that as 1gig. What you want doesn't exist on the market to my knowledge. Copper 10gig is super hot right now, as in a lot of btu's. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Apr 5, 2020 |
# ? Apr 5, 2020 20:21 |
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Steakandchips posted:I'm curious, not buying one now, but what selection of switches are out there that satisfy these criteria: you want 5+ 10-gigs? I'd not expect there to be anything that meets that criteria
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# ? Apr 5, 2020 21:05 |
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You budget is way off, you can get close if your 10Gbps requirements can be met with SFP+ ports but I assume you want copper.
Thanks Ants fucked around with this message at 22:09 on Apr 5, 2020 |
# ? Apr 5, 2020 22:07 |
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Steakandchips posted:I'm curious, not buying one now, but what selection of switches are out there that satisfy these criteria: If you are fine with sfp+ cages there are a handful of switches from mikrotik that fit most of your specs.
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# ? Apr 5, 2020 22:48 |
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# ? Apr 26, 2024 08:37 |
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Just recently purchased a new protectli appliance to install pfsense and replace my edge router. My goal is to get everything set up to feed my Security Onion VM, as well as configure squid as a TLS transparent proxy since mirroring a port or running an inline tap isn’t very effective for getting pcaps anymore. I’ve done similar in the past at my last job, where I set up and configured the web gateway to decrypt ssl for filtering web apps, and pushed a trusted root certificate to the clients to work with it. Anyone else doing anything similar or would have any advice or issues they ran into with their setup?
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# ? Apr 6, 2020 16:48 |