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TooMuchAbstraction posted:No idea, but personally my gut feeling is I'd be uncomfortable putting more than, oh, 50 pounds on a single stud, by any method of attachment. Anything more than that should be distributed across multiple studs IMO. That stud is going to be really well braced with plates top and bottom and load bearing (haha jk) drywall, plus they're vertical, so it's gonna hold well over 50lb easily. Like 3-4 times, just off the cuff. But, w/e. dupersaurus posted:Hanging something for ~25 pounds of cats to climb on. The prototype is a box about 7" deep, and only big enough for one stud. You could own the World's fattest cat, no worries here.
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Apr 3, 2020 01:09
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JEEVES420 posted:Never assume anything from dimensional lumber from big box stores. If I am grabbing any kind of wood (even 2x4s and sheet goods) I first go over to the tools section and grab a tape measure. Just don't be a dick, put it back where you got it when you're done. What my dude says here. 12", 2", 4" etc are generic labels for rough-sawn and wet out of the mill, which is their dimension at that point.
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Apr 3, 2020 01:11
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Mind giving a sentence or two run through of the process and anything you wish you knew before you started? Looks really great Alright, here's my quick little marquetry tutorial. One of the main things I wished I knew before I had ever started was that it's super easy to cut by hand and you don't need a scrollsaw. A lot of guides recommend a scrollsaw, and if you don't have a really nice one it will make it frustrating. My first few attempts were using a crappy $20 used scroll saw and it made things harder than they really are. The method I learned at a course and now use is referred to as bevel cut marquetry, if anybody wants to learn more. Here's the general process... 1. Put your design on your background veneer, I used carbon paper to transfer a drawing I had done in photoshop. I numbered all the pieces I will be cutting as they're cut one at a time so you want to try and start with the background pieces and then cut into them as you progress.  2. Pick a piece of veneer for the part you want to cut out. Always a good idea to make it a bit bigger so you have a bit of room for error.  3. Apply clear scotch tape onto the background veneer and then blue painters tape onto the back of the other piece. The tape protects the fragile veneer from splintering, especially at the points of the leaves.  4. Tape your workpiece to the back using blue tape, it's tough to get it exactly over where you will be cutting which is why having a little extra is nice.  5. Pierce through both veneer pieces using an exacto knife.  6. Feed the blade through the pierced piece. Here you can see my cutting table, a piece of 3/4" ply with a table saw kerf, a 1" hole and a washer epoxied at the cutting zone. The 1" hole lets you put your fretsaw handle in it to free up your hands for feeding the blade through the tiny hole and tensioning the saw. I am using a 12" saw with size 4/0 blades.  7. Feed the blade through to your cutting area (the washer). Then you tilt the saw a few degrees, the direction you tilt depends on which direction you are cutting around your design (clockwise or counter). You want you saw to be tilted such that the bottom piece will be larger. Then you use one hand to raise the blade up and down and the other hand feeds the entire package to follow the line. Basically a hand powered scrollsaw it what you are doing here.  8. Once you've cut it out you've got a couple pieces, the background and the other piece, because the bottom piece is cut a tiny bit bigger due to the angle of cut, it wedges nicely into the background and fills any blade kerf that would exist had you held the saw totally vertical.  9. Remove the excess veneer that's left taped to the back and use blue tape to tape the backside of the pieces together. Then keep cutting more. When you are all done you apply veneer tape to the front, remove the blue tape from the back and then glue it down to the substrate.  Here is this panel totally done, it'll look way nicer onces it's glued down on a substrate and the leftover pencil marks have been scraped and sanded away.  Veneer tape applied.  The blades are super tiny so expect to break lots, but breakage goes down as you get better. I found that I also got way quicker at feeding the blade through the pierced hole over time. I'll answer any questions anyone else has.
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Apr 3, 2020 01:16
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Alright, here's my quick little marquetry tutorial. One of the main things I wished I knew before I had ever started was that it's super easy to cut by hand and you don't need a scrollsaw. A lot of guides recommend a scrollsaw, and if you don't have a really nice one it will make it frustrating. My first few attempts were using a crappy $20 used scroll saw and it made things harder than they really are. This is awesome and way more than I expected, thank you! I'm definitely going to use some of these tricks. Very nice work
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Apr 3, 2020 01:24
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Alright, here's my quick little marquetry tutorial. One of the main things I wished I knew before I had ever started was that it's super easy to cut by hand and you don't need a scrollsaw. A lot of guides recommend a scrollsaw, and if you don't have a really nice one it will make it frustrating. My first few attempts were using a crappy $20 used scroll saw and it made things harder than they really are. E: this guy? https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/saws/fret/45654-featherweight-fret-saw-frame Have you messed around with shading stuff with burned sand or anything like that? E2: holy poo poo lee valley redid their website and it's not organized well at all anymore but this thing is peak handtool where handtool sells out and turns a handsaw into a $1500 ultra-precision upside down handsaw jig on a stand: https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/saws/japanese/110048-bridge-city-jointmaker-pro Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 01:39 on Apr 3, 2020 |
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Apr 3, 2020 01:33
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Mr. Mambold posted:What my dude says here. 12", 2", 4" etc are generic labels for rough-sawn and wet out of the mill, which is their dimension at that point. Duder, I know quite well the difference between nominal and actual lumber sizing. A 12” nominal board width should be 11.25” (the standard), not 11”.
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Apr 3, 2020 02:04
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I bought a bunch of these in “unfinished oak.” https://www.menards.com/main/doors-...44426841782.htm I foam brushed on some of this, then wiped it off. https://www.menards.com/main/paint/...44453001532.htm 5 hours later, it still hadn’t dried, so I wiped it down with mineral spirits. The color lightened up a bunch, but 5 more hours later, it’s still not dry. What did I do wrong?
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Apr 3, 2020 02:12
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Hasselblad posted:Duder, I know quite well the difference between nominal and actual lumber sizing. A 12” nominal board width should be 11.25” (the standard), not 11”. The point being made is that "should" often isn't, and it's just a fact of the business. The tolerances on true dimensions of dimensional lumber are pretty wide, in other words. You might be able to convince Lowes to let you return a year-old board because you didn't measure it when you bought it, but in the future you'd be better-served by verifying your dimensions instead of trusting the store.
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Apr 3, 2020 02:19
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Hasselblad posted:Duder, I know quite well the difference between nominal and actual lumber sizing. A 12” nominal board width should be 11.25” (the standard), not 11”. Do the numbers here if you want: https://www.woodbin.com/calcs/shrinkulator/
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Apr 3, 2020 02:51
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:The point being made is that "should" often isn't, and it's just a fact of the business. The tolerances on true dimensions of dimensional lumber are pretty wide, in other words. You might be able to convince Lowes to let you return a year-old board because you didn't measure it when you bought it, but in the future you'd be better-served by verifying your dimensions instead of trusting the store. Hense what I originally wrote: Hasselblad posted:Chalk it up to being too dumb to measure at the store? Kaiser Schnitzel posted:It's entirely possible the board was 11.25." when you bought it S-DRY with a 19% moisture content and after a few dry winter months inside ~2 months. I suspect it was already 11" when I purchased. It was one of the few that were left amidst the dregs I had to pick through. (Seems they absolutely hate to open a new pack until the backwash is all gone) Again, live and learn, and measure prior to purchase. 
Hasselblad fucked around with this message at 04:27 on Apr 3, 2020 |
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Apr 3, 2020 04:21
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Thank you! This makes a lot of sense. All my veneer work has involved cutting each piece separately which has invariably led to gaps that have to be filled with stringing. This method seems like it would make everything better and tighter. What kind of saw are you using? Yes that is the exact saw I'm using, I bought the blades off amazon as Lee Valley didn't have 4/0 sized blades. I have not attempted sand shading, but I'll likely be attempting it for future projects. That jointmaker pro is intense, I'd love to see them make one with a handplane.
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Apr 3, 2020 17:58
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Mr. Mambold posted:In the U.K. they get crazy rain all during then. We get crazy rain August to April.
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Apr 4, 2020 20:19
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If I plan on wet sanding a poly finish up to 2k, should I let it cure the full week before I try it? This isn't one of those things where I should actually do it early for best results, is it?
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Apr 4, 2020 23:17
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Huxley posted:If I plan on wet sanding a poly finish up to 2k, should I let it cure the full week before I try it? I usually wet sand and rub immediately after finishing, mostly because I'm in a hurry, but also because I don't like rubbing and it's much much easier and faster when the finish is softer. It does seem to magically get shinier and look/feel better as the finish cures, but I also am not usually trying to fill the grain or get a super high-gloss, polished finish.
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Apr 5, 2020 15:20
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:It depends on what you want. Doing it sooner is much easier to rub out and you can use your thing tomorrow, but the finish will shrink a bit more and sometimes flaws that looked fine will show up (grain that looked filled pops back out after the finish shrinks). Waiting a week means a harder finish that will sand easier/not clog paper as much, take a higher polish, and you know where you stand with it. If you want a want a mirror-flat, high gloss finish, definitely wait a week, or even several weeks, for the finish to completely off-gas, shrink, and cure. Thanks! This is a one-off project, refinishing a guitar body for dad, and it's not like I can give the drat thing back to him before July anyway. I wanted to make sure I went the way of "best results, effort and time be damned" but sometimes even that means doing it fast.
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Apr 5, 2020 16:28
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Anyone made a DIY router table before? How hard is it, and what kind of tools do you need? I have a 3/4 hp trim router I'd like to get some more use out of, and I'm wondering if I could make a simple router table for working with stock up to 1" thick or so. I don't have much in the way of a shop, just like, a circular saw, miter saw, palm router, hand drill, and dremel. I have a small desktop CNC mill that I could use to make a mounting plate out of aluminum (can handle up to a 4 x 5 stock size.) Think this is feasible?
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Apr 5, 2020 21:51
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I have a "workbench" (not a proper woodworking bench) with a 3/4" plywood top and I just mounted my 1/2" router to the underside of that, most of the time there's just a 1" hole above it, though I might make a plug to cover that.
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Apr 5, 2020 23:20
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I made my daughter a little desk with a couple pieces of edge-glued pine. Basically just a box that hangs off the shelf rails on her bedroom wall, but it works. All dovetailed together; Doing dovetails in pine sucks. Ended up just using my shinto rasp to clean out the waste for most of these. HolHorsejob posted:Anyone made a DIY router table before? How hard is it, and what kind of tools do you need? I have a 3/4 hp trim router I'd like to get some more use out of, and I'm wondering if I could make a simple router table for working with stock up to 1" thick or so. Yeah, I used a piece of 3/4 plywood, cut a ~1" hole in it, and drilled holes that lined up with the router base. For the fence, I just got a straight piece of pine, bolted one end to the plywood, and cut a half circle out that lined up with the hole in the plywood. Then you can just adjust the angle to however far from the router bit you need it, and clamp the other end. So something like this:  Elder Postsman fucked around with this message at 03:45 on Apr 7, 2020 |
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Apr 7, 2020 03:30
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Elder Postsman posted:Yeah, I used a piece of 3/4 plywood, cut a ~1" hole in it, and drilled holes that lined up with the router base. For the fence, I just got a straight piece of pine, bolted one end to the plywood, and cut a half circle out that lined up with the hole in the plywood. Then you can just adjust the angle to however far from the router bit you need it, and clamp the other end. So something like this: I like that, I think I'll add that fence idea to mine.
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Apr 7, 2020 09:43
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Elder Postsman posted:Yeah, I used a piece of 3/4 plywood, cut a ~1" hole in it, and drilled holes that lined up with the router base. For the fence, I just got a straight piece of pine, bolted one end to the plywood, and cut a half circle out that lined up with the hole in the plywood. Then you can just adjust the angle to however far from the router bit you need it, and clamp the other end. So something like this: Nice
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Apr 7, 2020 11:22
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Elder Postsman posted:straight piece of pine You lost me here, where do did you find this mythical tree?
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Apr 7, 2020 18:43
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Elder Postsman posted:I made my daughter a little desk with a couple pieces of edge-glued pine. Basically just a box that hangs off the shelf rails on her bedroom wall, but it works. All dovetailed together; We have the same model router table 
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Apr 7, 2020 18:49
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Elder Postsman posted:I made my daughter a little desk with a couple pieces of edge-glued pine. Basically just a box that hangs off the shelf rails on her bedroom wall, but it works. All dovetailed together; Thanks! Looks simple enough. Now I just need to find the plunge base for it and see how I'm going to attach it. Incidentally, do you think a 3/4 hp palm router with a 1/4", straight-flute carbide bit would be able to cut 1" hickory if I go slow? I want to try my hand at freehand routing using a printout taped to the stock. Would I have to do multiple depths, or could I just take slow, shallow radial passes? e: also, that desk is lovely!
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Apr 7, 2020 21:06
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I've got a Dewalt 7491RS jobsite saw-- the one with a mobile base. I would like to have a crosscut sled for it, but between the quarantine/lockdown stuff I'm doing my best not to leave the house or go do unnecessary shopping. So, from my Ikea kitchen remodel I have several spare, fairly wide shelves that are some sort of MDF with a white melamine veneer. Is there any reason I shouldn't use one of these as my main surface for a sled (instead of 3/4" plywood)? Next question is being a very occasional woodworker in a garage that is definitely not well equipped, what can I use for the miter slot runners? I don't have any hardwood laying around, that most videos suggest. Is there an inexpensive-ish aluminum rail from Kreg or Rockler that I should try?
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Apr 10, 2020 02:15
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MetaJew posted:I've got a Dewalt 7491RS jobsite saw-- the one with a mobile base. I would like to have a crosscut sled for it, but between the quarantine/lockdown stuff I'm doing my best not to leave the house or go do unnecessary shopping. For that size saw, the 18” miter bar from Rockler would probably do the trick. https://www.rockler.com/rockler-18-24-aluminum-miter-bar
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Apr 10, 2020 03:00
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Dolphin posted:Anyone have any tips for finishing ash? I'm working on a desk and wanted a natural finish like an oil but everything just turns it yellow and looks like garbage. Is there a tint I can add or something? Not a huge fan of lacquers and such. I'm not totally opposed to staining it but I'm trying to keep the wood as light as possible. I've seen some finishes where they get the grain darker and the rest lighter but I don't know how they achieve that effect https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZqDh0wJIRw This was also in the June issue of Fine Woodworking; haven't done it yet but I'm itching to try it with some white oak chairs I'm building.
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Apr 10, 2020 04:44
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ReapersTouch posted:So, I'd like to build a corner bench that has a built in planter box and a trellis on both sides. Does anyone have any recommendations for any software that would let me design what I want, and tell me what pieces of lumber I need to buy? Quoting because I don’t think this question was ever answered, but I am also curious about woodworking design software.
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Apr 10, 2020 06:55
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MetaJew posted:I've got a Dewalt 7491RS jobsite saw-- the one with a mobile base. I would like to have a crosscut sled for it, but between the quarantine/lockdown stuff I'm doing my best not to leave the house or go do unnecessary shopping. Flat is flat i say. As long as its not veneered particle board you should be fine. As far as runners you can get away with pine. Just replace them later when the world isn't ending. If you are worried about them expanding and contracting you can cut them a hair undersized and compress the wood a little with set screws. Another option is to cut up an old plastic cutting board for runners.
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Apr 10, 2020 17:38
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I. M. Gei posted:Quoting because I don’t think this question was ever answered, but I am also curious about woodworking design software. There is a cutlist plugin for sketchup but i think its only for sheet goods. Ive used http://workshop-buddy.com/cut-optimization-calculator.html once or twice and it's always given me great results. I would think you could build the model in sketchup and just plug all of your individual pieces into that.
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Apr 10, 2020 17:47
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The Spookmaster posted:There is a cutlist plugin for sketchup but i think its only for sheet goods. Ive used http://workshop-buddy.com/cut-optimization-calculator.html once or twice and it's always given me great results. I would think you could build the model in sketchup and just plug all of your individual pieces into that. What's a 1x4 other than a very narrow, single ply piece of sheet goods?
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Apr 10, 2020 17:49
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The cutlist plugin for Sketchup works for dimensional lumber as well as sheet goods. That said, its best use is probably on projects that are plywood heavy. Its method of optimizing cuts on lumber doesn't take any rough dimensioning into account, nor does it let you specify grain direction. It also bases cuts on the component's bounding box, which (by default) can suck for angled pieces: CutList reads that top board as being a foot and a half wide rather than a 2x8. I can edit the axes, but spending the time cleaning up a model to output correctly on CutList is usually more work than just getting the dimensions myself.
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Apr 10, 2020 18:31
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I'm building myself a new office setup/desk. It's mostly welded steel but the "top" of the desk is 3/4" mahogany plywood from my local lumber yard. I'm looking to try a new finish. Most of my past projects have been finished in waterlox but I'm looking for something that will feel and look softer without the appearance of a plastic coating. The wood top portion of this desk isn't really a work surface, more a decorative place where I can under mount my oversized humanscale keyboard tray so it does not need to be a super durable finish. I'm currently looking at tried and true original- anyone have experience with that? Difficult to apply? Any tips?
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Apr 12, 2020 18:34
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So I want to build a new desk because working on my kitchen table is wearing thin very rapidly and this stay at home order seems like it's going to be in place for a while. My current plan is to buy some cheap solid core or slab doors off craig's list, cut them to size, and put some legs under them. Is there anything about this plan that is obviously a bad idea that I'm not seeing? On a totally unrelated note, I was gifted a Hegner scroll saw, it's labeled as a multimax-18 and was manufactured in 2000 if I'm reading this thing right. I have no idea how much use it has seen, it was owned by my mother in law's father and has probably been sitting in various garages for the majority of the 20 years it's existed. Am I right in assuming that this is a pretty serious machine and I should probably be doing awesome stuff with it?
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Apr 13, 2020 02:44
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Olothreutes posted:So I want to build a new desk because working on my kitchen table is wearing thin very rapidly and this stay at home order seems like it's going to be in place for a while. My current plan is to buy some cheap solid core or slab doors off craig's list, cut them to size, and put some legs under them. Is there anything about this plan that is obviously a bad idea that I'm not seeing? Yes Hegner is pretty much top of the line when it comes to scroll saws. Good blades are as important as a good saw, but it should outlast you. E:vvv see below. vvvv Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 04:39 on Apr 13, 2020 |
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Apr 13, 2020 02:59
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Olothreutes posted:So I want to build a new desk because working on my kitchen table is wearing thin very rapidly and this stay at home order seems like it's going to be in place for a while. My current plan is to buy some cheap solid core or slab doors off craig's list, cut them to size, and put some legs under them. Is there anything about this plan that is obviously a bad idea that I'm not seeing?
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Apr 13, 2020 03:07
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Slugworth posted:I guess my question would be what the advantage to thjs plan is over just buying a cheap desk. Price wise you're probably neck and neck, and in the end you have a much heavier than necessary object which is also sort of ugly. If you were building a quick and dirty workbench for the garage, I think it would make more sense to me. Mostly because I couldn't find a desk that would do everything I wanted until I hit the ~$500 range, and this project almost assuredly won't hit that price tag, or even half that. I don't mind it being heavy and I'm willing to put some time into fixing the ugly. What else am I going to do while stuck in my home? I can probably spend $50 and get three solid core doors that would give me enough material to do basically whatever I want with it, and still have $200 to build some legs and make it not ugly, in addition to getting it to fit into the space I want exactly, before I hit 50% of the "just buy it" plan. One major thing is that I want an L shaped desk to accommodate a bunch of the junk that I otherwise have to keep in various places and would love to centralize, but the space I'm putting it in means that it won't be in a corner, only one side will fit against the wall. The back of most commercial L desks aren't finished, leaving me with bare particle board hanging around being ugly. Or I can just make it. This isn't just a stopgap "I need something until the office reopens" sort of plan, I also want a desk beyond that.
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Apr 13, 2020 04:13
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:As long as you get a solid core door and not a hollow core door it should be no problem to cut down. Yes it is*. Solid core doors are just particle board inside two veneers and some 1" strips for top and side rails with a ~6"-8" solid bottom rail (for undercutting to size). For hollow core replace the particle board with cardboard in a 4" honeycomb pattern. *I used to make doors If you don't mind routing out the particle board and gluing a new wood rail in they do make sturdy desk tops. But IMO if your not using the door "as is" and its not free, you might as well get some 3/4" plywood.
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Apr 13, 2020 04:30
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JEEVES420 posted:Yes it is*. Solid core doors are just particle board inside two veneers and some 1" strips for top and side rails with a ~6"-8" solid bottom rail (for undercutting to size). Oh yeah you’re totally right. I was thinking of veneered stave core style construction but that’s not at all how a $200 dollar slab door is going to be made. It’s probably actually easier to cut down and rebuild a hollow core core than solid core, and the torsion box of a hollow core is still plenty stiff for a desk. Remember to use your best level to smash the cardboard with!
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Apr 13, 2020 04:45
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I concur with the plywood recommendation. High-quality plywood with a gentle roundover looks good (so long as you don't mind the visible plies on the edges), takes finish well, and is definitely stronger than a door would be. Or if you're equipped to do more intensive woodworking, it's really not hard to make a solid wood desktop. Buy 4/4 lumber, edge join (biscuits/dowels aren't needed for strength since the glue surface area is so large), plane flat, sand, finish. You'll want some cross-supports underneath to help bear load, but you'd want that for any tabletop unless it's made from really beefy materials.
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Apr 13, 2020 05:06
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Made a bread box based on a Paul Sellers project. I didn’t actually watch the videos since it’s pretty simple. Did some basic box joints as I didn’t like the design of his.    The main box is some ~90 year old silky oak from a bed belonging to my grandmother. The cutting board part is unknown firewood, probably turpentine, since it was basically 100% silica, destroyed all my tool edges, and was full of interlocking grain that just loved to chip and splinter, even using a fresh card scraper. Such a bastard to work. I’m now worried it might even be too hard for my bread knife... The good thing about this design is I can just make another lid in future if I feel like it.
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Apr 13, 2020 14:03
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