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My UDM arrived. Compared to my prior setup (ERX -> USW 60W -> AC Lite) the measured wifi performance of my desktop is way better, and cable hell is noticeably better. Having all of the management under one roof is nice although I find the firewall interface weird and maybe a little incomplete coming from the ERX, although perfectly serviceable. I really like the slim Ubiquiti network cables, which I bought because they were ~$2 apiece and I'm tired of having the random yellow and blue patch cables I've accumulated over the years sticking out like a sore thumb.
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May 6, 2020 19:28
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https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01LF83HTG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_p00SEbSKQAQQF?pldnSite=1 I have those cables coming from my router, feeding into standard Cat6 cables that serve other rooms in the house, and the same flat cables from the exit points directly into devices or Ethernet switches. Thus far in this house we've had speeds of 38Mbps down/8Mbps up from our FTTC connection, which are the speeds expected. So far as I can tell they've worked just as well as the standard thickness cables in terms of overall speed and latency. If gods be good and SARS-CoV-2 doesn't kill me or completely alter the Openreach deployment plan, hopefully within the next few months I should be able to get a full fibre diet of 900Mbps download speeds. My question is, am I going to see a speed or latency bottleneck using those flat cables at 900Mbps, or am I safe to keep using them? We easily max out our speeds all the time with the connection we currently have. At any one time we can have two Xbox Ones downloading games or patches of 100GB+, multiplayer games, multiple phones, tablets, TVs and smart devices all running simultaneously, including 4K HDR, not to mention a PC downloading ISOs of various operating systems for the fun.
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May 7, 2020 01:42
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I've tried a bunch of different radio settings to get a TLC Roku TV that's wireless AC capable to connect faster than 173 Mbps (on 5GHz) to a TP-Link EAP225 AP, but nothing has helped. Is this just a limitation of the wifi chip they put in the TV? AC capable devices like an Apple TV or a Galaxy S10e phone connects to the AP at 866 Mbps no problem.
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May 7, 2020 01:55
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WattsvilleBlues posted:https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01LF83HTG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_p00SEbSKQAQQF?pldnSite=1 The flat ones over short runs are more or less okay. I wouldn't use them for a max specced length Ethernet run, but <50 feet or so and they're functionally equivalent. teagone posted:I've tried a bunch of different radio settings to get a TLC Roku TV that's wireless AC capable to connect faster than 173 Mbps (on 5GHz) to a TP-Link EAP225 AP, but nothing has helped. Is this just a limitation of the wifi chip they put in the TV? AC capable devices like an Apple TV or a Galaxy S10e phone connects to the AP at 866 Mbps no problem. It's probably got the absolute cheapest radio, since that's 2x2 MU-MIMO at 20Mhz channels. 
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May 7, 2020 02:07
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Buff Hardback posted:The flat ones over short runs are more or less okay. I wouldn't use them for a max specced length Ethernet run, but <50 feet or so and they're functionally equivalent. Thanks son. They're 50cm/20inches in length - I'm ok to stick with them then?
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May 7, 2020 02:09
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WattsvilleBlues posted:Thanks son. They're 50cm/20inches in length - I'm ok to stick with them then? Yeah, that shouldn't be an issue. I was running my uplink from my USG to my core switch on a 25ft one with no issues.
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May 7, 2020 02:10
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WattsvilleBlues posted:
They'll probably be fine, just keep that in the back of your mind if you do start seeing weird issues. I'd try to stay away from bundling different cables together because by removing the twist from twisted pair means you're taking away one of the biggest protections against interference/crosstalk. I'd probably prefer skinny cables before flat ones, but for short patch cables in a home user environment it'll probably be fine.
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May 7, 2020 02:12
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Buff Hardback posted:It's probably got the absolute cheapest radio, since that's 2x2 MU-MIMO at 20Mhz channels. Welp, that likely solves that! Lol. Thanks. Didn't realize there was spec of AC that could be that slow. Oh well, haha.
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May 7, 2020 07:05
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Cheers for the feedback goons. We have a TV in our garage so we can watch stuff while using the treadmill. At the moment we hotspot off our phones but I'd like to be able to get a decent WiFi signal there. The TV is about 20 feet away from the Ubiquiti access point (fed by Ethernet) in a back bedroom but it doesn't get a reliable signal. Any thoughts on a solution?
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May 7, 2020 12:57
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WattsvilleBlues posted:Cheers for the feedback goons. set up a usw-flex where the ap is currently installed to bifurcate the lan to the ap and the garage?
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May 7, 2020 13:07
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SlowBloke posted:set up a usw-flex where the ap is currently installed to bifurcate the lan to the ap and the garage? As in, run a cable to the garage?
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May 7, 2020 13:14
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WattsvilleBlues posted:As in, run a cable to the garage? Yeah, if there are issues with your AP coverage/signal penetration it's the best way to solve it.
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May 7, 2020 13:44
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SlowBloke posted:Yeah, if there are issues with your AP coverage/signal penetration it's the best way to solve it. Wiring a connection isn't really practical - the garage is not attached to the house. Should I be looking at a long range Ubiquiti access point?
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May 7, 2020 14:47
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WattsvilleBlues posted:Wiring a connection isn't really practical - the garage is not attached to the house. Should I be looking at a long range Ubiquiti access point? The issue might be the TV not being able to transmit to the access point, setting up a long range AP might not help in that case.
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May 7, 2020 15:10
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Yeah it doesn't matter how powerful your access point is if the device on the other end can't make it back to the AP. I try to not think too much about the RF engineering of cell phones because it just boggles my mind.
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May 7, 2020 16:55
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WattsvilleBlues posted:Cheers for the feedback goons. WattsvilleBlues posted:Wiring a connection isn't really practical - the garage is not attached to the house. Should I be looking at a long range Ubiquiti access point? I'd probably give powerline networking a try (from a place with a nice return policy in case it doesn't work out - it's highly dependent on your wiring). Look for AV1200 or better. You could then either wire up the TV directly (if feasible) for the best possible experience and/or throw another AP in there, preferably with lower transmit power so you aren't as likely to use the AP with powerline backhaul from another room.
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May 7, 2020 18:31
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astral posted:I'd probably give powerline networking a try (from a place with a nice return policy in case it doesn't work out - it's highly dependent on your wiring). Look for AV1200 or better. You could then either wire up the TV directly (if feasible) for the best possible experience and/or throw another AP in there, preferably with lower transmit power so you aren't as likely to use the AP with powerline backhaul from another room. I was going to suggest putting an access point in the garage and use it to mesh with the AP at the back of the house, so the TV would only need to connect to the AP a few feet away. Sound good?
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May 8, 2020 01:14
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Do I have to do anything in particular to get multiple devices connected through a switch connected to a Verizon Fios ONT? My setup is: ONT (in a closet) -> cheap Netgear GS305 pass-through switch -> ethernet cables running through walls to ports (only two of which are actually connected for now since nobody bothered to terminate the rest). I have a similarly cheap Archer C900 connected to one port at all times and that's fine, but as soon as I plug in a second device into the other wall outlet (laptop through ethernet) the connection drops. If I unplug/replug or reboot the router, it restores the connection and kicks off the laptop. Do I need to fiddle with DHCP settings on the router or do I need a managed switch or something? I'm not sure if there's anything else I could do besides connect the router directly to the ONT (swapping it with the switch) but then it would be stuck in a closet giving crappy signal.
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May 8, 2020 01:19
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WattsvilleBlues posted:I was going to suggest putting an access point in the garage and use it to mesh with the AP at the back of the house, so the TV would only need to connect to the AP a few feet away. Sound good? It should be fine if the wifi signal is solid enough where you plan to put one and if there isn't a bunch of e.g. metal shelving in between that and the TV. You'll still want to keep the transmit power on the new one as low as possible so other devices don't prefer it over the other nodes that are wired in.
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May 8, 2020 01:25
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eXXon posted:Do I have to do anything in particular to get multiple devices connected through a switch connected to a Verizon Fios ONT? My setup is: router needs to be routin It has to be connected to the ONT directly otherwise how can it route things that are on the WAN side of it?
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May 8, 2020 01:25
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Okay, I got two moca adapters and can’t quite get them to work. The coax line comes from the wall, through an amplifier, and then to a 3-way splitter I put in that is 2400mhz (with the physical filter on the input) That splitter goes to a cable tv box in one room, the internet modem in another room, and where I want to have internet through this system in a third room. The cable box is moca compatible and recognizes (one of) the adapters, but the adapters usually don’t recognize each other. It seems they want to communicate with the cable box, but only one at a time is usually recognized, and that adapter will have the link light on while the other one does not. If you go into the diagnostic menu on the cable box it recognizes one of the adapters and the other one will sometimes flicker on and off in the list of nodes on the network. Disconnecting/unplugging the cable box doesn’t seem to make it work though I have gotten it to work, I’m not sure how, occasionally the adapters will establish a connection successfully and the internet works, but I’m continuing to fiddle with the wiring because I may want to put more adapters in more rooms. I have no idea how to explain what it’s doing though, and as of writing this they won’t work and I’m not sure why. I disconnected the cable box line from the splitter and put another line on to try to find which room it goes to (most of the lines are unlabeled , cool!) and that caused the adapters to stop working even after I changed it back to the original configuration The cable box is a Cisco 8742HDC, the adapters are these https://www.amazon.com/MOTOROLA-Adapter-Ethernet-Bonded-MM1000/dp/B077Y3SQXR Finally, do I have to ground the splitter? The setup before I touched it had a 2-way, 1000Mhz splitter that probably had not been touched in 20 years, and was grounded to a pipe via copper wire. The wire wasn’t melted so I assume it had never been shorted by lightning or whatever in that time, should I put that back on? I am paranoid that doing so somehow will cause the adapters to not work by changing the electrical characteristics of the splitter, which sounds nuts but I have no clue what’s going on here anyhow icantfindaname fucked around with this message at 04:17 on May 8, 2020 |
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May 8, 2020 04:06
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Buff Hardback posted:router needs to be routin To be clear: ONT - > Wan port on archer - > Lan ports - > dumb stuff, devices, etc.
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May 8, 2020 04:43
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eXXon posted:Do I have to do anything in particular to get multiple devices connected through a switch connected to a Verizon Fios ONT? My setup is: The main purpose of the consumer router these days is to do network connection sharing. You get one IP address from your internet provider. The behavior you're seeing by losing connection when you plug two things in and one of them drops is because they can't both be assigned the same address. A router needs to go behind the ONT so that it can turn the address your ISP gives it (assigned to the WAN port on the router) into a bunch of internal addresses you can use for everything you've got connected to the internet (the LAN ports on the router). This is done by network address translation on the router and the router will also have a DHCP server to hand out local addresses. It seems like you have everything you need but it just needs to be arranged differently as mentioned by the other goons.
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May 8, 2020 05:56
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 So my wireless router and switch look like this, there are no other Ethernet ports on the other sides. I've ordered the appropriate cables from https://www.av-cables.dk/ but what exactly plugs into what here? Do I just go from LAN 1 on the router to Port 5 on the switch (it looks separate to the others?) then from 1,2,3 and 4 on the switch to the patch box on the wall? For now I'm just plugging a laptop into the other end of the wall so it no need to worry about power injectors (although I'm sure I'll have more stupid questions when that time comes).
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May 8, 2020 12:11
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Sri.Theo posted:
Yeah you can use a network cable to go from any of the LAN ports on that modem/router combo unit to the switch. Then you'll have 7 ports still free to hook up to whatever.
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May 8, 2020 12:16
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Rexxed posted:Yeah you can use a network cable to go from any of the LAN ports on that modem/router combo unit to the switch. Then you'll have 7 ports still free to hook up to whatever. Thanks, wasn’t sure if there were specialised ports or anything.
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May 8, 2020 12:26
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Sri.Theo posted:Thanks, wasn’t sure if there were specialised ports or anything. Not for that unit. They probably have it separated because a lot of switches are 8, 16, 24, 32 port, etc, and a metal surround for a cluster of 4 and another single one is mass produced more cheaply than one for 5.
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May 8, 2020 12:31
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astral posted:It should be fine if the wifi signal is solid enough where you plan to put one and if there isn't a bunch of e.g. metal shelving in between that and the TV. You'll still want to keep the transmit power on the new one as low as possible so other devices don't prefer it over the other nodes that are wired in. Is transmit power something that can be managed in settings?
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May 8, 2020 14:32
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WattsvilleBlues posted:Is transmit power something that can be managed in settings? On some routers, yes. However, most client devices don't have transmit power settings, so even if a device can receive signal from the router, if it doesn't have enough signal strength to reply to the router, it still won't work.
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May 8, 2020 17:00
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WattsvilleBlues posted:Is transmit power something that can be managed in settings? Yep - and individually for 2.4GHz and 5GHz.
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May 8, 2020 18:36
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Not networking exactly but I’m sure one of you would know. How long does docker typically lag behind an Ubuntu release before adding support? I’m getting ready to move most of my stuff over to Fossa and I’m not sure if we’re looking at a “check the page once or twice a week” or “come back around September” sort of situation.
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May 9, 2020 18:56
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For my own personal reasons that must not be questioned, I ran a cat6 direct bury cable into my back alley car port to plug an outdoor AP into. I'm curious as to the best method of securing the port. The topology is usg to switch, to POE powered outdoor switch to the back alley. I suppose the passive POE might be enough to fry some trespassers Ethernet. I could also physically secure it with some epoxy I'm sure.
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May 9, 2020 19:11
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Warbird posted:Not networking exactly but I’m sure one of you would know. How long does docker typically lag behind an Ubuntu release before adding support? I’m getting ready to move most of my stuff over to Fossa and I’m not sure if we’re looking at a “check the page once or twice a week” or “come back around September” sort of situation. For some reason docker seems to have been uninstalled when I upgraded from 19.10 to 20.04, but apt install docker just worked for me. LRADIKAL posted:For my own personal reasons that must not be questioned, I ran a cat6 direct bury cable into my back alley car port to plug an outdoor AP into. I'm curious as to the best method of securing the port. The topology is usg to switch, to POE powered outdoor switch to the back alley. I suppose the passive POE might be enough to fry some trespassers Ethernet. I could also physically secure it with some epoxy I'm sure. As in, secure it from unauthorized use? 802.11x EAP-TLS is the real answer here. Some systems will let you reset macsec on carrier loss but that seems obnoxious to fix each time you do a firmware update on your AP. Install a cert on your AP, trust it on your USG, and refuse access to anyone else. I'm making a bunch of logical leaps here on what the USG supports out of the box. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 19:13 on May 9, 2020 |
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May 9, 2020 19:11
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Just got an AC1750 for around $60 (are the prices in the OP that outdated, or did I get a hell of a steal?) and apparently I have Gigabit internet. I'm honestly surprised a router I bought only like six years ago didn't have gigabit ethernet, and I figured 100/100 was the limit my ISP was enforcing.
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May 9, 2020 20:44
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Joda posted:Just got an AC1750 for around $60 (are the prices in the OP that outdated, or did I get a hell of a steal?) and apparently I have Gigabit internet. I'm honestly surprised a router I bought only like six years ago didn't have gigabit ethernet, and I figured 100/100 was the limit my ISP was enforcing. Are you speed testing gigabit or are you just talking about the port speed?
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May 9, 2020 20:50
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astral posted:Are you speed testing gigabit or are you just talking about the port speed?  It has tested closer to 1000, but I think that's close enough that I can assume my connection is at least supposed to be gigabit?  E: Also, it was quite an experience to download an 8GB game in about a minute. Joda fucked around with this message at 21:00 on May 9, 2020 |
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May 9, 2020 20:57
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Joda posted:
Yep; congratulations on your 'free' internet speed upgrade. 
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May 9, 2020 21:07
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H110Hawk posted:For some reason docker seems to have been uninstalled when I upgraded from 19.10 to 20.04, but apt install docker just worked for me. I had tried that before with no success but now it works after taking another swing and a reboot. Damnedest thing, I usually don't have to bounce the box, but I'll take it.
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May 9, 2020 21:25
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Hey, if anyone has an Eero setup can you ping your main unit and let me know what your average latency is? Ideally make sure on the Eero app that it shows you're currently connected to the main unit and not one of the beacons, and that you're on 5ghz. Thanks a million.
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May 9, 2020 22:39
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Warbird posted:I had tried that before with no success but now it works after taking another swing and a reboot. Damnedest thing, I usually don't have to bounce the box, but I'll take it.  They seem to have moved it to their stupid snap program. I wish that program would go away. I love having several places to find packages and no way to disable automatic updates. `systemctl start snapd.docker.dockerd` did it.This is my solution, it's in my bashrc. Just need to add detection around the proxy already being there to not re-run it every time. quote:alias snap-off='sudo snap set system proxy.http="http://127.0.0.1:1111" && sudo snap set system proxy.https="https://127.0.0.1:1111"'
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May 9, 2020 23:15
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