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Loosen the screw and gently but firmly tap on the screw head while maintaining pull force on the handle itself. It it's really corroded on there, consider buying a gear puller. Many auto stores have a loaner program too. Also: Operating under the assumption that you have access to the back side of that wall.
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May 5, 2020 02:48
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PainterofCrap posted:Loosen the screw and gently but firmly tap on the screw head while maintaining pull force on the handle itself. I would also add using your favorite penetrating lubricant (Not WD-40, but something like P'Blaster, liquid wrench, etc), spray it, let it sit for 20 minutes, then do the same gentle tapping while pulling.
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May 5, 2020 03:44
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Heat also helps. Point a hairdryer at it for a few minutes
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May 5, 2020 12:01
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Motronic posted:Mine is an LG but basically the same layout/feature set which is what mattered to me. It replaced a side by side that fit in the same physical space, but somehow only held half as much, and made everything difficult to get at unless it was right up front.
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May 8, 2020 06:33
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SourKraut posted:gently caress LG and their "Linear Compressor" forever. I take it you've had problems with it? It's inverter based - just like all energy efficient minisplits, etc. That is not at all unique to them, they just have a marketing term for it.
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May 8, 2020 16:17
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Motronic posted:I take it you've had problems with it? It's inverter based - just like all energy efficient minisplits, etc. That is not at all unique to them, they just have a marketing term for it. This has nothing to do with it using an inverter, and everything with it being a poo poo design with poor manufacturing QC. For the first 3-5 years after they debuted the revised design for the current compressor, the poor QC and poor design resulted in the compressor failing within the first two years typically on a lot of units, but when it failed, debris can end up in the refrigerant line and ultimately cause further damage. LG's warranty was originally 10 years on the inverter, 1 year for labor, but they eventually had to update the labor to 5 years due to complaints and class action lawsuits against them and people having to pay significantly for repairs and/or wait extensive periods due to their poor certified/authorized service network. And when the units were repaired, it was typically with the same defective compressor, the refrigerant line wasn't purged/cleaned, and often the replacement compressor was a rebuilt used unit that at that point only carried a 90 day parts warranty. So yeah, "gently caress that poo poo".
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May 11, 2020 06:33
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Oh yeah ouch. I'll be pissed if that happens. But it's pretty much par for the course these days. QC is a thing of the past for pretty much any consumer product until you're at the very highest end (i.e. SubZero for fridges - which honestly kinda lag big time on features one would expect in a modern home fridge).
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May 11, 2020 17:41
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I'm trying to replace a terlet. The rough in (wall to bolt) measures at 13" on one side, and at 13.75" on the other. I had initially figured it was 14" when I measured the 13.75" one and didn't measure the other and started looking for 14" toilets. But now that I measured the other bolt at 13" it makes me wonder. It's not visibly askew but that obviously means it probably is. This certainly wouldn't be the first time that things didn't turn out to be at right angles in our house. The existing toilet seems to be made for 12" rough-in, based on the fact that the gap between the tank and the wall is pretty wide - about 2 inches. My other clue is that the bottom of the bowl is stamped 3027. When I google "American Standard 3027" the only one I find is this 12 incher: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/6603/American-Standard-Compact-3027-012.html However, that linked one is listed as 3027.012, which makes it sound like there might have also existed a 3027.014 - I can't find it though, if it ever did exist. Anyway the tip of the existing toilet's bowl is about 30" from the wall, and the above link says it should be 27.5", which checks out - that means the gap behind the tank should be 0.5", but is 2" instead. Anyway, the tank-wall gap being exactly only 2" (or even just under 2") makes me think that a 14" rough-in toilet won't fit - because if I'm correct that the existing toilet was made for 12", then if I get a similar 14" one I'm basically subtracting 2 inches from that gap, which puts me touching the wall. So am I correct in my conclusion that we should get a 12" rough-in toilet anyway and just allow the gap to exist?
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May 12, 2020 21:54
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What is the piece that the drain cover screws into for a tub called? I need a straight one so I can take my drain and vent pipe below my subfloor since I don't have enough clearance, but I can't find the right terminology for it.
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May 12, 2020 22:02
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Gothmog1065 posted:What is the piece that the drain cover screws into for a tub called? I need a straight one so I can take my drain and vent pipe below my subfloor since I don't have enough clearance, but I can't find the right terminology for it. Tub drain flange? 
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May 13, 2020 01:02
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pseudonordic posted:Tub drain flange? It's the elbow, but I need it straight since I don't have the clearance from the tub to the floor. Not sure Lowes even sells them, might have to get it online.
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May 13, 2020 06:08
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You want a set-up like this?
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May 13, 2020 14:49
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PainterofCrap posted:You want a set-up like this? Ok, so that answers the question I posted earlier in the thread. Is there any reason to try and cover the hole it just leave it open? It is in a closet and I will be covering the back of it, so no aesthetic reasons.
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May 13, 2020 16:34
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The hole in the floor? No, unless there's some kind of tub support that would sit there.
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May 13, 2020 23:15
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PainterofCrap posted:The hole in the floor? No, unless there's some kind of tub support that would sit there. Thank you, that is incredibly helpful! now to speed on my way to figure out how to frame this window that the previous owners were too lazy to do properly.
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May 14, 2020 05:09
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Hello plumbing thread. I need to replace my bathtub and redo all the valves, drains, and fixtures involved. My question is: is there an accepted "best all around" go-to brand for valves and fixtures? I have some aesthetic considerations, and I'm firmly in the mid-range price points, but, function over form, my main concern is quality operation and lifespan. It's one of the standard suburban built-in alcove tub/shower situations.
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May 15, 2020 05:39
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Go to an actual plumbing supply place and look at things like Newport Brass. Anything you get from Lowesdepot is likely to be garbage.
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May 15, 2020 13:14
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Not necessarily. Kohler, Grohe, Delta and Moen are all established brands with known reputation and available parts. The budget brands usually just copy their design. Edit: and some budget brands are actually owned by the above. Nitrox fucked around with this message at 14:22 on May 15, 2020 |
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May 15, 2020 14:18
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Nitrox posted:Not necessarily. Kohler, Grohe, Delta and Moen are all established brands with known reputation and available parts. The budget brands usually just copy their design. The versions of those that you will find in big box stores are almost universally crap. Actual plumbing supply stores have different lines of those products. This applies to a lot more than faucets. Take a look at the door handle/lock sets and you'll find the same thing. Then go over to where they have the chainsaws, mowers, etc and see the same once again.
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May 15, 2020 15:24
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Motronic posted:Go to an actual plumbing supply place and look at things like Newport Brass. Anything you get from Lowesdepot is likely to be garbage. Especially drains and traps. The difference in mass alone will tell you that buying from a plumbing supply house is the wise choice. I shall now devalue the above opinion by shilling for IKEA fixtures, especially bathroom sink. I've had three now, for almost 20-years. They're solid brass, weigh a ton, and the valves haven't failed yet. YES hookup can be a challenge, but once that's done they're fine. * offer does not extend to drain plumbing. That is complete poo poo.
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May 15, 2020 16:06
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When you say 'plumbing supply stores' do you mean super secret, only-plumbers-know kind of stores? Or does my local Standard Plumbing Supply store count? I'll also check out Ikea's fixtures! Those are attractive to me for a few reasons too. Thanks for the help!
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May 15, 2020 16:38
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Motronic posted:The versions of those that you will find in big box stores are almost universally crap. Actual plumbing supply stores have different lines of those products. My plumbing supply stores chainsaw section is surprisingly lacking. 
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May 15, 2020 16:44
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mutata posted:When you say 'plumbing supply stores' do you mean super secret, only-plumbers-know kind of stores? Or does my local Standard Plumbing Supply store count? <Yout_town_name> Plumbing or <some_family_from_yout_town> Plumbing supply almost certainly exists near you. They may or may not be open to the public, they may or may not have actual displays of fixtures. These places will most likely have the best prices. You can also go to the local fru fru bath and kitchen design showroom, look at their stuff, pick what you like and ask for a quote. Tell them you'll think about it. Then get back on the internet and put in the model numbers they conveniently gave you in the quote and see if you can get them for less (you can unless they are giving you trade pricing, which....they won't).
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May 15, 2020 16:44
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SpartanIvy posted:My plumbing supply stores chainsaw section is surprisingly lacking. I'm still on the phone trying to get a yale lockset myself. I think I hear laughing?
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May 15, 2020 17:08
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SpartanIvy posted:My plumbing supply stores chainsaw section is surprisingly lacking. Lol, I missed this as I replied. The 'ol switcheroo always delights.
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May 15, 2020 17:15
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That is a valid point but there is still an overlap what a supply and box store sells, sometimes it's the same item, sometimes it isn't. It's not necessarily because they are making a worse(cheaper) product to be sold at Lowes, it has something to do with how their contracts are structured. And also to avoid price matching. Not exclusive to plumbing, the Dewalt tools sold at Lowes and Home Depot, while exactly the same, may have different part/serial number. Hence the reason why Dewalt becomes Bostitch. Having said that, plumbing supply is a sure way to get a better product. Do not, absolutely do not order a brand that isn't supported by your local supply chain. A local developer, while building a condo, decided to splurge on Hudson Reed products. That's a British company that will only drop ship into US. Or at least that was the case back in 2012. Gorgeous products, solid brass and all, excellent reviews etc. Apparently wasn't very compatible with our water chemistry and pressure. Mixing valves started failing one by one, even within a warranty period. When that warranty ran out, developer paid $200 per replacement unit. I replaced a total of 24, and all the parts were getting shipped from England. They switched to Kohler for the next project.
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May 15, 2020 17:15
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SpartanIvy posted:My plumbing supply stores chainsaw section is surprisingly lacking. Bullshit, that's the standard plumber's tool for notching joists.
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May 15, 2020 19:42
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Upon reflection from my last visit I realized my plumbing store carries what I think is the entire Milwaukee tool line including their chainsaw and other lawn equipment.
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May 15, 2020 20:04
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Ok, so Dad is trying to do a "remodel" of the bathroom. So far he's doing alright, but mom wants a specific faucet, drain, and overflow drain plate. The problem is the old overflow plate was a single screw plate, and the new one uses 2 screws. Here is the link to the plate they are using. The old drain pipes are getting replaced (they were there before my parents moved in, and have recently started leaking) and new PVC is getting put in. The replacement for the part marked below has only a center screw hole. The center hole is threaded, and is an exact match for the plate screws.   There are two very little holes on the side, but they are below the center line and they are to small for the screws that came with the plate. Dad is planning to make a metal kludge plate and using shorter screws to get it to fit on(screwing the handmade plate and PVC part to together, then screw the overflow plate to the handmade plate), but I'm wondering if there is one of these in PVC that has the holes in the correct place. I've seen full brass kits and polypropylene kits that look like they have the correct shape, but Dad wants it in PVC. I've looked around, and no one seems to have it in PVC.
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May 17, 2020 02:50
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I've never done any plumbing in my life, and I would normally call a plumber for this, but I'm hesitant to have anybody come into my house right now for covid-related reasons. A few weeks ago, my bathroom sink started draining very slowly, like an hour for a cup of water to go down. Eventually it stopped draining all together. This hasn't been much of an issue; we just use a different sink. Now the same problem has appeared in the shower adjacent to that sink; you're left standing in 1/4th an inch of water after a short shower. Unlike the sink, the shower does eventually drain completely. If these are two separate problems that have cropped up independently at the same time, I'm reasonably confidant I can fix them by following a few youtube tutorials. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hySkwXMn0pA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CXSTSqv2QR8 However, if these are symptoms of a larger problem that goes beyond the drains, that's way outside my skill level. Is there anything I can do to further diagnose this problem before I get down in the muck?
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May 17, 2020 18:36
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Those sound like two different clogs since one drains and the other doesn’t. Most clogs are either junk caught in the strainer/stopper or in the trap. It’s less likely for you to get a clog much further down the line since the waste line will get bigger. I can’t think of a way to determine if this is a bigger issue without you taking drains apart. I’ve also used plungers to clear clogs as well and that is sometimes easier than trying to snake the drain.
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May 17, 2020 20:34
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Sounds like a simple clog to me. I bought a $20 or $30 snake that attaches to my drill at Home Depot and snaked my bathroom sink when it clogged and it's worked fine since then. I've also gone on to use the snake in my AC drain line and a landscape drain to good affect. It's a good tool to have. Snaking the drain really couldn't hurt unless you're on truly ancient plumbing still. Mine is 70 years old and its still very sturdy and had no issues being snaked vigorously.
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May 17, 2020 22:00
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I ended up snaking the shower since that's the most critical component. Pulled out a disgusting glob of hair and now it drains fine. I disassembled the sink, but the p-trap, drain and stopper were all clean. I tried running the cheap plastic snake past the gooseneck and up into the wall, but I could never pull out anything substantial. Running hot water and plunging it just pulls up black sandy gunk into the sink. I can live without that sink for a while, but it feels like I'm right on the edge of breaking through.
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May 17, 2020 22:50
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Lester Shy posted:I ended up snaking the shower since that's the most critical component. Pulled out a disgusting glob of hair and now it drains fine. Do you have an actual snake, or are you just trying to use one of those cheap plastic barbed things? If you have a snake, you can just run it through the sink drain as far as you can and see if that helps.
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May 18, 2020 17:07
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Just the little plastic barbed thing for now. I know we have an actual snake around here somewhere but I couldn't find it yesterday.
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May 18, 2020 21:22
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Lester Shy posted:Just the little plastic barbed thing for now. I know we have an actual snake around here somewhere but I couldn't find it yesterday. Those things are awesome for regular maintenance of getting hair out, but not a replacement for a snake. You're gonna needs to get way on in there.
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May 18, 2020 22:21
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PainterofCrap posted:You want a set-up like this? I've never seen a tub waste and overflow in this configuration. Side tapped tub shoe? Is this a real thing or some Handy Andy's modern art?
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May 21, 2020 17:17
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TURGID TOMFOOLERY posted:Any advice on next steps? Okay further research has been completed. The tank has plenty of water. I think the problem is that the bowl itself has too much water. So a powerful flush still doesn’t move all the mail down the pipes. This some mail is returned to sender. Q1. Does the hypothesis “too much water in the bowl means less complete flushes” make sense? From research, there are three factors that determine the water level of the bowl: 1. Water level of tank (we can change this) 2. U-pipes of the toilet (we can’t change this) 3. Clog down the toilet (we can change this) So I’m gonna: 1. get some toilet unclogging enzyme 2. Try lowering the amount of water in the tank and bowl. There’s such a large amount of water, maybe less will help the problem.
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May 22, 2020 03:30
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You know we can call it poo poo here right?
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May 22, 2020 04:23
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corgski posted:You know we can call it poo poo here right? Maybe the problem is he's making GBS threads in the mailbox and trying to send letters via the toilet?
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May 22, 2020 21:58
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