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Hello thread, Shopping for a nice roadster and have narrowed it down to Z3 or NB Miata. Any particular years/features to look at or avoid for the NBs? I am aware of the facelift and have no strong feelings about either version. There's a 10th anniversary for sale here with around 40k miles that looks to be in perfect condition, with complete service records, that is tempting me. Been reading some mixed opinions on the 6-speed in it though compared to the more common 5-speed. Thoughts and opinions most welcome! Looks like I can get a really nice NB for about the same money as an OK 4-banger Z3 which has me leaning more towards that option. I could stretch my budget to an NC but other than the folding hard top option there's nothing there that really excites me. And since I have a good daily driver ('16 330D) it'd be a sunny days only car anyway.
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May 10, 2020 20:57
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You already have a bmw with creature comforts. Why would you want another heavy luxury car? Weekend impractical fun car is obviously a Miata.
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May 10, 2020 22:32
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The 10AE gearbox is fine, but the 5 speed is smoother. You should check it out, though. (I might also be biased since I have a 10AE myself). Where are you located?
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May 10, 2020 22:55
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What's your budget and what's your goals for the car?
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May 10, 2020 23:32
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I am in Sweden and would like to keep prices around 6-8 k USD. Around here that gets me a really nice well maintained stock-ish NB with 40-70k miles, or barely into an early NC. Purpose and goal with the car is to keep it pretty much stock (have owned and modded many vehicles but these days I just want to drive them), just use it for some fun driving when the weather is nice. No track driving of interest.
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May 11, 2020 00:41
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I have an F30 BMW and an NB Miata and they are great complements to each other; you are making a good choice. I like my 6 speed in the Miata.
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May 11, 2020 04:53
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Steely Dad posted:I have an F30 BMW and an NB Miata and they are great complements to each other; you are making a good choice. I like my 6 speed in the Miata. Thanks for the input! I am going to look at the anniversary one tomorrow evening. Around 40k miles, hardtop (never used), good service history, always stored inside, never out in the winter. 6-speed, limited slip, Bilsteins, Alcantara interior, anything else notable about the anniversary NBs? Going to be fun to have a small roadster I think. The F31 (330D "luxury" Xdrive with M power kit) I have is an excellent car in every aspect but it's big and heavy and to be honest has a bit more power than quite necessary for enjoyable driving on small roads. Will post pics if I get it and maybe ask more dumb questions if I don't. There are some NCs around for almost the same price but I just don't like their looks.
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May 11, 2020 16:54
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Clayton Bigsby posted:Thanks for the input! I am going to look at the anniversary one tomorrow evening. Around 40k miles, hardtop (never used), good service history, always stored inside, never out in the winter. 6-speed, limited slip, Bilsteins, Alcantara interior, anything else notable about the anniversary NBs? Just buy that 10AE already 
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May 11, 2020 17:32
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I kick myself for selling my 10AE years ago. As far as the 6-speed it's a mixed bag. It lowers the RPMs slightly at highway speeds, but means you have to slightly over-rev (which it will let you do) or grab 3rd to get to 60 mph. And the 1-2 shift is not as clean as on the 5-speed.
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May 11, 2020 20:20
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Goober Peas posted:And the 1-2 shift is not as clean as on the 5-speed.  You can say that again.
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May 11, 2020 20:55
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BloodBag posted:In the process of wet sanding and polishing, I burned through the clear and base coats down to primer in a couple spots That's heartbreaking. As someone who is currently fighting with painting the calipers on their BMW I feel your pain on a much smaller scale. Don't give up, that paint job is going to be amazing when you finish it. Also gently caress covid. My Corbeau FX1 Pro showed up the other day and my seat rails won't be here for another 10+ weeks according to the supplier. Really praying they make it to my doorstep before Gridlife in August.
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May 12, 2020 19:15
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I'm so gutted about it I just want to throw in the towel.
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Great now I have to keep searching for a blown engine NC.
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May 13, 2020 23:39
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Wibla posted:Just buy that 10AE already I checked it out but passed on it. Didn't like the feel of the transmission at all. Might take a look at a 5-speed version or just check out an NC since they keep popping up here for attractive prices (and the folding hardtop is a nice feature).
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May 16, 2020 21:02
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Clayton Bigsby posted:I am in Sweden and would like to keep prices around 6-8 k USD. Around here that gets me a really nice well maintained stock-ish NB with 40-70k miles, or barely into an early NC. I have an E92 M3 with a DCT and a '92 NA standard Miata with zero options and 13" wheels, both are completely stock and they are a great pair of fun vehicles that are totally different. The Miata is quicker than most cars up to about 35-45 due to how light it is, and that's good enough in town for the most part for it to be entertaining. Squeezing through 4' gaps to make right turns is great, but I'm constantly aware how tiny the car is compared to most modern US cars and I know which one I'd rather be in if someone decides to run into me. The biggest thing I keep in mind is to not try the corners at the same speed the BMW goes around them... and also, wear sunscreen.  Actual Miata Thread question: I'm about to install a solar power trickle charger (I live in SoCal) for the Miata and it sits outside/away from a power outlet and hasn't been getting much use the last couple months/isn't my daily by any stretch - my research so far seems to indicate that the cigarette lighters in these are not 'hot' outside of the ACC/on position, is that correct? Which means I'll have to run the alligator clamps through to the trunk, is the cutout/whatever on the passenger side behind the seat?
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May 18, 2020 07:03
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Just get a battery tender ring connector thingy: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tend...89826650&sr=8-1 My trunk closes fine with this sticking out - should be simple to then connect the solar panel - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004Q83TGO/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_ksTWEbCDN4XP3
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May 18, 2020 19:31
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Well your name is Voltage so I should probably listen to you... but I already got this one - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X2WP5B7 on a recommendation from the general chat thread - don't you need to disconnect the solar panel before starting the car? (That's what the instructions on this one indicate), or do you just unplug the cable and put it in the trunk when you're using the car? This one came with a variety of plug options, the easiest is to just stick it in the cigarette lighter but if that turns off with the car then it isn't going to work, and the panel also came with a set of alligator clips to attach to the battery terminals which is likely how I'll end up running it, I suppose I could snake it out the door and into the trunk but sitting outside in LA who knows what idiot's gonna mess with that, so I will attempt to jam it through the rear trunk wall without drilling any holes if possible, I've just never looked behind either seat/removed the carpeting to see what's up back there. I'm currently watching the little indicator charge bulb as it sits in my west-facing window as the day goes on to see just how direct the sunlight needs to be. (not as directed as I expected so far, but it drops when I take it away from the window even to a sunny patch in the house.)
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May 19, 2020 00:43
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Dammit. There are two dolphin NC's on the market near me right now. That would be such a nice upgrade from my '08 PRHT Touring which is due for brakes, tires, and suspension soon. https://nwct.craigslist.org/cto/d/torrington-2013-mazda-mx5-grand-touring/7127240146.html https://worcester.craigslist.org/cto/d/rutland-2013-mazda-mx5-miata/7126056644.html I need to try to talk myself out of it this weekend.
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May 22, 2020 21:00
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whatever you do dont buy an nc from vt oh I guess there is a rutland in MA.. but that's still pretty close and from the pics i would say that certainly is not a car deserving 15 k. CT has some pretty good vehicles tho, much less salt issues and lots of old people who tend to garage their cars. That's where I got my NC. as a fellow 08 nc owner I also want to add you're nuts for considering upgrading to another nc. hell man as my car plummets in value im considering going back to NA or NB ethanol fucked around with this message at 21:22 on May 22, 2020 |
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May 22, 2020 21:11
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Anything low-mileage is pretty safe. I like the NC more than the NA/NB (especially for the PRHT) and can't justify an ND2 RF. I'd prefer the upgraded engine internals of the NC3s for eventual supercharging. And my '08 is my year-round DD here in NH, anyway. More salt than we know what to do with. I'd honestly be willing to hang on to it and throw some money into it if it had an LSD. But it doesn't, so I'm keeping my eyes open for my next one. And then there is this which, if it was a PRHT, I would probably be driving up to buy it right now because gently caress it, I can claim it's my mid-life crisis car, right? e: also don't go by KBB or whatever for the value of your NC if you live in New England. It's nowhere near accurate. The internet has told me a car was worth $3k when it sold within 24h for three times that. Another one went for about twice what Edmunds predicted it would go for. I usually skim AutoTempest for a ~200mi radius or so to get an idea of going prices. FreelanceSocialist fucked around with this message at 14:45 on May 23, 2020 |
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May 22, 2020 21:32
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get the nd2 rf
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May 22, 2020 22:48
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ethanol posted:get the nd2 rf I'd love to but for the current price of an ND2 RF I could pay someone to swap an LS engine into an NC. And that includes the cost of the donor NC. And the engine.
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May 22, 2020 23:07
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Buying some floor mats for my NC from Moss Miata, wonder if I should get door bushings at the same time. I'm fine with how stiff the car is now (PRHT, street only) and have Progress front and rear sways on, but I'm not sure what I'm missing. Worth the purchase?
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May 23, 2020 22:04
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Not unless the existing ones are shot and/or you're experiencing some rattling or creaking from the doors due to the OEM bushings not quite filling the door receiver. You're not really likely to notice a change in chassis stiffness unless you are a really, really aggressive driver IMO. It's more noticeable on NA/NB.
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May 23, 2020 23:00
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Well, after failing to love the NB I drove an NC and it was a different story. Picked up this '07 PRHT with 60k miles, always garaged and never driven in winter. Owner did some minor cosmetic mods that I am not 100% excited about so might remove those (some chrome stuff and a couple extra lights) but he was clearly a Miata nut who took excellent care of it. New brakes (pads and rotors) last year, recent service + inspection.  
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May 24, 2020 16:42
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Congrats! My NC PRHT has been really growing on me. I was thinking the other day that driving my NA was a conversation; the car always talked back. The NC is a better a listener. Not sure what suspension options are available where you live, but I swapped in Koni yellows and Progress springs/sways and it makes an enormous difference.
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May 24, 2020 17:27
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gently caress yeah. Welcome aboard, captain! I love the NA/B on the track but the NC is just a better daily driver and Mazda's PRHT is still one of the best out there. Grab a SmartTop module for it and a stubby antenna. The module seems like a frivolous thing but man is it a huge quality-of-life improvement.
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May 25, 2020 13:16
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FreelanceSocialist posted:gently caress yeah. Welcome aboard, captain! I love the NA/B on the track but the NC is just a better daily driver and Mazda's PRHT is still one of the best out there. Grab a SmartTop module for it and a stubby antenna. The module seems like a frivolous thing but man is it a huge quality-of-life improvement. Yep, it's on the list already. Also wouldn't mind a double DIN 6-7" screen system with Carplay to replace the stock radio and give me bluetooth and poo poo so going to look into options there too. Looks like there are plenty of units that'll do the trick for a reasonable sum, and modules to interface with the steering wheel controls as well. According to previous owner lore, the interior's non-stock. Supposedly the original customer did not care for any of that factory options so had all the leather redone after taking delivery. No clue how much truth there is to that though; any of you guys know if this color leather (with perforated leather on the seat) was available? Don't really care either way but it'd be fun to know. Other non stock: cruise control was added at some point, and what looks like an aftermarket heated seat setup (round button on the side of the seat instead of the center console).
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May 25, 2020 19:02
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Clayton Bigsby posted:According to previous owner lore, the interior's non-stock. Supposedly the original customer did not care for any of that factory options so had all the leather redone after taking delivery. No clue how much truth there is to that though; any of you guys know if this color leather (with perforated leather on the seat) was available? Don't really care either way but it'd be fun to know. The color is close to Dune Beige (an option on some years of the NC GT) but the stitching and panels are different (on the seats and the door inserts). The stock e-brake and shift boot would've been black. Here's a shot of an '09 GT with the stock Dune interior.
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May 25, 2020 19:54
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FreelanceSocialist posted:The color is close to Dune Beige (an option on some years of the NC GT) but the stitching and panels are different (on the seats and the door inserts). The stock e-brake and shift boot would've been black. Here's a shot of an '09 GT with the stock Dune interior. Cool, I guess the info I got was solid then. It feels like nice quality stuff and looks good so I am pleased with it. Thanks!
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May 25, 2020 19:56
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Clayton Bigsby posted:Cool, I guess the info I got was solid then. It feels like nice quality stuff and looks good so I am pleased with it. Thanks! I’ll buy your OEM head unit off of you if shipping to the US is reasonable
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May 26, 2020 06:46
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Almost forgot - Clayton make sure to check that the amp in whatever you get is compatible with the Bose speakers. The Bose tweeters (dash, rear center, two per door) are 3.6 ohm. The woofers in the doors are 1.2 ohm. Or just upgrade the speakers when you do the headunit. And blk - if you want that Bose headunit, you also want the amp that goes with it. It's not integrated. Clayton - it's behind the passenger seat.
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May 26, 2020 12:43
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Clayton Bigsby posted:Yep, it's on the list already. Also wouldn't mind a double DIN 6-7" screen system with Carplay to replace the stock radio and give me bluetooth and poo poo so going to look into options there too. Looks like there are plenty of units that'll do the trick for a reasonable sum, and modules to interface with the steering wheel controls as well.  Bluetooth works great for music and calling (well nobody can hear me without an external microphone but it works), gets pretty good GPS signal with the receiver stuck to the inside of dashboard, just behind the vents. Didn't manage to connect it to the OBD bluetooth thing so far though. There's even a reversing camera which is surprisingly useful for maximizing the tight spots in the city. There are ways to connect them to steering controls but I don't have any so  IIRC it was this one but on sale for like 40% off https://www.banggood.com/IMars-7-In...ur_warehouse=CN
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May 26, 2020 15:03
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Thanks for the info, guys! blk: shipping to the US is insanely expensive here so definitely not worth it. Didn't know about the weird impedance of the speakers nor about the separate amp. Is there anything that just plugs into the amp+speakers directly with no fuss or is it better to just bypass the amp and potentially replace speakers? I am not unhappy with the stock sound, just would like bluetooth and Carplay for navigation, as well as possibly adding a rear camera.
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May 26, 2020 19:50
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I've only done two NCs - my non-Bose and a friend's GT with Bose. My approach with both was to replace everything.
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May 26, 2020 20:51
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This mega hail damaged Miata showed up near me. I wish I knew more about what to look for to evaluate a miata. It's a '94 so I guess that means it has a slightly larger engine than earlier models? 
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May 26, 2020 22:00
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that hood is now wall art looks like a C package judging from the interior + power mirrors, so 99% chance it has a torsen. radiator might be needing a replacement ($100), wires/plugs ($50), tb/wp job ($100), the cam angle sensor might be dripping oil onto the heater core hoses ($60), new eccentric bolts and an alignment (~$200ish), and a full round of fluid changes ($150). outside of the hood and maybe doing a brake and/or clutch job, you can basically have the the thing running like a top for asking price + $1k in maintenance.
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May 26, 2020 22:08
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94+ has a 1.8L vs the 90-93 1.6L, definitely a nice bump in power. You also get airbags! You could also just drive it and not give a poo poo about maintenance if it's cheap enough. I bought an even more beat up '97 for $1200 with 195k miles, drove it for another 20k+ and sold it for more than I paid. It's a 90's Japanese car, if it's cheap enough just drive the bones off of it and enjoy. How much are they asking?
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May 26, 2020 22:26
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Damage doesn't look too bad. I bet you could pop most of those out. I fixed most of the hail damage on my old Jeep Cherokee over the course of a few podcasts and a six pack. But don't tell the seller that. Cheap Miatas are the best Miatas.
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May 26, 2020 22:28
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This is listed at $3500 so not quiiite at the "dont give a poo poo about it" level e: pretty sure I'd want to make a cheap-rear end one nicer anyway taqueso fucked around with this message at 22:31 on May 26, 2020 |
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May 26, 2020 22:28
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Got any more photos? Mileage? How are the tires?
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May 26, 2020 22:29
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