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It's cherry red when it's dripping off. It's on (pretty fresh) black asphalt, but it's definitely red when you poke at the puddle (it also looks red when the sun is hitting it.. this was pre-dawn with a phone camera flash lighting it up). I've only had to top off the oil once. I'm having to top off the transmission weekly. Not putting the old filter back on, it got dropped in a pan that had been used for oil changes. Don't want that getting in there.. It leaks oil too, but it's very obviously a different color and coming from the rear main seal. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:08 on May 18, 2020 |
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May 18, 2020 08:04
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Oh now HERE'S a new hell in regards to EZ30's. Remove the center pistons from the block. While the engine is apart (smartasses, I know some one would have said apply booooost) I will say (while I stare daggers at this engine I am trying to disassemble) that a closed block conversion and I can see you could make some truly absurd power - there is a fuckload of strength on the bottom end of the block. meanwhile I have a EJ208 that I have managed to pull down in a couple of hours.
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May 18, 2020 11:21
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Asking about someone else's Subaru for once. CVT on a '13 or '14 Outback, apparently the valve body has failed. Is that something an independent shop could replace part of rather than the entire thing? My mother got an estimate from a shop for $1500, so I'm assuming even if she needed to get the whole thing replaced she could get it done for cheaper by an independent shop. Unfortunately there probably aren't as many independent shops that work on Subarus on the SC/GA line as there are in CO.
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May 18, 2020 19:55
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Trying to diagnose a 2014 Outback 2.5L CVT here. I was hearing whining under load and confirmed it's all RPM based, nothing with moving down the road required. Had my wife rev it up and I'm hearing the whine from the belt but also I feel like I'm seeing a pulley/bolt wobble just a bit (or maybe that's my imagination). Here is a video with sound: https://streamable.com/2cco5h Looking at parts diagrams this looks like the crankshaft pulley bolt. Some random google suggests trying to tighten the bolt, I'm currently letting the car cool down before I touch all over it and possibly throw a torque wrench on it to see how tight it is. Any thoughts/tips? edit: talked to my former car mechanic buddy who thinks it sounds like an idler pulley but recommended I take the belt off and check each pulley before ordering replacements - OF COURSE I DON'T HAVE A 15MM SOCKET to take tension off the belt for removal, out of the loving 50+ sockets that I own, so time to buy more tools 
tangy yet delightful fucked around with this message at 01:38 on May 19, 2020 |
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May 18, 2020 23:17
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In January I lost my beloved little FiST to an unattentive driver and just replaced it with a new '20 WRX Base. This is my commuter, daily driver, and occasional family car, so I'm not going to be really going for power modifications or planning on auto- or rallycrossing it. I've been trying to figure out what's real and what's just hyperbole about the FA, so I wanted to check with you all to see what I should actually do to make sure I'm planning ahead to keep it going for the (hopefully) years I'll have it. Cobb was super nice and swapped my AccessPort over from the FiST, so I've got that (though I haven't installed it yet) and it seems like an air oil separator is a good idea. Is it reasonably safe to do the bottom tier ots Cobb tune? What brand of AOS is the best if I'm not going to be making more power than stock? Is there anything else I should plan on doing to help with reliability?
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May 19, 2020 01:33
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While it'd go into an 86, we share engines and I've looked closely at the Verus AOS. Probably overkill for your situation since you can plumb coolant to the AOS to warm up captured oil before it's returned to the pan.
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May 19, 2020 01:35
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I bought a Crawford AOS. Only one I've heard negative things about is the Perrin one and heard good things about the IAG one.
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May 19, 2020 01:47
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For every day driving without power stuff, the FA is a great motor. I'd highly recommend a stage 1 tune to remap the torque and throttle because it is awful from Subaru. It makes the car feel so much better. If you want to add power, then I can really get into the recommendations. The roadmap is full of traps and ways to waste money.
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May 19, 2020 02:14
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Would second the OTS tune. Stock map is worse than garbage.
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May 19, 2020 05:58
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Thanks for that, guys. Do I need to worry at all about things like walnut blasting or deleting the TGV OR EGR or are those mostly for higher performance applications?
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May 19, 2020 14:16
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I was at 72,000 miles when I started getting rough idle and power issues. Thought it might be the intake gunking up and asked to get it borescoped by my tuner. They said the intake looked fine and they wouldn't recommend a cleaning. It ended up being a borked spark plug. They then told me it's rare they get an FA with bad enough intake runners to justify the cleaning. But they do generally recommend an air oil separator. I deleted the EGR when I replaced my blown motor since it was out of the car anyways. A TGV delete got me 3 horsepower. Not worth the money if you ask me. It's probably better when you're 400+ horsepower.
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May 19, 2020 14:30
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Any recommendation for front and rear wiper blade for 2018 Crosstrek?
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May 19, 2020 15:18
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I believe the AI generic recommendation for wipers is Bosch Icon. I use the RainX stuff because it's everywhere and goes on sale a lot.
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May 19, 2020 15:55
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I tried buying a pair of wipers before and they didn't have the right connector or adaptor - is the Subaru connection type called something in particular?
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May 19, 2020 16:03
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 E: looked two posts up. Crosstrek should just have a hook style, what wiper blades did you buy that didn't work with it? Bajaha fucked around with this message at 16:23 on May 19, 2020 |
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May 19, 2020 16:10
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STR posted:I changed the filter 6 months ago. It started puking fluid about 2 months ago. The filter is tight enough that I can't move it by hand, and it's the exact same part number Carquest filter that came off of it. I just checked the old filter, and it still has its gasket. Guess what? Got more leverage on it and it was indeed loose as hell. Took 2 full turns.  No wonder the original was so hard to get off, I guess they really are supposed to be put on by the hulk.No more leak.
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May 19, 2020 17:19
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Bajaha posted:
The front wipers are the Slim Top ones
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May 19, 2020 17:26
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Asking about someone else's Subaru for once. CVT on a '13 or '14 Outback, apparently the valve body has failed. Is that something an independent shop could replace part of rather than the entire thing? My mother got an estimate from a shop for $1500, so I'm assuming even if she needed to get the whole thing replaced she could get it done for cheaper by an independent shop. Don't ever replace the valve body. The only part in them that goes bad is a $140 dollar solenoid you can buy off of ebay that fits both generations of Subaru CVT. It's an easy job on both generations, but the 2nd gen CVT is so much better since the valve body is on top of the transmission and can be accessed without dumping 8 quarts of CVT fluid on the floor. The first gen has the valve body buried in the transmission pan and would take three or four hours if you've never done it before. It's conceptually easy, just time consuming. If you really want save money you could dumpster dive a dealer's scrap dumpster for a bad valve body and scavenge spare solenoids from that since usually the torque converter solenoid dies long before the other five. The one thing about the 2nd gen is you need to jam some rags around the valve body since there's ample room to drop sockets down into the transmission. bonelessdongs fucked around with this message at 00:51 on May 20, 2020 |
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May 20, 2020 00:44
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STR posted:Guess what? Got more leverage on it and it was indeed loose as hell. Took 2 full turns. Nearly 200 mile emergency round trip, cruise set at 80 for most of it. Lots of smoke every time I came up to a stop for the first 30 minutes (since the cat was drenched in ATF, and it was 4 lane highway with stop lights for the first 15 miles - it got more miles today than what it normally sees in a month). Trans remained totally dry. Topped it off before leaving, still full when I got back. Managed 23.9 mpg. EPA rating is 26 for 100% highway, but AC on and cruise at 80 is probably a bit outside of the EPA rating cycle (cruise kept it hunting between 3rd and 4th), and there was about 50 miles of city driving. It was getting kinda sloppy once I was back in town (no flaring, but sluggish upshifts), but it was right at 100 out, with a tired transmission that's been run dry by the PO and run low by me, and everything was pretty heat soaked by that point. I'm sure it could benefit from a proper external cooler. The 2.5 is seriously underpowered for this thing to begin with, so 26 sounds pretty optimistic unless you're doing 55. Temp gauge never budged. tl;dr hulk on the E4AT filters I guess.
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May 20, 2020 02:34
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The Slack Lagoon posted:Any recommendation for front and rear wiper blade for 2018 Crosstrek? I run Bosch Envision for front since the icon doesn’t have the mount they use in the front, and Bosch Icon for rear on my 19 crosstrek
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May 20, 2020 16:22
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Good news, we've all been given an upgrade.
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May 20, 2020 17:20
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I'm the crooked decal.
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May 20, 2020 18:22
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The canted logo connotes speed!
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May 20, 2020 18:32
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Do you want the good news or bad news? $2750 to do the head gaskets That's more than I paid for the car That includes the water pump but not the radiator they already replaced Not sure if it includes tax On the other hand I'm stuck in some backwater town in the middle of loving nowhere with no cars for sale and the nearest town that does is 30 mins away so nobody's gonna drive out here to maybe sell me a car I might not buy... I think i'm gonna have to eat the cost. gently caress.
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May 25, 2020 22:17
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If it's already toast and you're looking at just buying something else... Might as well keep it topped up with coolant and send it. How far do you have to go?
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May 26, 2020 01:52
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Well I got the oil pan off the car but the old owner installed an aftermarket header which interferes with its removal so I guess that is coming off too. For gaskets between the heads and exhaust manifold and manifold -> cat, is fel-pro (or someone else) okay? Subaru is asking like almost 3 times more for OEM. Also I had a torn steering rack bellow I just replaced and the outer tie rod as well since the rubber boot on that was pooched too, but I lost the jam nut somehow  will look again tomorrow but if I can't find it is it just a regular jam nut or is is some special Subaru part that has to be OEM?
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May 26, 2020 06:44
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Bajaha posted:If it's already toast and you're looking at just buying something else... Might as well keep it topped up with coolant and send it. I am currently living in the small place. It'd be repeated 30 min drives each way to the nearest real town until I found and bought a suitable replacement car. I'm pricing up replacement engines because lol they're seeming cheaper. I'd look into going EJ but I'd have to reregister the car and get an licenced auto engineer to sign off the modification so gently caress that. For future reference, can head gaskets be done preventatively? Or semi-preventatively like when my car smelt faintly of coolant but the temp gauge was rock steady pegged at normal?
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May 26, 2020 06:50
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simplefish posted:I am currently living in the small place. Head gaskets most certainly can be done preventatively. It's less work too as the heads wont need to be as much made flat. Just be wary of replacement engines that havent had head gaskets done as you might well be settign yourself up fo rthe same issue. But hell, even a reconditioned engine shouldnt be as much as the quote you got so it's prolly your best solution. An EZ30 really inst the hardest thing to swap in and out. If oyu live in a colder area.... well the thing about an EZ30 with leaking head gaskets is that they may well work for a long time esp if you throw in some head gasket seal in the radiator. The car I'm working on apparently had been showing signs of blwing gaskets for like.... 9 months before it detonated.
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May 26, 2020 07:00
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Head gaskets most certainly can be done preventatively. It's less work too as the heads wont need to be as much made flat. Just be wary of replacement engines that havent had head gaskets done as you might well be settign yourself up fo rthe same issue. But hell, even a reconditioned engine shouldnt be as much as the quote you got so it's prolly your best solution. An EZ30 really inst the hardest thing to swap in and out. It already exploded my radiator, sadly. Don't want to do it again. Good to know about the preventative gasket change. I had thought that it was coolant dripping slowly onto a hot exhaust or something, and yeah, that was months ago I first noticed it. simplefish fucked around with this message at 07:38 on May 26, 2020 |
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May 26, 2020 07:36
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Electrical issues? On a Subaru? WHY I NEVER So occasionally while idling I hear what sounds like a phone on vibrate for a second here and there. Drove me nuts until a few days ago when it went nonstop for about 2 minutes after shutting off the car. It's a vibration-type noise. It was vibrating the parking brake handle, and to a lesser degree, the shifter console The only thing in that immediate area is the center diff, AFAIK. It's an automatic 03 Outback, so the center diff is electronic. Ideas?
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May 26, 2020 11:11
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The second best Subaru ever made - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L5zKwbg-pjo And it was the base of what the best Subaru ever made came from. Also to be THAT guy but at that time they were all WRX's - the STI was the trim level and not a separate model. Also the WRX STI was not the homologation car which is why you never really saw 2 door WRX's in rallying outside of the WRC cars - the RA (four door base) was the one you wanted for that Also much to my surprise I know this particular car.
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May 26, 2020 11:19
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Asking about someone else's Subaru for once. CVT on a '13 or '14 Outback, apparently the valve body has failed. Is that something an independent shop could replace part of rather than the entire thing? My mother got an estimate from a shop for $1500, so I'm assuming even if she needed to get the whole thing replaced she could get it done for cheaper by an independent shop. FYI, one day I received a letter from Subaru saying the CVT warranty on my 2017 FXT was extended to ten years. Before doing anything see if thats also in effect on this Outback.
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May 26, 2020 11:59
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Also the WRX STI was not the homologation car which is why you never really saw 2 door WRX's in rallying outside of the WRC cars - the RA (four door base) was the one you wanted for that I know at least with Honda Civics, the coupes tended to be significantly heavier than the SEDANS (by a few hundred pounds), between the much heavier doors/side impact beams and I assume a beefier B pillar. I assume that's also the case here?
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May 26, 2020 17:07
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I’ve also heard that Civic coupes are a compromise for the US market?
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May 26, 2020 17:10
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STR posted:I know at least with Honda Civics, the coupes tended to be significantly heavier than the SEDANS (by a few hundred pounds), between the much heavier doors/side impact beams and I assume a beefier B pillar. I assume that's also the case here? Yes. The 2.5RS coupes are heavier than even the wagons in 98-01, so it's probably similar in the Aus/Japanese market's equivalent chassis. Back in the V5, Subaru was still building WRX STIs to be fairly hardcore so the extra spot welds are probably adding weight too, even if they shed some of the interior sound deadening.
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May 26, 2020 17:17
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Asking about someone else's Subaru for once. CVT on a '13 or '14 Outback, apparently the valve body has failed. Is that something an independent shop could replace part of rather than the entire thing? My mother got an estimate from a shop for $1500, so I'm assuming even if she needed to get the whole thing replaced she could get it done for cheaper by an independent shop. It's one piece thing I'm told. I'd call Subaru and complain first.
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May 26, 2020 18:50
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Did rear wheel bearings on the 05 STi, it took about 5 hours. Insanely easy as compared to the dumpster fire that was the 00 legacy rear wheel bearings. I think i could get it down under 4 next time.
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May 26, 2020 19:36
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Asking about someone else's Subaru for once. CVT on a '13 or '14 Outback, apparently the valve body has failed. Is that something an independent shop could replace part of rather than the entire thing? My mother got an estimate from a shop for $1500, so I'm assuming even if she needed to get the whole thing replaced she could get it done for cheaper by an independent shop. This may be useful? More info If her Outback's under 10 years/100k miles, she should at least take it in to see if the warranty covers it. pseudonordic fucked around with this message at 19:55 on May 26, 2020 |
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May 26, 2020 19:51
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Sadly it just passed that, multiple cross-country trips to Atlanta from Colorado (and then driving cross-country to move to GA). I'm still in CO so my ability to help hands-on is not really there.
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May 26, 2020 19:59
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Sadly it just passed that, multiple cross-country trips to Atlanta from Colorado (and then driving cross-country to move to GA). I'm still in CO so my ability to help hands-on is not really there. They will give you something if you call, even if you are past the mileage.
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May 26, 2020 20:16
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