Elysium posted:I haven’t talked to the guy yet but it’s a typical Facebook marketplace post that barely says anything except that it runs on 220 and “router not included” I’m guessing he means the actual router and not the table insert but you never know. Is there like a 40 character limit on marketplace ads? Yeah to me that's still a good deal if it comes with the router table as well. I think that motor also can be easily rewired to 110v but don't trust me on that. Buying that longer fence alone is $$ If for some reason my current (Craftsman 110 w/ splitters, shorter sized Delta fence, new pulleys and linkbelt, PALS, etc) tablesaw was stolen or destroyed, I'd def buy that one if it ran and wasn't obviously hosed up on final inspection.
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2020 13:08
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 2, 2024 20:21 |
|
|
I need to do some maintenance on my beech countertops. I used some sort of food safe varnish last year, applied 2-3 layers, but now there's some obvious wear marks in certain areas. Since I have to sand it down anyway, I'm thinking maybe I should oil it instead. What's the consensus on oil vs varnish for a countertop? shut up blegum fucked around with this message at 13:57 on Jun 8, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2020 13:52
|
|
|
Always use extra virgin if in a kitchen
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2020 13:56
|
|
|
shut up blegum posted:I need to do some maintenance on my beech countertops. I used some sort of food safe varnish last year, applied 2-3 layers, but now there's some obvious wear marks in certain areas.
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2020 14:19
|
|
|
shut up blegum posted:I need to do some maintenance on my beech countertops. I used some sort of food safe varnish last year, applied 2-3 layers, but now there's some obvious wear marks in certain areas. Sanding in a kitchen is so nasty. Have you considered using scrapers? Also, varnish has been oil based forever and only recently has a water based version come into play.
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2020 16:37
|
|
|
Mr. Mambold posted:Sanding in a kitchen is so nasty. Have you considered using scrapers? Also, varnish has been oil based forever and only recently has a water based version come into play. Not really no. There are all those little edges, behind the sink, round the cooker (?), that are a bitch to sand, and even harder to scrape I'd imagine. When I think 'oiling it', I imagine just pouring oil on it until the wood absorbs it all. Opposed to varnishing it, where I use a brush to apply several layers of varnish. That's probably not how it works though? 
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2020 16:54
|
|
|
shut up blegum posted:Not really no. There are all those little edges, behind the sink, round the cooker (?), that are a bitch to sand, and even harder to scrape I'd imagine. I'd imagine you'll use some sort of tape to protect the appliance edges so sharp scrapers and chisels would be less messy, you could sand behind the sink or just skip that, w/e. It's your funtime. I don't know that there's any prescribed method of applying a finish over any other. Depends on what result you want.
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2020 17:00
|
|
|
I've never tried this myself, but I've read that some folk use an electric plane to remove varnish. Less dust than sanding.
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2020 18:12
|
|
|
First Time Caller posted:Does anyone have a kobalt table saw? Mine is the KT10152 and the slides that move the fence have a lot of play, even with the fence lock lever engaged. If I bump the fence it can move a quarter inch on either end. Anyone know if this is fixable? If anyone runs into this there are nuts on either side of the slide lock mechanism underneath the table. Tightening the nuts will change pressure applied to either side of the fence slides. Fence slides are now rock solid and I no longer feel the need to return this thing.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2020 04:34
|
|
|
I'm rebuilding a wind chime I made awhile back, since the old one was falling apart. After spending half an hour wrestling with fishing line to get the chimes and striker hanging properly, I discovered that I made the striker too big and/or spaced the chimes too tightly and they're in contact when hanging loose. Gonna have to cut the striker loose, cut it down in size (and it's like a 2" diameter puck so that'll be kinda fiddly), and re-sand and re-finish it. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2020 17:49
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:I'm rebuilding a wind chime I made awhile back, since the old one was falling apart. After spending half an hour wrestling with fishing line to get the chimes and striker hanging properly, I discovered that I made the striker too big and/or spaced the chimes too tightly and they're in contact when hanging loose. sounds like you need a lathe.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2020 18:24
|
|
|
JEEVES420 posted:sounds like you need a lathe. To be fair that’s true in almost every case.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2020 18:42
|
|
|
JEEVES420 posted:sounds like you need a lathe. If you wanna give me a lathe and an extension to my shop so I can fit it in there, please feel free!
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2020 18:52
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:If you wanna give me a lathe and an extension to my shop so I can fit it in there, please feel free! Ya knooooow, those Jet benchtop lathes are surprisingly capable and can be found second hand for $100 or less here or there.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2020 19:40
|
|
|
The junk collector posted:Ya knooooow, those Jet benchtop lathes are surprisingly capable and can be found second hand for $100 or less here or there. um...where? Even the 1015 can't be found for less than $300 within 500 miles of here.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2020 20:47
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:If you wanna give me a lathe and an extension to my shop so I can fit it in there, please feel free! improvise with a drill press.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2020 21:28
|
|
|
JEEVES420 posted:um...where? Even the 1015 can't be found for less than $300 within 500 miles of here. I got my first lathe (the previous version of the Jet 1015) for $75 in Dallas with a set of Harbor freight chisels. It was an absolute steal. But I've seen em pop up in the Rural Pennsylvania and West Virginia area several times in the approximately $100 range when I lived there. Mainly it's people upgrading to something bigger. Prices on lathes are oddly cyclical and they'll be expensive for a while, then cheap for a while, then go back up. I guess you can only turn so many bowls and baseball bats before you run out of places to put them. You also have to be willing to drive a bit. If it's near the city core or close in suburbs mini lathes will usually get picked up in minutes if they are a good price. I've had wildly different success on Craigslist and the like depending on where I am. Craigslist in Dallas is great while Austin where I currently am mostly sucks. I'm fortunate enough to drive around between cities a lot for work so I sometimes pick things up and bring them back when I'm out and about. For instance, there is a craftsman lathe in Corpus Christi right now for $15 that needs a motor. It's a bit big but for a $50 trip to harbor freight for a new motor and belt you'd have a reasonably capable lathe. There's a Reliant mini lathe in Houston right now for $75, but those aren't nearly as nice as the Jets.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2020 21:44
|
|
|
Mr. Mambold posted:improvise with a drill press. I've always been scared of loving up the drill press. Its one job is to drill straight and I'm worried that putting lateral forces on it (that it's not designed to handle) would gently caress that up.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2020 22:43
|
|
|
The junk collector posted:I got my first lathe (the previous version of the Jet 1015) for $75 in Dallas with a set of Harbor freight chisels. It was an absolute steal. In Dallas you have to be checking Craigslist drat near every hour for what your looking for and then it might take a month to find a great deal. A whole lot of poo poo on there asking way too much and any good deal gets grabbed up in minutes. I missed out on a Jet 6" long bed jointer for $300 (why does this seem to be the magic number) because I thought about it for a minute. I did however luck upon an unused HF metal lathe on there for $300 which was a steal.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2020 23:46
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:I've always been scared of loving up the drill press. Its one job is to drill straight and I'm worried that putting lateral forces on it (that it's not designed to handle) would gently caress that up. The drill chuck will pop right off and probably break your foot. They’re just a pressure fit into a taper.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2020 23:56
|
|
|
Mr. Mambold posted:improvise with a drill press. I tried this recently when I had 8 knobs to turn, I had such a terrible experience doing one knob. So I drove 2 hours to get my benchtop lathe I had stored at my inlaws farm and brought it home, way better with the real thing.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2020 02:05
|
|
|
Does anyone have experience building a door and frame from scratch? I'm building a shop/chillout room in my basement. I've got the framing and walls up, and I just need a door. It's a weird size, so I gotta go custom. My plan was: 1. Cut/attach doorjambs 2. Measure, make simple door out of plywood and kiln dried 1x4, cheap handset, and strap hinges (don't wanna deal with mortising) 3. Place hinges and catch plate, hang door How much of a gap should I leave between the frame and the door? What are some common pitfalls to watch out for?
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2020 02:53
|
|
|
eddiewalker posted:The drill chuck will pop right off and probably break your foot. They’re just a pressure fit into a taper. Was surprised to discover this the first time I assembled a drill press. Once I discovered this, I made drat sure all my heavy cuts were perfectly vertical. Never use a drill press for anything that exerts any significant radial force (endmills, turning... anything designed for a mill, router, or lathe)
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2020 02:58
|
|
|
HolHorsejob posted:Was surprised to discover this the first time I assembled a drill press. Once I discovered this, I made drat sure all my heavy cuts were perfectly vertical. What about those sanding drums that vaguely imitate an oscillating spindle sander?
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2020 03:12
|
|
|
My lathe centres and chuck are also just pressure fit into a taper, but I guess gravity isn't actively trying to pull it out...So maybe lay your drill press down when you use it.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2020 03:29
|
|
|
What's a reasonable price for used pipe clamps? Found someone selling 12 clamps of various sizes for $165 but I'm not sure that's a reasonable price
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2020 03:40
|
|
|
HolHorsejob posted:Does anyone have experience building a door and frame from scratch? I'm building a shop/chillout room in my basement. I've got the framing and walls up, and I just need a door. It's a weird size, so I gotta go custom. My plan was: I built a custom door for my workshop:   I made mine heavy, out of tongue-and-grooved kiln-dried 2x6s with 1x6 boards screwed down on top of them to keep the door from sagging and add aesthetics. I like heavy doors, but that did make it a bit of a pain to hang. I did also recess my hinges; it really wasn't that bad. You can trace around the hinge to mark the area to be routed out and then just freehand it. I made my door too wide at first and had to lop some off with a circular saw...the advantage of that though is that I was able to creep up on the right size pretty easily. For an interior door I don't think the exact gap size is super-critical -- you can hide them with trim, so all that matters is that it's not so huge that the latch mechanism can't engage. But it's helpful, if you do end up too large, to have some meat on the frame that you can lop off without compromising the door's structure. The other thing to keep in mind is that you need some clearance on the floor and up top or the door can't swing / will get stuck on small debris. I have about a half-inch of clearance at the bottom of mine, which seems to work decently. The need for that clearance means you need some way to support the door while you're hanging it. I freehanded mine by sticking it on my (steel-toed) boot and holding it with one hand while I drilled screws with the other. I do not recommend this approach. The Slack Lagoon posted:What's a reasonable price for used pipe clamps? Do they include the pipes? Metal pipe adds significantly to the cost of pipe clamps.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2020 03:50
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:Do they include the pipes? Metal pipe adds significantly to the cost of pipe clamps. Yes, depending on the clamp the pipes are 24-48"
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2020 03:58
|
|
|
That's a pretty good price then, yeah.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2020 04:03
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:I built a custom door for my workshop: Thanks for all the tips. Thankfully, I have a husband I can conscript to help me hang the door. And good thinking on giving the door a little extra, I guess you can always trim a little. I'll be sure to keep the fasteners away from the edge.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2020 07:16
|
|
|
more falafel please posted:What about those sanding drums that vaguely imitate an oscillating spindle sander? I have one and it's not press fit, the chuck has a set screw up through it that attaches to a spindle and the spindle has a set screw that goes into a slot cut in its side.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2020 07:41
|
|
|
HolHorsejob posted:Does anyone have experience building a door and frame from scratch? I'm building a shop/chillout room in my basement. I've got the framing and walls up, and I just need a door. It's a weird size, so I gotta go custom. My plan was: Hanging a door and frame is a surprisingly involved process, even with a premade door and premade frame kit. I'm not sure if it's available in the states but I've found the Manual of First and Second Fixing Carpentry to be a valuable resource for all that sort of stuff. Physical copy recommended because of size and diagrams.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2020 12:30
|
|
|
Meow Meow Meow posted:I tried this recently when I had 8 knobs to turn, I had such a terrible experience doing one knob. So I drove 2 hours to get my benchtop lathe I had stored at my inlaws farm and brought it home, way better with the real thing. Okay. he could possibly find a hole saw of the correct diameter.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2020 16:37
|
|
|
Ordered a new table saw  And also new dust collection.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2020 17:11
|
|
|
I've done the hole saw thing, it works okay I guess as long as your board is thin enough (< .75"?). If you have to cut it in from both sides then my experience is the finish on the side of the resulting circle will be too rough to get a good result. It's OK, I just roughed out a new circle on bandsaw and smoothed it with the belt sander. I'm waiting for the glue on a new sail and then I can start finishing again.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2020 17:21
|
|
|
Jaded Burnout posted:Ordered a new table saw  Did you wind up going with something with a sliding table? Interested in how that works.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2020 17:24
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:I've done the hole saw thing, it works okay I guess as long as your board is thin enough (< .75"?). If you have to cut it in from both sides then my experience is the finish on the side of the resulting circle will be too rough to get a good result. I'd have done it on a bandsaw and pfft. You can cut to a pencil line accurate, so it's not like the chimes care
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2020 17:28
|
|
|
Jaded Burnout posted:Ordered a new table saw Make a youtube about it. Seriously. also, rainy night in 
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2020 17:29
|
|
|
Mr. Mambold posted:I'd have done it on a bandsaw and pfft. You can cut to a pencil line accurate, so On the one hand, you're right. On the other hand, I care. I hate staring at slapdashed work every day.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2020 17:39
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 2, 2024 20:21 |
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:On the one hand, you're right. On the other hand, I care. I hate staring at slapdashed work every day. You stare at your windchimes too, eh? As long as you end up with ten fingers on both of those hands when the job is done.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2020 17:49
|
|