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Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Harry Potter on Ice posted:

Oh um that's further than I planned and apparently I'm using the wrong language. I just bought a huge jug of this dalys stuff so it's what I use for everything working 200-400 wet sanding (which apparently I maybe dont want to do because I can burnish the wood easily) and this is the first time I've put anything on maple. From what I briefly read online people said maple can turn out blotchy if you dont condition it, I didn't realize that was a thinned coat I thought it was a different liquid like uh... a shampoo conditioner thing haha

I'm gonna stop here either at 150-180 and see where it's at. The wood is relatively green and checking and the whole project is a fun experiment so who knowssss. I've already learned to switch sanding pads out much earlier than I normally would
Oh yeah sorry-I see what you were asking now. If you aren’t adding any color (either with a pigmented/dye stain) you don’t need a conditioner. You may get some darker areas naturally in the wood, but if you’re oiling it and not adding color, there’s not much you can do about that. Usually maple takes oil pretty consistently ime.

Maple and cherry (alder too I think?) have wild grain in them sometimes that absorbs stains/dyes differently from the rest of the wood and can make them blotchy. A conditioner blocks up some of those pores in the woods and makes the stain apply more evenly and give a more consistent color. Some people call it blotchy and think it’s a defect, some people call it figure and go wild over it.

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MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Those are neat shelves-I've not seen them before. Putting a bolt through shouldn't hurt anything, but I don't think it's at all necessary. If you wanted to make it even stronger, make the two outside pieces out of 3/4" ply instead of a solid wood 1x3 and then put a bolt through that and the stud if you want. Glued and screwed/nailed to the stud is waaay plenty strong though.

For spacing, think about what the tallest thing you want to put on them is and make sure there is enough space for that. I'd say 12-18" apart is a good starting point? I wonder if you drilled holes in the horizontal parts like for a bolt and through the studs if you could make them adjustable? Probably lose some strength/weight capacity though, but maybe not if you used ply for the 1x3s.

As far as glue, regular Titebond with the red label is the best Titebond for 95% of stuff. The stuff they put in TBII and III to add better water resistance makes the glue less stiff and more prone to creep and has a more visible glueline. You only need TBII or II if it is going to be regularly soaked in water like a cutting board or unpainted exterior stuff. TB III is actually the worst about creeping, and is much more likely to fail at higher temps than original or II. That being said, I think for what you are doing, whichever you have on hand will be more than fine fine. They are all good glue.

I banged these out in my back yard last night ... God I need a workshop.

I made the plywood supports almost twice as wide and then cut the tapers on a really crummy sled I made, but it seems like it worked. The plywood supports have a lot more glue surface area so I suspect they are significantly stronger than the others. I wish I had thought to use plywood, but Matthias's initial plans were stingy and I had a ton of 2x4s lying around and only a little bit of scrap 3/4" plywood.


Harry Potter on Ice
Nov 4, 2006


IF IM NOT BITCHING ABOUT HOW SHITTY MY LIFE IS, REPORT ME FOR MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HIJACKED

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Oh yeah sorry-I see what you were asking now. If you aren’t adding any color (either with a pigmented/dye stain) you don’t need a conditioner. You may get some darker areas naturally in the wood, but if you’re oiling it and not adding color, there’s not much you can do about that. Usually maple takes oil pretty consistently ime.

Maple and cherry (alder too I think?) have wild grain in them sometimes that absorbs stains/dyes differently from the rest of the wood and can make them blotchy. A conditioner blocks up some of those pores in the woods and makes the stain apply more evenly and give a more consistent color. Some people call it blotchy and think it’s a defect, some people call it figure and go wild over it.

Great, thanks. I always appreciate your responses but especially when you tell me that things that I think are my mistakes are uh... "organic" features heh. Maple is exhausting compared to cedar holy smokes lol

Stan Taylor
Oct 13, 2013

Touched Fuzzy, Got Dizzy

Trampus posted:

Hey guys, I could use some advise on how to finish off a project. I built my tortoise a house but I'm not sure what type of roof to put on it. I'd like to keep it simple since I'm not that handy so one that's higher on one side and slopes in one direction seems like a good idea to me but I'm not sure.

Here's what it looks like right now,



It's about 4.5 feet wide by 5.5 feet long. It'd like a little overhang over the at least two sides, the ones facing the camera because they have doors and I'd rather not have water running over those openings. We get monsoons here so it's going to get pretty wet a few times a year.

I'm thinking of doing a simple overhang like this,



but I've never built anything like that and don't know how hard it is even though it looks fairly simple.

Do you guys have an suggestions/tips/advises?
I humbly request that you post tortoise.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Trampus posted:

Thanks. Any suggestions for what size lumber I should use for the rafters? 2x4s seem like overkill for this. I can get my wife to lend a hand if needed but I'd rather avoid that. We always get into fights whenever I try to have her help.

It's tiny enough, you can probably build it on the ground and jack it on up there yourself if you have turtle forklift extensions.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!
Has anyone tried making their own interior doors here? I'm trying to figure out if its worth it, I have an entire household of interior doors to put up as I currently don't have any or even have the doorways framed out. I'm only considering this because I could make every door 84" tall if I made them myself and solid core doors aren't cheap. I've looked at a few methods I found and was even considering welding up a type of frame and doing a steel/wood door.

I already have almost all the tools to do this and if I'm doing the whole house making up the fixtures for the hinges wouldn't be a big deal. I really want to get back into woodworking and this would be the perfect excuse, any thought?

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



SpeedFreek posted:

Has anyone tried making their own interior doors here? I'm trying to figure out if its worth it, I have an entire household of interior doors to put up as I currently don't have any or even have the doorways framed out. I'm only considering this because I could make every door 84" tall if I made them myself and solid core doors aren't cheap. I've looked at a few methods I found and was even considering welding up a type of frame and doing a steel/wood door.

I already have almost all the tools to do this and if I'm doing the whole house making up the fixtures for the hinges wouldn't be a big deal. I really want to get back into woodworking and this would be the perfect excuse, any thought?

Typical door height in the U.S. is 6'8" or 80 inches. Idk why you'd want to go solid core interior doors, but in fact the ones with particle board cores are quite cheap, or were compared to the labor involved in DiY. If you mean solid wood like 6 panel, that's another think altogether, and I would wonder if you have the proper tools.
Your best bet would probably be to go with pre-hung doors (includes jambs, hinges and stops and are pre-drilled for handles) but if you insist on a full 84", you may have to get them custom made. Keep in mind there's typically an average 3/4" gap left all around in order to plumb them up.

Also, being an old door hanger myself, I recently was prompted to upgrade the H-C slab doors in my home to 6 panel doors from a 2nd's lumber yard that had various dinged, scratched whatever'd doors. Turns out the panels and frames of those are veneered over particle board, but they look fabulous.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!
I picked 84" because I can do every door on the 2nd floor that height, my friend's childhood home had 12ft tall solid hardwood doors and the solid feel was really nice. I know I could just pick up some prehungs and did recently replace all my exterior doors that way but figure now that I'm on the interior it would be the time if I was going to do something like this.

I saw a method where a hardwood faced plywood was used that all I would need to pick up were some more clamps to make it, and an electric planer if I was going to be doing this on all 9 doors. Based on the condition of the red oak plywood sitting in my half below grade garage for the last 6 years I wouldn't have to worry about warping much.

On a different note regarding getting logs processed if you have access to a car trailer you can get a decent price to get them done if you help and do all the stacking back on the trailer yourself. I put them stacked off the ground a bit in one of my greenhouses (without plants in it) for at least a whole summer and it dries them very nicely.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


SpeedFreek posted:

I picked 84" because I can do every door on the 2nd floor that height, my friend's childhood home had 12ft tall solid hardwood doors and the solid feel was really nice. I know I could just pick up some prehungs and did recently replace all my exterior doors that way but figure now that I'm on the interior it would be the time if I was going to do something like this.

I saw a method where a hardwood faced plywood was used that all I would need to pick up were some more clamps to make it, and an electric planer if I was going to be doing this on all 9 doors. Based on the condition of the red oak plywood sitting in my half below grade garage for the last 6 years I wouldn't have to worry about warping much.

On a different note regarding getting logs processed if you have access to a car trailer you can get a decent price to get them done if you help and do all the stacking back on the trailer yourself. I put them stacked off the ground a bit in one of my greenhouses (without plants in it) for at least a whole summer and it dries them very nicely.
Idk how you were thinking to make them out of plywood, but maybe that would work? Making solid wood, frame and panel doors is not especially complicated, but you need some very straight, dry wood (or a big enough jointer and planer to make dry wood very straight), a tablesaw and a way to cut mortises and tenons or maybe use some bigass dowels. Otherwise it is pretty straightforward frame and panel work at a large scale. It's pretty important that doors be flat and stay flat, and that is easier said than done. Square is helpful too, but you can hide some of that with trim in the jambs.

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010
Depending how many doors you are making the large Festool domino would probably pay for itself pretty quickly.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!
The method I saw was take a 3/4" or two thinner pieces glued together and some thinner pieces overlapping the center piece a bit on the sides like so =------=. Then dado a strip of hardwood to a "T" to fit between the thinner outer pieces and to trim out the edges. It takes a flat workbench and a ton of clamps, I figure I could square it up on my tablesaw if I need to.

I already have a nice cabinet saw and a nice new dado set I'm waiting on an excuse to use. My dad has a 30" planer and huge jointer for any rough sawn stuff. I was thinking of the big rear end dowel method if I did a normal hardwood panel style door, first I need to go through my lumber pile to see what all I have to use.

edit:

Meow Meow Meow posted:

Depending how many doors you are making the large Festool domino would probably pay for itself pretty quickly.
Ouch, not cheap but I'll keep an eye out for something like that at an auction.

Thanks for the feedback everyone.

SpeedFreek fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Jun 25, 2020

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



SpeedFreek posted:

The method I saw was take a 3/4" or two thinner pieces glued together and some thinner pieces overlapping the center piece a bit on the sides like so =------=. Then dado a strip of hardwood to a "T" to fit between the thinner outer pieces and to trim out the edges. It takes a flat workbench and a ton of clamps, I figure I could square it up on my tablesaw if I need to.

I already have a nice cabinet saw and a nice new dado set I'm waiting on an excuse to use. My dad has a 30" planer and huge jointer for any rough sawn stuff. I was thinking of the big rear end dowel method if I did a normal hardwood panel style door, first I need to go through my lumber pile to see what all I have to use.

edit:

Ouch, not cheap but I'll keep an eye out for something like that at an auction.

Thanks for the feedback everyone.

Most locking hardware throw bolt is 1" wide, and the center of the lock backsets 2 3/8" with about a 2 1/4" hole- so you'd have to work that somehow. So that edge piece would want to be the same as a typical door, 1 3/8" thick x 4" if you're using standard hardware.

edit- also it sounds like your dad has a hella shop, and good for him.

Spookydonut
Sep 13, 2010

"Hello alien thoughtbeasts! We murder children!"
~our children?~
"Not recently, no!"
~we cool bro~
My neighbour cut down a palm and theres some good sized sections of trunk I'm eyeing to turn into my first ever bowl blanks, is that kind of wood going to be okay for turning or not?

HolHorsejob
Mar 14, 2020

Portrait of Cheems II of Spain by Jabona Neftman, olo pint on fird
Anyone have a good venue for us to convene when this site goes down? I hate dealing with craft forums, too many assholes named Jim that have the troll baby as their avatar

Olothreutes
Mar 31, 2007

I can't speak to how it is for turning, but palm trees have a fundamentally different internal structure than other trees. They're monocots instead of dicots, so they'll probably be real fibrous and pithy like a corn stalk on steroids. I'm sure people use it for lumber, but it won't have any heartwood (or knots) and I suspect it'll be a pain in the rear end to work and prone to splitting.

Spookydonut
Sep 13, 2010

"Hello alien thoughtbeasts! We murder children!"
~our children?~
"Not recently, no!"
~we cool bro~

HolHorsejob posted:

Anyone have a good venue for us to convene when this site goes down? I hate dealing with craft forums, too many assholes named Jim that have the troll baby as their avatar

maybe a discord?

ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006

HolHorsejob posted:

Anyone have a good venue for us to convene when this site goes down? I hate dealing with craft forums, too many assholes named Jim that have the troll baby as their avatar

I'm not giving up on SA just yet, I think there's a real chance it gets salvaged in the next week or two. But if not, Bread and Roses seems to be the offsite that's gaining the most traction. I'm still lurking to get a feel for it. It's definitely smaller, and different, but they're actively courting SA members and the broad culture strokes feel similar to me. They already have a crafting/maker subforum where I think a woodworking thread would be welcome. It has a $10 entry fee, but it can be waived by PMing someone on these forums to prove you have an account here (but I just paid it).

ColdPie fucked around with this message at 12:23 on Jun 25, 2020

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


HolHorsejob posted:

Anyone have a good venue for us to convene when this site goes down? I hate dealing with craft forums, too many assholes named Jim that have the troll baby as their avatar
I'm with ColdPie-I don't think this ship has sunk yet, and if it does, there is enough goon talent to rebuild modern society from the ground up, much less make a new webforum. Hop in one of the many goon lifeboat discords, and we'll muddle through somehow I'm sure.

I have not found a great woodworking forum anywhere else on the internet. Practical Machinist has a small but good (though slow) woodworking forum I've browsed occasionally, and someone itt has mentioned the old woodworking machines forum as being better than most.

The Slack Lagoon
Jun 17, 2008



Are the Wood River vises any good?

AFewBricksShy
Jun 19, 2003

of a full load.



The Slack Lagoon posted:

Are the Wood River vises any good?

Which one are you looking at? Wood River makes great tools, but for something like a vise, I don't know that their higher cost is worth it.

The Slack Lagoon
Jun 17, 2008



AFewBricksShy posted:

Which one are you looking at? Wood River makes great tools, but for something like a vise, I don't know that their higher cost is worth it.

This one. My friend said he got the sales circular for July a few days early and it's going on sale for $99

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/woodriver-9in-quick-release-vise

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!

Spookydonut posted:

My neighbour cut down a palm and theres some good sized sections of trunk I'm eyeing to turn into my first ever bowl blanks, is that kind of wood going to be okay for turning or not?

Like previously mentioned it appears to be very stringy, looks like it can be used as planks but not much else. I'll give you all the hardwood logs you want if you're willing to drive to SE WI and pick them out of my log pile.

savesthedayrocks
Mar 18, 2004
Opinions on dowels over pocket screws? I want this to be my next project to up my finish skills and work with banding:

https://www.buildsomething.com/plans/P9D220B4195927A39/Golf-bag-stand

I’ve not used either pocket screws or dowels, but pocket screws seem to be a stronger connection. Dowels will be a cheaper cost to get into, but pocket screws seem to be en vogue on YouTube.

Huxley
Oct 10, 2012



Grimey Drawer
Pocket holes all the way. A little pricier, but ease of use is way nicer..

AFewBricksShy
Jun 19, 2003

of a full load.



The Slack Lagoon posted:

This one. My friend said he got the sales circular for July a few days early and it's going on sale for $99

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/woodriver-9in-quick-release-vise

I'd rather someone else with more knowledge weight in, but is that going to be worth $30 more than https://smile.amazon.com/Yost-M9WW-Rapid-Acting-Working/dp/B00SIQ1DDG/ ?

I'm sure it's made to tighter tolerances with better steel, but if you're only using it to hold something in place while working on it, does that matter?

AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 15:30 on Jun 25, 2020

Spookydonut
Sep 13, 2010

"Hello alien thoughtbeasts! We murder children!"
~our children?~
"Not recently, no!"
~we cool bro~

SpeedFreek posted:

Like previously mentioned it appears to be very stringy, looks like it can be used as planks but not much else. I'll give you all the hardwood logs you want if you're willing to drive to SE WI and pick them out of my log pile.

My car won't go across oceans :(

What the heck would roughly 1x1 ft sections of palm wood be good for? Firewood?

savesthedayrocks posted:

Opinions on dowels over pocket screws? I want this to be my next project to up my finish skills and work with banding:

https://www.buildsomething.com/plans/P9D220B4195927A39/Golf-bag-stand

I've not used either pocket screws or dowels, but pocket screws seem to be a stronger connection. Dowels will be a cheaper cost to get into, but pocket screws seem to be en vogue on YouTube.

Use both, just dont glue the dowels, the problem I find with pocket hole screws is you need to excessively clamp it to prevent movement, dowels (and please spend $5 to buy a set of dowel centers) really help keep everything aligned nicely, and screws let you disassemble stuff.

AFewBricksShy posted:

I'd rather someone else with more knowledge weight in, but is that going to be worth $30 more than https://smile.amazon.com/Yost-M9WW-Rapid-Acting-Working/dp/B00SIQ1DDG/ ?

I'm sure it's made to tighter tolerances with better steel, but if you're only using it to hold something in place while working on it, does that matter?

Support small(er) business

Spookydonut fucked around with this message at 15:31 on Jun 25, 2020

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Olothreutes posted:

I can't speak to how it is for turning, but palm trees have a fundamentally different internal structure than other trees. They're monocots instead of dicots, so they'll probably be real fibrous and pithy like a corn stalk on steroids. I'm sure people use it for lumber, but it won't have any heartwood (or knots) and I suspect it'll be a pain in the rear end to work and prone to splitting.

I love that this thread has actual botany knowers along with the many sawdust creators.

Also the advantage of dowels is they can help keep long length boards aligned on the surface. Two different applications, imo.

Mr. Mambold fucked around with this message at 18:08 on Jun 25, 2020

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


Spookydonut posted:

My neighbour cut down a palm and theres some good sized sections of trunk I'm eyeing to turn into my first ever bowl blanks, is that kind of wood going to be okay for turning or not?

I’ve turned black palm. It sucked. Looked pretty enough, though.

e:

Bad Munki posted:

Working on a couple more tap handles for another friend's bar. This time just a set of two, one in tulipwood and one in black palm. Here's the black palm one (still has some more finishing to do, but it's most of the way there.)



What I learned tonight: black palm on the lathe is like trying to turn the Devil's own dick. It produces the nastiest dust, sends off a million microscopic needles in every direction, and generally makes you feel like you've been rolling in and inhaling fiberglass insulation, if said insulation were on steroids and was banging your mom in the other room. I wore a dust mask but as far as I can tell, it did little to nothing, and I'm not optimistic about sending the shirt I was wearing through the laundry.

On top of all that, tiny little blowouts are pretty much impossible to avoid as when you approach getting through one of those little black shoots, the remainder suddenly breaks free and leaves a big hole further in than you intended to go. I'm hoping to just put enough finish on to fill those up and give it "depth and luster." :saddowns:

Excuse the posting style, that was almost a decade ago.

Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Jun 25, 2020

The junk collector
Aug 10, 2005
Hey do you want that motherboard?

Bad Munki posted:

I’ve turned black palm. It sucked. Looked pretty enough, though.

e:


Excuse the posting style, that was almost a decade ago.

Nothing really wrong with the posting style. When turning extremely soft or fibrous materials, I've had some luck turning them with a rasp rather than trying to use a chisel or gouge. I've never turned palm though.
Maybe try hitting it with sanding sealer?

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


Yeah, a rasp or similar would likely work much better. Or just get it somewhat close to the goal and then break out the ol’ 60-grit gouge. I never felt a desire to go back and try again, though. It just wasn’t fun.

shovelbum
Oct 21, 2010

Fun Shoe

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

I'm with ColdPie-I don't think this ship has sunk yet, and if it does, there is enough goon talent to rebuild modern society from the ground up, much less make a new webforum. Hop in one of the many goon lifeboat discords, and we'll muddle through somehow I'm sure.

I have not found a great woodworking forum anywhere else on the internet. Practical Machinist has a small but good (though slow) woodworking forum I've browsed occasionally, and someone itt has mentioned the old woodworking machines forum as being better than most.


There's a maker/diy forum on breadnroses.net the cspam off-site that has been growing insanely rapidly, it's tucked under the art forum now but I think there's a good chance it will move to top level if it gets more traffic from diy refugees. Several of the 3d printer thread guys are over there and so on, I think anyone who doesn't want a forum infested with grumpy old racist men and so on might want to check it out

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!
How do you get an invite code for it?

mds2
Apr 8, 2004


Australia: 131114
Canada: 18662773553
Germany: 08001810771
India: 8888817666
Japan: 810352869090
Russia: 0078202577577
UK: 08457909090
US: 1-800-273-8255

MetaJew posted:

How do you get an invite code for it?

ditto

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

It asks for one but right now you don't actually need one, and can submit the form without one. Also don't pay the money, they're letting goons in for free.

Also there's drama around the people running the site, and reene and other SA mods. here's what I know, start with this post, in the TG chat thread. I don't know anything more than what's posted right there in that thread but it's already making me go :negative: ughhhh.

Maybe it'll all be fine. Sure. It's fine.

shovelbum
Oct 21, 2010

Fun Shoe
Leave the invite code blank and if you pay 10 bux I think you're auto approved and they're approving everyone anyway eventually right now, they're trying to get members

The junk collector
Aug 10, 2005
Hey do you want that motherboard?

shovelbum posted:

the cspam off-site that has been growing insanely rapidly

This sounds like hell honestly.

shovelbum
Oct 21, 2010

Fun Shoe

The junk collector posted:

This sounds like hell honestly.

cspam basically got to where it was the 2nd most active forum after GBS, and probably the most organized, so there was already an offsite at scale after the whole Lowtax livestreaming with alt-right guys and "live-banning" trans ppl a few months ago

ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006

I've been on it for a day. Just ignore the politics half like you ignore D&D here. Seems fine so far.

The most recent announcement here makes me think they're working on some kind of "official" offsite, so worth keeping an eye out for that, too.

shovelbum
Oct 21, 2010

Fun Shoe

ColdPie posted:

I've been on it for a day. Just ignore the politics half like you ignore D&D here. Seems fine so far.

Yeah every day of your life you're in a million spaces run by right wing assholes and crusty old white dudes. If a leftist-run space is only for debating communist theory or whatever it's a joke and a failure.

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Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Bad Munki posted:

Working on a couple more tap handles for another friend's bar. This time just a set of two, one in tulipwood and one in black palm. Here's the black palm one (still has some more finishing to do, but it's most of the way there.)




What I learned tonight: black palm on the lathe is like trying to turn the Devil's own dick. It produces the nastiest dust, sends off a million microscopic needles in every direction, and generally makes you feel like you've been rolling in and inhaling fiberglass insulation, if said insulation were on steroids and was banging your mom in the other room. I wore a dust mask but as far as I can tell, it did little to nothing, and I'm not optimistic about sending the shirt I was wearing through the laundry.

On top of all that, tiny little blowouts are pretty much impossible to avoid as when you approach getting through one of those little black shoots, the remainder suddenly breaks free and leaves a big hole further in than you intended to go. I'm hoping to just put enough finish on to fill those up and give it "depth and luster."


drat, but that looks instantly antique and perfect for a bar. I wonder if you <-- accent on you, not me turned it slower with a really sharp gouge if it would reduce the hellishness.

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