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eddiewalker posted:Combined with a wire brush holder that my nozzle visits as part of my homing routine, my hotend is real clean. Tell me more about this!
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Jul 14, 2020 16:59
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Something a lot of the Voron guys do. Personally, I avoid it and babysit nozzle cleaning. I still have a Nozzle X in it and don't want to gently caress up the coating more than necessary.
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Jul 14, 2020 17:21
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Subjunctive posted:Tell me more about this! Because my z-homing involves the nozzle physically pressing off a microswitch with a known height, it’s important to brush off any crud that could affect when that switch triggers. My home routine is: preheat bed to stabilize chamber temps > home XY > probe the bed at 4 corners so the firmware can physically tram the gantry to the bed > heat nozzle > brush nozzle > home Z. It seems like overkill, and it requires your nozzle to be able to travel slightly off the bed in one axis, but it works like magic. https://youtu.be/C2zPDkbDocU
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Jul 14, 2020 17:26
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my kinda ape posted:Thanks for the pic. I emailed them this morning and they replied just now asking for my address to send me a replacement. Pretty good customer service! Waaaaay back on May 18th I posted this. I'd like to follow up on how it turned out! On May 20th they shipped out what I was led to believe would be a replacement unit. What I received, a day short of 8 weeks later, was this:  Zero instructions. I'm somewhat mechanically inclined so it's within my abilities to remove a bunch of screws and replace a thing and plug it in, but receiving that after I was extremely pleased with them for being nice enough to send me a whole new unit is an absolutely tremendous "gently caress you". And the real kicker is the problem was just that the original plug had just come a bit loose since it doesn't lock in place when pushed in. I suggested to their customer support that that might be the problem and asked for guidance and they offered to send me a new unit so hey I guess I don't have to deal with that hassle, great! Once I was forced to figure out how to open the thing up (which took a lot longer than if they had just told me how to) I fixed the problem pretty quick. Absolutely the most insulting experience I've had with any company. gently caress Anycubic, please don't give them any of your money. Anyway here's the inside of the Anycubic Wash & Cure Station. Back side of the LED array  The replacement LED array they sent me appears to have been used from the marks around the screw holes? The board looks a bit different than the one it came with, and the + and - wires are on opposite sides. Both have v1.0 on them. Maybe the replacement was a preproduction part they had lying around?  I took every single screw off the top of the thing and still couldn't get the top lid off. The solution was just to pry harder as only the eight corner screws actually hold it on. Again I was working with no instructions so I just had to guess until I actually got it open.  The insides. That's everything.  The offending connector is the one closest to the camera here. It was just slightly loose. Nothing keeping it pushed in besides friction.  Original LED array is completely functional if it's plugged in. 
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Jul 15, 2020 03:30
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my kinda ape posted:Zero instructions. "Only user serviceable parts inside. Good luck!"
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Jul 15, 2020 03:45
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These "flexi" print models are kinda cute.    EDIT: They're barely noticeable in the pics, but there are these light wispy hair-like strands randomly on my prints and while I know that it's a nit-picky thing quality-wise I'm trying to figure out how to get rid of them in print settings without loving something up elsewhere. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 20:27 on Jul 15, 2020 |
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Jul 15, 2020 15:43
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Unless it’s really bad I usually just hit it with a creme brûlée torch from a good distance. That’s what we use at work to clean up moderate stringing.
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Jul 15, 2020 22:15
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Heat gun for wispy strings. Harbor Freight has a cheap one, and any crafty person worth their filament should have one anyway.
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Jul 15, 2020 22:41
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Woot (which takes amazon logins for prime shipping) has the Sainsmart branded Ender 3 pro for $180 today: https://computers.woot.com/offers/sainsmart-x-creality-ender-3-pro-3d-printer-14
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Jul 17, 2020 11:48
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Anybody know of a fairly intricate Vase mode 3d model that isn't a rocket, actual flowerpot/vase or fractal pyramid that I could print? Keyword searches on Thingiverse aren't very helpful. EDIT: Also I've got some PETG Prusament and ASA on the way that I'll give a shot on the powder coated bed, hopefully they stick to it because my poo poo ABS definitely wouldn't stick (literally peeling off as the second layer of a given test print was applied). Also on the waiting list for some of the smooth PEI coated beds for the mini whenever they come back in stock. This one is working great but I'd like to have spares just in case something goes wrong with it. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 15:42 on Jul 17, 2020 |
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Jul 17, 2020 14:16
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Off the top of my head, there’s a vase mode woman’s torso and a vase mode Moai statue
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Jul 17, 2020 18:24
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Probably can't do the woman's torso at work. I'll look for the Moai statue. I'm kind of hoping for something like an organic creature shape like some kind of undersea creature that was essentially a bunch of ripples coming up from a common base that didn't intersect anywhere except for the "top"/"tip" of the ribbon that made up most of it's shape that I saw once several months ago but can't remember the name of. Something a lot like this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3030839 Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 19:21 on Jul 17, 2020 |
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Jul 17, 2020 19:07
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With the help of a heat gun, soldering iron, pliers, brass brush, and dental pick, I managed to get pretty much all the PLA off of the extruder region. A couple of problems remain: - the print fan shroud thing broke or melted a bit under my ministrations, so it hangs down a touch. It's still above the tip of the nozzle, but not by very much - the heater cabling got pulled a bit loose of the fabric wrap, so it also comes dangerously close to being lower than the nozzle. I may have to re-run those cables through to the Einsy. I ordered a spare set of the E-axis plastic parts from Prusa in case I can't sort it out otherwise, and I have a replacement hotend coming from a local supplier. I need to re-set the PINDA a bit because it's just barely dragging the paper during the 4-point calibration, but I have hope that I'll be back to chasing adhesion issues today!
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Jul 17, 2020 19:23
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 Loving how the office fan is louder than the printer. https://i.imgur.com/Aym7mgk.gifv
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Jul 17, 2020 19:52
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This is cool. Care to pass along an stl or search terms?
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Jul 18, 2020 05:42
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I'm a total newbie to 3D printing, interested in making parts for tabletop gaming models. Is there a good intro guide for me to read up on this stuff?
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Jul 18, 2020 08:04
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This helped me out a few months ago: https://www.reddit.com/r/3DPrinting/wiki/index https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/fbpnri/purchase_advice_megathread_what_to_buy_who_to_buy/fj5s1qu
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Jul 18, 2020 14:09
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Mikey Purp posted:This is cool. Care to pass along an stl or search terms? I found it on Thingiverse with "vase" "has makes" and "most makes" selected and it was in one of the collections.
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Jul 18, 2020 15:41
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Bed adhesion is good, so I’m printing a simple part and seeing some weird scarring and blobbing/stringing. My heat gun escapades led to me removing half the print fan shroud, so if that’s the cause then I’ll just wait for the new part to arrive. If it’s not, what is it? Scarring like this on the first layer especially. Doesn’t look like anything is dragging, as far as I can tell.  Bunch of blobbing and stringing, and the filament looks different: yellow-brownish.  It’s printing infill for the stand right now so I’m not too worried about it, but it doesn’t seem right...
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Jul 18, 2020 22:00
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I am using fusion 360 for designs and cura for my slicer for my printer and I'm having issues with my dimensions. On fusion I have a helmet for cos-play sized right and when I go to import it into Cura the dimensions are massively out of scale. Any ideas on what can cause that issue?
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Jul 18, 2020 23:42
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Rythe posted:I am using fusion 360 for designs and cura for my slicer for my printer and I'm having issues with my dimensions. On fusion I have a helmet for cos-play sized right and when I go to import it into Cura the dimensions are massively out of scale. Any ideas on what can cause that issue?
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Jul 18, 2020 23:47
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Parts Kit posted:Did you remember to set the units in Fusion 360 to millimeters before creating the .stl? I am not sure and that is stupid enough to be what's wrong........ I'll have to double check soon to see if I'm a dumb rear end.
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Jul 18, 2020 23:50
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Well, the first part turned out OK: other than some weirdness on the bottom:  So I guess I have a mostly-working printer now!
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Jul 19, 2020 00:51
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Also, make sure cura is set to mm as well. I've had it scale poo poo incredibly weird because I hosed up and set it weirdly a few projects previous.
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Jul 19, 2020 01:05
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I ran something through the customizer on Thingiverse and it's been queued for 4 hours now God damnit Thingiverse, be better
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Jul 19, 2020 02:04
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One way to check scale is if it shows up as super tiny in your slicer, you can scale to 2540% and see if it shows up correctly. That'd be the result of 1 inch being 25.4mm so it'd work if you modeled the original item in inches unintentionally.
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Jul 19, 2020 02:12
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Sockser posted:I ran something through the customizer on Thingiverse and it's been queued for 4 hours now this is 100% openscad's fault (poo poo's slow)
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Jul 19, 2020 02:28
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Can you not run the Customizer stuff through OpenSCAD locally? That's terrible! Camera mount printed and working, so I can watch the print while I play video games. The future, truly, is now.
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Jul 19, 2020 03:26
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Subjunctive posted:Can you not run the Customizer stuff through OpenSCAD locally? That's terrible! You can. It's slow
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Jul 19, 2020 03:28
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Anybody know of a good floral/plant 3d model that can be vase-mode printed? I've found some literal vases with vague flower shapes, and some flowers that can't be printed in vase mode, but no combinations of the two. Is there anything in PrusaSlicer like an old S3D feature called "close all boundary surfaces" (IIRC) that would basically take the distinct non-vase models and create a shell over it that could then be vase mode printed?
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Jul 20, 2020 23:42
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Can loctite be undone easily? Reason I ask is I have a stripped plug on my hot end, and I was thinking of putting something like loctite there and having it keep the piece from moving around, but if I ever get a bad enough clog I'm gonna have to remove that bit that's screwed in.
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Jul 21, 2020 03:03
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Can loctite be undone easily? It'll probably work, but the usual way of loosening threadlockers is to heat them up.
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Jul 21, 2020 03:08
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Loctite won't fix stripped threads and the conventional blue and red variants are only rated for 450F (232C). I don't think it would be very effective and it would probably degrade fairly quickly since you'd be running it close to its maximum temperature. Loctite 2422 is good up to 340C but you'd have to special order it, and again, loctite doesn't really repair threads. I'd just replace the block
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Jul 21, 2020 03:09
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BMan posted:You can. It's slow Boy, it sure is. Cool when it works, though. On both my Windows and Mac machines, OpenSCAD’s rendering is hosed up, but I can usually wiggle the camera around enough that the piece I want to see flickers into existence. Is there a way to start PrusaSlicer with the —data-dir option on Mac? I want to sync my profiles between machines.
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Jul 21, 2020 03:13
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Sagebrush posted:Loctite won't fix stripped threads and the conventional blue and red variants are only rated for 450F (232C). I don't think it would be very effective and it would probably degrade fairly quickly since you'd be running it close to its maximum temperature. There are threadlockers (Rocksett in particular) that are good for thousands of degrees F but yeah kind of pointless if the threads are shot in the first place.
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Jul 21, 2020 04:11
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Printing with "natural" ASA today for shits and giggles to see if a part at work that we have made out of 316 Stainless Steel will function just as well in a sample assembly as the SST version of the part. There has already been discussion about having the part machined out of UHMW so I figure this would be a good test case material to trial, assuming the part prints well and the dimension check passes inspection. EDIT: Yeah, literally nothing is sticking to the powder-coated steel bed that I've tried so far, and I'm wiping it with 99% Iso-wipes and doing first layer calibrations (which stick, but anything else peels up after about 30 minutes printing). Have not tried PETG yet. Going to the regular PEI coated bed for the test. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 13:50 on Jul 21, 2020 |
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Jul 21, 2020 12:47
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Printing with "natural" ASA today for shits and giggles to see if a part at work that we have made out of 316 Stainless Steel will function just as well in a sample assembly as the SST version of the part. Once styrene gets involved you need an enclosure for good printing. A PEI bed can only do so much.
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Jul 21, 2020 14:27
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insta posted:Once styrene gets involved you need an enclosure for good printing. A PEI bed can only do so much. Doing pretty well with Prusament ASA so far.  I'm perfectly fine with taking a deburring tool to that base to remove the brim if it sticks until the print is done. What I meant above is that none of the materials I've tried have stuck to it. Not even PLA. It just slides right off as the print progresses.
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Jul 21, 2020 14:36
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For those with any amount of experience with Chitubox, I’m wondering if it’s totally fine to let auto-support do it job to guarantee a successful print if I don’t care about surface scaring? I totally can do manual support placement but If I don’t have to it will save me a lot of time for the pieces I want to print. Using the photon file validator is also a step I know not to skip to catch all the tiny islands.
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Jul 21, 2020 14:38
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I see the Saturn is pushed back to November-December. So I'm going to pick up a smaller unit till then. Any compelling reason to go with the Photon or the Mars? Is the Mars Pro worth the extra $50?
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Jul 21, 2020 14:49
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