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My 2019 car has a slow leak near the tire sidewall so I need a new tire. It has 17k miles on the factory original tires, they are rated for 70k miles. Can I just buy a single tire and be fine? Do I need to have someone check the treads first?
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Jul 17, 2020 21:33
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FCKGW posted:My 2019 car has a slow leak near the tire sidewall so I need a new tire. It has 17k miles on the factory original tires, they are rated for 70k miles. What type of car? Is it AWD?
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Jul 17, 2020 21:36
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shortspecialbus posted:What type of car? Is it AWD? FWD Hyundai Kona CUV. I can get the exact same model from America's Tire.
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Jul 17, 2020 21:42
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I'd measure the tread depth difference, if it's more than 1/8" I'd probably replace the pair (same axle). Others may have a different opinion.
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Jul 17, 2020 21:46
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FCKGW posted:Do I need to have someone check the treads first? You xan buy your own tread depth gauge for a few bux btw
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Jul 18, 2020 02:51
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ye olde ram van: took a long, slow downhill with lots of braking; at the bottom, it started pulling left a little. Braking corrected the pull. When I stopped, left front wheel was pretty toasty and I could hear fluid noises/stuff settling. No fluid leaking anywhere that I can see. currently sitting waiting for things to cool off; am I likely to have damaged anything, or just gotten the fluid too hot for a bit?
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Jul 18, 2020 07:48
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Motronic posted:This is not going to be a helpful reply, but my observation is that in the last 20 years or so buying "parts for parts" to do rebuilds is somewhere between impossible and more expensive than a reman. It's really depressing. You already try aspwholesale.com? They are my go to for all that stuff. No brake caliper rebuild parts though. As for the head bolt issue, Jesus reading that gave me PTSD. One of two things is going on. One, you're about to break the bolt. Two, you're about to pull the threads out of the block. I would sincerely hope for the former if you're already buying new bolts but if you're like me and finish loving it up before deciding what to do, second option is definitely better because it just means it's easier to drill out for helicoils or timeserts 
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Jul 18, 2020 08:14
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kastein posted:You already try aspwholesale.com? They are my go to for all that stuff. No brake caliper rebuild parts though. You told me about that (a year or two) ago and I've yet to need to rebuild something since. It's bookmarked and thank you.
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Jul 18, 2020 13:41
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How the hell do I get an axle nut loose when the CV joint has detached? If the boot was torn and I was replacing it because it had started clicking, that would be one thing, but there's just no resistance on it, even when I've got the car in first gear. The axle is just spinning freely.
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Jul 18, 2020 16:46
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Have someone hold the brake while you turn it.
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Jul 18, 2020 16:49
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Use an impact wrench and hold it with the other hand or channel locks or a pipe wrench. Depending on if you want to reuse it or not.
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Jul 18, 2020 17:07
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Find a screwdriver you don't care about. Jam it into one of the vents on the rotor between the caliper and bracket. If there's not enough room, jam it just below the caliper bracket (you said driver's side, right?). Works best if you have a couple of screwdrivers, you might break a couple if the bolt doesn't want to break loose. Remember to use a punch to hammer out the dimple on the nut.
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Jul 18, 2020 17:15
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E: ^^^^^^ Yeah, unstaking the nut will make it easier too.. Depending on the kind of wheel (most likely only on steel wheels) you might be able to put it back on, car on ground, chock wheels and then uncrank that bitch. wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 17:30 on Jul 18, 2020 |
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Jul 18, 2020 17:27
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Putting a giant brick on the brake pedal worked, thankfully. I unstaked the nut as much as I could first, too. I kind of had a brain fart on the fact that the splines on the outboard side mean the disk wants to spin too. Got the stupid pin lined up, but turns out I need long punches and I have no idea where they went in the six years since I used them, so I'm back at Harbor freight again. After I get the pin out I might take a break until the evening because it's already 90 degrees.
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Jul 18, 2020 17:59
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Can anyone recommend a decent r134a manifold gauge set? I'm just getting hot air out of my 2011 honda fit. The ones on amazon look like they're mostly cheap pieces of poo poo and all the hoses are meant for multiple refrigerants so you need an adapter to put the quick disconnect end on. I'd prefer not to cheap out for something that could seriously injure me
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Jul 18, 2020 18:37
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I use the Harbor Freight one, it was under $75. No problems in four years and multiple jobs; comes with its own case & everything. e: this one: https://www.harborfreight.com/ac-r134a-manifold-gauge-set-62707.html
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Jul 18, 2020 18:39
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LOWERING HEIGHT QUESTION. I'm finally getting around to lowering my Mazda 2. The only question is how much drop? Going with the Corksport kit I'll lower 1.5 inches in front and 2 in the back. Megan will give me 1.25 inches in the front and 1 in the back. My inclination is to go with the Megan kit because this is still a car that needs to get around Vegas every day, but I've got other Corksport stuff on my car and I believe in their quality. Thoughts?
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Jul 18, 2020 18:47
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If it's your daily, get the higher (lol) lowering springs, imo.
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Jul 18, 2020 20:48
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I have my Mazda 3 lowered just a little and it's annoying on a car with low body work, side sills, etc.
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Jul 18, 2020 20:55
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PainterofCrap posted:I use the Harbor Freight one, it was under $75. No problems in four years and multiple jobs; comes with its own case & everything. Thanks, that should do it
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Jul 18, 2020 22:06
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As i mentioned earlier in the thread, I got an allegedly leaky (according to the dealer) rear shock on my civic Si, which is a buddy club n+ coilovers (although on the civic the spring and the shock are separate in the rear). How can I know how bad it is? I don’t think it’s been making any noises. How would that affect handling?
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Jul 18, 2020 22:15
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Megan springs it is. Thanks!
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Jul 18, 2020 23:29
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Head Bee Guy posted:As i mentioned earlier in the thread, I got an allegedly leaky (according to the dealer) rear shock on my civic Si, which is a buddy club n+ coilovers (although on the civic the spring and the shock are separate in the rear). How can I know how bad it is? I don’t think it’s been making any noises. How would that affect handling? If the shock is blown you are only using the spring to control the suspension on that corner of the car. If removing the shock isn't difficult you can pull the shock and examine it/try to compress it by hand. If you can push the piston into the shock body, it'll be blown. If getting the shock serviced is a pain, I'd replace it with a Koni adjustable since they're readily available and separate from the spring in the back.
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Jul 19, 2020 13:58
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PainterofCrap posted:I use the Harbor Freight one, it was under $75. No problems in four years and multiple jobs; comes with its own case & everything. I have the same ones. Google Harbor Freight 20% off coupon first, they can scan it off your phone when you're checking out.
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Jul 19, 2020 14:02
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If my car seems to get slightly bogged down when starting, (75k miles) that’s probably a sign that the battery is starting to go, right?
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Jul 19, 2020 14:10
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AFewBricksShy posted:If my car seems to get slightly bogged down when starting, (75k miles) that’s probably a sign that the battery is starting to go, right? For batteries the mileage isn't as important as the age is and the conditions they've been in. How old is it? What climate do you live in? spankmeister fucked around with this message at 14:23 on Jul 19, 2020 |
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Jul 19, 2020 14:21
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spankmeister posted:For batteries the mileage isn't as important as the age is and the conditions they've been in. 5 years old, Philadelphia. So 4 true seasons and it’s hot as balls today. It’s definitely a dead battery. It is getting worse with each start id be surprised to get one more. However I guess it could be a bad alternator.
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Jul 19, 2020 14:29
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AFewBricksShy posted:5 years old, Philadelphia. So 4 true seasons and it’s hot as balls today. 5 years is about all you can expect. Swap it now before it takes out the alternator (and test that the alternator is still in fact working after swapping).
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Jul 19, 2020 14:43
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Yeah, batteries fail way more often than alternators. I would do nothing more than a quick voltmeter check to confirm 14V when running after putting a new battery in it. Also the main thing you pay for with a battery is the warranty. Physically they're mostly the same so pick the store you would want to deal with again if it dies too soon.
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Jul 19, 2020 16:46
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Installing an axleback exhaust doesn’t change the performance, correct? Looking to make my car sound a little deeper, but I don’t want to adjust the tune or appreciably affect the airflow
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Jul 19, 2020 17:14
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Replacing an axleback should make no difference in terms of flow, since almost all of that is dictated by the manifold and first cat.
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Jul 19, 2020 18:23
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It could also be a bad starter but check the battery first, they can load test it at the parts store.
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Jul 19, 2020 18:41
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I'm going to help a friend fix up and sell his 06 Altima daily driver and I'm fairly sure it's been sitting long enough that the gas is probably not great or bad any suggestions about a fuel additive to deal with it? I don't want to drain the tank. he said it was misfiring a bunch and threw a CEL the last time he drove it, parked it when he got home and now the battery is dead.
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Jul 19, 2020 19:26
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Would trying to modify a 1.4litre engine to get a bit more power out of it be a stupid idea?
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Jul 19, 2020 22:07
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The Real Amethyst posted:Would trying to modify a 1.4litre engine to get a bit more power out of it be a stupid idea?
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Jul 19, 2020 22:22
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Charles posted:Depends on what the color is 2016 euro civic 1.4L i-vtec 104HP petrol. I mean red.
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Jul 19, 2020 22:31
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BraveUlysses posted:I'm going to help a friend fix up and sell his 06 Altima daily driver and I'm fairly sure it's been sitting long enough that the gas is probably not great or bad How long has it been sitting? Fuel additive will only prevent it from going bad, it's not going to reverse it. How full is the tank? If its less than half you could probably top it up to dilute it enough to get away with it. Otherwise you're draining it.
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Jul 19, 2020 23:27
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The Real Amethyst posted:2016 euro civic 1.4L i-vtec 104HP petrol. What are your proposed modifications? Modern engines don't really have a lot of power to give, unless maybe you want to turbo it? It's a tiny little engine (apparently it's actually 1.3L? -- Wikipedia seems to think it's an L series) squeezing out a decent amount of power.
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Jul 19, 2020 23:57
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How much do you know about modifying cars? I work in the auto industry with powertrain engineers and, yeah, you're not going to get enough from a 1.4L without putting a turbo on it. And that is not a small subject for someone that's the kind of person so ask whether or not it's worth modifying a 1.4L engine for extra power on an internet forum.
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Jul 20, 2020 00:26
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opengl128 posted:How long has it been sitting? probably filled in March? it's probably less than half a tank. maybe I can limp it to the gas station once I can get it started again, I was hoping to avoid buying a gas can.
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Jul 20, 2020 03:36
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