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KerenskyWhite posted:Attempted to remove bell housing bolts on e36 today. After finding out they were a torx socket, bought torx sockets. Hoped my little ratchet would get in there and take care of them. Oh no. Not these bolts. They're going to need a breaker bar... but there's like zero room. I do not want to pull the transmission with the engine. I don't want to remove the cars front clip to allow that. If it's anything like an E30 loosen the engine mounts, remove the trans mounts and support the rear of the trans with a jack or jack stand. Then combine extensions to get three feet worth and stick that on your breaker bar. Ideally you have the driveshaft off as well. What are you actually trying to do? Removing bell housing bolts but not pulling transmission?
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Jul 22, 2020 11:03
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Not Ride related but my garage workshop finally has running water which is a huge deal to me. now I can finish up cleaning all the plaster stains on the floor from the masonry work and start moving storage space and tools in. Next big step is a scissor lift and compressed air. E: the actual working space  In total about twice the space of the image. 85 square meters. Combat Theory fucked around with this message at 16:24 on Jul 22, 2020 |
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Jul 22, 2020 16:18
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NitroSpazzz posted:
Engine rebuild. Not touching the transmission if I can help it, in my pre-apprenticeship we didn't touch them and well, I never got a job in the industry after that so... Funny, my resulting career in IT didn't go into them either! Plus it's behaving just fine. Last thing it needs is me loving with it.
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Jul 22, 2020 16:23
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When I watch videos of transmission rebuilds it is like they are cracking open alien technology at Area 51.
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Jul 22, 2020 16:27
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Manual trans rebuild is usually pretty easy unless it's a fairly modern one. Autos are made of magic and tiny parts that make it completely not work if you put them in facing the wrong direction or in a spot that looks exactly the same as where they came from but is a half inch away.
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Jul 22, 2020 17:30
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KerenskyWhite posted:Engine rebuild. Not touching the transmission if I can help it, in my pre-apprenticeship we didn't touch them and well, I never got a job in the industry after that so... Funny, my resulting career in IT didn't go into them either! Plus it's behaving just fine. Last thing it needs is me loving with it. That makes sense, I misread your original post a bit. So tons of extensions and go at it from underneath is the best way that I've found. Once it's disconnected you should be able to wiggle it out of there as long as you have the radiator out of the way to slide the engine forward a bit. I'd still recommend disconnecting the drive shaft so you can slide the trans back a little bit to make everything easier once it's disconnected from the engine.
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Jul 22, 2020 17:40
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StormDrain posted:Oh wow if you bent that up great job, I definitely thought it was a manufactured patch panel. And welding on thin stuff blows hard. Like you literally blow through it. Seems like your wire speed could be lower? Each little weld I did was just a half second squeeze, and when the prep and setup was perfect I would get a flat 3/16" puddle, most of the welds were like a little zit though. I figured it out, actually. The gun tip was just a bit too small for the wire, despite both being marked for 0.025". It was binding up, eventually to the point of not feeding at all, unless you kicked the trigger a couple times, which lead to inconsistent feed rates, as you can imaging. I'd set the feed a bit higher to compensate, so it would go from too little to too much randomly. I discovered this while welding the brace that I had to remove to get ot the rust back in yesterday. Finally stopped and turned the gas off and just observed the feed without welding, both at the gun, and opening the side and watching the reel and feed mechanism. The feed wasn't slipping -the motor was completely stalling! I ran a 0.6mm drill through the tip, and that helped, but still felt a bit sticky, so I drilled it part way through with the next size up, a 0.8mm, leaving about 1/4" @ the end 0.6mm. That did the trick. Getting everything into position:  Easy to line up when you have the drilled out spot welds to guide you. Welded in:   Figured out the feed problem about here:  Those look so much nicer. And all primered up:  I ground the welds on the top flat so they wouldn't interfere with the fender being installed, but left the rest as they were. I'll do the passenger side next, and clean up the rest of the door hinges, then it looks like I'll have no other excuses to get on with sanding everything flattish and going to town with epoxy primer. kastein posted:Just make sure you get the back of that repair painted too, the entire back of the weld is now bare, burnt-clean metal and will rust very very quickly. I'm a fan of the Eastwood internal chassis coat for this purpose, and as long as you use the right brand and type of brakleen (non chlorinated, with as little other than methanol, acetone, heptane, and maybe xylene in it as possible - unfortunately getting hard to find due to voc regulations) you can flush the wand nozzle out with it and reuse it... Or even put it on some brands of regular spray paint cans. I'm going to try to do that - it's almost inaccessible. There's one small hole from the inside of the cowl vent area you can get to it from. This is likely why it rusted in the first place, in addition to that area merging into double wall, which always traps moisture. edit: you can also buy the wand separately, if necessary: https://www.eastwood.com/aerosol-nozzle-w-24-extension-hose.html KerenskyWhite posted:Attempted to remove bell housing bolts on e36 today. After finding out they were a torx socket, bought torx sockets. Hoped my little ratchet would get in there and take care of them. Oh no. Not these bolts. They're going to need a breaker bar... but there's like zero room. I do not want to pull the transmission with the engine. I don't want to remove the cars front clip to allow that. I find that a good selection of extensions and wobble joints aid immensely in removing bell housing bolts. e: f,b on the above. So... thirding, I guess? Darchangel fucked around with this message at 18:33 on Jul 22, 2020 |
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Jul 22, 2020 18:25
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Not my car but my buddy has a mid 80s BMW E30 that he races so I've been helping him here and there. I went to one of his races this past weekend to give him a hand, checking/adjusting tire pressures, swapping wheels/tires, torquing lug nuts, bleeding brakes, adjusting suspension settings, fueling the car etc. On the last race he noticed a noise and looseness in this front right wheel so he pulled off. Broke the strut where the weld attaches the tube the shock screws into the mounting bracket. The weld looked not so great to begin with. Most of the bead was on the tube and not making a significant bridge to the bracket. There were lots of gaps and pockets. My guess is the bracket being much heavier cast iron was not as hot as the thinner tube when the weld was applied. I havent welded since highschool but I've done much better welds in the past. By the time we looked at it, the weld was separated 3/4 of the way around the tube. It caused a sway bar end link to bend like a paper clip and the tire to rub on the sway bar. Funny thing, he was wanting to change up his graphics and he ended up buying some green vinyl and letters to do up a vintage inspired german police car. When other dudes are dropping tons of money on slick replica race graphics and paint, its funny to see a janky police car running around.
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Jul 22, 2020 23:06
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Combat Theory posted:Not Ride related but my garage workshop finally has running water which is a huge deal to me. Just posting to say I lust for your garage space.
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Jul 22, 2020 23:31
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NitroSpazzz posted:That makes sense, I misread your original post a bit. So tons of extensions and go at it from underneath is the best way that I've found. Once it's disconnected you should be able to wiggle it out of there as long as you have the radiator out of the way to slide the engine forward a bit. I'd still recommend disconnecting the drive shaft so you can slide the trans back a little bit to make everything easier once it's disconnected from the engine. Sounds like a plan, thank you! Radiator's already out and it's just the m44 1.9L so not exactly a huge engine block.
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Jul 23, 2020 03:00
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01 GMC 3500 8.1L/Allison dually -Brakes/rotors, flushed fluid/adjusted parking brakes -Diff pinon seal/Diff cover gasket/fluid change -Driveshaft center support/greased slip joint -Drain Allison transmission/new pan and external filter/new (stupid expensive) Mobil TES 295 fluid -engine oil cooler lines (leaking at connection between hard pipe and flex)/engine oil and filter -water pump/thermostat/all coolant hoses/flush and fill with coolant and DI Brakes are the big item here. Have to knock all the wheel studs out, and the rears also require pulling the axle shafts and hubs. Been low key truck shopping for several months cause I knew some of this stuff was coming, and it was going to be expensive. But then my DD had enough issues that I justified getting a new one, so decided to keep the old truck a while longer. Then the pinon seal died and it became a case of "might as well while you're there" with everything else. The water pump was preventative maintenance since this is a tow rig and just hit 165k with unknown service history. I am kinda fond of the old girl.  I said "gently caress it" and farmed the whole job out to a friend of mine who was a heavy truck/equipment mechanic until moving to greener pastures. First time I've paid a mechanic (in a non emergency situation) probably since I was a teenager and started doing my own work. It took him a couple days and none of it looked like fun. I don't regret it. The good news is that he said everything including the old trans fluid and ring gear looked great. Did find one rear caliper with a ripped boot to replace, but no costly surprises other than that. My wife hauled her trailer about 3 hours round trip yesterday, and I parked it on concrete afterwards. Checked today, and no leaks so far.
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Jul 23, 2020 03:29
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angryrobots posted:I said "gently caress it" and farmed the whole job out to a friend of mine who was a heavy truck/equipment mechanic until moving to greener pastures. First time I've paid a mechanic (in a non emergency situation) probably since I was a teenager and started doing my own work. I dunno about you but I started working on cars out of necessity because I couldn't afford to pay somebody else. Now that I'm older it's nice not having to do it all myself anymore. No shame in farming it out, IMO. Nice truck.
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Jul 23, 2020 11:01
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Yeah, I'm warming to the idea of farming out more stuff myself. I don't *like* it, especially when a highly rated shop leaves loose ends I figured they'd have taken care of properly, but when a job requires tools or expertise that are not trivial to obtain that's the route I'll probably take. I will probably go that route when my Canyon needs a timing belt. There's a boatload of special tools needed and it's a once every 150k job, so I really doubt I will ever do it again.
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Jul 23, 2020 21:24
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If it ain't fun I don't gently caress with it on a daily.
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Jul 23, 2020 21:48
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Yeah, a lot of work that I've done in the past was on poo poo vehicles that were worth less than the book time for whatever job they needed. I still like doing my own work but a brake job on these HD trucks is not fun, and my time is limited both by other responsibilities and the fact that my wife uses the truck semi-regularly so I can't just park it and take my sweet time. A while ago I got a shop to quote me on just labor for the rear brakes only and it came to over $700 plus tax. My dude did everything for $1200 (labor, I sourced parts and fluids beforehand) and I'm confident it's done well. For the brakes I went with Power Stop pads and geomet coated rotors, and so far I'm very happy with them at the price. Those are a huge improvement on my stock brakes that were just about to the wear indicators. My mechanic seemed a little put off by the brand he wasn't familiar with (he is all about using all-OEM components) but told me later after installing and bedding them in that he was impressed.
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Jul 23, 2020 22:25
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New (to me) wheels, Ambit RT6 18x8.5. I fell in love with them when I saw them on another members' car years ago, but didn't manage to pick up a set before they were discontinued. So happy with how they look. Now I really need some low...    
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Jul 24, 2020 02:29
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I like those. High five white letters out buddy.
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Jul 24, 2020 02:45
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Motronic posted:I like those. High five white letters out buddy. Woo. I'll be redoing them this weekend as part of my Ford Nationals prep, so they'll be bright white again - I did them may of last year and the wear is obvious. New headlights too.
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Jul 24, 2020 03:05
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First oil change with the Fumoto valve. This is living. The flow was smooth and easily managed with a hose. . Last time I pulled the plug it had enough pressure to shoot out to the tire and was a mess. The only change for next time is to puncture the filter because that dripped and splattered all over. Edit, I also drove up onto a pair of 2x8s which lol aren't nearly as wide as the tire but gave enough clearance to be comfortable without jacking it up. Trucks are good. 
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Jul 24, 2020 05:17
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I still kick myself for not getting a Fumoto with a hose nipple. Next car. 
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Jul 24, 2020 06:40
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 Refinished the OEM steel wheels in white, put on some new tires white letters out, replaced a single o-ring on the injection pump to stop a diesel leak and then drove it 5~ hours today back and forth from a place up north.
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Jul 26, 2020 03:37
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KakerMix posted:
I love those wheels/tires!
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Jul 26, 2020 03:45
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angryrobots posted:01 GMC 3500 8.1L/Allison dually Love it! Single digit MPG buddies  
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Jul 26, 2020 06:30
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 Got one drum off the axle, the other side is pretty rusted to the hub. I hit it with map gas torch this morning for a while and got it somewhat loose but still stuck. More kroil and I'll try again in a few hours.
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Jul 26, 2020 13:14
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Suburban Dad posted:I dunno about you but I started working on cars out of necessity because I couldn't afford to pay somebody else. Now that I'm older it's nice not having to do it all myself anymore. No shame in farming it out, IMO. Yep that is where I'm at in life. When I saw that dually brake job I was like "No way in hell would I attempt that, here someone take my money". Then I read the spoiler.
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Jul 26, 2020 14:55
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C-Bangin' it 
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I started working on cars because it interested me and then I realized, why pay someone $1200 when it can do it myself for about $150 (A/C didn't work). But yeah, no shame in farming it out.
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Jul 26, 2020 15:26
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KakerMix posted:
Oh yeah. It's just right with the KO2s on it.
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Jul 26, 2020 15:33
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MrOnBicycle posted:I started working on cars because it interested me and then I realized, why pay someone $1200 when it can do it myself for about $150 (A/C didn't work). But yeah, no shame in farming it out. I still feel this way generally but gently caress working on rusty poo poo anymore. I'll do the couple hour easy jobs but that's about it anymore.
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Jul 26, 2020 16:37
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Suburban Dad posted:I still feel this way generally but gently caress working on rusty poo poo anymore. I'll do the couple hour easy jobs but that's about it anymore. I'm this way with most things. If I can do it myself I have a hard time paying people to do the work (which I almost never am happy with). I paid $250 for a bike shop to sort my bike as I was in the middle of med school exams and poo poo. They did a pretty drat mediocre work. Certainly not worth the money.
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Jul 26, 2020 16:51
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always be closing posted:
Speaking of almost exactly this. I have 1 broken wheel stud on my LR wheel, another stud that's chowered so bad that I had to zip a lug nut on with all of the ugga duggas (it's gonna snap the stud when it comes back off), and a third stud is rough. I grabbed 5 new studs and lugnuts. I'd prefer to replace the entire bearing/hub, but finances won't allow that right now. I'm pretty sure the drum-in-hat-disc combo rotor/drum has never been removed. I'm considering just yanking the wheel, then unbolting the caliper bracket, and unbolting the bearing from the backing plate - then yank the disc/drum with the bearing and hub attached. Just wondering how stupid/safe this is; I don't know how well the bearing mount will clear the parking brake hardware. And since at least 1 more stud is going to snap, it's gonna be an all or nothing adventure (as in it HAS to come apart right then, or it gets flatbedded to a shop.. not driving a 5 lug car on 3 lugs, esp when they're next to each other). (03 Outback wagon) randomidiot fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Jul 26, 2020 |
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Jul 26, 2020 20:31
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Did an oil change today, was really mad at myself for not getting a Fumoto valve for this car. I didn’t make much of a mess but anything seems like a lot compared to no mess. I also installed the underbody panels that early BRZ/FR-S models did not get in the US.  The are the two big panels that are under the cabin area and basically bolt right in, there’s only one small panel that need to come off and some clips that need to be popped out first, that the new panels will make use of. Of course on the first clip I slipped and banged up my hand pretty good.  This plus the humid 90+ degree heat really slowed me down afterwards.  Comparison of the one small original panel and the full sized drivers side one.  Two of these for the rear between the cabin area and the fuel tank.  This is all that was original over the fuel tank. Again these bolt right in, and are even more obvious were intended to be there all along as there are three exposed bolts from the factory that do nothing until these are put on. No after pics because I was beat and there’s no room to get any sort of decent camera angle. I tried a brief drive on the highway t see if I could notice a difference but hit traffic almost right away so who knows. I’m hoping for a slight reduction in road noise, not expecting any aero benefits since I mainly only keep up with traffic. I do need to get a set of taller jack stands and a low profile jack. Any work under the car is a nightmare and I feel like half the time is spent just settings things up and awkwardly maneuvering around on the creeper.
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Jul 27, 2020 02:12
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DrChu posted:Did an oil change today, was really mad at myself for not getting a Fumoto valve for this car. Do all of you Fumoto havers or wanters not care about the fact that a drain plug is a magnet that takes shavings out of the oil and requires you to remove it and wipe it off to perform that function?
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Jul 27, 2020 02:57
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iirc, engine oil passes mostly through non-ferrous parts and if you were to have ferrous material collect in your engine oil pan, the engine is hosed anyway. Therefore, a magnetic engine oil drain plug isn't necessary.
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Jul 27, 2020 02:59
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Minto Took posted:iirc, engine oil passes mostly through non-ferrous parts and if you were to have ferrous material collect in your engine oil pan, the engine is hosed anyway. Therefore, a magnetic engine oil drain plug isn't necessary. This sounds like theoretical knowledge, and it's not clear to me how you think it matters that oil passes through mostly non-ferrous parts (this is also completely wrong to absurdly different degrees depending on the motor). Anyone who has spent any amount of time changing oil knows different. There is almost ALWAYS something on the plug in anything of any age. Even when it gets to "concerning" levels you're looking at another who knows how many 10s of thousands of miles the motor can still go. These shavings come from many places that aren't engine killers. Timing chain and gear wear is a big one, and you'll find a lot more on plugs in motors with those things. Rings will shed metal too. This is normal and expected in appropriate sizes (very small) and quantities (also very small) but it's absolutely a thing that you probably shouldn't be leaving circulating in your oil long term. Perhaps a lot of it flushes out in suspension without a magnetic plug, but I tend to doubt that otherwise plugs wouldn't be magnetic to begin with from all of the penny pinching companies that build cars.
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Jul 27, 2020 03:21
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A lot of the engines I work on don't have a magnetic drain plug, though I certainly would prefer a magnetic one for all the reasons given. I'm mostly suspicious of drain valves like that because I don't want to smack them on something off-road or road debris on the highway or something.
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Jul 27, 2020 03:29
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I heard that from somebody who's had a lot more time fixing cars than I have. Don't get mad at me. e: I've also never had a magnetic drain plug from the factory in any car I've owned (haven't changed oil yet on newest car, fwiw). Full Collapse fucked around with this message at 03:42 on Jul 27, 2020 |
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Jul 27, 2020 03:37
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kastein posted:A lot of the engines I work on don't have a magnetic drain plug, though I certainly would prefer a magnetic one for all the reasons given. I'm mostly suspicious of drain valves like that because I don't want to smack them on something off-road or road debris on the highway or something. Both of these for me, depending on the vehicle. I ran one on my WJ but don't on my TJ because the oil pan seems even more exposed. Likewise my Canyon's 2.8 doesn't have a magnetic plug, but the plug itself is facing straight down on the bottom center of the drain pan. It's already in a bad spot and adding *any* thickness could be an issue. On the other hand, my CR-V had zero clearance issues and no magnet in the factory plug, so I put one on it with a 90 degree elbow. Made for super quick oil changes with basically no chance of a mess. I'm sort of tempted to throw one on the LS in the C10 because it would also have no clearance issues. It does have a magnet on the plug but as an engine with aluminum block and heads there has never been more than the slightest amount of schmoo on it. I'm also going to try installing one on the TJ's transfer case. It'll already be fully protected by the skid plate, and adding a hose nipple means it'll be possible to drain the case without it pouring all over said skidplate.
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Jul 27, 2020 03:42
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kastein posted:A lot of the engines I work on don't have a magnetic drain plug, though I certainly would prefer a magnetic one for all the reasons given. I'm mostly suspicious of drain valves like that because I don't want to smack them on something off-road or road debris on the highway or something. This forever. The convince sounds nice but a bolt is just so much less... dangly feeling.
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Jul 27, 2020 03:46
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IOwnCalculus posted:It does have a magnet on the plug but as an engine with aluminum block and heads there has never been more than the slightest amount of schmoo on it. Even in the best case engine for this, I'm still a bit concerned about the fact that these valves seem to be proud of the oil pan (internally) at least slightly when installed. So you're not getting all the oil out, and certainly not getting out all of the settled ferrous or non-ferrous schmoo unless it's just the right geometry pan (the kinds that have a small sump on a corner where the plug is would be the best case I'd assume).
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Jul 27, 2020 03:49
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On my previous car (MKVI GTI) the plug was at an angle and even with the valve in didn't dip below the splash shield. On the BRZ its at an angle as well, and the only issue I could see is if lever side ends up facing down and then maybe it would poke under the metal engine shield. As far as I can tell the drain plug on this car is not magnetic. I really only need to change the oil once per year so its not a big deal, it would just be nice to have when it is time for that.
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Jul 27, 2020 03:55
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