|
edit: ah hell i'm gonna leave this for a bit. worst snipe, here's Klinger eating a Jeep 
Pham Nuwen fucked around with this message at 05:57 on Jul 9, 2020 |
#
?
Jul 9, 2020 03:19
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 29, 2024 00:53 |
|
|
kastein posted:E: if you want a heat shield and the factory ones aren't cutting it, one of those double layer aluminum baking pans works great. Might have to get clever mounting it since Tek screws up into the floor will be strenuously objected to by any passengers  What about aluminum tape? Do you think the adhesive would be able to hold it up without melting? [e] the hard part would be getting the surface clean enough for it to even stick tho Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 13:17 on Jul 9, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2020 13:15
|
|
|
Ceramic coat the transmission tunnel.
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2020 15:30
|
|
|
Yeah been looking into that too, if I'm gonna spray the inside of the tub might as well do the ceramic.
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2020 16:05
|
|
|
Cross-posting from the GBS "What are you doing in quarantine?"-thread: I started this pre-quarantine, but as soon as school let out in March, it started going quicker. Lots of cutting, welding, painting and cursing later, it's about 98% done for now. There's a piece that took forever to have shipped due to Covid that just showed up and needs painted and installed between the tailgate and bumper and a couple little interior trim pieces are getting refinished and installed tonight. I took my twins out for a ride today and one of them said that it was OK, but there was "too much air going up his nose". The other one thinks it's awesome.       
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2020 22:16
|
|
|
Looks great, did you paint that yourself?
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2020 22:19
|
|
|
MomJeans420 posted:Looks great, did you paint that yourself? Yes, I did. All the bodywork as well as paint was done by me. In fact, the only thing anyone else has touched on it is early on I had a rear body mount that was cracked and they welded it and had the tires mounted at a shop. I later bought my own welder as I knew at that point it was a necessity to be able to complete the project myself.
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2020 22:32
|
|
|
That is excellent.
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2020 23:27
|
|
|
Goddamn that looks good.
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2020 23:41
|
|
|
That was a cool Jeep even when it was beat up and red - that blue looks great!
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2020 00:10
|
|
|
Astonishing Wang posted:That was a cool Jeep even when it was beat up and red - that blue looks great!  That's the day I bought it. It hid its rust well aside from a fist-sized hole on the driver's side Jeep logo. Most of it was hiding behind the flares. It spent its first 12 years in IN and the next 12 in CA before it came back to IN before I bought it. I checked it over before I bought it and knew mostly what I was getting into. The frame is solid which was my #1 priority as I didn't want to deal with patching or capping the frame. The almost inch-thick manilla envelope full of maintenance receipts from the last owner was icing on the cake. It runs like a top, doesn't leak anything and tracks nice and straight.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2020 00:35
|
|
|
Thinking about getting bigger tires because 235's just don't look right. Will going to 30's effect a stock jeep much?
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2020 19:02
|
|
|
The only big effect is going to be on power - they're not hugely larger (~5-6%), but don't you already have power issues? The 6-cyl was available with 30s and would be fine, but I don't know if I'd give up that much power for looks. But that's just me.
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2020 19:29
|
|
|
Applebees Appetizer posted:Thinking about getting bigger tires because 235's just don't look right. Will going to 30's effect a stock jeep much? It begins. 
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2020 19:59
|
|
|
I mean, putting more strain on the AX5 and d35 by going up in tire size without regearing is basically asking for trouble, but it's your Jeep...
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2020 21:07
|
|
|
My XJ has 31's and the stock gearing (something like 3.55 gear ratio) with the 4 liter and it's probably the limit of how far I'd go without more attention to the drivetrain. Around the town power is fine but it gets noticeably sluggish going up mountain passes, long freeway trips, etc. I usually have to take it out of overdrive and just buzz around at a higher RPM for a bit to keep the transmission from downshifting constantly.
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2020 21:36
|
|
|
Yeah it was just a thought, but if it's gonna gently caress with poo poo then probably not. I'm in Florida so it's all flat pavement. The spare has an old 31" KO2 on it and I was like drat that looks so much better 
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2020 21:44
|
|
|
mod sassinator posted:My XJ has 31's and the stock gearing (something like 3.55 gear ratio) with the 4 liter and it's probably the limit of how far I'd go without more attention to the drivetrain. Around the town power is fine but it gets noticeably sluggish going up mountain passes, long freeway trips, etc. I usually have to take it out of overdrive and just buzz around at a higher RPM for a bit to keep the transmission from downshifting constantly. Pfft, my XJ has 32 JK takeoffs with the stock drivetrain and I can do 80mph up the pass. In totally unrelated news, theres a weird clunking on the front passenger side wheel when turning after its been sitting overnight and goes away after I drive it a bit. 
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2020 07:14
|
|
|
I had 31s on my 4l TJ on 3.73 gears and it was "fine". I could still do highway speed. The road noise and vibration from the MT tires at that speed though 
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2020 19:59
|
|
|
I have a 2001 WJ with the 4.0l, the radiator fan just exploded on me and it already needed a new radiator, are those the types of things I really need to get OE, or can I get away with the cheaper stuff? I am quite strapped for money and am honestly not sure if it's even worth fixing at this point.
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2020 23:29
|
|
|
I've used a handful of aftermarket radiators and have never had an issue. I've never had to replace a fan, though.
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2020 00:11
|
|
|
I wouldn't sweat inexpensive aftermarket parts on either of those if needed. Question for anyone running air lockers. I've noticed that even the tiny ARB compressor has an equally tiny air tank, while my "OBA" only has the volume of a short skinny hose and a 1/4 NPT manifold. The air pressure drop when I engage the locker immediately restarts the compressor (Viair 88p hacked half to death) and it takes maybe three or four seconds to charge back up. Is this going to present a problem / should I investigate adding a small tank to the system?
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2020 08:20
|
|
|
DildenAnders posted:I have a 2001 WJ with the 4.0l, the radiator fan just exploded on me and it already needed a new radiator, are those the types of things I really need to get OE, or can I get away with the cheaper stuff? I am quite strapped for money and am honestly not sure if it's even worth fixing at this point. I've been very pleased with the CSF 3-row I put in my XJ last summer. Lowered engine temps noticeably. Before that I ran some no-name radiator for 4 years before it finally sprung a leak (thankfully a block from my house and not in the middle of the Mojave Desert). If you're strapped for cash I wouldn't worry about OEM, just get it running again. Go pull a fan from a junkyard, I'm sure there will be a whole row of WJs to choose from.
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2020 16:59
|
|
|
The Royal Nonesuch posted:I've been very pleased with the CSF 3-row I put in my XJ last summer. Lowered engine temps noticeably. Before that I ran some no-name radiator for 4 years before it finally sprung a leak (thankfully a block from my house and not in the middle of the Mojave Desert). If you're strapped for cash I wouldn't worry about OEM, just get it running again. Go pull a fan from a junkyard, I'm sure there will be a whole row of WJs to choose from. I would love to, but I live on Long Island and it seems like there aren't any pick your own junkyards until I'm off the island completely. If anyone knows of any to the contrary, it'd be much appreciated. And thanks for the advice too, I was a bit worried about aftermarket but it'd be great to save a couple hundred, not exactly sure what I'm gonna do with this thing but whether keeping it or selling it a new radiator and fan makes things a lot easier.
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2020 17:06
|
|
|
DildenAnders posted:I would love to, but I live on Long Island and it seems like there aren't any pick your own junkyards until I'm off the island completely. If anyone knows of any to the contrary, it'd be much appreciated. And thanks for the advice too, I was a bit worried about aftermarket but it'd be great to save a couple hundred, not exactly sure what I'm gonna do with this thing but whether keeping it or selling it a new radiator and fan makes things a lot easier. Rockauto will have a heart icon by popular parts for your car, YMMV but those are usually pretty safe. Looks like you have both Denso and CSF options among those.
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2020 17:18
|
|
|
Bought some used axles to get my JK from 3.21s to 3.73s. Is it worth reusing these knuckles or should they be replaced? Some of this is just caked on dirt, otherwise pretty rusty.
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2020 18:12
|
|
|
That's perfectly fine, just use a knotted wire wheel in an angle grinder to knock it off any machined surface you need to bolt something to before doing so. You can leave it on any as-cast surface, it's not hurting anything. Maybe go nuts with a rattle can to slow it down, but it'll be 20 or 30 years more before that's structurally concerning rust. E: if you ever have to do the wheel bearings, just assume those bolts are going to strip. Hammer a correct size socket on, if it feels like it'll strip, try the next size down. For example, most Jeeps use a 13mm 12pt for those, so given the crust factor, you could try a 1/2 (12.7mm) 12pt, or if that still feels sketchy, a 12mm. It's easier to recover if you do this before rounding it off instead of after you already hosed yourself over. If all else fails, Dremel the rust off and weld a 5/8-thread hexnut on nice and hot and it'll come out. Crown Automotive sells new unit bearing bolts if that happens. Half inch drive is better for those than 3/8. kastein fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Jul 26, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2020 18:51
|
|
|
Carpet was finally done for. Ripped out the seats and started to bedliner the inside. Honestly the Rustoleum ProGrade poo poo does a pretty good job for DIY stuff.  TrekArmor seat covers are en route. Soon this thing will be ready to Just Get Rained In Who Cares. Digital_Jesus fucked around with this message at 19:57 on Jul 26, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2020 19:52
|
|
|
I'd been trying to track down a weird noise in the CJ7 for months now. It sounded like some sort of air or liquid hissing, or a bit like a pissed-off cat, and it only happened when the engine had warmed up a bit. I replaced vacuum lines, disconnected belts, etc. but finally gave up and took it to the shop that installed my catalytic converter. He rode around with me for a bit, then told me to change the fan clutch and sent me on my way at no charge. $50 later (clutch and an alternator belt while I was at it) it seems like the noise is gone! I'm now plotting to drive from New Mexico up to Washington state and leave it with my dad. We're probably moving to either California or Washington soon, and if we go to CA we can't have the Jeep and if we go to WA, well, it'll already be there... And I guess if it breaks down along the way, maybe it wasn't worth keeping in the first place.
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2020 20:02
|
|
|
Still in the evapo-rust portion of my old D60 restoration and I keep finding random ball bearings on the garage floor. Can't wait to discover which bearing they're falling out of! giundy posted:Bought some used axles to get my JK from 3.21s to 3.73s. Is it worth reusing these knuckles or should they be replaced? Some of this is just caked on dirt, otherwise pretty rusty. Oh hey, I'm currently restoring an axle in the same shape so I've figured a few things out. As Kastein said, a knotted wire wheel on an angle grinder is your best friend for this stubbourn top level of rustmud. There's so much cast iron on knuckles that itll be fine. If you want to get them back to a "new" state of surface, I use any generic degreaser in a spray bottle to soak it several times to break down some of the stuff on the concave surfaces which you cant reach with a grinder - then leave it in several gallons of evapo-rust fully submerged for 24-48hrs. It'll come out grey and clean, just needs a final soft grind to get rid of any last stubborn bits. Then just mask off the contact surfaces and spraypaint it with whatever sturdy spraypaint and it's as good as new. example before:   after: 
tuna fucked around with this message at 00:43 on Jul 27, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2020 00:27
|
|
|
Pham Nuwen posted:I'd been trying to track down a weird noise in the CJ7 for months now. It sounded like some sort of air or liquid hissing, or a bit like a pissed-off cat, and it only happened when the engine had warmed up a bit. I replaced vacuum lines, disconnected belts, etc. but finally gave up and took it to the shop that installed my catalytic converter. He rode around with me for a bit, then told me to change the fan clutch and sent me on my way at no charge. $50 later (clutch and an alternator belt while I was at it) it seems like the noise is gone! What part of Washington? I'd offer to let you park it on our land if it cuts some of your first drive off and makes the move easier, but given the tweaker compound literally a half mile down the road, I'm not leaving anything there until we live there ourselves.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2020 03:25
|
|
|
kastein posted:What part of Washington? I'd offer to let you park it on our land if it cuts some of your first drive off and makes the move easier, but given the tweaker compound literally a half mile down the road, I'm not leaving anything there until we live there ourselves. East-central, near Moses Lake. I told Google Maps to avoid freeways and it's offering me two essentially equivalent routes: west across northern Arizona & southern Utah, then up through eastern Nevada to Boise, then west into Oregon; or up through western Colorado, cutting through the corners of Utah and Wyoming into Idaho up to Missoula, then across on Hwy 12 to Lewiston. The route through Colorado seems like it should offer more opportunities for gas, and overall slightly milder temperatures if I should break down in the middle of nowhere, but climbing all the way up to Silverton would surely slow things down. 
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2020 14:59
|
|
|
Hi Jeeple - My forney 110v stick welder crapped out. Still 'seems' to work but won't lay a bead. It will strike but not continue past the first. It works absolutely beautifully before this. I've replaced both the electrode holder and the ground strap since both showed wear, but it didn't help anything. Anyone have a recommendation for a cheap but reliable stick? I feel like used is probably the best way to go. There are a bunch of chinese options on Amazon for under $150 but all have about 5% negative reviews that I trust more than the 75% positives. Harbor freight is looking better all the time, since I'd actually have recourse/a place to return it if it takes a dump. Someone sell me their hobart for $50?
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2020 18:48
|
|
|
Pham Nuwen posted:East-central, near Moses Lake. I told Google Maps to avoid freeways and it's offering me two essentially equivalent routes: west across northern Arizona & southern Utah, then up through eastern Nevada to Boise, then west into Oregon; or up through western Colorado, cutting through the corners of Utah and Wyoming into Idaho up to Missoula, then across on Hwy 12 to Lewiston. The route through Colorado seems like it should offer more opportunities for gas, and overall slightly milder temperatures if I should break down in the middle of nowhere, but climbing all the way up to Silverton would surely slow things down. You sure you want to avoid freeways on those roads through Wyoming and Idaho? It's beautiful country, but off the main roads it's.... country. Huge stretches of two lane roads with absolutely nothing around for miles and miles. Not a great place to break down. At the very least, pack a tent and days of supplies, and a satellite communicator if you got one. (driving up through the tetons and yellowstone and then onto the highway and through montana is pretty chill, absolutely gorgeous, and goes through some towns) mod sassinator fucked around with this message at 21:43 on Jul 27, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2020 21:41
|
|
|
Pham Nuwen posted:East-central, near Moses Lake. I told Google Maps to avoid freeways and it's offering me two essentially equivalent routes: west across northern Arizona & southern Utah, then up through eastern Nevada to Boise, then west into Oregon; or up through western Colorado, cutting through the corners of Utah and Wyoming into Idaho up to Missoula, then across on Hwy 12 to Lewiston. The route through Colorado seems like it should offer more opportunities for gas, and overall slightly milder temperatures if I should break down in the middle of nowhere, but climbing all the way up to Silverton would surely slow things down. Ahhhh, we're like hours West of there anyways.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2020 21:48
|
|
|
mod sassinator posted:You sure you want to avoid freeways on those roads through Wyoming and Idaho? It's beautiful country, but off the main roads it's.... country. Huge stretches of two lane roads with absolutely nothing around for miles and miles. Not a great place to break down. At the very least, pack a tent and days of supplies, and a satellite communicator if you got one. 75 miles per hour in a 4-cylinder 1985 Jeep is a tall order. With just a bikini top on, it's also loud and windy. 65 is a lot more pleasant for humans and the vehicle alike. Even the most direct route doesn't pick up on freeways until Salt Lake City, and then it is huge stretches of *four* lane roads with absolutely nothing around for miles and miles, except for Boise (I've done the direct route before, even did it one time without stopping). Freeway is not entirely off the table, but having semis blasting past me for 10 hours straight doesn't exactly get me excited for it. If I wanted to be smart, I'd just ship it up there, but this seems potentially more enjoyable. I'm still trying to figure out if this exercise in automotive insanity is worth the time and potential frustration.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2020 22:02
|
|
|
I'm replacing the Brake Booster on my '95 XJ, is there a difference between the booster for the Cherokee vs Grand Cheorkee vs Wrangler? I'm afraid the guy at O'Riley's may have given me the wrong part. After replacing the booster, my two front brake caliper pistons won't retract anymore, causing the brake pads to always contact the rotor. This burned up one of my calipers, which I replaced along with fresh pads on that side, but I'm still having the same issue. I read somewhere that the hoses going from the body to the caliper can cause the issue, so i replaced both sides and still have it. After further troubleshooting I read that if you bleed the calipers and they retract then the issue is your master cylinder. After bleeding the calipers I was able to spin the wheel relatively freely, but there was still contact between the pads and rotors. I removed the master cylinder and noticed a leak from the rear, then I replaced it with a re-man, but now I'm having second thoughts about it since the whole system was working fine until my booster went out. Has anyone else had or heard of a similar issue?
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2020 01:40
|
|
|
Eaterofpoptarts posted:I'm replacing the Brake Booster on my '95 XJ, is there a difference between the booster for the Cherokee vs Grand Cheorkee vs Wrangler? I'm afraid the guy at O'Riley's may have given me the wrong part. According to RockAuto they are all different part numbers, and the XJ is specific to 1995-1996. That said I did the popular WJ (grand cherokee) booster swap into my XJ and it works fine, with the caveat that after bleeding it a bunch of times and getting nowhere I paid to have it machine-bled. I did a bleed a few months after that myself and still got bubbles out of it, so it can be a bit of a pain. I didn't properly bench bleed it though because I was lazy so yeah... I didn't have any problems with locked-up pots though.
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2020 02:54
|
|
|
kastein posted:
I'm going to deal with that pain now while they're off the jeep and get new bolts. tuna posted:Still in the evapo-rust portion of my old D60 restoration and I keep finding random ball bearings on the garage floor. I didn't know evapo-rust was a thing, guess I'll pick some of that up instead of knuckles.
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2020 04:34
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 29, 2024 00:53 |
|
|
Booster alone, or booster/master combo? I don't see how a mismatched booster could cause anything to the fronts only. Worst case scenario you have too much preload on the pushrod going from the booster to the master cylinder, so you're never truly off the pedal, and perhaps you have just enough gap on the rear drums that they aren't roasting as well.
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2020 06:21
|
|