|
my kinda ape posted:Correct. Hope you are looking at the right units... The LTU Rocket is meant to be used as a basestation. With the LTU LR, Pro, or Lite being used as a client. None of them will do 1Gbps right now. The LTU LR claims up to 600Mbps. The LTU Rocket has this as a note in the datasheet:  The only Ubiquiti products that can do 1Gbps right now are the AirFiber line or the Unfi Building to Building Bridge.
|
#
?
Jul 29, 2020 21:26
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 00:33 |
|
|
Thanks Ants posted:The Mikrotik Wireless Wire nRAY (https://mikrotik.com/product/wireless_wire_nray) seems like it would do you 1Gbps point-to-point. Configured out the box and paired to each other. 60Ghz PtP for under $300USD.. Impressive.
|
|
#
?
Jul 29, 2020 21:28
|
|
|
stevewm posted:Hope you are looking at the right units... Ah yeah I did see that when I was figuring out what to buy but I kind of forgot about it. Assuming they make good on the firmware upgrade thing I'm not too worried about it. Frankly we'd be ecstatic to get even 100Mbps as our current best option is 12 down 2.5 up. I'll be putting a LTU Rocket+60 degree antenna as the base station on a family friend's business and a LTU Lite at the location of each user. stevewm posted:60Ghz PtP for under $300USD.. Impressive. There's also these: https://store.ui.com/collections/operator-airmax-and-ltu/products/gbe Which are $260 for a pair and can do gigabit. Those and the Microtik thing are the best stuff I've found. I was hoping for something cheaper but $260 or $300 isn't the end of the world. I was hoping to use a $100 powerline network but the shed is on a different circuit than the house.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2020 00:09
|
|
|
I need some help in finding some wall mount rack(s) options for the space I have. I think I'm going to end up putting two 5 or 6U racks "side by side" and wondering if that's a common thing or not. Here's the space I have to work with, which is in my garage. Those other two boxes are breaker panels, so I need to keep clear of those to keep within NEC.  I'm crowded out by my breaker panel, and water heater area. That wall on the left there seems appealing, but is likely a pain in the rear end to get too, being above the water heater.  So, I have this area right above the door to work with:   (some of the cable I've been running hanging out there — any ideas for wire bushings / grommets to clean up the look from the outside?) Rough dimensions:   The stuff that I want put in rack:
Notionally I'd run the PDU to an UPS on a separate wall shelf somewhere. So that's easily 6U right now which "raw" is 9", and then add on some overhead of the rack and I don't think you can go much more without running into the roughly 14" height limit. With "everything" planned in the future right now, that's 9U. My plan is to stack the patch panels / switches such that I can use 6" patch cables to interlink them, so it'll end up something like patch, switch, switch, patch or patch, switch, patch, switch. I think "logically" speaking, I could 4-5U on just switching, and then 3U on just my WAN (cable modem / router) and WiFi/Video (UniFi controller). Since my WAN link is weak (Comcast), in terms of data linkage if I was to split the rack, it would just be 2 patch cables. StarTech has some reasonable options for 6U racks, both enclosed and unenclosed — enclosed seems like it's "better" but curious what people's thoughts on that are, and if I'm thinking about this sanely. I don't really want to split the patch panels from the switches because the tiny 6" patch cables keep it pretty tight looking. fake edit Just remembered: there's some very basic coax action going on as well. I don't use it right now, except taking advantage of some coax links for MoCA right now before I run Ethernet. Should I just keep that off on its own wall-mount thing, or are there actual clean 1U-ish rack mount coax splitter / distribution type stuff as well? movax fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Jul 31, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2020 02:13
|
|
|
I noticed my internet will consistently cut out between 1:20AM and 1:25AM every night lately. I've narrowed it down to the cable modem based on the uptime it reports, a Netgear CM1000. I'm going to start keeping an eye on the firmware version, but I doubt Comcast is actually pushing changes that frequently. Googling around I see others describing a similar issue, but couldn't find any concrete information on how to fix it. Any ideas?
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2020 09:47
|
|
|
When I had Comcast my modem and set top boxes would all reset at around that time too.
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2020 13:36
|
|
|
fletcher posted:I noticed my internet will consistently cut out between 1:20AM and 1:25AM every night lately. I've narrowed it down to the cable modem based on the uptime it reports, a Netgear CM1000. I'm going to start keeping an eye on the firmware version, but I doubt Comcast is actually pushing changes that frequently. Googling around I see others describing a similar issue, but couldn't find any concrete information on how to fix it. Any ideas? Check the modem event log ADVANCED > Administration > Event Log in the UI
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2020 17:18
|
|
|
skipdogg posted:Check the modem event log ADVANCED > Administration > Event Log in the UI Thanks! Here's what I see there:  Not sure what to make of it
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2020 19:47
|
|
|
The modem or the cable network is hosed. Rule the modem out by asking someone living nearby if their service also drops.
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2020 20:04
|
|
|
Sorry for the crossposting spam but I am not sure where this best fits so I am tossing it in a couple threads, can't really determine the right keywords to search otherwise I would just dig into google results. I have a docker host and want to migrate to NginxProxyManger to handle my LetsEncrypt SSL cert. I have a couple web services on my local network that I want to present to the public internet. Lets called these ServiceA, B and C, most of them are other docker instances but some are physical hosts, all with a specific port I need to reverse proxy to. I *somehow* want the following to work Hit mydomain.com:443 -> Proxy to an internal non-SSL apache instance on port 80 Hit mydomain.com:1234 -> Proxy to an internal docker service on port 8888 Hit mydomain.com:9999 -> Proxy to some other internal non-SSL service Now NPM has "proxy hosts", and "redirection hosts". I am not sure which I want to be using, moreso I am not sure how I properly configure NPM to take connections from the above 3 ports and send them elsewhere. I can get one service working fine, but can't figure out what I need to be doing to break out traffic based on inbound port, because out of the box NPM assumes your router/firewall is sending everything inbound to it via single port. Does that make sense to anyone? Like I said I have been struggling even trying to articulate my issue even though it seems simple on the surface.
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2020 22:27
|
|
|
I don't know what NPM is but I'd just have 3 server blocks with a location / { proxy_pass 172.whatever.docker:1234 } in it.
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2020 22:45
|
|
|
NPM is going to make people presume you're talking about node package manager, a thing which should be cast into the sea. Never used NginxProxyManager but nginx has a reverse proxy. I will also warn that nginx is on borrowed time since the F5 acquisition. I would consider other tools such as haproxy. this has everything you need: https://www.nginx.com/resources/wiki/start/topics/examples/full/ See that second `server` block? Put port 1234 in there instead of 80 and fill out the rest just like your first proxypass stuff. "nginx listen on alternate port" is likely a good candidate, that's all you're doing. You could also do name based virtual hosting where you have like awfulapp.dumbdomain.com:80 -> backend1, terribleidea.dumbdomain.com:80 -> backend2, etc. Same idea just you fill out the "hostname" portions differently.
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2020 23:01
|
|
|
Real quick with AT&T fiber do you have to use their gateway? Trying to help a friend. Didn't know if you can connect a router direct to the ONT like I can with CenturyLink.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2020 03:25
|
|
|
Charles posted:Real quick with AT&T fiber do you have to use their gateway? Trying to help a friend. Didn't know if you can connect a router direct to the ONT like I can with CenturyLink. Generally speaking, yes you do have to use their gateway. There is a way to effectively disable routing/wireless functionality and use your own though. It IS possible to not use their gateway, but it takes a lot of tinkering and may not work 100% of the time after power loss, if I remember correctly. You basically have to make your router spoof the gateway's authentication.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2020 03:47
|
|
|
OK his broke and I wanted to see if he could bypass it totally until a new one comes in.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2020 04:11
|
|
|
movax posted:I need some help in finding some wall mount rack(s) options for the space I have. I think I'm going to end up putting two 5 or 6U racks "side by side" and wondering if that's a common thing or not. All of your stuff looks pretty thin, maybe you could use something like this https://www.techly.com/19-ghost-rack-cabinet-with-white-blind-door.html?___store=en_ty
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2020 12:12
|
|
|
The AX6600 I ordered a couple months back finally arrived. I am now hearing about 6GHz stuff dropping later this year and early next year. Question: If I am not planning to live in a high density apartment or otherwise crowded signal space, will I be able to get the same speeds on the 5Ghz channel of the AX6600? We are not a high device count house, (<10), and I read speeds are the same across the technology aside from signal interference from other devices. Checking in because $500 investment on the routers was a ridiculous investment and if I should return these bad boys then I will.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2020 19:04
|
|
|
SlowBloke posted:All of your stuff looks pretty thin, maybe you could use something like this Interesting! Looks pretty sharp, but I think it's too wide for the space I have (1210 mm -> 47", only have ~ 41" to work with.) I think I'm going to have keep the floor clear:  Other idea could be to put it outside, but I'd rather keep the garage clear:  Doesn't really get me much besides some more horizontal space. I guess the only advantage is that inside of the mechanical room is completely clear overhead if someone's moving around something tall in there, but they'd have to through the same door anyways... e: How terrible is something this cheap likely to be? At least returns could be easy since I can just drive it down to the AmazonFresh. movax fucked around with this message at 22:51 on Aug 2, 2020 |
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2020 22:47
|
|
|
V7 is an Ingram Micro own-brand, so I would assume the quality will be reasonable. You'll burn through 6U really quickly though so get the biggest thing you can physically fit into the space you have. The 9U version of that is £90 so I'm sure you can get it for not much more than the 6U one.
Thanks Ants fucked around with this message at 00:17 on Aug 3, 2020 |
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2020 00:09
|
|
|
Thanks Ants posted:V7 is an Ingram Micro own-brand, so I would assume the quality will be reasonable. You'll burn through 6U really quickly though so get the biggest thing you can physically fit into the space you have. The 9U version of that is £90 so I'm sure you can get it for not much more than the 6U one. 9U would actually be perfect but I don't have the height above the door for it. Currently looking at this NavePoint as the height just squeaks in, and putting 2 side-by-side: https://smile.amazon.com/NavePoint-Enclosure-Cabinet-Switch-Depth-Perforated/dp/B0794MNZ82/
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2020 01:48
|
|
|
Other than dimension, are you set on open frame vs. enclosed? I would think having them enclosed especially in the tight space you have would be a pain in the rear end to deal with. It’s a utility closet, it doesn’t need to be pretty.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2020 02:45
|
|
|
devmd01 posted:Other than dimension, are you set on open frame vs. enclosed? I would think having them enclosed especially in the tight space you have would be a pain in the rear end to deal with. It’s a utility closet, it doesn’t need to be pretty. True — not set on enclosed, I just figured it would be good for keeping dust / whatever out of it. I ordered two of the enclosed ones to do a bit of fit-checking, but if I run into issues I can revisit the open-frame ones.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2020 04:06
|
|
|
So I currently have one of these plugged into my gigabit internet and acting as my router/wifi AP for my house: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQDZXA4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I've got ethernet wiring in all rooms which is great and serves most of my needs as my PC and media devices are all connected via ethernet. However there's a wifi dead spot in one room that makes it hard to keep phones etc. on the wifi in there. Is there a reasonably inexpensive AP I can buy that will plug into an ethernet port and provide access via the same WiFi SSID I'm using elsewhere in the house?
|
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2020 20:11
|
|
|
The Oldest Man posted:So I currently have one of these plugged into my gigabit internet and acting as my router/wifi AP for my house: You can technically use just about any consumer wireless router out there. The general guidelines are either: -Put the router in a mode to extend a network (AP mode is a common term) and enter your network settings. This is device-specific and may not be available on everything out there. OR -Manually configure the router to do what you want: 1. Disable DHCP. 2. Set its wireless network settings to have the same SSID/password/encryption as your main wireless router, and make sure this router’s channel settings are different from and not overlapping the main router. 3. Plug the network cable from your wall into a LAN (not WAN) port on the new router. Voila, you should be good to go. Edit: if you’re looking for something reliable with good WiFi, I do have a spare AirPort Extreme AC sitting around that I can part with. It does have a configureable bridge mode that’ll do what you want. PM me if interested, maybe $60 plus shipping? smax fucked around with this message at 21:10 on Aug 4, 2020 |
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2020 21:06
|
|
|
Thanks Ants posted:The modem or the cable network is hosed. Rule the modem out by asking someone living nearby if their service also drops. Replaced the Netgear CM1000 with an Arris SB8200 and it seemed to resolve the issue, no 1:20AM 5 minute outage for the last two nights! Hopefully I can just RMA this Netgear and then sell the replacement they give me.
|
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2020 23:35
|
|
|
I have pfSense running on a QOTOM Mini PC Core I5 5200U. Has wifi, SSD, etc and has been rock solid for me on my gigabit Spectrum internet. Would anyone be interested in buying it? I am thinking about tempting fate and getting the UDM Pro as I just upgraded to a nanoHD I'd like to get everything under a single pane of glass.
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2020 15:21
|
|
|
sellouts posted:I have pfSense running on a QOTOM Mini PC Core I5 5200U. Has wifi, SSD, etc and has been rock solid for me on my gigabit Spectrum internet. I would suggest sticking to the qotom for a while , udmpro is still flaky firmware-wise.
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2020 15:35
|
|
|
SlowBloke posted:I would suggest sticking to the qotom for a while , udmpro is still flaky firmware-wise. yeah I know. I also like playing with fire and have a backup router if things go super sideways.
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2020 15:44
|
|
|
I have a Netgear C6220 at home. Wifi/Cable Modem combined. https://www.netgear.com/home/products/networking/cable-modems-routers/C6220.aspx Xfinity is saying I've been using up to 2TB/month in bandwidth recently. Not terribly surprising given I have 3 Nest security cams and we're streaming poo poo constantly. But I would like to really be able to get granular with what is using the traffic. What's my best method to monitor over the course of a month?
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2020 16:04
|
|
|
BonoMan posted:I have a Netgear C6220 at home. Wifi/Cable Modem combined. By using a not-combined modem/router and a router with better insights
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2020 16:53
|
|
|
Buff Hardback posted:By using a not-combined modem/router and a router with better insights I'm up for suggestions. Been meaning to replace this thing for a while anyway. I know Ubiquiti is kind of the go to and that's what we have here at work, but what setup do folks use at home?
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2020 18:07
|
|
|
BonoMan posted:I'm up for suggestions. Been meaning to replace this thing for a while anyway. I know Ubiquiti is kind of the go to and that's what we have here at work, but what setup do folks use at home? Ubiquiti dpi/historical data is kind of a mess. Having a USG myself, I would suggest anything but a unifi router for that purpose.
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2020 18:53
|
|
|
Google Wifi, any privacy concerns aside, does this fantastically well. My nest cams used 51gb each over the last month if it helps.
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2020 19:12
|
|
|
KS posted:Google Wifi, any privacy concerns aside, does this fantastically well. Ah well I'm heavily invested in the Google/Nest ecosystem and was looking at the Google Mesh system anyway. I could be making this up in my head, but did I read about the gen 2 not being as good as the gen 1 for some reason?
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2020 19:20
|
|
|
Remember google has a history of randomly deciding it doesn't want to support hardware anymore and remotely bricking them.
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2020 19:23
|
|
|
SlowBloke posted:Ubiquiti dpi/historical data is kind of a mess. Having a USG myself, I would suggest anything but a unifi router for that purpose. Likely way above what the OP is talking about but maybe you'd find this useful? https://community.ui.com/questions/...bb-d95d3896d1a1
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2020 23:30
|
|
|
There is no way in hell I’m putting internet-connected cameras on the outside of my house. Besides the bandwidth use, I don’t want to rely on paying for some cloud service that will disappear in 2 years. When I get around to designing a camera system my gun safe has power and Ethernet pass through, so the IP camera DVR goes inside there.
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2020 00:05
|
|
|
sellouts posted:Likely way above what the OP is talking about but maybe you'd find this useful? The main problem is that the dpi categories are all messed up so a lot of stuff will end up in letsencrypt or generic https, also there is a different dpi category for each bittorrrent or emule variant rather than going by protocol. Having to set up a ELK stack to compensate for shite definitions is not the best IMHO.
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2020 12:17
|
|
|
Sanity check on my plan here I currently have a R7000 but after I upgraded to gigabit due to WFM, I've been noticing some issues I rarely get rated speeds and the router seems to choke and reboot several times a week. I'm thinking my best bet is to repurpose the R7000 to an AP and get a ubiquiti router Now, given that my upload is 40mbps and I don't really do much torrenting, I don't think I need any QOS, so I could probably get by with the Edgerouter X and turn on hardware offset so that I can get the gigabit speeds Does this track, or do I need to put down some extra and get the Lite? Epiphyte fucked around with this message at 00:10 on Aug 8, 2020 |
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2020 23:13
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 00:33 |
|
|
So, i'm wondering if anyone can help me with a bit of a strange issue that's just started happening on my home network. Essentially earlier this week my home computer was no longer able to access teams.microsoft.com or tasks.office.com with the browser saying 'establishing secure connection'.. Also, things like sharepoint.com opened slowly, but sections of the site wouldn't load properly such as certain icons. This occurred in chrome and then in edge (which was the first time i'd used Edge). Today, I've tried accessing store.steampowered.com from my browser and it loads fine, however the Steam app fails to load any images or icons properly and it seems to be taking a bit longer to connect to everything. All of this also occurs on my laptop. After my Office issues, my work's IT dept asked me to try logging into our work VPN. This fixed the issue and also seems to fix the issue I've just discovered with steam. My router is is the Huawei 5G CPE Pro and i'm on the Three ISP 4G/5G broadband network. Inside the router i'd already told it to set the DNS server manually due to previous 'establishing secure connection' issues i'd been having. These are set to: Primary IPv4 DNS server 8.8.8.8 Secondary IPv4 DNS server 8.8.4.4 Primary IPv6 DNS server 2001:4860:4860::8888 Secondary IPv6 DNS server 2001:4860:4860::8844 I've cleared cookies and history in my browser, reset the router, flushed the DNS and done a netsh winsock reset on my computer. None of this has changed anything. The only things I've not tried yet are factory resetting the router or letting it set the DNS automatically (though i'm not sure what either would achieve). Anyone know what the common thing might be here? I'm assuming that the steam apps store page is basically just a built in web browser so that would explain why it's having the same issue as chrome and edge. Though the inconsistency with steam loading in chrome is throwing me off as is why it's only impacting a few things. edit: switching the router DNS settings back to auto didn't do do anything. Kin fucked around with this message at 12:30 on Aug 8, 2020 |
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2020 12:22
|
|
