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Finally got my Wrangler to the way I wanted it  Before  After  Sold all the parts I took off of it and it went towards all the new stuff to bring it back to stock. Only thing left it needs is shocks and a steering stabilizer. Picked up a bikini top and a cab cover for when it's parked for longer periods. Took out the carpet, and added a newer set of seatbelts cuz the rear didn't have any. Got a matching spare tire which was a hell of a lot cheaper than getting 5 KO2's, all in all I'm about 5k into it which isn't bad at all. Picked up the yakima bike rack cheap, and my paddle board straps to the top easily so it's my toy that caries my other toys now 
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Jul 28, 2020 17:23
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Looking drat good. My wife saw what I assume was probably a JL/JT in some form of teal the other day. Is roll-on Rustoleum still A Thing?
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Jul 28, 2020 18:24
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IOwnCalculus posted:Looking drat good. I did it on an MG Midget a few years back. I think a Jeep is about the only other vehicle I'd consider for the process, because it's incredibly slow and tedious but a Jeep is... reasonably small.
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Jul 28, 2020 18:26
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I was kinda surprised how quick I sold the stuff I didn't want....Hitch, wide fenders, wheels.....Even sold the carpet for $50
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Jul 28, 2020 18:36
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:According to RockAuto they are all different part numbers, and the XJ is specific to 1995-1996. Thanks for the info. I looked at RockAuto yesterday before making this post and saw that they were different part numbers, but I didn't know if that meant anything for the actual part its-self or it if was just for RockAuto's inventory purposes. IOwnCalculus posted:Booster alone, or booster/master combo? Separate parts. Originally just the booster, Master Cylinder yesterday. If the rears were smoking then I didn't notice it, but the right front was smoking pretty heavily so that may have also just pulled my attention away. After watching several videos to make sure I didn't mess anything up, it seems that I messed something up. Apparently there is supposed to be a spacer at the back of the booster at the firewall, which is supposed to give it just enough to make everything line up. Either it is still on the back of the core that O'Riley's has already sent off, or it was never there in the first place. At any rate I'm going to go to a pull-a-part yard and try to get one from an XJ sitting around. I'll report back with my findings if anyone is curious, or if anyone has an extra laying around they're willing to sell me that would work as well. Thanks for the help everyone, I really appreciate it. Eaterofpoptarts fucked around with this message at 01:10 on Jul 29, 2020 |
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Jul 29, 2020 00:52
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Pham Nuwen posted:I did it on an MG Midget a few years back. I think a Jeep is about the only other vehicle I'd consider for the process, because it's incredibly slow and tedious but a Jeep is... reasonably small. Yeah I'm undecided. Looking at the ones that come out good, it sure looks like you're trading not needing a sprayer for needing lots of coats, and more sanding on the backend. Sprayers are cheap, I have a compressor, and as you said a Jeep has a pitifully small painted area. Also seems like tinting isn't an option with the roll on methods, whereas actual auto paints come in whatever color I feel like. Plus if I spend a bit on tools I can reuse, it could come in handy on my other two vehicles with poo poo paint. The TJ is just the worst by far visually, and also the one where I will care the least if my technique is subpar the first time.
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Jul 29, 2020 08:02
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yeah I'm undecided. Looking at the ones that come out good, it sure looks like you're trading not needing a sprayer for needing lots of coats, and more sanding on the backend. Sprayers are cheap, I have a compressor, and as you said a Jeep has a pitifully small painted area. Also seems like tinting isn't an option with the roll on methods, whereas actual auto paints come in whatever color I feel like. The MG came out as a pretty good 10-foot paint job. If you went right up to it you'd see that the paint had some odd texture, and the paint was both thin and soft, but on the other hand I believe I could have touched up blemishes with the corresponding spray-on Rustoleum to good effect if needed. It was a slow process, though, and watery yellow paint residue got all over my garage and driveway.
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Jul 29, 2020 16:20
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Alright, my 2000 XJ is having a weird issue. 4.0, automatic. The battery has been either draining or the battery is going bad... might be relevant but it's not the concern. The concern is after I get it started, it won't idle until I let it run for a few minutes, then it's fine. If I let off of the gas it sputters and dies. It isn't all the time and it isn't every time it needs to be jumped, but it seems to be that every time it needs jumped (or cranks slow because the battery is low) it happens. Thoughts? Things I can check? It runs fine once it can idle.
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Jul 30, 2020 14:35
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CornHolio posted:Alright, my 2000 XJ is having a weird issue. 4.0, automatic. The battery has been either draining or the battery is going bad... might be relevant but it's not the concern. The concern is after I get it started, it won't idle until I let it run for a few minutes, then it's fine. If I let off of the gas it sputters and dies. It isn't all the time and it isn't every time it needs to be jumped, but it seems to be that every time it needs jumped (or cranks slow because the battery is low) it happens. If the battery goes dead the computer can forget how to idle and will need to run for a few minutes to figure things out. Go have an auto parts store check your alternator. It's free and might be the source of your power drain.
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Jul 30, 2020 15:08
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If it ends up being the alternator - look into swapping to one from a 2006 Durango. It's 160 amps instead of the 117ish that comes in Jeeps. It was a direct swap on my TJ but on an xj with stock alternator you may need to upgrade a wire.
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Jul 30, 2020 17:16
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Cat Hatter posted:If the battery goes dead the computer can forget how to idle and will need to run for a few minutes to figure things out. That actually sounds exactly like what's going on. The voltmeter in the cluster shows the alternator is putting out a healthy 14V while running so I don't think it's that, plus I don't know how old this battery is. I bought this Jeep a couple of years ago after it had sat in a friend's driveway for a year with a dead battery - brought it home and charged the battery on a charger and it's been fine, but I gotta think sitting like that reduced the life of the battery. Astonishing Wang posted:If it ends up being the alternator - look into swapping to one from a 2006 Durango. It's 160 amps instead of the 117ish that comes in Jeeps. It was a direct swap on my TJ but on an xj with stock alternator you may need to upgrade a wire. I thought there was a 160 amp alternator option for the XJ unless I'm thinking of a different vehicle. edit: guess not. Rockauto shows an expensive 124 amp option but that's the biggest one. I might look into this if the Durango alternator isn't a lot more expensive. CornHolio fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Jul 30, 2020 |
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Jul 30, 2020 18:57
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Last I looked (that same alt is also an upgrade for WJs) it was as cheap as any other alternator.CornHolio posted:The voltmeter in the cluster shows the alternator is putting out a healthy 14V while running Does that XJ actually have a real voltmeter? The TJ's voltmeter hardly moves at all since it's reporting what the computer is telling it to show. 12V and 14V are basically indistinguishable on mine.
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Jul 30, 2020 19:15
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yeah whenever I pull the battery on my XJ it always starts up with a very misfirey and rich as hell reprogramming cycle in the ECU--it's totally normal. edit: Also I learned from experience, if your alt dies and the battery gauge is reading very low voltage the dashboard will light up a "CHECK GAUGES" light in the corner. Don't ignore that thinking it's just a flakey dashboard connection and start to drive 50 miles into a 100 mile road in the north cascades with zero cell service. Learned a lot about hitchiking that day! mod sassinator fucked around with this message at 19:20 on Jul 30, 2020 |
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Jul 30, 2020 19:18
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Discovered yesterday that my main cluster doesn't light up, but at least I can keep an eye on my oil pressure and voltage at night, even if I don't know how fast I'm going! the connections for the bulbs are really weird and lovely so no doubt something is just loose in there
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Jul 30, 2020 19:30
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The 160a Durango alternator was like $50 cheaper than the stock 117a type, and was in stock at one of the O'Reilly's in town too. No brainier for me! There's an extra bracket that for me didn't interfere with the ignition coil but it was close.
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Jul 30, 2020 19:35
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I've got a 230A alternator stock 
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Jul 30, 2020 19:47
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IOwnCalculus posted:Does that XJ actually have a real voltmeter? The TJ's voltmeter hardly moves at all since it's reporting what the computer is telling it to show. 12V and 14V are basically indistinguishable on mine. If that gauge says 14V, the system is at 14V. 12.xV (before starting) and 14.4V are clearly distinguishable.
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Jul 30, 2020 19:57
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Krakkles posted:The bold part is true, which is why everyone always says it doesn’t. But I have to say ... I’ve been working on the electrical system of my 2000 XJ for the last five years, and that voltmeter is as real as makes no difference. It reliably indicates the same thing as actual checks with a decent voltmeter at various points in the electrical system. Yeah it's sitting at around 9V when it isn't starting so I think it's at least reasonably useful. Good to know that 'not running right' after a dead battery seems to be perfectly normal.
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Jul 30, 2020 20:28
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Drove 600+ miles with a friend on a small vacation in his 2011 wrangler. It made me long for a cheap beater manual soft top. i know this is a REALLY broad question but is there anything really wrong with a cheap wrangler with 200k miles on it ? I can do car work changing brakes, and slightly harder,but i have no other tools at the moment. But I can aquire and learn as I go, but i;m not machining replacement engine parts. What should I 100% avoid and look for ? I'm really into a manual beater softtop for $cheap I can fool around with over time and pretend that is what my daughter will learn to drive on. Everyone needs to learn stick. The Venn diagram of cost, parts availability and frustration is what i know nothing about
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Jul 30, 2020 20:49
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The biggest problem is the Jeep Tax -- there are a zillion Wranglers out there but they're desirable and therefore overpriced. Once you get past that, there are a zillion Wranglers out there and they're really well understood. The problem areas are well known, and parts availability isn't a problem.
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Jul 30, 2020 21:06
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Roundboy posted:Drove 600+ miles with a friend on a small vacation in his 2011 wrangler. It made me long for a cheap beater manual soft top. i know this is a REALLY broad question but is there anything really wrong with a cheap wrangler with 200k miles on it ? Cheap wranglers are kind of unicorns--they're really hard to find. Nothing wrong with 200k miles but be prepared for catching up on some maintenance with the suspension, bearings, etc. They're easy to work on and parts are pretty cheap, but you will want some basic hand tools (and some long breaker bars because 200k mile rusty bolts loving suck to get off). You really want the 4 liter I6 engine too--the 4 cylinder can barely make it up hills. But finding a cheap 4 liter wrangler that isn't totally clapped out is a challenge. Also if you're living or searching in rust prone areas watch out and don't buy something that's rotting away. I'd avoid buying someone's previous 'project' or 'off-roader' too--usually the cheap ones are cheap because the owner put in the cheapest, poo poo parts and ignored all the other critical maintenance. You're going to spend more time and money putting them back to stock than just finding a cleaner one to start with.
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Jul 30, 2020 21:07
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Im finding 1997-99 wranglers for $2k-$3k with 200-300k miles, and that is right on the edge of 'gently caress it' to me. I have a big garage and i don't mind learning how to swap crap out, major stuff like new engine, etc yeah, no. I do have to say now that i look in depth, they are 2.5L I4, so I guess everything I see is not worth it. I looked up the 2011 i rode in and its apparently a 3.8 v6, so that could get out of its own way on the highway, I don't care about tricking it out to go vertical up a hill, i just want something fun and topless in a manual to put some time into
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Jul 30, 2020 21:16
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CornHolio posted:Yeah it's sitting at around 9V when it isn't starting so I think it's at least reasonably useful. -O2 sensor heater is dead -MAF is filthy and wildly underreporting airflow -coolant temp sensor is stuck at 160F Jeep owners - it's fine, the ECU just has to relearn for all the poo poo that's wrong with it if you disconnect the battery
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Jul 30, 2020 21:16
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Roundboy posted:Im finding 1997-99 wranglers for $2k-$3k with 200-300k miles, and that is right on the edge of 'gently caress it' to me. I have a big garage and i don't mind learning how to swap crap out, major stuff like new engine, etc yeah, no. Yeah this thread is filled with people contemplating and even regretting a 4 cylinder wrangler decision. It's an ancient I4 that feels more like an engine from 1980 than 2000. The 4 liter is worth the wait to find a good one. Be ready to move on it instantly with cash in hand to get one if you're watching craigslist. Good wranglers for good prices don't last long on car sale sites. edit: It's a little contentious but the 4 liter I6 IMHO is a better engine than the 3.8 V6 from a minivan you drove too. Gas mileage is complete poo poo in the 4 liter but it makes as much power and can be as fun to drive as a 5 liter Mustang of the same era. mod sassinator fucked around with this message at 21:29 on Jul 30, 2020 |
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Jul 30, 2020 21:25
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mod sassinator posted:Yeah this thread is filled with people contemplating and even regretting a 4 cylinder wrangler decision. It's an ancient I4 that feels more like an engine from 1980 than 2000. The 4 liter is worth the wait to find a good one. Be ready to move on it instantly with cash in hand to get one if you're watching craigslist. Good wranglers for good prices don't last long on car sale sites. From experience, I owned a 2.5L 1995 wrangler YJ and it was fun but slow as poo poo. It was, I don't know, terrible in a good way. The leaf spring suspension was unforgiving and the ride quality was bad, but I'd basically floor it around town bouncing and skittering over potholes and passing other drivers. On the highway it was objectively terrible, struggling to make it up hills at anything over 45 mph. I also owned a 4.0L 2003 wrangler TJ. It was more powerful and could move on the highway, but it was really comfortable cruising around 65mph. Definitely struggled to pass a military convoy on a state highway in Wyoming. That said, it wasn't *bad*, just not fast. I could spin tires on wet ground if I wanted to. The 3.8 V6 in the JK feels more powerful than either of the above (and it beats the 4.0 by almost 90hp). It's more competent on the highway, but I think it's less fun overall. In my opinion, the charm of the jeep is in its smallness. I think the JK and JL Wranglers have lost that small chuckable terrible truck feeling. Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 21:45 on Jul 30, 2020 |
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Jul 30, 2020 21:43
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Roundboy posted:Drove 600+ miles with a friend on a small vacation in his 2011 wrangler. It made me long for a cheap beater manual soft top. i know this is a REALLY broad question but is there anything really wrong with a cheap wrangler with 200k miles on it ? I'm somewhere over $10k NEVER ADD THE RECEIPTS into my $4500 TJ with "180k" miles. Enough of those miles were on a speedometer uncalibrated for 33s that I assume the real number is 190-200k. Would do again, though part of me wishes I had perhaps gone for the Wrangler that was in nicer condition overall that had no factory air conditioning and just swapped A/C into it. Most of what I've had to deal with on it is not strictly mileage related. My TJ was ridden hard and put away wet by the original owner. The axle swap was a lot of "well while I'm at it" on repairing a problem that crops up on TJs that get used hard at any age. I have swapped the entire steering linkage but that's going to be suspect on any Wrangler >10 years old, and it's relatively cheap and easy. Softtops and interiors are going to be crap, but the former is also cheap and easy to replace, and the latter, that's life with a cheap Jeep. The 2.5L Wranglers are pretty much only appropriate if you either plan on engine swapping, or you want to leave it near stock and don't particularly care about performance. Even just putting big tires (no matter how deep you go on gears) on a 2.5L would be problematic. The short-run 2.4L 4cyl ones might be okayish. mod sassinator posted:edit: It's a little contentious but the 4 liter I6 IMHO is a better engine than the 3.8 V6 from a minivan you drove too. Gas mileage is complete poo poo in the 4 liter but it makes as much power and can be as fun to drive as a 5 liter Mustang of the same era. I might be the weird one in that while I like the 4.0, I do not love it, and I'm not really all that convinced it's intrinsically much better than the 3.8 that came later. I'm pretty sure my 4.0 TJ is quicker than my friend's 3.8 JK, but he also has four doors, a much longer wheelbase, much larger tires, an auto, and a lot more weight to haul around in general. Both of us would much rather have a GM engine underhood. At least, it is an easy engine to work on, and no matter how many Bad Noises mine makes, it won't die. Another one of my friends has a 4.0 WJ with pretty much the same mileage on it as mine and his sounds like it's brand new in comparison. If you're like me and you like to sink a ton of time into research - I'd recommend test driving a TJ first and see what you think of it. There's still a pretty big gap between the TJ and JK in terms of how they feel going down the road, which may either be a big turnoff, or it might be exactly what you want. nonedit: because yes, the JK is loving huge compared to the TJ. I've never been in a 2door JK so maybe that fixes a bit of it but the TJ, for better or for worse, feels tiny. I loving love my "small chuckable terrible truck".
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Jul 30, 2020 21:53
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The carburetted 2.5 in my 85 CJ-7 (yes it's the same engine) will do freeway speeds and can make it up some decent hills if I'm already going fast. Frankly it's not too much worse than the I-4 in my 05 Ranger. Under, say, 35 mph it doesn't really seem to matter at all. The engine is pretty easy to deal with, but if I was buying another I'd strongly consider holding out for a 4L.
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Jul 30, 2020 21:54
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Update on my brake situation: It turns out it was in fact my goof because i neglected to get the old aluminum spacer from the back of the brake booster. Dug around and managed to find the measurements and intended to make one from plexiglass, but my dad happened to have a 1/4" aluminum sign sitting around for just such an occasion. We used a pencil and paper and made a rough rubbing as a template for the holes, then measured properly and went to work. This is what we came up with:  Drilled the holes with a press, knocked the burrs off and popped it on, worked like a charm. Feels good to make something from scratch and have it work exactly as intended, even if it is just an aluminum spacer haha. Thanks again for your help everyone!
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Jul 30, 2020 21:54
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CornHolio posted:That actually sounds exactly like what's going on. The voltmeter in the cluster shows the alternator is putting out a healthy 14V while running so I don't think it's that, plus I don't know how old this battery is. I bought this Jeep a couple of years ago after it had sat in a friend's driveway for a year with a dead battery - brought it home and charged the battery on a charger and it's been fine, but I gotta think sitting like that reduced the life of the battery. If I remember right, there is a way an alternator can go bad where is still charges well enough but causes a draw on the battery.
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Aug 1, 2020 22:04
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CornHolio posted:Alright, my 2000 XJ is having a weird issue. 4.0, automatic. The battery has been either draining or the battery is going bad... might be relevant but it's not the concern. The concern is after I get it started, it won't idle until I let it run for a few minutes, then it's fine. If I let off of the gas it sputters and dies. It isn't all the time and it isn't every time it needs to be jumped, but it seems to be that every time it needs jumped (or cranks slow because the battery is low) it happens. The ECU probably isn't getting enough voltage from the battery to operate properly and hold the idle. If you drive around for a bit or just weigh the pedal down in neutral it should eventually start taking a charge and work itself out. Very common nuance with the 4.0L after you've drained a battery or left it disconnected for too long, but a battery that's borderline charging it would give the same symptom.
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Aug 3, 2020 21:39
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After getting stuck in a mud hole a few weeks ago with a stock Rubicon JL, I wasted no time using this as an excuse to buy stuff. Before:  I ordered a stubby winch bumper, a winch plus other recovery accessories, 4" LEDs, and a Hi-Lift.  I also bought the Viair 88P compressor but was unimpressed with it. Takes way too long to air up 33s from 15 to 37 psi. So I ordered the single ARB CKMA-12 compressor with under-seat bracket for neatly installed onboard air. This one takes about 3 minutes for each tire. I probably should have bought the twin version.  The AUX switches in the JL make installing accessories pretty easy! I was able to throw out most of the bulky ARB harness and just use two electrical connections - power and ground - to run this guy.  Bonus pic from yesterday:  That trip tore up the stock fenders a bit so now I am looking into aftermarket fenders.
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Aug 5, 2020 22:53
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Pham Nuwen posted:East-central, near Moses Lake. I told Google Maps to avoid freeways and it's offering me two essentially equivalent routes: west across northern Arizona & southern Utah, then up through eastern Nevada to Boise, then west into Oregon; or up through western Colorado, cutting through the corners of Utah and Wyoming into Idaho up to Missoula, then across on Hwy 12 to Lewiston. The route through Colorado seems like it should offer more opportunities for gas, and overall slightly milder temperatures if I should break down in the middle of nowhere, but climbing all the way up to Silverton would surely slow things down. Well, I've decided to give this a shot. It's automotive insanity for sure, but a friend is flying out from Washington to make the drive with me and we're just gonna see what happens. We're leaving in the second week of September. Current plan is to take the eastern (highlighted) route. I was contemplating putting in a Weber carb before leaving but, well, the YFA seems to work ok so maybe I won't mess with it. If it dies, my plan is to beg my dad to rent a U-Haul trailer and come get us... hell, he might even have a flatbed these days, I haven't been home in a while.
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Aug 6, 2020 21:57
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Pham Nuwen posted:Well, I've decided to give this a shot. It's automotive insanity for sure, but a friend is flying out from Washington to make the drive with me and we're just gonna see what happens. We're leaving in the second week of September. Current plan is to take the eastern (highlighted) route. I was contemplating putting in a Weber carb before leaving but, well, the YFA seems to work ok so maybe I won't mess with it.
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Aug 6, 2020 22:00
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I have a 2005 Liberty 3.7 liter, and I'm out of ideas on how to get it running again. We had an emergency and basically just drove the hell out of it going from east Tennessee to southern New Mexico without getting it checked out beforehand. We got out here and the starter died the next day. Finally got that in, changed the oil, and ran it locally for a couple of days until it stopped running again. Tested the alternator and that was blown, so we scraped up the money for that and replaced it. The jeep had been sitting for a couple of weeks at that point, so we figured the battery was low. Had a friend bring a new battery to see if that's all it was, but it'd sputter and almost start only to die. Double checked the belt and it was super tight, so we tried readjusting the tensioner, which set the belt back to where it should be, but it did the same thing when we tried cranking it again and the belt went back to being super tight. The idle pulley spins freely, so it isn't that. I don't know if I need to replace the tensioner or what. The ac compressor went out on the way here, but I don't know if that would affect anything or not. If I had any left, I'd pull my hair out at this point.
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Aug 7, 2020 23:20
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With the belt off, does the new alternator spin relatively freely (like, it's not locked up)? How about the rest of the accessories (AC, power steering)?
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Aug 7, 2020 23:31
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Just checked, everything spins except the ac compressor. I knew it was out, but I thought the pulley would spin regardless. Don't know why I didn't think to just try that. Any way to basically bypass it until I can afford a replacement?
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Aug 8, 2020 00:02
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Jesus Toast posted:Just checked, everything spins except the ac compressor. I knew it was out, but I thought the pulley would spin regardless. Don't know why I didn't think to just try that. Any way to basically bypass it until I can afford a replacement?
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Aug 8, 2020 00:31
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Actually there's a YouTube video where this guy did exactly that, with part numbers. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ypw5kUqk6L0 It's worth noting that the compressor itself may not be bad, it kinda sounds like the AC clutch bearing or something else in there causing interference.
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Aug 8, 2020 00:47
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angryrobots posted:Actually there's a YouTube video where this guy did exactly that, with part numbers.
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Aug 8, 2020 01:01
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angryrobots posted:Actually there's a YouTube video where this guy did exactly that, with part numbers. For what it's worth I've only ever seen this on cars with compressors that were totally smoked. It is impressive how the load of just one seized accessory on the belt will stop a car from starting reliably. My mom's Trailblazer would start and run with it, though. Made a fuckoff loud racket but she only had to drive to the dealership to trade it in, after all.
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Aug 8, 2020 01:12
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