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jamal posted:I would try re-bleeding the MC. The way I've bled a brake or clutch master cylinder is by routing a flexible hose from the port back into the reservoir, then pumping it until I don't get any more bubbles. You could also possibly do that with just one caliper open at a time, just slowly pump the brakes without closing the bleed port each time. That will let you flush a lot more fluid through the system and possibly get any air out of the MC or anything else without doing a full bench bleed. I did bleed the MC a second time; let about 1/2 reservoir full of fluid go through it. But I think you are probably right.
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Jul 29, 2020 15:53
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My stupid slow WRX Wagon rebuild is picking up a little steam. First picked up an EJ255 that was in a minor engine fire (timing cover was a little bubbled in one location but that appears to be it.   That is going to go to a machine shop soon to get honed for some new forged pistons. Im planning to shoot for between 350-400 whp so I think ill be safe with stock rods and crank. Next I found a 05 STi trans for a good price.  But it didnt come with a shift linkage so I still need to source that. Also found a stupid cheap JDM 03 STi rear end. Paid $160 for all of the below.    Next steps, figure out what brakes i'm going to switch to (4pot/2pot or bermbo), source a shift linkage, make sure these hubs work with my shocks, source a DCCD controller of some sort, acquire an EFR 6758 and a full race manifold.
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Jul 29, 2020 16:43
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i own every Bionicle posted:I did bleed the MC a second time; let about 1/2 reservoir full of fluid go through it. But I think you are probably right. Bled master cylinder again with some home made lines that go back into the reservoir. Then I pushed the caliper pistons in in the hopes they would push any air back out of the lines and into the reservoir. No change. Tried to use FreeSSM to cycle the ABS pump in direct sequence mode; could not do this because FreeSSM is a half finished 10 year old thing that nobody cares about. Then I started power bleeding the brakes with my red green style power bleeder (air fitting screwed to an old reservoir cap). On the first line, got some air bubbles. Motherfuckin yisssssss Let the reservoir go down 75% twice on that line, no more bubbles. Did two more lines no bubbles. I let about 1.5 reservoirs worth of fluid go through each line, letting it bleed for a while, checking and filling reservoir, repeat. On the final line I spaced and let the fluid level get too low and got air in everything again.  by then it was 10 o’clock (doing this after work) so I called it a night.I’ll bleed the MC and lines again tonight completely and see what happens.
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Jul 30, 2020 15:07
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I really hate to post this crap, but I'm having an issue that I can't get ahead of. 19 STI, AEM wideband controller (no gauge), AEM 340 LPH pump, Cobb ID 1050x, Cobb FPR, Cobb DP, Nameless muffler deletes. The plan is to be on flex once the sensor kits are in stock. All parts installed by me. E-tuned by Arcflash out of Bend, OR. Car was running great and we were just about to the final revision. Getting significant amounts of FBK and FKL on tip in and at partial throttle up to about 2 psi boost. DAM will be steady or drop to zero depending on which way the wind blows. Once at WOT there is no FBK or FKL. Things of note, DP was bought used, frame bracket was busted off of the pad, eventually started to squeak and probably bang around. Could hear it when letting out the clutch, going over bumps etc. It is fixed now. Air filter is new. MAF was cleaned 2 days ago. Fresh oil and filter change today, 23k miles. I messed up the fuel pump install initially by not installing the OEM output spacer. I pulled it back out once again (3rd time) the other day and made sure all the o-rings were seated. It has one AEM o-ring installed on the output. I have a spare OEM pump assy from a 19 STI with 5k. Everything I could touch has been wiggled to make sure it's tight. All maps that the car ran well on have the same exact behavior now. This has been going on now for about a week and I'm out of ideas, aside from reverting back to stock. I have logs, so many logs.
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Aug 1, 2020 04:12
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#4 plug was cracked. New plugs were put in yesterday, went for a drive and it felt great. My paranoia had me pulling injectors today, and like a fuckhead I didn't clean the receptacles. Got those cleaned up, made sure all the o-rings were super clean and lubed and swapped #4 and #2 that way if the issue comes back I can check #2 plug which would tell me if it's an injector. Here's to hoping I have it ironed out.
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Aug 2, 2020 22:14
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We have a 2017 Forester that needs a replacement windshield due to two rocks in the last 8 months. It doesn’t have EyeSight so non-OEM glass should be fine, right?
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Aug 4, 2020 22:44
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I guess this may be random, but a friend of mine is about to sell his White 2006 Outback XT. Manual 5 speed and just under 100K miles. It's in really nice shape, I think it may need a CV axle replaced, but it runs fine. I figured I would mention it here if anyone might be interested. He is in the DC metro area. PM me for details if you care to know more and I can put you in touch.
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Aug 5, 2020 14:58
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Is there a difference between the starter motor on the EZ30 and EJ25? I think I have worn brushes. Been quoted US$135+ as a phone guesstimate from an auto electrical place. Wondering if it'd be cheaper to get a junkyard part E: or is changing the brushes something that can be done DIY at home? simplefish fucked around with this message at 13:51 on Aug 6, 2020 |
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Aug 6, 2020 13:46
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It's kind of a pain, but the harder part will be finding someone willing to sell you a rebuild kit. They're the same between the two for automatic. The EZ30 never had a manual in the US Outback though, so if you're dealing with a manual EJ25, it uses a different starter. Is that $135 to rebuild your existing starter? That's not horrible to get the existing one rebuilt, and it'll probably outlast the car if it's a good shop. OTOH you can get a reman for ~$70 on Rockauto, or a brand new no-name on Rockauto for <$100.
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Aug 6, 2020 16:42
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You can also see if your local hardware store or tool place sells individual brushes
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Aug 6, 2020 18:17
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i own every Bionicle posted:Bled master cylinder again with some home made lines that go back into the reservoir. Then I pushed the caliper pistons in in the hopes they would push any air back out of the lines and into the reservoir. No change. Bled MC again, bled lines again. Pedal still soft. You could pump it up and it would get firm, but let it sit for a minute and it would go to the floor. Somebody told me that the master cylinder was suspect because it sat with no fluid in it. Fine. I pulled the MC, took it apart, didn’t see anything wrong (seals rolled over etc), but replaced it anyway. Bench bled it and then bled lines again. Pedal still loving goes to the floor. My dad, who has helping me, was convinced that one of the caliper pistons was retracting after being pumped and causing it for some reason. I don’t know why he thought that and neither did he. The calipers are not OEM, and for whatever reason the bleeders are on the bottom, not on the top of them.  . I really didn’t think anything of it, I mean there’s no way they put them in the wrong spot on both rear calipers right? I took one of the rear calipers off to show him the piston wasn’t retracting on its own for any reason, and on a whim, held it upside down so the bleeder was up for a one pump bleed. A little fart of air came out. Brakes are fine now. So, I wasted probably 15 hours and 250 dollars in a master cylinder and a shitload of fluid on this stupid thing. 
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Aug 7, 2020 13:21
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Bleeders on the bottom mean that somebody installed them upside down, i.e. The left is on the right side and vice versa. You'll need to swap sides and then they'll bleed fine. Ask me how I know...
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Aug 7, 2020 13:59
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Bajaha posted:Bleeders on the bottom mean that somebody installed them upside down, i.e. The left is on the right side and vice versa. You'll need to swap sides and then they'll bleed fine. Yep, seen this before in a high school auto shop.
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Aug 7, 2020 14:23
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gently caress, I guess the calipers got switched. I thought there was no way that could happen because there is a spot for the flex line to sit in and it didn’t look like it could go in if it were backwards but apparently it can.
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Aug 7, 2020 14:39
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Any ideas what's leaking oil on this 2.5GT (other than everything)? Freshly wet from front driver's side coil pack hole:  Driver's side (IIRC) from below:  Oil filter area:  Oil pan:  Full album with a few more shots: https://imgur.com/a/pFCtl15
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Aug 8, 2020 00:13
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Splinter posted:Any ideas what's leaking oil on this 2.5GT (other than everything)? Mine leaked everywhere when the PCV system wasn’t plumbed correctly and the crank case was pressurized. It could be that or it could have a hurt piston (ring lands). Put your hand over the oil cap when it’s running, you should feel suction. Of course compression/leakdown test would be recommended for any used turbo Subaru.
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Aug 8, 2020 01:12
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So I bought another Subaru 2 months ago, ostensibly for my brother to use and for which he'd be paying me back. It's an 09 Sport, bought it with 200k km on it. I own a 2004 rally prepped Impreza which I've torn down fairly extensively so I know them well enough. When we checked out the car, it had oil residue under the passenger side head, I couldn't tell if it was the head gasket or the valve cover that was leaking, and when probed the mechanic told me the PCV valve had been replaced by the Subaru dealership who sold him it, but was never cleaned so still had the oil residue. I talked him into a $3000 powertrain warranty as part of the sale, and went on my way. Today when my brother got home with it, he told me it developed a knock about 1 km away from our house, so it wasn't driven very far. Stupid me never checked the oil level after we bought the car and my brother hasn't been either, and he's now put about 4000 km on it. When I checked after he informed me of the knock, it was bone dry on the dip stick. It's not giving any codes so I'm assuming either the oil level wasn't checked by the mechanic who sold me it (and the car is about a month past it's safety certificate), or the PCV valve or other component is consuming oil. There has been no blue smoke, there is no visible leak, and otherwise no indication that anything was wrong. Just a sudden knock beginning. So, options, advice? I want to use this warranty but I doubt I'll be able to get an engine swapped in or a rebuild (esp. if they want to machine) for 3k. I could do it myself for cheaper of course but then the warranty is out the window and honestly, I'm pretty busy with school so it will take a while. I've already emailed some local shops and the local Subaru dealer (lol) for advice and quotes as well, really just looking for maybe some reassuring words or something I may not have considered from the Subaru thread goons.
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Aug 8, 2020 03:27
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Make sure the warranty avenue is a hard no first. It sounds like you know what your doing though. Get an extra set of hands to help and you can have the engine out in 4 hours. You're going to have to crack the block open to see if it's worth rebuilding, but in my experience it is faster and possibly even cheaper to just find a replacement engine. A lot of places may even take your core at a discount to the used engine you receive. In any case make sure you set up as many dominoes for every possibility so you aren't waiting. That's the real time killer. Call an auto machine shop to line up time for your crankshaft if you want to repair. Find a place with replacement crankshafts/rods if you want to rebuild. Find an engine yard with your engine in stock if you want to replace. Do all 3 assuming only one plan pans out. Go down whichever path is the best combination of cost and time and commit. Gather sealents, gaskets and fluids because you'll need them regardless of which route you take. You might as well replace things like the water pump, timing belt, idler/tension pulleys, spark plugs, etc. Don't forget a couple of oil filters and have places to drain fluids into. Watch a video of someone doing the jobs and take notes of which tools you may still need and what order to pull/replace things in, you can save time if you know which tasks can be done simultaneously with a helper. Assume anything with plastic connections will break and make sure you know where to order from. Maybe even order some stuff in advance like bumper/panel clips because those suuuuck. You may want to upgrade hose clamps while you're in there or replace some rusty bolts. Have lots of penetrant and an oxy torch on hand (propane alone does not get hot enough) to deal with stuck bolts. Clean parts as you go. If you have a fluid leak, it will be easier to spot where it's coming from on a clean engine. um excuse me fucked around with this message at 04:09 on Aug 8, 2020 |
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Aug 8, 2020 03:59
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so as part of my "goal" of bringing my 98 outback into the 21st century, I can't help but notice that my lights are dim as hell compared to modern projector/LED style headlights. It's frankly pathetic. On top of that I do a lot of driving at night on poorly lit back roads so any extra light is appreciated (gently caress deer). I've tried those "headlight restorer" kits but even after polishing my lenses twice they're back to being foggy as hell after a year. so, what are my options for upgrading the headlights/improving the appearance without blinding the gently caress out of other drivers? I don't want to just get a set of driving lights because having to constantly turn them on/off whenever I see an oncoming car gets old really fast. are there any stock-ish projector housings that I can drop in to the existing mounts/wiring that aren't complete garbage that will set my car on fire?
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Aug 8, 2020 05:19
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hot cocoa on the couch posted:So I bought another Subaru 2 months ago, ostensibly for my brother to use and for which he'd be paying me back. It's an 09 Sport, bought it with 200k km on it. I own a 2004 rally prepped Impreza which I've torn down fairly extensively so I know them well enough. When we checked out the car, it had oil residue under the passenger side head, I couldn't tell if it was the head gasket or the valve cover that was leaking, and when probed the mechanic told me the PCV valve had been replaced by the Subaru dealership who sold him it, but was never cleaned so still had the oil residue. I talked him into a $3000 powertrain warranty as part of the sale, and went on my way. 15W50 and a can of that lead engine restore stuff, mostly because I want to know if it creating a protective new layer on the bearings is true or not
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Aug 8, 2020 17:53
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I've been kind of looking at cheap kayak/bike haulers as well as something that would handle actual snowy days in the mountains a little better than my M3. I'm in Colorado so there are a billion Subaru's here and some of them are honestly a hell of a lot cheaper than I thought they'd be and a ton of them are also manuals, which is also a plus for me. Is there anything that is likely to be found in the sub $5000 range that should just flat out be avoided?
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Aug 9, 2020 02:59
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I drove an EJ25 with a light “knock” like that if the engine ever got lugged even the tiniest bit for 100k miles and it ended up burning an exhaust valve on #3 randomly before the bearing monster could get to it. You never know how bad it really is without opening it up and looking. Just keep driving it, religiously check the oil level (which anyone who owns a 10+ year old Subaru should be doing anyways), and keep an ear out for any changes in the noise. These engines just make all kinds of noises, you get used to it. Each one has its own specific set of noises and as long as it keeps making the same ones it’s probably fine. It’s when the noises start changing that you should worry.
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Aug 9, 2020 03:53
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So I test drove a new Legacy today, and it was kind of amazing? In addition to general niceness I was particularly impressed with how the EyeSense auto lane-centering was working. Shame they don't put it in Imprezas but such is marketing I suppose. So peeps with recentish Subarus, confirm/deny it's usefulness? For things like the 2 hour drive to the mountains I do every couple weekends, it seems amazing. Any reason I shouldn't consider buying a 2019 off-lease?
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Aug 9, 2020 04:16
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Yes, it's like a lava lamp.
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PittTheElder posted:So I test drove a new Legacy today, and it was kind of amazing? In addition to general niceness I was particularly impressed with how the EyeSense auto lane-centering was working. Shame they don't put it in Imprezas but such is marketing I suppose. So peeps with recentish Subarus, confirm/deny it's usefulness? For things like the 2 hour drive to the mountains I do every couple weekends, it seems amazing. Any reason I shouldn't consider buying a 2019 off-lease? There’s no manual transmission version? Off topic, but I had a fun time this morning when on the highway doing 70 in a narrow tunnel I suddenly lose power steering and the battery light comes on. Zero warning and zero bad noises so I kept driving the one more mile to my destination. When I get there I open the hood to find the bolt that holds the alternator to the big screw tension adjuster has somehow backed itself off and the alternator is resting on the engine block with the belt dangling limp from the pulley. This fucker:  No idea how it could have happened but it hasn’t been touched in a year. Well at least the all the bits are there and no permanent damage, right? Well, almost. While hanging on to the last thread in the alternator casing ear it stripped the first few threads on its way out. When I try to tighten the bolt through the adjuster block it catches and starts to thread but then just pops out every time. It will thread if I put the bolt in without the block so it can engage the deeper threads that are still good. So I’m my infinite brilliance I got another bolt of the same size/thread/pitch but about 15mm longer. It actually worked!  It sticks out of the back of the ear a bit but there’s nothing back there but empty space so it’s fine, right?  Also put a new belt on it because I don’t remember how old the the one that was on it is and sometimes it squeals a bit on cold mornings until the it warms up. https://i.imgur.com/c43n8uI.mp4 Hugh G. Rectum fucked around with this message at 12:28 on Aug 14, 2020 |
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Aug 9, 2020 05:19
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I busted the long adjustment bolt on my '93 Legacy, so I ended up getting the belt tension by levering on the alternator like we had to back in the day and then locking it down til I could get a new adjustment bolt from a hardware shop. (The bolt I got was significantly shorter but not THAT short, because I don't understand why there's so, so much thread on the adjustment. It's just plain not necessary.) But that? That's weird.
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Aug 9, 2020 05:26
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rickiep00h posted:I busted the long adjustment bolt on my '93 Legacy, so I ended up getting the belt tension by levering on the alternator like we had to back in the day and then locking it down til I could get a new adjustment bolt from a hardware shop. (The bolt I got was significantly shorter but not THAT short, because I don't understand why there's so, so much thread on the adjustment. It's just plain not necessary.) the last time I touched any of it was to replace the alternator after the bearings in the old one started to scream for mercy. it got bad, by the time I replaced it the entire case was covered with a thick layer of bearing dust. that's why that alternator is literally the only clean thing in the entire engine bay
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Aug 9, 2020 06:26
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Hugh G. Rectum posted:There’s no manual transmission version? Should I be wary of the CVT? After 10 years of driving stick I'm kinda over it.
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Aug 9, 2020 06:38
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Hugh G. Rectum posted:There’s no manual transmission version? At least in the US Subaru doesn’t offer Eyesight with MT.
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Aug 9, 2020 07:42
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PittTheElder posted:Should I be wary of the CVT? After 10 years of driving stick I'm kinda over it. Lets just say I wouldnt own one without a current warranty
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Aug 9, 2020 09:27
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My wife has a '13 Crosstrek with the CVT and 183k miles and.... It's ok? I'll probably do a partial fluid change at 200k, but it "shifts" perfectly fine still. We bought it at 150K and other than new struts and a wheel bearing when we bought it, it's only gotten oil changes every 5k. Needs an AC compressor, but since it's been mostly sitting since corona started, it's been low on the list to fix. I certainly don't want to pay to fix it if it breaks, and new/reman CVTs are $buckets, but I certainly would rather drive the Crosstrek than the '09 Sebring I'm currently borrowing while I fix the blown motor in my LGT. I'd much rather drive a manual, but I think the Subaru CVTs are certainly good enough for a daily driver. I'm a little sore about the CVT-only new LGT/OBXT, but my next daily was going to be an auto anyway, so we could switch cars when needed. I'll have to test drive one eventually and see if I'd like one for a daily.
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Aug 9, 2020 20:20
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I guess my main question about the CVT is if it acts properly. What I mean is will it do things like give you proper engine braking when in low “gear”? If you hit the throttle, does it respond quickly or do the thing like most normal automatics where it takes forever to decide to shift down? On the highway I can tell fairly accurately how fast I’m going just by throttle position because when you let off it slows down, automatics just coast and I constantly find myself having to watch the speedo. Things like that are the reason I prefer stick, automatics are usually programmed to maximize EPA numbers instead of what you would actually like them to do. The only automatic I’ve used that was programmed properly is in an SLK32 AMG. It aggressively locks up the torque converter even in 2nd or 3rd gear, it will downshift and lock while you’re slowing down giving you manual-like engine braking, it will hold gears in corners as long as it possibly can, and you can force it to downshift so if you’re going for a pass or something you aren’t stuck trying to predict when it will actually kick down. If all slushboxes were programmed like AMG ones I really wouldn’t mind them so much. It’s really a software issue.
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Aug 9, 2020 20:46
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Hugh G. Rectum posted:I guess my main question about the CVT is if it acts properly. What I mean is will it do things like give you proper engine braking when in low “gear”? If you hit the throttle, does it respond quickly or do the thing like most normal automatics where it takes forever to decide to shift down? On the highway I can tell fairly accurately how fast I’m going just by throttle position because when you let off it slows down, automatics just coast and I constantly find myself having to watch the speedo. The answer is that it does everything worse. Even the "best" one is a laggy piece of poo poo that only just becomes okayish in S# mode. You need to be in manual mode and use the paddles - in which you lose all ACC modes.
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Aug 9, 2020 22:37
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:The answer is that it does everything worse. Even the "best" one is a laggy piece of poo poo that only just becomes okayish in S# mode. You need to be in manual mode and use the paddles - in which you lose all ACC modes. Yeah, I absolutely agree. Even with the best programming an automatic is fundamentally only reactive without some sort of insanely complex computer vision system. With a manual you’re predictive, you know what gear you want to be in long before you actually shift. Even the fastest auto will never have a negative reaction time. Personally I also find myself being way lazier about all aspects of my driving when driving AT. With a stick I’m always looking way ahead on the road so I can be ready if anything comes up, and I’m just generally more engaged with the whole process of driving. For that reason alone I don’t think I’ll ever buy an AT car for my main vehicle unless I end up paralyzed or something.
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Aug 9, 2020 23:57
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Hugh G. Rectum posted:I guess my main question about the CVT is if it acts properly. What I mean is will it do things like give you proper engine braking when in low “gear”? If you hit the throttle, does it respond quickly or do the thing like most normal automatics where it takes forever to decide to shift down? On the highway I can tell fairly accurately how fast I’m going just by throttle position because when you let off it slows down, automatics just coast and I constantly find myself having to watch the speedo. In both the paddles were mostly a gimmick. You’re locked to only a couple gears at a time (out of seven iirc), so on the Impreza you’re not really going to be able to really drop enough at once to get in the right rev range and ratio to get a bunch of power. On highways and driving “normal” the transmission is fine though. Not droney, revs are low (even less so in the Legacy). Pulling away from stops is uneventful but not quick.
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Aug 10, 2020 00:53
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i own every Bionicle posted:Mine leaked everywhere when the PCV system wasn’t plumbed correctly and the crank case was pressurized. It could be that or it could have a hurt piston (ring lands). Put your hand over the oil cap when it’s running, you should feel suction. Of course compression/leakdown test would be recommended for any used turbo Subaru. I assume you mean w/ the oil cap off? There is a bit of suction when putting my hand over w/ the cap off, but before putting the hand over it almost feels like air is blowing out of the filler. It's hard to tell. Does that sound right? I'll go ahead with a compression and leakdown. Looks it's been 70k since I last had that done.
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Aug 10, 2020 02:56
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:The answer is that it does everything worse. Even the "best" one is a laggy piece of poo poo that only just becomes okayish in S# mode. You need to be in manual mode and use the paddles - in which you lose all ACC modes. Even in "manual", my CVT Subaru won't engine brake for more than a few seconds while in "first," and it drives me loving crazy. It will actually start to coast because, yeah, it's all about fuel economy. As an aside, the low-speed throttle is also terrible, which I get isn't an issue for most people, but my garage door is really tight and uphill, and I am exiting at an angle directly onto a street (cannot see oncoming traffic until I'm halfway out), so I start out basically every trying attempting to crawl along at 1-2mph and always being frustrated. DrChu posted:In both the paddles were mostly a gimmick. You’re locked to only a couple gears at a time (out of seven iirc), so on the Impreza you’re not really going to be able to really drop enough at once to get in the right rev range and ratio to get a bunch of power.
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Aug 10, 2020 04:28
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Toe Rag posted:Even in "manual", my CVT Subaru won't engine brake for more than a few seconds while in "first," and it drives me loving crazy. It will actually start to coast because, yeah, it's all about fuel economy. As an aside, the low-speed throttle is also terrible, which I get isn't an issue for most people, but my garage door is really tight and uphill, and I am exiting at an angle directly onto a street (cannot see oncoming traffic until I'm halfway out), so I start out basically every trying attempting to crawl along at 1-2mph and always being frustrated. That sounds incredibly frustrating. Honestly, since there's so much done with aftermarket and modding OEM ECUs, has anyone ever tried modifying the stock TCU or making a 3rd party transmission controller at all? There's a shitload of stuff one could do to make the slushboxes, or even the CVT, behave so much better. Right now they're all programmed solely to maximize EPA numbers at the expense of literally everything else. How hard could it be, right? right? guys? where's everyone going?
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Aug 10, 2020 06:10
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Transmission tuning is a huge thing in the diesel world--automatics by and large. Why it doesn't really have any presence in the gasoline world for automatics, I have no idea either.
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Aug 10, 2020 06:22
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Toe Rag posted:I don't know what you mean by this. I mean that's essentially true of every gear box. I guess you could shift a manual into 1st at 60mph, but I'm pretty sure you'll wreck the engine, lock up your drive train, and have a big slide and/or crash. I never noticed this as an issue, but I mostly just drive in D.
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Aug 10, 2020 18:36
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Synchros, to an extent, block gears that are out of rev range. If you're slamming the stick around hard enough to force the dogs to engage, you never knew how to drive stick to begin with. So for a CVT to have this functionality wouldn't be very manual-like anyways
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Aug 10, 2020 19:01
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