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The park tool video I saw looked like they were using the soapy water more as a lubricant, but I wasn't really paying attention because my stuff hasn't arrived yet so I could definitely be wrong.
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Aug 7, 2020 02:26
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Yeah it's also commonly used for that too. My rim/tire combination never seems to need it.
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Aug 7, 2020 04:12
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Hmm, I'll keep the tube thing in mind the next time I do a tubeless conversion. Thanks for the tip!
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Aug 7, 2020 15:30
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I guess tubeless is that good that it's worth carrying all the extra kit? Add for tubeless - CO2 inflator in case you need to re-seat the bead - tire plugs - spare valve stem - spare valve core - spare sealant Standard kit - mini pump - still need for tubeless for small pressure modifications - tire boot - still need for tubeless for large holes - spare tube - still need for tubeless just in case you have a gigantic hole - tube patches - still need for tubeless in case your spare tube gets a puncture
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Aug 7, 2020 16:16
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FogHelmut posted:I guess tubeless is that good that it's worth carrying all the extra kit? If it is a multi day ride I'll include a spare valve core. If it is a multi week ride I'll carry some extra sealant.
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Aug 7, 2020 16:39
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I usually have a co2 but it's more for being able to quickly fill/top off a tire that punctured and sealed or needed a plug. In the last few weeks I've used 2 plugs and had one puncture that sealed after I waited a minute with the hole facing down. I don't bring any extra sealant with me. If you've lost that much and it's not sealed you probably need to put in a tube. You don't really specifically need co2 or a plug or any of that, and if you get a puncture that won't seal you just put in a tube. I didn't carry a plug kit for years until I saw a friend use one successfully. Right now I have a blackburn plugger but I think I'm going to pick up a stans dart. This one I thought was going to need a tube after it was leaking still with a plug, but in the time it took me to get the wheel off and my tube and stuff out it had sealed so I kept riding. Tire was already pretty toast so I replaced it though 
jamal fucked around with this message at 16:43 on Aug 7, 2020 |
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Aug 7, 2020 16:40
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FogHelmut posted:I guess tubeless is that good that it's worth carrying all the extra kit? - spare valve core(s) - valve core remover - spare valve stem - mini pump - 1 or 2 tubes - tube patch kit - dollar bill for tire boot (multi purpose, can also buy things) Full disclosure I use the ridiculously bougie tubolito tubes as spares. They're expensive af but are super light, pack down way smaller than normal tubes, and I've been able to use them in emergencies then pull them out and re-roll them for future use once I get home.
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Aug 7, 2020 16:57
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spf3million posted:
Those look pretty interesting, but a lot of the reviews I'm reading seem to indicate they have a lot of quality control issues.
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Aug 7, 2020 18:14
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CO2 is more of a convenience & speed thing than anything about the tire bead. I carried it when I used tubes too. As such, I'm not carrying anything different with tubeless than I did prior to switching. Sealant is the main additional cost but I buy fewer tubes now so it's a wash.
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Aug 7, 2020 22:55
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Does anyone else get great entertainment out of the RJ the Bike Guy videos on YouTube? Like, I understand that the Park Tool videos are gonna show me the right way to do things, be but sometimes I need the right now way to do things, and RJ often supplies them. Plus you get some bonus "let's see what happens" stuff like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KdXz6F0Gaas *Stabs tube with knife*
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Aug 8, 2020 00:17
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evil_bunnY posted:This is legit brilliant I kept meaning to take a picture of it.  Still running the same tube too, 200+ miles strong
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Aug 8, 2020 00:23
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FogHelmut posted:I guess tubeless is that good that it's worth carrying all the extra kit? I don't carry CO2 stuff, extra sealant, or patches. I'll consider that if I'm going on a multi-day ride though. My tire boot is usually just a $1 bill. If I double flat on road tubeless, I just call family to come and pick me up.
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Aug 8, 2020 01:14
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Oldsrocket_27 posted:Does anyone else get great entertainment out of the RJ the Bike Guy videos on YouTube? Like, I understand that the Park Tool videos are gonna show me the right way to do things, be but sometimes I need the right now way to do things, and RJ often supplies them. Plus you get some bonus "let's see what happens" stuff like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KdXz6F0Gaas *Stabs tube with knife*
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Aug 8, 2020 04:23
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In the previous thread someone was having trouble with a Rad Power Bike - iirc - did that get resolved?
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Aug 8, 2020 04:30
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FogHelmut posted:I guess tubeless is that good that it's worth carrying all the extra kit? Unless your tire+rim combo sucks, you won't need to reseat a bead. And even if you did, you can always put a tube in there. Why would I need a spare valve stem, valve core or sealant? I've never broken a valve stem or core midride. If I did, I'd just insert a tube. Why would I need extra sealant? If the puncture is spewing sealant everywhere and you keep riding, you're a goof. Stop, see if it seals by pointing the puncture down and putting your finger over the leak. If not, insert a plug. If the plugs fail, insert a tube. My kit is literally a minipump, dynaplugs and a spare tube. I use tires that I can mount/unmount by hand, so I don't even bring levers. My tire boot is a dollar bill. I don't bring patches on the majority of rides. If my ride goes that lovely, I'll call for someone to pick me up. Most of this is complerely unnecessary unless this is for touring / long-distance.
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Aug 8, 2020 06:09
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rngd in the womb posted:
It's almost surely the tire. Add more sealant and ride it more so the casing becomes less porous. With 38s, I'd use at least 60mL of sealant in each tire.
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Aug 8, 2020 06:13
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I'm now a month and change (I think) in on my gravelking SKs and they've actually been the best tubeless tire as far as setup and holding air that I've ever had (aside from some big ole mountain bike tires). I think I've topped them up once as preventative thing, didn't actually notice them losing any air. I'm regretting all that time and sealant I wasted loving around with all my 650b and 700 WTB tires over the last couple of years.
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Aug 8, 2020 15:14
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Ugh I need to check sealant level in all my bikes. I think I need to add
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Aug 8, 2020 15:17
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WTB don't hold air? I was really looking at the Resolute. The Schwalbe G-One All-round that I have are terrible at sand and loose dirt. My front slides out on corners and rear spins on steep climbs. How is Gravelking SK in those conditions?
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Aug 8, 2020 15:45
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SKs are real bad at washing out. Give the GK EXT a look, it’s the same casing with a more aggressive tread.
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Aug 8, 2020 16:41
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e.pilot posted:SKs are real bad at washing out. Give the GK EXT a look, it’s the same casing with a more aggressive tread. Dang only goes to 38mm though. Do they run big? The ones I have now are 40mm and I have about 10mm clearance on all sides. Trying to go large.
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Aug 8, 2020 17:24
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The 38 EXTs say 38 on the label but the molded numbers on the casing say 40, they do seem a bit big.
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Aug 8, 2020 17:43
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Yeah, the WTB tires I've had (except the 27.5x3 rangers) have been nice but always leaked air, and have taken a long time to get mostly sealed up. I just thought that was how tubeless was, with the exception of big ole chonky mountainbike tires. I was absolutely delighted with these, and while they're not as good on singletrack as my WTB Senderos they're better on dirt than the byways, an still roll acceptably on pavement, so I'm using them more as a jack of all trades (master of none) solution on my journeyman. I haven't had any washouts yet, but I could see it.
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Aug 8, 2020 18:17
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I picked up another wheel set real cheap on Facebook marketplace, so I'm trying to do an off-road set and an on-road set. I'm really only doing one or the other at this point, so I want to go full in each direction.
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Aug 8, 2020 19:01
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FogHelmut posted:WTB don't hold air? I was really looking at the Resolute. I have wtb resolute 650b on Stan's crest rims. Holds air just fine between rides, better than my road bike.
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Aug 8, 2020 19:17
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Transferring from the Bike Megathread, short version: asked for 28x1.75 tires for my Giant TranSend DX, was sold 28x2 with the assurance that it wasn’t much of a difference and they’d work fine. Got them put on and the rear wheel is occasionally rubbing on the non-drive side even after bringing it back to the shop and then seating it properly in the dropouts (which was after I told them I did not in fact know how properly recenter my wheel, which is what I was initially told to do after one of the owners of the shop looked it over up front). Was recommended I post pics in this thread to determine if there’s a workable solution with these tires or if I need to eat buying a second properly sized set (the first shop I went to had signs all over that they don’t offer refunds on bikes, tubes or tires under any circumstances). Honestly feeling really embarrassed about the whole thing because normally I’d just bring my bike into a shop and pay to have them do it, but figured even though I’m mechanically disinclined I could figure out replacing a tire. First two pics are the side where it rubs occasionally (shop told me as I was leaving that at most I’d hear a little rubbing from the little pieces of rubber that stick out on new tires, but that would go away) and the other pic is just the opposite side to demonstrate how much more clearance there is.   
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Aug 9, 2020 07:11
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Naw dude, those tires ain't safe. Might sound crazy but running too-wide tires can actually destroy the bike frame by rubbing through it.
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Aug 9, 2020 07:22
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Cool, glad I took their word for it. Also for my own education, because obviously I am deeply ignorant of bike maintenance and will take perceived experts at face value: the tubes they sold me were for 29s, telling me that it wouldn’t be a problem with my 28 tires. Was that also bad information?
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Aug 9, 2020 07:29
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29 and 28 are different terminology for the 700C rim size. Another is ISO 622. Inner tubes have ranges. If it says 29 x 1.5” -2”, it’ll work for when you size back down to 1.75”.
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Aug 9, 2020 07:55
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Is the wheel centered correctly? You show how close it is to the frame on the non-drive side but there is a lot more clearance on the drive side. Are you loosening the quick release (I assume it’s QR) with the wheel on the ground, then tightening the QR? I agree it’s pretty tight and it likely won’t make it fit but it definitely looks off center.
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Aug 9, 2020 12:57
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Yes, it’s definitely off center. It is a QR and I have been loosening/tightening as you describe. I honestly don’t know how to center the wheel better, and Google has just led to directions on how to true a wheel.
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Aug 9, 2020 14:24
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It does look like something isn't right but I've seen a few frames where the stays aren't the exact same angle and one side is a touch closer than the other. Could also be the wheel isn't dished properly, or the frame is bent a touch. That being said, even if you got that wheel perfectly centered between those stays that's too tight a fit. You need smaller tires. Get some 700x40s or so on it so you can throw the fenders back on with plenty of clearance.
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Aug 9, 2020 16:21
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Make sure you're putting some weight on the bike with your body when you loosen and tighten the QR to reseat it.
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Aug 9, 2020 16:27
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Could you post a pic of each side of the rear dropouts? If it's a long slotted dropout, maybe there's a positioning spring/screw on one side but missing on the other. e: before you clamp down on the QR lever, you should be able to push the axle forward a tiny bit on one side to get the wheel centered. That's assuming the wheel is dished properly and true. spf3million fucked around with this message at 16:36 on Aug 9, 2020 |
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Aug 9, 2020 16:32
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Hoping someone can help. I had the bolts on my seatpost shear off during my ride today, so my seat fell off in the middle of biking. Got a replacement seat post since nowhere had the hardware needed to just reattach my seat. It's the same diameter, 27.2, but I can't seem to tighten it enough to get it to stay in place (if I put my hand on it and push down, the bike seat just slides down to meet the frame). I have not applied bike grease yet because I did not know that was a thing. Is the grease really enough to hold this in place or is there something else fucky going on? Bike is a Liv hybrid, I'm using a pinhead lock on the bike post.
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Aug 9, 2020 17:02
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Are you talking about the bolts at the head of the seat or at the collar? It looks like the bolts in the head failed. I hope you have bought a 2 bolt post them. The second bit sounds like the post is slipping in the frames. Assuming the last seatpost was fine, I would guess there is a defect in the new seatpost, it is too narrow. This happens. It should be a free return. Have them stick the new one in calipers in multiple places (a seatpost can be narrow in just a few places). You should not have to overtighten the seat collar, it can damage things. Also don't ride with a slipping most it can damage the frame. Edit: try grease first, but if it slips, chuck it. Easy way to see if it slips, but a bit of electrial tape where the post meets the frame. If it bunches up, at all, you have a slipping post.
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Aug 9, 2020 17:15
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The bolts at the seat failed-- I definitely bought a seat post with two bolts this go round. Grease did not work-- the woman at the bike shop suggested that it might be because the pinhead locks are harder to tighten, but honestly I tried using a set of pliers for extra leverage and it did not do enough, so I am going to make this the bike shop's problem, I think. 
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Aug 9, 2020 18:55
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Lien posted:The bolts at the seat failed-- I definitely bought a seat post with two bolts this go round. Grease did not work-- the woman at the bike shop suggested that it might be because the pinhead locks are harder to tighten, but honestly I tried using a set of pliers for extra leverage and it did not do enough, so I am going to make this the bike shop's problem, I think. Do you still have your old post? Loosen the seatpost collar bolt, so that you can slide in your old post easily. Count the number of full turns it takes to get it tight enough that you can't push down the seat by hand. Back out the same number of turns. Swap in the new seat post. Tighten the same turns again. If the new one is super loose, it's undersized. Which is common enough with cheap carbon posts, but usually not aluminum. If this is the behavior you're seeing, you should def bring the old post to the shop to prove your point. You could also obviate with a caliper by measuring to see if the new post is actually 27.2. There are 27.0 and 26.8 posts, but it's likely they'd be marked.
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Aug 9, 2020 19:02
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EvilJoven posted:That being said, even if you got that wheel perfectly centered between those stays that's too tight a fit. You need smaller tires. Get some 700x40s or so on it so you can throw the fenders back on with plenty of clearance. Swapped out for 38s and it made a remarkable difference, new shop bought the too big tires off of me as well, so that was nice.
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Aug 9, 2020 19:26
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kimbo305 posted:Do you still have your old post? Loosen the seatpost collar bolt, so that you can slide in your old post easily. Also, I would suggest that the better way to check tightness is to try to twist rather than push down. I don't think you can really simulate the forces of sitting on a seat and riding it by pressing.
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Aug 9, 2020 20:45
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