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I've got a i7-5820K system with 16GB of RAM and a 256gb hard drive. I'm experiencing these hugely laggy periods where it takes a few seconds to switch Chrome/Edge tabs, or websites take a while to load. I opened task manager, and noticed that one of my hard drives (a WD Red 6tb drive) will be hitting ~100% usage at these slowdown times. Here's the thing though - nothing touches that drive. When I first bought it, the intent was to move my media onto it and then use it for my plex server, but I just haven't gotten around to changing plex yet - all the media is there but nothing else, and nothing is accessing it. So my plex library is still on my old drive (WD Cavier Green), and even while streaming a movie that drive barely registers any usage. Is there a common reason this might happen? CrystalDiskInfo reports it as in good health. It's odd but when I open and close Edge tabs, I can reliably see it spike to 100% - the system bogs down but CPU usage doesn't spike higher than 15%. For some context, I've essentially filled the main hard drive (had a couple low space warnings today... 256gb nvme), and my 16gb RAM is constantly around 80% usage. So I'm ordering a 512gb HD and hoping I can find some RAM that will work with my motherboard - but these random disk spinups really seem to be problematic. Side question - what's the easiest way to port a full windows install from one drive to another? Much as I'd love to rebuild from a fresh install this is my main working machine and I just can't have the downtime these days. Guitarchitect fucked around with this message at 05:35 on Aug 29, 2020 |
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Aug 29, 2020 05:30
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Guitarchitect posted:I've got a i7-5820K system with 16GB of RAM and a 256gb hard drive. I'm experiencing these hugely laggy periods where it takes a few seconds to switch Chrome/Edge tabs, or websites take a while to load. Use Macrium Refect it’s quick easy and free. https://www.macrium.com/reflectfree
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Aug 29, 2020 05:52
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Gyshall posted:Quieter would be better, but I'll take a look at those.
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Aug 29, 2020 10:25
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Spaseman posted:Is there anything I should be concerned about when shopping for a roughly $120-$180 dollar x570 AMD mobo? Any brands/BIOS with any build issues at that level I should watch out for? The TUF Gaming X570-Plus is basically the king of that price bracket based on reviews I have seen, for $165. If you can edge up to $220 the X570 Tomahawk WiFi basically has every goddamn thing you could want on a mobo. If you want to go cheaper than the X570 TUF you're better off IMO looking at the nicer B550 mATX boards like the MSI Bazooka for $130.
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Aug 29, 2020 12:39
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Any recommendations for cleaning the inside of my PC? I clean it frequently with cans of compressed air but almost always there's still a thin layer of dust left on stuff. No money to buy one of those mechanical air blowers right now, although I do plan to in the future. Are there any brushes or anything else I can use? I've been trying to read up on it but there seems to be some confusion about what kind of brush is actually safe to use.
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Aug 29, 2020 22:04
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I think if you're that into having Jo dust a good filtered case and positive pressure fan setup probably should come before a mechanical blower. I just vacuum mine now and then with a small brush attachment, no carpet or pets or smokers or anything so I don't get a lot of dust.
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Aug 30, 2020 00:21
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Vacuuming and brushing will create some static electricity; maybe it's an over-blown danger, but I never vacuum or brush a PCB for that reason. Some hardware stores sell isopropyl alcohol specifically made for cleaning electronics, and that might be a safer product to use.
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Aug 30, 2020 01:04
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I have an SSD that I installed Windows 10 on for a secondary build that I'm not so sure I'm going to go through with anymore. If I wanted to repurpose it to be just another drive that I'm put files and games in, what would be the correct procedure for hooking it up to my current machine (so that I can then formatt/erase the drive) without causing trouble for myself? is it just as simple as making sure I go into the BIOS on the first power-on after connecting it and making sure the BIOS is looking at my original drive for the boot record?
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Aug 30, 2020 03:19
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Yeah, basically. If you're really worried about booting into the wrong one, set a recognizable wallpaper on the good one. Then just wipe out the partitions on the other one and format as usual.
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Aug 30, 2020 11:40
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gradenko_2000 posted:I have an SSD that I installed Windows 10 on for a secondary build that I'm not so sure I'm going to go through with anymore. One option is to get one of those $15 USB ---> SATA adapters (assuming the SSD is SATA?), plug it in to the other computer as a removable drive and nuke it that way before permanently installing it.
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Aug 30, 2020 14:15
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Anyone have experience with a PC hooked up to a TV over HDMI and intermittent loss of connection (black screen and loss of audio as well)? Stuck an old gaming PC in the living room, hooked up to a (2017? 2018?) TCL C-series (4k, 60hz). Graphics card on the PC is an Nvidia 1060, computer is running latest version of Windows 10 with up-to-date drivers/updates/etc. I have the resolution set to 1920x1080 and 60hz refresh rate. It's generally fine and stable when on the desktop or web browsing, etc, but when playing games it's been intermittently losing signal - screen goes completely black and audio cuts out. Computer remains responsive, and on the TV, if you go back to the main menu and re-select the HDMI input again, it will immediately start working again. I have tried using a different HDMI cable and a different HDMI port, and the issue persists. It seems very intermittent and random, it used to be infrequent but last night it was happening every few seconds, completely unusable. It's not just black flickering either, it lasts at least 20-30 seconds (I have seen it regain connection after waiting long enough once, generally I've just changed the input to get it connected again). I'm inexperienced with using TVs as monitors, are there some compatibility settings somewhere I want to adjust, either on the TV (I did peek at the TV settings last night, I enabled 'game mode' for the first time, the issue persisted before and after) or the PC? Maybe some settings in Windows or the Nvidia drivers... I've kept the resolution set consistently to 1920x1080 and 60Hz, maybe a different color depth or something. I tried in-game changing v-sync on/off and back and forth from borderless window to fullscreen, no dice. I've tried googling this issue and mostly found a bunch of irrelevant or old solutions.
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Aug 30, 2020 16:46
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Vir posted:Vacuuming and brushing will create some static electricity; maybe it's an over-blown danger, but I never vacuum or brush a PCB for that reason. Some hardware stores sell isopropyl alcohol specifically made for cleaning electronics, and that might be a safer product to use. Is it really a danger if you use a canister vac?
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Aug 30, 2020 17:51
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When you use compressed air, you use it in short bursts. So while the dust particles moving across the surface of the PC might cause some slight electrical action, I think a much bigger issue is a buildup of static electricity on the plastic brush and vacuum hose of a vacuum cleaner. Most of the compressed air cannisters sold are actually butane gas, which comes out wet. I would personally avoid vacuuming and brushing any electronic components. I know fine dust can stick on them, but I'd rather use a non-conductive wet wipe if it needs to be cleaned - preferably isopropyl alcohol sold for the purpose. I'm not too worried about compressed butane cannisters. I have no experience with using air from a compressor on electronics, but I'd probably make sure to do that in a humid environment if I was going to do it. Vir fucked around with this message at 18:18 on Aug 30, 2020 |
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Aug 30, 2020 18:16
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Put the computer outside without pans and wait, basically. For smaller collections of dust, you can buy a cheap bellow to squeeze.
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Aug 30, 2020 18:25
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Flat surfaces like the back of the graphics card I sometimes wipe down carefully with ethanol, but other than that, even a compressor will leave a thin layer of dust.
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Aug 30, 2020 18:37
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What about a proper air compressor? I've got to replace my hard drive and I will probably need to remove my fan + heat sink to do it, so i thought it might be a good time to blast all the crap out of it before I start disassembling it
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Aug 30, 2020 20:15
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Guitarchitect posted:What about a proper air compressor? I've got to replace my hard drive and I will probably need to remove my fan + heat sink to do it, so i thought it might be a good time to blast all the crap out of it before I start disassembling it Proper air compressors (if you mean the ones used in machine shops etc) generally have trace oil in the air line so that pneumatically driven tools are properly lubricated and you'll be spraying a little bit of oil all over your poo poo. If you just have some home compressor it's probably fine.
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Aug 30, 2020 20:18
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If your compressor doesn't have a moisture filter, you might end up spraying small amounts of water onto your stuff, so be careful of that.
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Aug 30, 2020 22:23
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Getting to the point where I might need to replace an under powered PSU. From what I've gathered (google research, etc.) more wattage is a-OK but less is, obviously, not. Apart from getting a new PSU to physically fit into my case are there any other pitfalls a newbie like myself should be aware of? Not something I'm even seriously considering yet, but I might have to if the few tweaks I made over the last few days don't pan out. edit: (I skimmed Hardware/Software and Troubleshooting for PSU questions and came up empty. Happy to gently caress off if there is a better place to ask) fennesz fucked around with this message at 00:58 on Aug 31, 2020 |
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Aug 31, 2020 00:55
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fennesz posted:Getting to the point where I might need to replace an under powered PSU. You can use online calculators to find how much wattage you need for your system (given what components are installed). I wouldn't worry about it too much but I think the PSUs operate most efficiently when they're at about 80% of total load. What you actually need to care about is modularity (get one with modular cables so you can not use the ones you don't need), warranty (EVGA has many with 10 year warranties at good prices), and that's about it. If you have an unusual case (mini ITX or something) you might need to make sure you don't need a specifically smaller size PSU but if you have a 'normal' case it's basically standard sizing. If you're over-PSU'd you won't notice anything. If you're under-PSU'd your PC will just turn itself off or bluescreen when you're using it. If you're out of warranty and your PSU dies and kills every other component in your PC while it does, you don't get anything from the PSU maker.
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Aug 31, 2020 01:03
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In addition to this, never use cables from one modular psu with another, different modular psu. They are not compatible.
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Aug 31, 2020 01:06
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More air compressor talk: moisture/condensation is a commonly acknowledged risk, but I've never actually heard of someone killing a PC with a home air compressor from it. Getting electronics/PCBs wet isn't necessarily a death sentence as long as it is dried quickly, and one way to dry something very quickly is to blast all the water off of it with compressed air. The risk should be very low, but it might not be a bad idea to completely drain/cycle the compressor prior to using it for dusting. However, I have heard of someone opening up a 200 PSI industrial air compressor nozzle on a PCB and having it actually rip components off the board. So do keep the pressure regulator set in moderation.
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Aug 31, 2020 01:16
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VelociBacon posted:You can use online calculators to find how much wattage you need for your system (given what components are installed). I wouldn't worry about it too much but I think the PSUs operate most efficiently when they're at about 80% of total load. What you actually need to care about is modularity (get one with modular cables so you can not use the ones you don't need), warranty (EVGA has many with 10 year warranties at good prices), and that's about it. If you have an unusual case (mini ITX or something) you might need to make sure you don't need a specifically smaller size PSU but if you have a 'normal' case it's basically standard sizing. tuyop posted:In addition to this, never use cables from one modular psu with another, different modular psu. They are not compatible. This is more or less what I figured. I'm not particularly worried about size as my case is large. Though I absolutely would not have even considered cables not compatible between two modular PSU's. Thanks for that tuyop, probably saved me a major headache there. And I used a few different PSU wattage calculators and I should be sitting just under 500W. I just didn't want to purchase a 800+W PSU in two months and only then realize that I hosed myself. 
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Aug 31, 2020 01:17
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I played Microsoft Flight Simulator and according to the Corsair utility I am only using 160W max while simultaneously backing up from a spinning HDD. I only have a 1060 though.
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Aug 31, 2020 01:31
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I would like to install my Blue Yeti onto a tripod or a mic arm/stand of some sort. However, I already own tripods, so am I correct in thinking that the only thing I need to install it is a 3'8" to a 5'8" adapter? I am trying to look on YouTube but most of them recommend buying an expensive arm like a Rode PSA, but they also tend to set it up for desk use. I see some mic stands on sale but ones I found have that normal small thin mic clip. The objective is to stand and talk into the microphone, like performing an act on stage but from home. I'm not quite sure what my options are. Cheapest option that I have identified is "long cable for Blue Yeti and just hold it like a mic" but the extra large shape makes it heavy and slightly awkward.
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Aug 31, 2020 02:25
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fennesz posted:I'm not particularly worried about size as my case is large.
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Aug 31, 2020 08:40
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VelociBacon posted:You can use online calculators to find how much wattage you need for your system (given what components are installed). I wouldn't worry about it too much but I think the PSUs operate most efficiently when they're at about 80% of total load. Most graphs by PSU manufacturers show them to be most efficient at 50% load. fennesz posted:Getting to the point where I might need to replace an under powered PSU. Other things to consider that weren't already mentioned: Passive/half-passive (fan is off while the system isn't under heavy load), overall efficiency (less power consumed, less heat generated) especially at lower loads (where the system will operate most of the time). Steer clear of those extremely cheap no-name PSUs, better to get a brand name.
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Aug 31, 2020 09:04
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What are my options if I want an indoor security camera. It must not require any dumb poo poo like setting up an account with the company or cloud services or anything like that. I want to run it in my apartment, off a vm on my server, recording to my nas.
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Aug 31, 2020 19:47
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Is different ram latency a concern across channels or only in the same channel? IE Channel A will have 2x 16GB ddr4 2666 CL19 while Channel B will have 2x 4GB ddr4 2666 CL16. Should all four be the same latency or does it only matter as long as the channel is running the same latency?
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Aug 31, 2020 22:03
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phosdex posted:What are my options if I want an indoor security camera. It must not require any dumb poo poo like setting up an account with the company or cloud services or anything like that. I want to run it in my apartment, off a vm on my server, recording to my nas. You'll want an IP camera that has ONVIF/RTSP support. Most consumer focused cams will do all the cloud poo poo because it's the simplest and easiest way to watch video remotely so you'll either need to look at more IP Cam focused hardware like Hikvision and Dahua or cheaper ones like Reolink and Amcrest, or find some custom firmware for consumer cams like Wyze offers. I like the Wyze cams because they're cheap and decent, and they just put out a custom RTSP firmware this month to allow local access. https://support.wyzecam.com/hc/en-us/articles/360026245231-Wyze-Cam-RTSP
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Aug 31, 2020 22:41
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phosdex posted:What are my options if I want an indoor security camera. It must not require any dumb poo poo like setting up an account with the company or cloud services or anything like that. I want to run it in my apartment, off a vm on my server, recording to my nas. FCKGW's post is probably what you should do but you can also do the comedy option of a raspberry pi + camera running motioneyeos if you really want to control your own stuff. You can run iSpy (free but a little clunky) or BlueIris (paid and pretty nice) on a windows vm to get the stream from any camera and they both can provide a webserver for LAN access if you want to view them on devices (which you could optionally port forward but you know, probably not securely). I've got a couple of foscams and a wyze cam (running the dahuahacks firmware) streaming to ispy64 here keeping an eye on mouse traps so I don't have to go check them in the basement every day.
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Aug 31, 2020 22:49
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FCKGW posted:You'll want an IP camera that has ONVIF/RTSP support. Most consumer focused cams will do all the cloud poo poo because it's the simplest and easiest way to watch video remotely so you'll either need to look at more IP Cam focused hardware like Hikvision and Dahua or cheaper ones like Reolink and Amcrest, or find some custom firmware for consumer cams like Wyze offers. Rexxed posted:FCKGW's post is probably what you should do but you can also do the comedy option of a raspberry pi + camera running motioneyeos if you really want to control your own stuff. You can run iSpy (free but a little clunky) or BlueIris (paid and pretty nice) on a windows vm to get the stream from any camera and they both can provide a webserver for LAN access if you want to view them on devices (which you could optionally port forward but you know, probably not securely). I've got a couple of foscams and a wyze cam (running the dahuahacks firmware) streaming to ispy64 here keeping an eye on mouse traps so I don't have to go check them in the basement every day. Thanks. Think I'll start with a Wyze with iSpy and see how that works out.
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Sep 1, 2020 00:41
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On this ip camera thread, is there a home security thread here?
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Sep 1, 2020 05:03
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Puddin posted:On this ip camera thread, is there a home security thread here? Yeah, the Home Automation and Security Systems in IYG is probably what you want.
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Sep 1, 2020 05:34
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Rexxed posted:Yeah, the Home Automation and Security Systems in IYG is probably what you want. They also talk IP cams in there too if you want more advice.
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Sep 1, 2020 05:37
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Awesome, thanks goons.
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Sep 1, 2020 05:41
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I'm having an issue with my USB card reader, it won't see anything when I put in a CF card and while it does see SD cards it will only transfer a few and then it stops. It also gave an error: error 0x800701B1 a device which does not exist was specified I've tried all the different USB ports on the system and made sure legacy USB support is on in the BIOS. The card reader works fine on a mac, and also worked on an older intel dell optiplex win 10. Its a Sandisk Imagemate. I'm not sure if I need a new reader or powered hub or what. System: R5 3600, asus x570 tuf gaming plus, win 10 pro
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Sep 2, 2020 18:02
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Arken_ca posted:I'm having an issue with my USB card reader, it won't see anything when I put in a CF card and while it does see SD cards it will only transfer a few and then it stops. It also gave an error: error 0x800701B1 a device which does not exist was specified If the reader is working on other systems normally then you may want to try a different USB port to see if it's some issue with one particular USB controller. The top most ones on the back I/O plate tend to be the most USB 2 compatible (at least for some motherboards that want to guarantee that the mice and keyboards work in the BIOS/UEFI), but it's no guarantee that this will change anything.
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Sep 2, 2020 19:08
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Rexxed posted:If the reader is working on other systems normally then you may want to try a different USB port to see if it's some issue with one particular USB controller. The top most ones on the back I/O plate tend to be the most USB 2 compatible (at least for some motherboards that want to guarantee that the mice and keyboards work in the BIOS/UEFI), but it's no guarantee that this will change anything. Sadly, I tried all the possible options for ports on the motherboard, and the ports on the case. All had the same issues. Also I forgot to mention its a USB 3 card reader.
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Sep 2, 2020 20:54
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Not sure where to ask this: Does anyone have an Elgato green screen? How "worth it" would you consider its portability and ease of access vs a regular green screen? Caveats, etc? I mean, it LOOKS nice and perfect but I'm not sure if there are issues with it that I might miss, besides "Not as big as cloth green screens."
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Sep 3, 2020 11:08
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