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If she is dug in on this car being a POS regardless of whether you fix it or not that thing has already scared the hell out of her and will remain unsafe in her mind. Dump the thing. It's not worth her being worried about you driving it.
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Sep 10, 2020 14:52
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diadem posted:Thanks to everyone for your advice. My mechanic was amazing when I first found him 10+ years ago, but there was some turnover in his shop over the last few years and my sense of loyalty blinded me to the changing reality. I'll bring my car to my wife's mechanic. In the meantime, my wife hasn't driven since she was first pregnant, so it's not like I need the Pilot at all. (She works remotely on account of the pandemic) The financial advice is clear to me here, get the car fixed and sell it. Eliminate the insurance and registration costs of that car, and fix it first so it's easier to sell, provided the repair is cheap. If the repair is more than, and I'm just pulling a number out of a hat, $750 or $1000, just sell it as is. Looks like if it's in good shape you could get $3500-$5000 out of it, working.
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Sep 10, 2020 16:44
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First time I've had a car where the battery is in the trunk so I thought I'd ask: if I want to use this car to jump-start another car where the battery is in the engine bay, should I hook the cables up to the battery in the trunk, or the points in the engine bay where the manual says to hook them up to if I had been trying to jump-start THIS car? For further details, my 2012 Kia Optima won't start. I know the battery is old but since my battery tender shows it as fully charged I'm thinking it's probably the solenoid/starter gone bad but want to try jumping it with my Kia Stinger just to make sure. If it won't start with a jump, do I just have to get it towed to the dealership where it's still under warranty or is there anything else I could try for a one-time start?
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Sep 10, 2020 17:55
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So uh, not sure what anyone's take is going to be on this or if there's a better thread but want to at least ask the internet: - Just moved literally across the country, replaced the battery in wife's 2014 Dart SXT (2.4L engine) right before since it was still OEM and have been in there 6-7 years. - Immediately pops CEL about implausible steering data (U0428) that I chalk up to nothing and should clear. - Drive cross-country (CVG - > LAX), light comes off within an hour of leaving--comes back on 3 days later as we arrive at our apartment. - Take it to dealer since it needs brakes done anyways at that point and have them look--they handwave and say everything checks out and clear the code. - Take car to be smogged (lol CA) and it fails as the CEL comes back on and has both a temporary and permanent code (U0428). Immediately return to dealer and say this is still a problem - Dealer squints at it for a few days, tried reprogramming PCM and other things. Opens a STAR report. Thinks they have it figured out. - Code comes back on within 24 hours of car being home. I look up the fault and find a theoretical fix online with my own OBD (wheels lock to lock 4 times with engine on; turn car off; turn car back on and clear code). This worked for a few days then immediately came back because the permanent fault code didn't resolve. - Brings me back to now. Probably going to take it back to the dealer? I literally have no idea what to do at this point because the only electrical change in the entire loving car was replacing the battery with a new one. The real problem? Car is still registered in Ohio and can't be registered in CA until it passes smog. Car registration expires in about 5 weeks. Anyone have any insights? Our worst-case at this point is Carmax gets a car in 3 weeks and I go car-less indefinitely since I'm WFH anyways.
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Sep 10, 2020 18:00
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davebo posted:First time I've had a car where the battery is in the trunk so I thought I'd ask: if I want to use this car to jump-start another car where the battery is in the engine bay, should I hook the cables up to the battery in the trunk, or the points in the engine bay where the manual says to hook them up to if I had been trying to jump-start THIS car? No idea on the first part. On the second part, make sure all your battery connections are clean and tight. 8 years is definitely long enough that some corrosion can be in place and causing high resistance.
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Sep 10, 2020 18:01
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TheGreyGhost posted:So uh, not sure what anyone's take is going to be on this or if there's a better thread but want to at least ask the internet: This link has some FSM info: https://www.dodge-dart.org/threads/hello-all.64748/, specifically: quote:The following diagnostic tree below is from the FSM. Notice The PCM is the least likely and last possibility. Network codes (U prefix) are almost always wiring problems. With the STAR connector system, diagnosis isn't difficult. A real mechanic will understand it, there is a video in the digital FSM. The actual steering angle sensor is in the steering rack and is not a separate part, meaning the whole rack would need replacement if it is the culprit. The steering column control module is part of the Multifunction Switch/Clockspring assembly behind the steering wheel. Except for a wiring problem, all expensive parts, so throwing parts at it is foolish. Diagnosis is key.
I'd check the wiring (mostly grounds). Everything else is $$$. Also, getting your car smogged is a good thing, trust me, you don't want to live here before that was a thing.
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Sep 10, 2020 18:32
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Krakkles posted:Check the electrical connections (especially ground) near the battery. Appreciate this, and definitely don't object to the practice. We actually used to smog in my part of Ohio growing up but we didn't have a bunch of these electronic checks that complicate the diagnostics a bit, just measurement of what was coming. Going to have to take a look.
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Sep 10, 2020 19:03
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davebo posted:First time I've had a car where the battery is in the trunk so I thought I'd ask: if I want to use this car to jump-start another car where the battery is in the engine bay, should I hook the cables up to the battery in the trunk, or the points in the engine bay where the manual says to hook them up to if I had been trying to jump-start THIS car? Either or is fine.
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Sep 10, 2020 22:01
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C-Bangin' it 
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Does the steering angle sensor affect emissions? Seems like they should update the program to fail only for emissions stuff. That being said it doesn't sound like something you want to ignore.
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Sep 11, 2020 00:15
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davebo posted:First time I've had a car where the battery is in the trunk so I thought I'd ask: if I want to use this car to jump-start another car where the battery is in the engine bay, should I hook the cables up to the battery in the trunk, or the points in the engine bay where the manual says to hook them up to if I had been trying to jump-start THIS car? If you're jumping another car from the trunk battery, go straight off the battery. There's sometimes fuses and just plain undersized wiring on the underhood terminal.
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Sep 11, 2020 01:00
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STR posted:If you're jumping another car from the trunk battery, go straight off the battery. There's sometimes fuses and just plain undersized wiring on the underhood terminal. My sister's "new" (2010) Prius died in her school parking lot last summer. It was so dead, she couldn't get the keyfob to trigger the doors. After I arrived with cables, and she recovered from the revelation that there was a tiny key in the fob, we found that the battery was in the back and that the hatch could not be opened because the release is solenoid-driven and there is no key/manual latch for the hatch...so she low-crawled into the back & put the clamps on. While back there, she found the OH poo poo handle and released the hatch. Later, I found the under-hood lugs & felt stupid...although I did wonder why they couldn't have designed a l'il feed circuit to energize the cranking battery from the main packs for just such an emergency.
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Sep 11, 2020 01:26
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Charles posted:Does the steering angle sensor affect emissions?
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Sep 11, 2020 01:35
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davebo posted:First time I've had a car where the battery is in the trunk so I thought I'd ask: if I want to use this car to jump-start another car where the battery is in the engine bay, should I hook the cables up to the battery in the trunk, or the points in the engine bay where the manual says to hook them up to if I had been trying to jump-start THIS car? heh, kind of funny that I jumped a buddy's Blazer last night using my Challenger, which has the battery in the trunk. I put the leads straight on my battery and it was fine.
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Sep 11, 2020 12:52
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Krakkles posted:Probably not, but “no check engine light” is the rule, and it’s a good rule. Some Mopars will trip the CEL if the AC compressor is dead (they briefly engage the compressor at startup). Or even for a bad refrigerant pressure switch. 
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Sep 11, 2020 14:49
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StormDrain posted:The financial advice is clear to me here, get the car fixed and sell it. Eliminate the insurance and registration costs of that car, and fix it first so it's easier to sell, provided the repair is cheap. If the repair is more than, and I'm just pulling a number out of a hat, $750 or $1000, just sell it as is. Looks like if it's in good shape you could get $3500-$5000 out of it, working. One thing I'm not sure about is that it doesn't have a perfect carfax report. Specifically, when I had to bring wife off at the hospital on account of the pregnancy, I relied on 20+ years of muscle memory instead of common sense when the steering didn't behave as normal due to a mechanical problem. I should have felt the difference and compensated (with super tight a confines an inch or two makes a huge difference). I ended up scratching a couple of inches of paint on the car parked next to me. While there was no damage to my own car's paint and it only cost a couple of hundred bucks to repaint the other car, the owner of the other car opted to take advantage of a rental car as long as possible. The rental car cost was well over a grand and was classified as "damage due to collision" on the records due to the high cost. With this red mark on the car's record and being so old, is it even worth the effort? I mean would people see that report and stay clear? diadem fucked around with this message at 14:54 on Sep 11, 2020 |
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Sep 11, 2020 14:52
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How the gently caress did they stretch a rental out enough to cost over a grand?! Insurance companies get STUPID cheap rates on rentals (think $15-20/day unless it's a luxury car or truck or something, and even then it's going to be half, of what you'd normally pay).
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Sep 11, 2020 15:29
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Worth the effort as opposed to what, junking it? It's a Honda. If you just want it gone, price it low and people will buy it without even pulling a carfax.
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Sep 11, 2020 15:31
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STR posted:How the gently caress did they stretch a rental out enough to cost over a grand?! Insurance companies get STUPID cheap rates on rentals (think $15-20/day unless it's a luxury car or truck or something, and even then it's going to be half, of what you'd normally pay). I mean I wasn't involved so I have no idea. I just know the results. It was nearly the exact amount to make my premium go up. IOwnCalculus posted:Worth the effort as opposed to what, junking it? Awesome. Works for me. Thanks again. Looks like a simple and solid plan.
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Sep 11, 2020 16:00
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Charles posted:Does the steering angle sensor affect emissions? Do you work for VW? That's a great way to scam the emissions system, run a different tune if the wheel is straight for x amount of time. I think theirs was based on having only two of the wheels turning or something, this works on AWD cars too!
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Sep 11, 2020 16:54
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StormDrain posted:Do you work for VW? That's a great way to scam the emissions system, run a different tune if the wheel is straight for x amount of time. I think theirs was based on having only two of the wheels turning or something, this works on AWD cars too! It's a serious question if the steering angle sensor affects emissions (it could somehow, I don't know what it controls), cause it's a smog check, although I don't want people driving around broken vehicles either. Also I'm curious how the reliability of Darts are.
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Sep 11, 2020 20:46
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Charles posted:It's a serious question if the steering angle sensor affects emissions (it could somehow, I don't know what it controls), cause it's a smog check, although I don't want people driving around broken vehicles either. If you mean the new Dodge Darts (which you do since you are talking about steering angle sensors), they are basically Alfa Romeo Giuliettas with the MultiAir engine (Ithink in 2 different sizes...). A good engine, but one that REALLY needs to be taken care of with regular oil changes and changing of the MultiAir filters. The early ones had MultiAir problems, but it was mainly solved a couple of years in. The Giulietta has a reliability index of 78 (100 is the average car) according to reliabilityindex.com. The Dart might be more fun. I wouldn't know as I've never driven one, but the Guilietta never really got to me. There is a good aftermarket support for the Dart though (much better than the Guilietta). Stay away from the MultiAir spring mods though. There are some stuff that can be improved by buy like 8C coil on plugs etc. Being FCA though, I'd not go into it expecting a Toyota-esque reliable car.
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Sep 11, 2020 21:28
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Motronic posted:This is what a cap tube looks like with "black death" (compressor parts) in the system: I finally got mine out. The stupid tool wasn't long enough to reach mine. I finally got it out with some squeeze to open tweezers. Mine doesn't look that bad:  So what's next to test? I replaced that leaking high side port by the way. Get this. On my truck's port, the core isn't removable. You have to unscrew the entire port from the line and replace it.
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Sep 11, 2020 22:25
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kid sinister posted:I finally got mine out. The stupid tool wasn't long enough to reach mine. I finally got it out with some squeeze to open tweezers. Mine doesn't look that bad: That doesn't look bad at all (like as in "ahhhhhh!!", it does looks clogged enough to POTENTIALLY cause your issue - hard to tell from a pic). And yeah, I've run into some non-replaceable cores mostly on GMs. So up next is a menu. It depends on what you've got on hand, what you're willing to do, etc. If this was in a fully equipped AC shop I'd pull the lines at the compressor and flush it to make sure there aren't any clogs. Then if all looked good I'd replace the accumulator and capillary tube, leak check with dry nitrogen, vac and charge. What's realistic for what you have to work with? Probably not a whole lot. I'd say the decision is between replacing the accumulator and cap tube now, vac and charge and see what's up or just vac and charge to test. Depends on how much the accumulator costs and how much it's costing you to get refrigerant recovered. If this was me in my not-well-equipped shop I'd send it. Accum+cap, vac and charge. Cross fingers. Motronic fucked around with this message at 23:33 on Sep 11, 2020 |
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Sep 11, 2020 23:30
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Motronic posted:That doesn't look bad at all (like as in "ahhhhhh!!", it does looks clogged enough to POTENTIALLY cause your issue - hard to tell from a pic). And yeah, I've run into some non-replaceable cores mostly on GMs. The tube didn't look that bad at all. It's mostly oil and/or dye coating the screen of the orifice tube, plus a few shavings from the tip of the thing. You can see the tip is boogered up from me having to grab the loving thing to yank it out. There wasn't any black sludge at all. I got gauges, a vacuum, a bunch of full cans. Doesn't seeing if it holds vacuum work as a leak check? I was planning on doing that first with the old accumulator. How far back in am I supposed to put the orifice tube? Is there some lip in there to push the tube back to? I didn't look in the hole once I got it out.
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Sep 12, 2020 00:16
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kid sinister posted:I got gauges, a vacuum, a bunch of full cans. Doesn't seeing if it holds vacuum work as a leak check? I was planning on doing that first with the old accumulator. Mostly. I'd say 90%+ of the time. It's what I do at home because I sure don't have a bottle of dry nitrogen here. Of course there are going to be some weird failure modes on some seals that will hold vacuum but blow out on pressure. It's rare in my experience. kid sinister posted:How far back in am I supposed to put the orifice tube? Is there some lip in there to push the tube back to? I didn't look in the hole once I got it out. It's been a long time since I did one, but I recall them always "clicking" in and stopping. The one you have should be no different than what I'm sure to with those double o-rings. They're gonna go over a lip (maybe) and (definitely) stop on something.
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Sep 12, 2020 01:50
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Krakkles posted:Probably not, but “no check engine light” is the rule, and it’s a good rule. Then gently caress yeah, my '07 Versa ROCKS! *"Service Engine Soon" lights* But I just changed the oil! I'll just reset-- FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU
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Sep 12, 2020 02:53
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Mostly I see leaks at pressure instead of vacuum because it's a few hundred psi differential instead of 14.7 so small leaks become much more apparent on the gauge much faster. Also if you are replacing the accumulator next I can't actually see any reason you *have* to use dry nitrogen - I've used argon before (stupid expensive compared to dry n2, but I had a cylinder on hand for tig backpurging) and you could probably use mig 75/25 just as well too. Pressure is pressure, as long as it's not a gas that will condense at the pressure you are testing to and are going to evac it again before charging. The only real difference I've noted is cost (doesn't matter if you're doing one system at home) and if you expect to use a thermistor based micron gauge on the system after, you WILL get insane results until you purge with n2 or air because those assume a certain average molecular or thermal mass when calculating pressure based on the rate at which a self heated thermistor or thermocouple loses heat.
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Sep 12, 2020 14:24
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I'm using a paint pen to touch up some chips. Will I need to apply a clearcoat layer after I apply the paint. Is the clearcoat mixed in with the base? Theres a hundred different methods Ive seen and I basically want to just not gently caress it up.
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Sep 12, 2020 17:15
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The set I got came with seperate clear coat. Ammonyc says to mix it with the base coat before applying so a separate clear layer isn't needed
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Sep 12, 2020 17:43
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05 Ford Escape V6 Hi I'm having a hell of a time trying to figure out which O2 sensor I need. Got the P2270 code which is bank 1 sensor 2 (I understand it can be other issues, but most likely the sensor so I'll start with that.) Okay, cool I'll look for that part online because they cost twice as much at a parts store. Well, O2 sensors aren't listed as bank 1 sensor 2. It's downstream/upstream left/right/from/back. I think that bank 1 sensor 2 is downstream left on the Ford V6. But here's the confusion - many listings on Amazon list the right/left downstream sensors as the same. Or Rockauto will have parts that fit both or are specific for one sensor. Another site I read said the Escape has 4 unique O2 sensors. So, do I need the specific one or are there generic ones that work in both downstream spots? I've spent over an hour trying to figure this out now I will ask you. Thanks.
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Sep 13, 2020 16:18
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It's on the passenger side just behind the oil pan. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sqyy_GtpDB0 Get NTK part # 22009. That's the OEM sensor for bank 1 sensor 2, according to Rockauto. $34 on Amazon shipped, $25 on Rockauto. Looks like it's a little bit of a pain just because of the angle. BTW, Rockauto does list it as bank 1 sensor 2 if you look at the NTK parts listed for it. But in this case, it's downstream rear. None of the others specify numbers, just either generic downstream or front/rear downstream. Easy to overlook if you're just skimming.  FWIW, comparing the two NTK downstream sensors (via pictures), it looks like the only difference is in the length of the wire. The ones that just specify downstream likely have the longer cable required by the rear one, which would leave you coiling up some wire somewhere if you were doing the front one. But NTK made the original ones for Ford, and they're cheaper than a lot of the replacements, may as well go with them IMO. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 17:17 on Sep 13, 2020 |
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Sep 13, 2020 16:45
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Thanks. I guess I'll just get the $35 one instead of guessing with all the 19.99 ones on Amazon.
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Sep 13, 2020 17:25
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Especially if you have a longer than necessary pigtail, sure your it is kept away from other components and doesn't end up resting on something, etc. That can cause wear and premature failure. I don't know about Ford / aftermarket sensors (aftermarket does some stuff to commonize parts as much as possible I think) but if they're different length, usually you would have different connector key ways on them to prevent misinstallation at the vehicle plant.
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Sep 13, 2020 17:45
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And "rent" the o2 socket set from the parts store.
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Sep 13, 2020 19:44
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My parents are out of town and I’ve been going over regularly to their house to feed the cats. An unknown car is parked on our private property. Will AAA tow cars like this to a tow yard? Or do I have to call a private company (and how much will that cost me generally)? I’m in California.
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Sep 14, 2020 18:00
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Private company. AAA only tows your own stuff. Google "worst towing company in <city>" and you should get some good hits on who will tow it with minimal charge (if any) to you. You may need to put up private property signs for a bit or something along those lines, if it's not insanely obvious to the stupidest person in the world that it's private property. Might want to call the police non-emergency # as well, it may be a stolen car that got dumped.
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Sep 14, 2020 18:23
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Do try calling your city to see if they'll do it too. Good luck. Try and make sure it isn't a misunderstanding first.
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Sep 14, 2020 18:44
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Motronic posted:Mostly. I'd say 90%+ of the time. It's what I do at home because I sure don't have a bottle of dry nitrogen here. Of course there are going to be some weird failure modes on some seals that will hold vacuum but blow out on pressure. It's rare in my experience. I looked closer. The pipe that the orifice tube is crimped in on 3 sides on the bottom. You know, I was thinking. If the orifice tube is just that, a tiny orifice for the refrigerant to flow through and it's held in place with 2 O-rings, then it really doesn't matter what depth along the pipe it is, as long as its snug. Speaking of O-rings, I replaced the 2 O-rings on the spring lock connector just above the orifice tube. It only took me 3 hours to figure out that the O-rings I still had and the first O-ring kit I bought were all the wrong size. I couldn't push that connector back together for the life of me. So I went to another store, bought the specific O-ring kit for my truck instead of the generic kit and it pushed right together! I pulled vacuum with it and I'm currently waiting an hour to see if it holds. If it does hold, I'll put a new accumulator on it, pull vac again and go get it filled up.
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Sep 14, 2020 22:58
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MrOnBicycle posted:If you mean the new Dodge Darts (which you do since you are talking about steering angle sensors), they are basically Alfa Romeo Giuliettas with the MultiAir engine (Ithink in 2 different sizes...). A good engine, but one that REALLY needs to be taken care of with regular oil changes and changing of the MultiAir filters. The early ones had MultiAir problems, but it was mainly solved a couple of years in. The Giulietta has a reliability index of 78 (100 is the average car) according to reliabilityindex.com. The Dart might be more fun. I wouldn't know as I've never driven one, but the Guilietta never really got to me. There is a good aftermarket support for the Dart though (much better than the Guilietta). Stay away from the MultiAir spring mods though. We've had that Dart for 6 years, and the electrical bullshit going on right now is the first issue we've had that goes beyond "meh tripped O2 sensor" or stuff like that (multiair 2.4) Granted, it's low mileage, but the reliability hasn't been the worst, particularly spending its life in the rust belt to this point. That said, the interior is an absolute penalty box, and we're ostensibly the 99th percentile of reliability on the car so I can't say I recommend it given that I live in fear of this thing throwing codes. It's also loud as gently caress for a car that size. We will firmly be eliminating all FCA products whenever this thing finally dies on us. Update from my post above, on the (now 3rd) visit over the CEL, they're fairly confident the issue is the clockspring and are replacing it. I've firmly settled on immediately selling this thing to Carmax if this doesn't get it working, since I'm just not sinking more money into a car we, at this point, openly despise.
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Sep 15, 2020 17:22
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WerthersWay posted:My parents are out of town and I’ve been going over regularly to their house to feed the cats. An unknown car is parked on our private property. Will AAA tow cars like this to a tow yard? Or do I have to call a private company (and how much will that cost me generally)? I’m in California. Just knock on the nosiest neighbor’s door and ask about the car. We just had a misunderstanding where an elderly neighbor was moved to assisted care, and the kid who mowed her lawn for a decade started parking in her driveway. Would’ve sucked if the family who came in to prep the estate sale had him towed instead of asking us about it.
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Sep 15, 2020 19:37
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