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Motronic posted:On what now? Lololol, it's sad that this even needs to be debunked. But he did a good job on it. So this is a liiittle bit of a troll. Part of the joke is he's actually been a proponent of it in the past (specifically the Green County Air-8) but there have been a lot of people calling it out as a "scam" in various places partially because (a) there are a lot of different products out there that claim to do "liquid aeration" that are different things, and (b) people have unrealistic expectations of what these products do/can be used for. His point (I believe) was that they can actually be great for one portion of the things that core aeration accomplishes (water permeability) and so can fit in really well at times where core aeration isn't really practical/convenient but they clearly aren't going to do what mechanical aeration does and so shouldn't be expected to. Actually, you could even combine it with core aeration -- go pull plugs, then do an application of AIR-8 (which will get further into the soil thanks to the holes. They are products that have their place, but calling them "Liquid Aeration" is probably misleading marketing at best. Motronic posted:Yes, I would watch more of his videos. He had me with starting out in front of a white board. He's got a whole White Board Playlist and one that's more focused on Fundamental Agronomics. Not the kind of thing you need to watch 100% of (unless you have always had some burning questions about Echelon 4SC Pre-Emergent or whatever) but it's worth skimming to be sure. His video on Root Cycling is a great watch for anyone who's inherited a lawn in rough shape: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bNPWEJiKmjE A good one on the pros and cons Milorganite: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k5m8exQGyME Hubis fucked around with this message at 20:25 on Sep 14, 2020 |
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Sep 14, 2020 20:22
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Hubis posted:They are products that have their place, but calling them "Liquid Aeration" is probably misleading marketing at best. Oh yeah, I picked up on the light trolling aspect (drat, those comments) but what I'm really surprised about was the quick google on "liquid aeration" I did before watching because the only liquid aeration I know of is hydraulic, not just spraying things on. And those things they are calling liquid aeration look suspicious like the surfactants we used to use after core aeration for, as you said, increasing permeability. They way they are being marked now is just laughable, but I get it: easy way to bilk the dollars from people who do zero research and just buy whatever says it will do the thing they think they need done. I'm taking a break from the three days of chipping I've been doing. With all this aeration talk I think I'm gonna go hook up the core aerator and run the yard. I'm gonna be due for another N application and my first K application of the fall - may as well get it it done before.
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Sep 14, 2020 20:35
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Oh, here's a good (if dry) one on how he'd put together a whole program: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U4EL00StLqs (Carbon-X being a product he developed that has some nice properties) Hed posted:Hmm that video got me thinking. How can I test my soil to ensure it has enough collagen peptides?? You can always use more, baby!
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Sep 14, 2020 20:37
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Motronic posted:Oh yeah, I picked up on the light trolling aspect (drat, those comments) but what I'm really surprised about was the quick google on "liquid aeration" I did before watching because the only liquid aeration I know of is hydraulic, not just spraying things on. And those things they are calling liquid aeration look suspicious like the surfactants we used to use after core aeration for, as you said, increasing permeability. They way they are being marked now is just laughable, but I get it: easy way to bilk the dollars from people who do zero research and just buy whatever says it will do the thing they think they need done. Do you need to buy any tractor toys? Because apparently the "Aera-Vator" it the new hotness: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ipes57sjcJY The idea is that you actually run it on dry soil (unlike core aeration) so that the mechanical motion of the vibrations opens up the entire area around the spike rather than just making one big hole where the plug comes out.
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Sep 14, 2020 20:48
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SpartanIvy posted:I know Skunks like to dig next to/under foundations so that would be my initial guess.
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Sep 14, 2020 22:45
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Fuuuck this bush. I’m tempted to pay the neighbor kid to dig out the rest of it. I also need to dig a hole in the other corner of the patio for a birch tree that’s getting delivered on Friday, so I might just spend extra and have him do both.
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Sep 15, 2020 13:19
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devmd01 posted:Fuuuck this bush. I’m tempted to pay the neighbor kid to dig out the rest of it. I also need to dig a hole in the other corner of the patio for a birch tree that’s getting delivered on Friday, so I might just spend extra and have him do both. This is what you want to dig that out: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Radius-Garden-58-in-Root-Slayer-XL-Shovel-22511/303354762 It’s brutally effective against small to medium sized roots
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Sep 15, 2020 13:26
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OSU_Matthew posted:This is what you want to dig that out: Ooh. I've got some invasive landscaping I hope to someday remove, and that's going to be crucial.
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Sep 15, 2020 14:12
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I can't imagine getting anywhere with a shovel and a small hand axe like that. That's something I would first go to my mattock for to really penetrate and cut more deeply.
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Sep 15, 2020 14:25
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OSU_Matthew posted:This is what you want to dig that out: This is awesome but godddammmnnn $70 for a shovel blade is a little hard to stomach (but prob worth it)
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Sep 15, 2020 14:56
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I keep a narrowish rectangular spade very sharp for this kind of thing. Great for transplanting and removing grass too. I have very little use for round nose shovels.
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Sep 15, 2020 15:01
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OSU_Matthew posted:This is what you want to dig that out:  Devmd01, if your neighbor has some sort of equipment to dig that other hole you're talking about he can pull that bush out with a chain in about 30 seconds. So don't break your back over it if he's coming in to do the other part anyway. Good on you for leaving a high stump - that makes this possible.
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Sep 15, 2020 15:28
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Motronic posted:
I'm still weeping over that poor acer palmatum dissectum 
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Sep 15, 2020 20:30
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Hubis posted:I'm still weeping over that poor acer palmatum dissectum Yes, I weep every time I remember how ugly it was. Went though the chipper really easily.
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Sep 15, 2020 21:06
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Motronic posted:Yes, I weep every time I remember how ugly it was. Went though the chipper really easily. 
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Sep 15, 2020 23:32
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devmd01 posted:Fuuuck this bush. I’m tempted to pay the neighbor kid to dig out the rest of it. I also need to dig a hole in the other corner of the patio for a birch tree that’s getting delivered on Friday, so I might just spend extra and have him do both. https://i.imgur.com/UWCFtrZ.gifv You know you want to try it Do it with a not-so-good friend's vehicle
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Sep 16, 2020 01:15
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BonoMan posted:This is awesome but godddammmnnn $70 for a shovel blade is a little hard to stomach (but prob worth it) I think it’s a hair cheaper elsewhere if you poke around, but yeah, it’s fairly steep. Absolutely worth it though, the thing has paid for itself many times over with this stupid fence project. Motronic posted:
 Always overbuy(rent) heavy equipment is the lesson I’ve learned. Finally got someone in with a skidsteer and auger to drill the last set of the fence holes, and after seeing the rocks he yanked out of a few of them, it was money very well spent.  
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Sep 16, 2020 01:41
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OSU_Matthew posted:Always overbuy(rent) heavy equipment is the lesson I’ve learned. Finally got someone in with a skidsteer and auger to drill the last set of the fence holes, and after seeing the rocks he yanked out of a few of them, it was money very well spent. Looks like a little T140. They are bad rear end. I used to have one.
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Sep 16, 2020 01:53
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In the thumbnail the yellow wonder bar looks like a video game health bar.
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Sep 16, 2020 15:57
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Smugworth posted:https://i.imgur.com/UWCFtrZ.gifv That's relatively ingenious. Only thing I don't care for is that it tears up the yard because the wheel moves as it rotates. And that post was properly installed. Like a friggin' iceberg - 80% under the surface.
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Sep 16, 2020 20:03
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Sadly there isn’t enough room to get a truck in the back yard at a good angle without a lot of messing up the grass. I just kept plugging away at it this week and finally got it loose...then immediately realized that the root ball was way too heavy for me to even lift out of the hole. Crappy old axe to the rescue! 
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Sep 16, 2020 21:25
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Jerk McJerkface posted:Ok, I'll look into it. Here's my revised plan, switched out the Potash and the milorganite for the fertilizer you recommended. I wanted to give an update on this.  Dog McDogface isn't happy with the new yellow pokey lawn, but she doesn't like any change, so whatever. I had some buddies over, got 5 cubic yards of dirt, and a few six packs and we had at it. The yard was very unlevel before, but now I filled in all the low spots, cut down some high spots, and fixed the paver patio in the back (it had all washed out and was super low). I angled the yard to the right side of the picture (that'd be to the south east) so it will drain away from the house. There's a large paved driveway/parking lot behind that white fence, and the guy doesn't' take care of it at all, so when it rains, all the trash and debris flows into my yard, so I build a 1ft high wall with 6x6 railroad ties and nailed it down to border the fence so it can't flow into my yard any more. I imagine he'll start to wonder why his driveway floods when it rains, but that's his problem. I need to finish the last 6ft. I had enough ties, but one was rotten and I had to get rid of it.
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Sep 17, 2020 17:35
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Jerk McJerkface posted:I wanted to give an update on this. Nice work, man! One thing to add to your plan I forgot - grubs. May not be necessary, but I'd hate for your hard work to be undermined. GrubEx is a good, safe, and bee-friendly product for that. Put it down per the label in May and you should be good.
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Sep 17, 2020 22:14
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Birch tree was delivered yesterday afternoon and I got it in the ground after dinner. Should give us some nice shade once it matures.
devmd01 fucked around with this message at 14:08 on Sep 19, 2020 |
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Sep 19, 2020 13:43
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So I spent half the day today clearing out a corner of our backyard as my rewire project is stalled until the kitchen is finished in a few weeks. I want to build a basic fire pit in about a 12 circular foot area, currently composed of dirt and whatever vine roots I wasn't able to clear today. The pit itself shouldn't be a problem but I am wondering on ground covering around it. Wondering if anyone has suggestions for cheap landscaping ideas around the pit itself. I want to use the cheapest crushed gravel I can find; my wife wants me to put in pavers. Please please give me some great reasons not go through the labor of pavers, or any other suggestions for this little project.
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Sep 21, 2020 01:41
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My wife liked the birch tree so much that she wanted another one on the corner of the house.  I put some pavers in next to the drainage pipe while I did it to protect it from the roots.  It’s gonna be 10+ years before we can afford to do this but we want to eventually completely re-do the patio, expand it, and put in a screened in porch in one side. I did a basic sketch of what the plan would look like. 
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Sep 22, 2020 12:23
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That doesn’t look like a birch to me?
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Sep 22, 2020 14:37
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rdb posted:That doesn’t look like a birch to me? No, but I definitely see one right here!  Poor phrasing aside, a birch tree next to the foundation would be bad news.
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Sep 22, 2020 15:19
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This is an odd post and I'm not quite sure where to ask it (hunting thread? IDK) but this seems like the most appropriate DIY thread. What's going to be the best way to get rid of a beaver dam? It's fairly inaccassible to any kind of heavy equipment, so it's probably going to be me with a some waders and a tool of some sort. It looks like it is mostly mud, not sticks, but I'm sure there are sticks under the mud. Should I just chop a small hole in it with a mattock and let water/erosion do the rest? I remember my grandfather saying they used to get someone to dynamite them, but I don't think you can just walk into the hardware store and buy a stick of TNT anymore. It's on private land, and from what I can tell my state considers beavers damaging timber to be a nuisance/vermin and there's no regulation protecting them/their dam as long as I'm not trapping them for fur (which is a post for a different thread). They're cute and all and the pond is kind of nice at the moment, but my parents' also don't want them hanging around forever and eating every sapling and killing every tree in a 200 yard radius.
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Sep 27, 2020 14:29
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Per my understanding from property owners I've talked to, there's no use in trying to destroy their dam until you get rid of them. They can rebuild about as fast as you tear down. If there's a way to install drainage around their dam (like a pipe they can't figure out how to block), it may discourage them enough to leave. Is this a steam/creek they have dammed, or is it a bay/marsh/meadow (these describe similar features that I've heard exchanged in different areas) that naturally floods in times of heavy rain?
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Sep 27, 2020 22:41
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My grandparents had a big farm in the tug hill region of upstate NY. They had a couple spots that beavers would occasionally invade and dam up. The key to getting rid of the dam is to kill all the beavers first. They are wary as hell and its easier to trap them than shoot them all. Once they are gone, you can remove the dam however you want. One of the dams required a bulldozer, the other spot they liked to dam up needed an state crew with an excavator since it was a road culvert. The toughest part was getting rid of them first. A mattock and a shovel sounds difficult at best because they usually have 10” diameter logs comprising the majority of the structure. I don’t think you will easily get through by hand. All it takes is one left, and they will repair whatever break you make overnight.
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Sep 27, 2020 22:41
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According to a Candian Geographic or maybe National Geographic tv program I watched several years ago, Beavers hate the sound of running water. Some scientists apparently put some speakers out near a beaver dam that were playing the sounds of running water. Them fuckin beavers "dammed" up the speakers. So bypassing a beaver dam probably ain't going to do poo poo. wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 22:51 on Sep 27, 2020 |
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Sep 27, 2020 22:48
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Echoing those comments - find and hire a local trapper to get rid of the animals before you even bother with the dams. Then it sounds like some tannerite would be your best bet depending on the size of the dam. We just let nature take care of it and after a few years, plenty of freeze-thaw and more than a couple floods, the dams were essentially gone.
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Sep 27, 2020 22:49
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wesleywillis posted:According to a Candian Geographic or maybe National Geographic tv program I watched several years ago, Beavers hate the sound of running water. Some scientists apparently put some speakers out near a beaver dam that were playing the sounds of running water. Them fuckin beavers "dammed" up the speakers. quote:Flow devices are man-made solutions to beaver-related flooding problems. Traditional solutions have involved the trapping and removal of all the beavers in an area. While this is sometimes necessary, it is typically a short-lived solution, as beaver populations have made a remarkable comeback in the United States (after near extirpation in the nineteenth century) and rapidly recolonize suitable habitat.[1] In fact, a 2006 survey found that trapping as a solution to beaver problems had a 79% failure rate within two years due to resettlement by new beavers.[2] Flow devices are relatively cost-effective, low-maintenance solutions that regulate the water level of beaver dams and keep culverts open.[3][4][5] A 2006 study by the Virginia Department of Transportation found that for every $1 spent on flow-device installation relative to historical preventive maintenance, road repairs, and beaver population control activities, $8 was saved, for a return on investment of nearly 8:1.[6] https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flow_device https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2WLwleKVW4 It may not work here for various reasons, and it definitely may not affect the beavers enough that they move along so trapping/euthanizing is probably still necessary, especially if tree destruction is the primary concern. But, it's definitely A Thing that has been effective in some cases, especially to minimize flooding.
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Sep 28, 2020 01:17
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Thats actually a good idea. And the materials don’t look that expensive.
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Sep 28, 2020 02:20
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angryrobots posted:https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flow_device  !!!! No kidding.
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Sep 28, 2020 02:47
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Beavers are industrious little bastards, here’s a >10’ dam that’s just the fourth tier of an entire freaking lake they made: You look at the first tier and are like neat! It’s a miniature 1’ dam. And then you hike a bit, find another tier, and then another. It’s really cool in person. Is it true that if they don’t have wood to chew, their teeth will grow through their skull? Also, I thought that beavers were generally really good for ecosystems?
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Sep 28, 2020 04:53
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Biggest known beaver dam is supposed to be like over a half mile long. Also, I remember hearing that Beavers had made their way down to the Niagara Gorge. It'd be hilarious if they dammed up the lower Niagara River.
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Sep 28, 2020 06:14
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My brother in law and his father are renting an overseeder for the weekend in two weeks. I'm going to borrow it for our front lawn and have a question about what kind of seed to get. Right now the front lawn is basically weeds. I'm in Delaware and the front lawn faces east, so it gets about 6 hours of direct sunlight. We've had a landscaping service do this before but it never took. My plan is to mow low right before I do reseed and do good watering. Recommendations on seeds that would stand up to intense sunlight and is mowing low a good plan?
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Sep 28, 2020 10:29
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OSU_Matthew posted:Also, I thought that beavers were generally really good for ecosystems? They do create new habitat, but sometimes their dams are a hazard by not allowing water flow in areas prone to flooding. Often, the bypass pipes I posted about earlier don't attempt to completely drain their pond, but just mitigate the flood hazard.
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Sep 28, 2020 12:06
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