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kid sinister posted:Wait a second. You can run PVC into the cast iron bell? How would that work? I haven't verified if I would need to do this yet, I'm just curious. They make rubber slip-couplings that’ll fit into the bell. I installed one by installing the rubber sleeve into the bell, installing a length of 4” PVC greased up with dish detergent into the rubber, put a piece of 2x4 across the end of the PVC, and hammered it home. The rubber sleeves designed for this are ribbed on the outside... Don’t worry unduly about the casting seam and the roundness. If you have moderately good/sound iron, then a Fernco coupling with a metal support sleeve will do the job. To test the soundness of the pipe, sharply tap it with a hammer. The head should pop off smartly and a light ring may be heard. If it’s rotten, you’ll get a dull thud. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 23:21 on Sep 20, 2020 |
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Sep 20, 2020 23:14
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PainterofCrap posted:Yes, if you have 3-4-inches minimum to the bell on the stack. Push gaskets. I wish. My company makes me do it old school. Oakum, lead and running rope. I'm probably one of the few guys under 50 who know how to do it. Either way no you aren't hosed. I don't know where you live but here in my area we could get that fixed up for you for about $300 in a couple of hours.
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Sep 21, 2020 01:30
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PainterofCrap posted:
Uhh, don't you get rid of cast iron pipes by cracking them into little pieces by whacking them with a hammer?
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Sep 21, 2020 02:31
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kid sinister posted:Uhh, don't you get rid of cast iron pipes by cracking them into little pieces by whacking them with a hammer? If cast iron blows apart from you giving it a solid tap with a claw hammer then it was already bad to begin with.
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Sep 21, 2020 02:43
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mcgreenvegtables posted:I am getting an irrigation system installed on my house in the next few weeks. Both companies I've had out said due to the grading of my property and placement of the valve I have the wrong kind of backflow preventer on the house and need to swap it for an RPZ backflow. I'm not sure if anyone answered this, but I'm not sure why you would need an RPZ unless there are going to be parts of your yard where the irrigation goes where the irrigation line(s) may be at an elevation equal or above the elevation of the poppet of that pressure vacuum breaker. Otherwise, most jurisdictions require 12" to 18" from maximum irrigation line centerline to the centerline of the PVB outlet. FWIW, a lot of landscapers like to put the flow control valve in a valve box that's slightly buried. They're also often used to the old atmospheric vacuum breakers, that look a little bit like a PVB. You're not supposed to have any valves downstream of an AVB, which is why a lot of landscapers will say that the "AVB" needs to be replaced with a RPZ BFP because they don't have experience with, or knowledge of the working differences, between an AVB and a PVB. PVBs can have valves downstream, but should not see any type of backpressure, hence where the RPZ BFP may be required if your irrigation setup would allow backpressure to occur.
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Sep 21, 2020 06:38
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This just gets better and better. The PO, my own brother, just tiled around the old toilet. Worse, the back bottom of said toilet cracked and disintegrated when I pulled it up, so I can't reuse it. How do I mount a new toilet when the floor is at 2 different levels? Which level do I mount the new flange at? Redoing the entire floor is out of the question right now. It's our only toilet and I don't have anywhere to put my family in the meantime. I'd rather not move them in with a relative with COVID-19 going around. Now that I think about it, redoing the flange a second time when the floor does get redone wouldn't be too difficult. I would only need to replace the piping to that new sleeve coupling. edit: I decided to compare the footprint of new toilets against the original one at the store and discovered that my old toilet's footprint was tiny. Also, that pink tile is lower than the surrounding tile, so I shouldn't have any problems setting a new toilet on the new flange I installed. Of course, I'll need to fix all of this properly once we redo that bathroom... kid sinister fucked around with this message at 23:19 on Sep 21, 2020 |
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Sep 21, 2020 18:56
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Until you redo it, mount the flange to the low tile. Install flange spacers on top of that so the bottom of final spacer you use would be roughly equivalent to the height of the high tile. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Sioux-Chief-886-RQ-1-4-Closest-Flange-Extension-Ring
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Sep 21, 2020 23:32
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Also punch your brother in the face
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Sep 21, 2020 23:46
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SourKraut posted:I'm not sure if anyone answered this, but I'm not sure why you would need an RPZ unless there are going to be parts of your yard where the irrigation goes where the irrigation line(s) may be at an elevation equal or above the elevation of the poppet of that pressure vacuum breaker. Otherwise, most jurisdictions require 12" to 18" from maximum irrigation line centerline to the centerline of the PVB outlet. Yes, I am on a sloped lot, the backflow preventer is installed at the grade of the walkout basement, and the front lawn is about 4-6' higher in places. In any case, anything I need to know about replacing with an RPZ besides basic plumbing skills?
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Sep 22, 2020 00:18
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SpartanIvy posted:Also punch your brother in the face Applicable advice for anyone who has a brother, really. If they ask why just say that they should remember what they did to you that one time back when you were kids. They'll fill in the blanks and realize you are right.
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Sep 22, 2020 00:23
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kid sinister posted:This just gets better and better. If you want to do it a fancy way I had luck with one of these: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_yuvPieVlJQ
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Sep 22, 2020 01:30
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SpartanIvy posted:Also punch your brother in the face I sent him a scathing text with these pictures. The footprint of the new toilet is big enough to cover most of the old toilet's footprint. It's good enough for now. I know that this isn't permanent. I will definitely replace this as soon as I can.
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Sep 22, 2020 02:16
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Looking for advice from anyone familiar with upflush macerating toilets like the ones from Saniflo. Can anyone tell me how far vertically the pump can push? Our new home has a slightly below-grade laundry room (formerly the garage) where we'd like to put a toilet. We would need to install an upflush toilet to make it up the 2ish feet needed to get it to drain to the sewer stack. Our initial idea was to remove the existing sink and replace it with the toilet, wall it in, then install one of those toilet sink lids for hand washing (yes, I'm aware it will be bitch-rear end cold in the winter). However, this area is not ideal for a walled-in shitter because it's beside the stairs, but we were going to live with it. A plumbing company had a look and their estimator suggested putting the toilet on the other side of the room, pumping the waste up into the attic, then back down to the outflow on the other side of the room. I'm not sure this is possible, but the only info I can find on the Saniflow website is that the pump "can pump waste to a soil stack 150 feet away". It doesn't say at what grade / how high it can pump. Should I stick with the original plan of a tiny room and no sink, or should I blast my turds into the stratosphere and hope I don't have the worst attic leak ever?
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Sep 22, 2020 03:40
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The saniflo site says pretty plainly "↑ 15 Ft ↑ and/or ← 150 Ft →" https://www.saniflo.com/us/installing-a-toilet/73-saniplus.html - Landing page from google. Product sheet confirms it. This shows 9ft: https://www.saniflo.com/us/home/74-sanicompact.html H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 04:09 on Sep 22, 2020 |
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Sep 22, 2020 04:07
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Thanks, Google seems to have sent me to saniflodepot (which didn't have the vertical plainly listed) but not the manufacturer's site.
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Sep 22, 2020 04:52
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kid sinister posted:I sent him a scathing text with these pictures.
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Sep 23, 2020 04:26
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How bad is it if my washing machine, and thus also my future utility sink, drain to my sump and not the sewage line?
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Sep 24, 2020 19:40
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Harold Fjord posted:How bad is it if my washing machine, and thus also my future utility sink, drain to my sump and not the sewage line? It's not to code, and "how bad" depends a lot on where the discharge is going and what products you use/end up down that sump pit.
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Sep 24, 2020 19:50
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In many areas, and in Pennsylvania at least, discharging greywater on the ground is a violation of the state DEP laws. Greywater basically needs to go to its own mini-septic system if it isn't going to your primary sewer/septic. If the DEP gets up your rear end, you'll really wish they hadn't.
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Sep 24, 2020 20:05
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If I'm removing an ABS sink drain, it's just cut it back to its source and cap it with the ABS cement/cleaner, right? It's not cutting it back + capping can mess up anything else? It's already temporarily capped after the existing p-trap, this would just be cutting it back further. I think I'm being paranoid so I thought I'd ask strangers on the internet.
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Sep 25, 2020 15:39
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Jenkl posted:If I'm removing an ABS sink drain, it's just cut it back to its source and cap it with the ABS cement/cleaner, right? It's not cutting it back + capping can mess up anything else? Eh, I'd leave enough to attach a coupler to in the future if you or a future owner decide to put a drain there. As long as you don't cut past the wye, you're OK. If you did, you'd potentially screw up the venting for lower fixtures or have all the higher fixtures drain into this room. You could use a rubber flexible cap of appropriate size as well. edit: another option is to add a cleanout.
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Sep 25, 2020 18:53
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So I was watching an episode of 'This Old House' and Richard the plumber said the toilet would go here, and the lavatory here. Errr as a non-American I have to ask...Whats the difference ? Its the same thing in the UK.
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Sep 25, 2020 20:34
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kid sinister posted:Eh, I'd leave enough to attach a coupler to in the future if you or a future owner decide to put a drain there. As long as you don't cut past the wye, you're OK. If you did, you'd potentially screw up the venting for lower fixtures or have all the higher fixtures drain into this room. You could use a rubber flexible cap of appropriate size as well. Thanks. Haven't cut yet. I thiiiiink I can leave few inches for a coupler and still have the room we want.
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Sep 25, 2020 21:18
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Baconroll posted:So I was watching an episode of 'This Old House' and Richard the plumber said the toilet would go here, and the lavatory here. Errr as a non-American I have to ask...Whats the difference ? Its the same thing in the UK. Lav or lavatory is referring to the sink.
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Sep 25, 2020 21:34
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Baconroll posted:So I was watching an episode of 'This Old House' and Richard the plumber said the toilet would go here, and the lavatory here. Errr as a non-American I have to ask...Whats the difference ? Its the same thing in the UK. Lavatory is the sink. I've sometimes heard the entire bathroom referred to as the lavatory. Somehow I think that last one is a holdover from the Victorian days when people were too embarrassed to ask strangers where the thunder bucket is.
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Sep 25, 2020 21:41
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To continue the terminolgy discussion, in the code books a toliet is actually referred to as a "water closet". Some old timers will use that term as well. Most plumbers in regular conversation use toliet though.
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Sep 26, 2020 01:10
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Is that referring to the actual toilet or the room?
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Sep 26, 2020 02:19
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Both. When indoor plumbing started becoming popular, people built toilets in little rooms indoors, just like an outhouse. Again, those crazy Victorians didn't like saying thunder bucket, so they called it the "water closet". People would cram all this indoor plumbing in the same room, the toilet, sink and tub. There was a lock on the door to this room since you're naked while bathing, so after awhile it became obvious that we didn't need to build a smaller closet in this "bath room" to put the shitter in anymore. Bathroom won in the vernacular and water closet won in the blueprints and codebook.
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Sep 26, 2020 03:49
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BubbaGrace posted:Push gaskets. I wish. My company makes me do it old school. Oakum, lead and running rope. I'm probably one of the few guys under 50 who know how to do it. Either way no you aren't hosed. I don't know where you live but here in my area we could get that fixed up for you for about $300 in a couple of hours. Do you live in like NYC or Chicago? I thought those were the only two places that still did lead oakum joints.
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Sep 27, 2020 16:06
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Gotta call the water company tomorrow. Soggy ground all around my meter box, about 2-3 solid inches of water in the bottom of my box. Hopefully it is on their side but I live in an older home so of course it won’t.
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Sep 27, 2020 16:50
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Bird in a Blender posted:Do you live in like NYC or Chicago? I thought those were the only two places that still did lead oakum joints. Detroit, and no its not required here by code. It's just my company's policy to not use them. It's dumb but no reason to quit over.
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Sep 27, 2020 17:23
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BubbaGrace posted:Detroit, and no its not required here by code. It's just my company's policy to not use them. It's dumb but no reason to quit over. That's awesome. I've found maybe 2 youtube videos of people using caulking rods and doing it old school. Have you ever used lead and oakum to secure a pvc pipe into a cast iron bell? I saw a picture of a plumber that did that instead of a fernco coupling and I was dubious if that's the better way.
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Sep 27, 2020 17:42
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You can lead caulk in PVC with out damaging the pipe. Like always though, check your local codes if this is allowed in your area. I'm not allowed to do it at my company. Not a code thing, just policy. I have to cut a short stubby of cast with a mechanical coupling (Fernco) to transition to plastic.
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Sep 27, 2020 19:43
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Is there a purpose for stubs in copper supply lines? I've got a leaky T fitting in my kitchen that needs to be replaced, and it's right below the vertical stub. I'm not super keen on replacing that portion if it's just a leftover.
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Sep 28, 2020 02:40
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BonerGhost posted:Is there a purpose for stubs in copper supply lines? I've got a leaky T fitting in my kitchen that needs to be replaced, and it's right below the vertical stub. I'm not super keen on replacing that portion if it's just a leftover. Are you talking about the water hammer arrestor? You want that so your pipes don’t rattle when you turn off the faucet.
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Sep 28, 2020 02:49
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Hi, Plumbing thread! I need to slap together a steaming box for some lumber, and I’ve read that certain kinds of pipe are good for that, so I’m trying to figure out what kind of pipe I should buy. I need somewhere between about 16 and 20 feet of pipe with an inside diameter of more than 5” (so probably at least 6”) that I can drill steamer hose input and vent holes into, and that can stand up to hot water steam (which I assume means a maximum working temperature of 212°F/100°C or higher?) for several hours at a time (let’s say 4, if it matters). I’m also gonna need a couple of end caps and possibly one or more couplings, which means I’ll need pipe-fitting adhesive/glue/whatever that can stand up to those same conditions. What are gonna be my cheapest options here?
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Sep 28, 2020 08:26
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Charlotte Pipe CPVC Chemdrain has a max temperature of 220 degrees fahrenheit. Whether compromising the pipe via drilling would affect this or not, I don't know. I can't say if this would be cheaper than copper either since its not something I've worked with before. I assume it would be though, since 5" or larger copper would be pretty pricey. There may be better options out there though using other materials if you're willing to have some fabrication done.
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Sep 28, 2020 08:49
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I. M. Gei posted:Hi, Plumbing thread! I need to slap together a steaming box for some lumber, and I’ve read that certain kinds of pipe are good for that, so I’m trying to figure out what kind of pipe I should buy. Waters max temp at standard pressure is 212°F, at which point it vaporizes. Steam's max temp isn't. That said if youre boiling water and it's traveling through pipe its probably around there or maybe a little less. In any case, black or galvanized metal pipe sold at hardware stores doesnt have any heat related issues and is available and reasonably cheap. Long term it will rust, but you can inhibit that by keeping oil or lubricants on the cap threads. Galvanized may take longer to corrode.
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Sep 28, 2020 12:58
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eddiewalker posted:Are you talking about the water hammer arrestor? You want that so your pipes don’t rattle when you turn off the faucet. It's just a section of pipe that extends vertically past the tee and is capped off, not a device. Does this actually function as an arrestor?
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Sep 28, 2020 16:09
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BonerGhost posted:It's just a section of pipe that extends vertically past the tee and is capped off, not a device. Does this actually function as an arrestor? The idea here is to have a bubble of air trapped in the vertical sections to act as a spring. 
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Sep 28, 2020 16:20
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