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I did a brake bleed/fluid swap on my 2017 Golf Sportwagen. I used fluid that seemed to meet spec (Type 200 DOT4, had German language all over it and came with a kit designed for Euro cars). Now the brake booster squeaks when I'm letting off the brake pedal. It is possible the booster isn't happy with the fluid in some way? Isn't one DOT 4 fluid the same spec as another?
midge fucked around with this message at 20:17 on Sep 27, 2020 |
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Sep 27, 2020 19:55
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1998 Chevrolet S10. I disassembled the whole front end and removed the LED ramp that the PO had installed as well as the wiring. I've also removed and reinstalled the windshield washer and headlight washers. I only noticed two ground leads in conjunction with this. Both are reinstalled. Now the left headlight won't turn off no matter what setting or key position, and the right low beam doesn't come on at all. Kinda sounds like a ground or something is hosed? I'm going to recheck and clean both the forementioned ground points tomorrow. But who knows if the splicing from the LED ramp has messed with the headlights as well. I've got the wiring diagram so I might as well go through all the grounds that I can access. Also stupid rear end PO used connections for the oil cooler so the factory airbox doesn't fit properly. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 20:33 on Sep 27, 2020 |
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Sep 27, 2020 20:23
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What causes old car smell, and can I get rid of it? Like, old old, not “I drove one of those in high school” old. The 67 Datsun 1600 I’ve mentioned here before just has a certain odor. Like...hot? maybe? I don’t know how to describe it. It’s had that smell as long as I can remember. I can smell it in the garage when I walk in, and it has nothing to do with running it or not. It’s not a bad smell per se, but not pleasant, either. I imagine it has something to do with the various soft parts, like rubber seals and such, decaying over the decades? Is this something people typically get with old cars, or have I been blessed with a unique experience? I’d love to fix it but I have no idea what is even causing it.
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Sep 27, 2020 20:33
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midge posted:I did a brake bleed/fluid swap on my 2017 Golf Sportwagen. I used fluid that seemed to meet spec (Type 200 DOT4, had German language all over it and came with a kit designed for Euro cars). Now the brake booster squeaks when I'm letting off the brake pedal. It is possible the booster isn't happy with the fluid in some way? Isn't one DOT 4 fluid the same spec as another? How exactly did you perform this fluid swap/bleed? If it was "2 man" as in, somebody pumping the brake pedal you've likely damaged your master cylinder by jamming a ring of rust on the piston through the seal (from making it pedal travel further than it has in....ever).
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Sep 27, 2020 21:53
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 What's this? Datsun (210?) or Toyota? I don't know this era of cars well but I always like seeing them.
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Sep 27, 2020 23:12
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Motronic posted:How exactly did you perform this fluid swap/bleed? If it was "2 man" as in, somebody pumping the brake pedal you've likely damaged your master cylinder by jamming a ring of rust on the piston through the seal (from making it pedal travel further than it has in....ever). It was 1 man. I was using a pressurized unit (Power Bleeder) that serves the fluid to the master cylinder while forcing the fluid through the system at 10 psi. No one was using the brake pedal during the process. From reading more, it seems Type 200 isn't low viscosity, which is required. Looks like I'm doing it all over again this week! midge fucked around with this message at 00:42 on Sep 28, 2020 |
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Sep 28, 2020 00:33
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Chunjee posted:How do I bench test an O2 sensor heater circuit? I tried one from ebay ($18), no dice, tried another from Rockauto ($120); seemingly solved the P1150, P1155 code. I just want to know how so I don't have to guess next time. You need to know the pinout of your sensor but assuming it's a four-wire, two of them will be dedicated to the heater. If you're testing the car's circuit, you'll want to see +12V across those pins when the heater is supposed to be on. If you're checking the sensor, you should see continuity with some resistance. Actual spec will depend on your particular sensor but should likely be in the ballpark of 10 ohms.
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Sep 28, 2020 01:47
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Anyone running a flex fuel sensor on a return style car? Where are you putting the sensor? I'm reading conflicting information, some people put it right before the fuel rail inlet, some people have it after the fuel pressure regulator on the return
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Sep 28, 2020 02:07
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Charles posted:
I think that is a 1970-1974 Toyota Corolla? Maybe a Celica? I don't think the Datsun rear windows ever had that shape. Could be a Mitsubishi. Certainly not a Mazda.
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Sep 28, 2020 02:47
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Its a Datsun B210 https://www.curbsideclassic.com/blog/cc-outtake/curbside-outtake-a-datsun-b210-in-the-shade/
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Sep 28, 2020 03:20
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Charles posted:
That appears to be a '77 Datsun 210
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Sep 28, 2020 03:21
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Roll-On Bedliner. I'm considering UPOL Raptor, tinted, for my flatbed. It's black now and would go to white, I'd consider spraying with a lighter primer (probably epoxy gray or tan) first to help hiding. My questions: should I worry about epoxy primer first or not? I figure it goes on thick enough that I shouldn't worry but also it won't hurt. Is rolling it on OK? I think I can borrow the right spray gun for it but I would have to get my hands on a compressor and I don't think the neighbor with the gun has a movable compressor I can use, so I don't know where I would get one. Is that a good brand? It looks like it and has good review but I like the goon input. It's 60SF, and coverage appears to be 110-130 per gallon so I'm hoping to get by with two quarts. No sides or anything, just a flat surface 8.5' x 7', diamond plate.
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Sep 28, 2020 04:01
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midge posted:It was 1 man. I was using a pressurized unit (Power Bleeder) that serves the fluid to the master cylinder while forcing the fluid through the system at 10 psi. No one was using the brake pedal during the process. Boo. I had a squeaky pedal after having the dealership flush mine. Not that it means it’s Ok, but it did go away in my case. Good luck though, maybe try the dealer for the VW stuff if FCP or one of those cats don’t stock it.
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Sep 28, 2020 04:38
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Weird pandemic “I’m not using my car” question. My 2000 Mustang GT has been sitting for ... basically however long this has been going on now. (I think I’ve moved it twice). On the last occasion, and today, the car appears to have a dead battery (remote doesn’t work to unlock, no lights or response when turning key on, doesn’t start). This seems weird, because I’ve got a solar charger hooked up, but whatever, take the battery out, put it on the charger. As soon as I hook it up to the charger (an Optima smart charger, used frequently and recently), the charger reports it’s fully charged. In the last case, I put it back in, the car starts right up. I haven’t done that yet this time, but ... wtf?
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Sep 28, 2020 04:55
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You rebooted it. This works for a lot of things. (more seriously......if this completely goes away now your battery terminals probably needed to be cleaned. Just removing nd replacing is enough to do this.)
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Sep 28, 2020 05:14
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PainterofCrap posted:That appears to be a '77 Datsun 210 McTinkerson posted:I think that is a 1970-1974 Toyota Corolla? Maybe a Celica? I don't think the Datsun rear windows ever had that shape. Could be a Mitsubishi. Certainly not a Mazda. DrChu posted:Its a Datsun B210 Thanks! The badge on the rear pillar seemed like a really Datsun thing to do. I found very similar looking pics but not the exact same one 
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Sep 28, 2020 08:21
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BlackMK4 posted:Anyone running a flex fuel sensor on a return style car? Where are you putting the sensor? I'm reading conflicting information, some people put it right before the fuel rail inlet, some people have it after the fuel pressure regulator on the return It likely won't really matter. At idle, most of the fuel will be going down the return line so the composition on both will be the same. At full load, the return line may take a little to have the same composition fuel in it as the supply since there won't be as much flow. You really want a fast response so you don't blow it up going from e85 to e10, I would think, but remember that there are dead-end sections of the fuel rails on most vehicles that won't see the same composition as the sensor for quite some time at idle. I really wish stock design fuel rails were set up to flush fuel straight through from one end to the other before going down the return.
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Sep 28, 2020 11:10
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I'm looking around for a lemons style beater and, inspired by the BOM series (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OkoCuKOSpeo) came across a C1/Aygo for $200. The catch is it's only running on 2 cylinders (out of 3 so not too bad). I never had to deal with this but am I right in thinking that as long as it's got compression on that cylinder, it should be relatively cheap and easy to fix? Likely just coil, plug or injector?
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Sep 28, 2020 11:28
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IOwnCalculus posted:You need to know the pinout of your sensor but assuming it's a four-wire, two of them will be dedicated to the heater. Sound about what I expected. Thank you.
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Sep 28, 2020 13:08
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mobby_6kl posted:I'm looking around for a lemons style beater and, inspired by the BOM series (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OkoCuKOSpeo) came across a C1/Aygo for $200. The catch is it's only running on 2 cylinders (out of 3 so not too bad). I never had to deal with this but am I right in thinking that as long as it's got compression on that cylinder, it should be relatively cheap and easy to fix? Likely just coil, plug or injector? That looks incredibly fun. Sorry I don't know the answer with the dead cylinder.
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Sep 28, 2020 15:28
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kastein posted:It likely won't really matter. Everything you said makes sense to me. I won't be running all the power so it should be flowing well enough through to measure post rail, especially since the ECU has an ethanol content hold feature. Here are some lovely pictures    Seems like it is basically all run with 6AN in a loop of: DW300 in tank pump -> Earls 10 micron filter -> Flyin Miata rail ( ID1050x injectors ) -> Fuelab FPR w/ fuel pressure sensor -> tank I guess the lovely part will be figuring out where I can put the sensor without having to redo a long run of AN line. e: Maybe I can move the Earls filter to the tank area and put the sensor in where it is now, there is presumably still a fuel sock since it is the stock tank BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 17:43 on Sep 28, 2020 |
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Sep 28, 2020 17:25
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Oh poo poo yours is run exactly how it should be, supply and return at opposite ends. So within seconds of you starting the engine (if not even sooner) and it idling you'll have the same thing in the rail as you do in the tank. Since the pump will naturally mix the fuel even if you managed to not mix it putting it in the tank, I'd say put the flex fuel sensor wherever you want, it's not going to matter at all on yours. Now, my vortec with stock rails... I'm pretty sure I can fit a pint of fuel in the dead-end sections of that drat thing, I'd want to put quite a delay in. It idled for several minutes on the fuel in the rails and vapor pressure alone even after pulling the fuel pump fuse a while ago 
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Sep 28, 2020 19:48
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kastein posted:Oh poo poo yours is run exactly how it should be, supply and return at opposite ends. So within seconds of you starting the engine (if not even sooner) and it idling you'll have the same thing in the rail as you do in the tank. Since the pump will naturally mix the fuel even if you managed to not mix it putting it in the tank, I'd say put the flex fuel sensor wherever you want, it's not going to matter at all on yours. Will do Is yours returnless? I believe it though, there is so much fuel between the tank and injectors with the length of lines, fuel filter, rail, etc. Good lord
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Sep 28, 2020 20:19
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Mine is supply and return, but it's got a lot of long dangly stubs that won't get any real turbulence or flow in any direction except through the injectors. The entire passenger side is dead ended and so are both ends of the driver side.
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Sep 28, 2020 21:23
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Huh, that is interesting. 
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Sep 29, 2020 01:18
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I recently bought my first ever new car, which also is my first ever car with a touch screen. Some of the people on enthusiast forums have complained about the screen scratching without much effort and advocated for screen protectors. Screen protectors are cheap enough, and given that I'd like to keep the car for 10+ years it doesn't seem like a terrible idea. My question: Is there any risk (especially with eventual removal) with screen protectors in cars? I've used them on phones before, but the screen in my car is a softer matte finish and I don't know how the adhesive works with that exactly. Or is worrying about scratches on a car screen just silly and this whole thing isn't worth it?
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Sep 29, 2020 02:11
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incogneato posted:Or is worrying about scratches on a car screen just silly and this whole thing isn't worth it? It's this one. Enjoy it. Don't put slip covers over seats and protectors over screens to protect that $2000 you'll get for it after driving it for 10 years. It's yours. You're the owner. Just don't trash it and it's fine.
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Sep 29, 2020 02:31
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Motronic posted:It's this one. Fair enough. It's not about resale value, though--I hope to drive this into the ground. Visible scratches would probably drive me nuts once I noticed them, though.
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Sep 29, 2020 03:12
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Then go ahead and slap a screen protector on while it's still virgin. Be prepared to replace them every 6-12 months as your fingernail scratches them up. ... or live with the fact that it's going to get scratched up a little. Just don't beat on it and it'll be fine and likely scratch free so long as you're just using your finger to touch it (and not your fingernails constantly, a key, etc). They're generally glass these days (if not, it'll still be pretty scratch resistant - my 5 year old touchscreen stereo looks almost new). It's not facing the same kind of environment that your phone is in your pocket with tons of dirt + keys + etc. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:18 on Sep 29, 2020 |
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Sep 29, 2020 03:16
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Tip from experience: don't put long items into your car that point at the screen that will slide forward when you brake. That'll scratch!
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Sep 29, 2020 03:33
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Would it be worth doing a thread on a double whammy mid-life crisis civic si and miata purchase and tinkering?
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Sep 29, 2020 04:30
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incogneato posted:Fair enough. It's not about resale value, though--I hope to drive this into the ground. Visible scratches would probably drive me nuts once I noticed them, though. If you've been warned that it scratches easily, absolutely put a screen protector on it. I do agree with Motronic to just enjoy things and don't cover them for some mythical resale value, a screen protector doesn't affect your enjoyment of the screen though. May as well cover it while it's perfect. In a few years when it's worn out get another it let it ride.
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Sep 29, 2020 04:43
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JohnnySavs posted:Would it be worth doing a thread on a double whammy mid-life crisis civic si and miata purchase and tinkering? 
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Sep 29, 2020 04:44
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This could maybe go in the car buying thread but this seems more trafficked and we’ve theoretically decided on a car—a VW Golf Alltrack as it fits a lot of our wants. My husband is 6’5, and we do plan to go for a test sit/drive, but he’s in deep into his dissertation and without much free time; so are there any tall golf/alltrack owners or experiences here? Assume the golf isn’t too far off for front space compared to the alltrack but would love to be proven wrong in the alltrack’s favor. Being able to limit my search to golfs versus the unicorn of manual sporty-ish practical hatch/wagon in the US would be ideal until we can properly sit in one. And how much does the panoramic roof cut into headroom? Would be nice to avoid another test drive just to answer that question, and my googling failed me.
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Sep 29, 2020 08:17
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Pontius Pilate posted:This could maybe go in the car buying thread but this seems more trafficked and we’ve theoretically decided on a car—a VW Golf Alltrack as it fits a lot of our wants. My husband is 6’5, and we do plan to go for a test sit/drive, but he’s in deep into his dissertation and without much free time; so are there any tall golf/alltrack owners or experiences here? Assume the golf isn’t too far off for front space compared to the alltrack but would love to be proven wrong in the alltrack’s favor. Being able to limit my search to golfs versus the unicorn of manual sporty-ish practical hatch/wagon in the US would be ideal until we can properly sit in one. And how much does the panoramic roof cut into headroom? Would be nice to avoid another test drive just to answer that question, and my googling failed me. I'm 6'2", with a SportWagon. No problems with head height. No idea about the sunroof, I typically avoid big holes in the roof! BTW, there's plenty of traffic in that thread, you should ask in there
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Sep 30, 2020 14:20
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How the gently caress does this happen: Literally looks like someone took a drill bit to the car and left a perfect hole six inches under the passenger side door. How do you even fix this on a wrapped car(how did I manage to put swirl marks in vinyl, jesus).
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Oct 1, 2020 02:25
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Bullet hole?
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Oct 1, 2020 04:26
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Good news. I figured out what the hole was. I was looking at the air intake area behind the door and noticed two more holes. Holy poo poo! Three bullet holes? Someone really loving hated my car? The side scoop has come off  So someone still hit and ran me, but, uh, now I know why I have three circular holes in the rear quarter panel
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Oct 1, 2020 04:43
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I was about to ask if you're missing a side skirt or something. It's a drilled hole clearly.
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Oct 1, 2020 05:07
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Anyone have recommendations for the longest lasting car battery for occasional use? I only drive every few weeks and I want my car to always start. I live in a nice climate and the car is garaged so temperature extremes are not a concern. I'd rather pay more and not worry about this for 7+ years, which is how long the OEM battery in my Toyota lasted.
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Oct 1, 2020 20:29
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