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Booley posted:Is his tape measure issue the adjustable end to account for pushing vs pulling? Has he been making a 38' long structure with nothing but a 12" ruler? How is he checking against an online ruler? Is it possible that everything else is accurate and his "accurate" ruler isn't? I know none of these answers, and like you am not sure I'm capable of handling the actual answers.
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Sep 30, 2020 01:20
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Y'all hush. I want to see the gas fired, steam powered, duct pipe, 4x4 board straightener in action.
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Sep 30, 2020 01:29
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angryrobots posted:Y'all hush. I want to see the gas fired, steam powered, duct pipe, 4x4 board straightener in action. I want to know how the steam is generated. I'm betting a handheld garment steamer or a homemade pressure cooker bomb.
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Sep 30, 2020 02:37
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Everything about those posts suggests that OP is not a handy person at all, and would greatly benefit from hiring a professional. I mean, that's what normal people do. Where are they located?
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Sep 30, 2020 02:48
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sharkytm posted:I want to know how the steam is generated. Voting repurposed BBQ smoker
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Sep 30, 2020 04:38
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PainterofCrap posted:Voting repurposed BBQ smoker My vote is wallpaper steamer.
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Sep 30, 2020 19:30
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sharkytm posted:I want to know how the steam is generated. Nah, those only make 213 degree steam, which isn't sufficient for him.
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Oct 1, 2020 01:57
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Nitrox posted:Item number 14 on that drawing is an adjustment valve. You can shut off water to the fixture with just those two. Close both hot and cold valve, pull the cartridge, then slowly start opening the hot side. If you have pressure, good. Close it back and and test the cold. If no water comes out, then your problem is upstream somewhere, maybe a redundant valve on other side of the wall or basement. Thank you, I got it working. The cold valve closed very easy, the hot was a bit harder to close all the way. Then I pulled the cartridge, opened both sides individually and there was pressure/flow from each one. Then re-inserted the cartridge and it works now, not sure what happened, maybe the hot was a bit seized and closing/reopening fixed it? 
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Oct 1, 2020 18:43
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Thank you, I got it working. Could have been debris in the valve body that was too large to fit through the diverter cartridge. By removing the cartridge and opening the stops you may have cleared it out. Pretty common thing that can happen if you have galvanized piping in your home.
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Oct 1, 2020 19:58
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Is it possible to buy an 1-1/4 drain stopper assembly that I can tighten down onto a hole cut into a 5gal bucket? Everything I found at the big box store was made to fit a tapered hole in an actual sink. I even bought one for a mobile home, but no amount of plumbers putty will make it work.
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Oct 1, 2020 21:26
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eddiewalker posted:Is it possible to buy an 1-1/4 drain stopper assembly that I can tighten down onto a hole cut into a 5gal bucket? Maybe a drain assembly for a vessel sink might work. You will need to find one with no overflow openings.
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Oct 1, 2020 21:53
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BubbaGrace posted:Maybe a drain assembly for a vessel sink might work. You will need to find one with no overflow openings. I was looking at something like this, if I could just swap the rubber bits for flat seals, but the guy wearing a vest had no patience for my nonsense. https://www.menards.com/main/p-1444437568609.htm
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Oct 1, 2020 22:03
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eddiewalker posted:I was looking at something like this, if I could just swap the rubber bits for flat seals, but the guy wearing a vest had no patience for my nonsense. You could do that along with a decent bead of silicone. Don't get this exact one though if you are needing the bucket to hold water.
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Oct 1, 2020 22:15
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BubbaGrace posted:You could do that along with a decent bead of silicone. Don't get this exact one though if you are needing the bucket to hold water. You're supposed to use silicone for drain fittings on plastic sinks instead of plumber's putty anyway.
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Oct 3, 2020 23:28
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I’ve been tasked with replacing a drain assembly with a plastic pop-up drain that came as a set with a faucet. The instructions mention needing silicone sealant as part of the tools but don’t say where to put it either on the faucet or with the drain. Silicone sealant is different from plumbers putty right?? I ask because my tub of plumbers putty says not for use for plastic and this drain is 100% plastic. Some videos I see people using putty, and some without so it’s confusing. Same with plumbers tape in regards to connecting the water lines to the faucet. What do you guys think? Putty or no putty?
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Oct 4, 2020 01:55
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Cross posting here because I wanted to get some opinion from folks experienced with plumbing and gas lines. Two of the three ports for the gas lighter in my wood burning fireplace in my new home appear to be corroded/rusted shut. I was planning on giving it a vigorous brushing with a wire brush, then taking a hack saw and gently sawing at the corroded bits to reopen the vents. Is this a good idea? Or should I just call a professional? The log lighter pipe extends beyond the brick, and I believe my only option to replace the lighter is to cut the pipe and thread it myself, something I don't feel comfortable doing myself.   ^This one looks and works fine, but it's the other two I'm worried about.  ^This is the one on the far left. It burns a little, but it's obviously clogged. The stuff that appears to be coated on peels off if I pick at it. Any idea what that is? I guess the previous home owners never cleaned it?  ^This one is so blocked up it won't even light. Can I just scrape away whatever that crusty thing is and reopen the hole with a hacksaw? I'm confused about why there would be rust. Where would the water come from? I got a sweeper to clean up the chimney, but they said the log lighter was out of their scope. Once I get this sorted out, I should be set for my first winter with a fireplace. 
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Oct 4, 2020 05:25
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If you don't know what you are doing you shouldn't be playing around with gas pipe in any fashion. That's my advice.
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Oct 4, 2020 07:01
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I would definitely hire someone to replace it, but I figured cleaning out ash build up was part of regular maintenance and thought I'd get some feedback. I noticed the newer log lighters seem to screw in. Should I just call someone out to replace and update the log lighter? Since there's a valve key (not pictures) to shut off the gas, my assumption was I would be fine so as long as I used a lock wrench to secure the pipe so it wouldn't rattle around all over the place. I just figured I'd ask people who have more experience than me before just hacking away at it. By all means, if this is a job I should hire out for, I will.
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Oct 4, 2020 14:06
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As long as you are able to shut off the gas locally, I would definitely run a file or hacksaw blade (lightly, and if they fit) through those slits, preferably with a shop--vac right there to catch any debris. Then light it and see if the flames look as they should. If they don't, you'll have to replace it anyway.
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Oct 4, 2020 16:07
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More general question for my own purposes: can any plumber work on natural gas pipes, of do you need to hire a special natural gas plumber?
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Oct 5, 2020 15:19
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Blakkout posted:More general question for my own purposes: can any plumber work on natural gas pipes, of do you need to hire a special natural gas plumber? Depends on the market. My experience is most plumbers won't and you want an HVAC specialist. There are definitely some that do. As far as I'm aware it is a different licensing system to be qualified for natural gas.
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Oct 5, 2020 16:25
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Anyone see any issue with using 1/2" pipe instead of 3/4" pipe for an expansion tank? I'm going to be tying it in on the supply side if the water heater, which is 3/4", and the tank itself has 3/4" threading. Unlike most installs I see I'm not going to be using the pipe to support the expansion tank. The flow to/from the expansion tank should be basically zero, so I don't see why 1/2" wouldn't be good enough. My reasons for 1/2" are as follows: -I have the fittings and pipe already -My water heater closet is tiny and I have to mount it above the tank and the flexibility of 1/2" pex over 3/4" pex would make it easier to install and replace down the line I've tried googling it and can't find any meaningful discussion about it or anything in the UPC.
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Oct 5, 2020 19:34
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PainterofCrap posted:As long as you are able to shut off the gas locally, I would definitely run a file or hacksaw blade (lightly, and if they fit) through those slits, preferably with a shop--vac right there to catch any debris. Thanks! I was quoted 195 to replace everything, so if the pipe falls apart, I'll just get the whole shebang replaced.
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Oct 5, 2020 20:27
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Blakkout posted:More general question for my own purposes: can any plumber work on natural gas pipes, of do you need to hire a special natural gas plumber? The plumbers we hired to do all the work in our house included plumbing in a new natural gas line for the water heater and boiler and replacing the flexible copper line feeding our gas stove. So some plumbers definitely do that, but I wouldn’t be surprised if your average 1-2 dude outfit wouldn’t want to touch it.
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Oct 5, 2020 21:27
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Check your state licensing board.
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Oct 5, 2020 22:48
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loving tree roots. That is all
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Oct 6, 2020 20:07
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KKKLIP ART posted:loving tree roots. That is all https://v.redd.it/u4tdjigrfkg51
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Oct 6, 2020 22:53
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So to expand, we had a leak that we knew was on our side of the water shutoff by the curb. Old galvanized service line (which we are budgeting to replace but oof) so I figured it was rusted through. Nah. Big fat tree roots. Turned a not too bad service call into a whole thing. Any of y’all want to come and help me re plumb my house? I’m a quick learner and an expert at fetching poo poo from the toolbox 
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Oct 6, 2020 23:44
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CarForumPoster posted:A toilet in one of my bathrooms is backing up when flushed. UPDATE I followed the thread's advice and took the toilet off but nothing seemed to be amiss. I put the 3 ft snake down the drain hole and it didnt feel like it hit anything. Pouring a couple gallons of water into the open top didnt noticeably back up. I then looked in my front yard where the septic tank is. Theres some ground absolutely saturated with water. When I dig it up I hit what feels like the corner of a plastic cap. Removing the grass leaves standing water. Note the very green grass around the hole...that grass was cut maybe 3 days ago and it hasn't rained much.  The window you see behind the hole in this picture is where the malfunctioning toilet is.  So is that poop water? What do you guys make of this? Am I well past call a plumber territory here? I generally fix everything myself (cars, machinery, appliances, etc.) but home ownership is newer to me.
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Oct 6, 2020 23:44
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CarForumPoster posted:So is that poop water? What do you guys make of this? Am I well past call a plumber territory here? I generally fix everything myself (cars, machinery, appliances, etc.) but home ownership is newer to me. If you have a septic tank and are having drainage issues, step one is going to be digging up the septic access lid(s) to see what is going on. I know you said it's just that toilet, but the wet ground near the tank (with no rain) is not a good sign for the entire septic system. Sometimes backups can happen with clogs at the septic tank inlet baffle, but that shouldn't result in a wet yard (just overflowing drains.) If you get the tank lid off and the water is at the top, you're going to need to call for a pump out. While they're doing that, they can see if water is running back from the field. If so, things start to get interesting.
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Oct 7, 2020 00:04
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B-Nasty posted:If you have a septic tank and are having drainage issues, step one is going to be digging up the septic access lid(s) to see what is going on. I How do I find these? Just dig up the run of sewer pipe? I'm kinda guessing I hit one right here which I'd think implies that it is in fact overflowing.
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Oct 7, 2020 01:59
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CarForumPoster posted:How do I find these? Just dig up the run of sewer pipe? I'm kinda guessing I hit one right here which I'd think implies that it is in fact overflowing. You call the honey wagon (pump truck) and they find them. The septic (settling) box is going to be full of water. That's how they function.
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Oct 7, 2020 17:00
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CarForumPoster posted:How do I find these? Just dig up the run of sewer pipe? I'm kinda guessing I hit one right here which I'd think implies that it is in fact overflowing. Start digging. Ideally, your septic lids would not have been covered by dirt, because you should be pumping it out on some kind of schedule (3-5 years), and it pisses off the pumper (i.e. you pay more) if they have to dig out your lids. To find them now, a pro would probably use a probe (https://www.amazon.com/PlumBest-P27005R3-60-Inch-Steel-Probing/dp/B0069QU92I) to find the edges of the tank, and use that to deduce where the lids typically would be (in the center, and possibly 2 near each end, longwise.) Do you have a general idea of where the tank is and its size? The top of the tank/lids shouldn't be more than a few inches down, so it won't take a ton of digging to find them.
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Oct 7, 2020 17:07
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It’s somewhere in or near the giant septic mound in my front yard lol...otherwise no I could follow the pipe easily enough, but seems like I need to get on with getting a pump truck.
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Oct 7, 2020 18:44
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CarForumPoster posted:It’s somewhere in or near the giant septic mound in my front yard lol...otherwise no No, it's almost definitely not. You have a two chamber settling tank. It's going to be close to the house. If you have explosed plumbing in your basement you could look for where the soil line leaves the house and start in that direction outside. It's also typically a spot where the grass greens up first in the spring if you happen to remember where that is. It's not because the box is leaking/fertilizing, it's because the box is very close to the surface and you're filling it with water that is warmer than the soil around it. So that grass gets started growing first due to it's septic-induced microclimate. I'd suggest you let the honey truck find it and dig the caps up. Then you know for the next time (in 4 or 5 years - which is about when you should be having that box cleaned regardless of whether you are having problems or not - it prevents problems).
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Oct 7, 2020 19:36
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CarForumPoster posted:It’s somewhere in or near the giant septic mound in my front yard lol...otherwise no I'm going to agree with Motronic then that you call a septic company out. In the meantime, you should do some reading about septic systems and maybe try to pull the original install permits for yours. I think it's worthwhile to be able to speak 'the language' when dealing with septic systems; repairs can be very costly and professional opinions can differ.
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Oct 7, 2020 20:13
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Motronic posted:No, it's almost definitely not. You have a two chamber settling tank. It's going to be close to the house. If you have explosed plumbing in your basement you could look for where the soil line leaves the house and start in that direction outside.
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Oct 7, 2020 20:29
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I installed my thermal expansion tank today. Rate my setup, thread. A few important notes: -The pipes coming out of the wall are PEX and cannot support the weight of a tank -The only accessible stud in the entire closet is on the left side -At least 18" of copper is required between the water heater connection and the PEX. Some believe this is because of heat from the water heater nipples, but others postulate it's because of the heat given off if the flu malfunctions and it starts dumping hot exhaust out the top of the water heater. I used the vertical copper pipe to raise everything up a bit to give me more room for safety in either case. -A vertical top-mount connection to the expansion tank is the preferred method of installation from the manufacturer -The cold water nipple of the water heater is only a few inches from the ball valve on the cold water stub out, so I had to go vertical with everything -Expansion tanks only last a few years, and will need to replaced as such, so the flexibility of the PEX, and my adjustable wall mount will allow me to fit any new make or model of tank as needed. -I have more/better hose clamps on the way. I only had 1 that fits and it holds it well enough until the new ones get here tomorrow -All threaded joints were doped, except the connection to the tank, which I used teflon tape on Overall my solution may look hodge podge, but it was very carefully planned by me to allow me maximum safety and flexibility if/when things fail in the future and need to be replaced. I'm also thinking of adding in a sheet metal "drip ramp" below the expansion tank so that if it ever leaks, I can aim the water into the water heater drip pan. SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 22:58 on Oct 9, 2020 |
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Oct 9, 2020 22:55
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You had me at a supported tank. I'll even overlook the crinkle copper.
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Oct 9, 2020 23:13
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Motronic posted:You had me at a supported tank. I'll even overlook the crinkle copper. I would have preferred to go with hard copper and a union, but it would have been really loving difficult to line everything up and get it soldered just right with the orientation of the threaded connector in that tiny confined space. Plus, while not ideal, the flex copper is to code. Here's a before picture to show you how close the stub out and the nipple are. You cant tell it easily, but the pex is actually bent to the right of the nipple so that there's even room for it. 
SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 23:24 on Oct 9, 2020 |
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Oct 9, 2020 23:22
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