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15 Subaru BRZ on Continental DWS06s. I just had to get a new pair of tires. My front tire decided to blow a bubble on the side. The old tires are from 2 years ago, there's probably ~30K miles on them. I had the new tires put on the back/drive wheels, the old tires put on front. In the week I've had them on, I've noticed that the car feels a bit floaty at highway speeds. It's nothing terrible, it's just driving differently, and as I've got 75K miles in that car, I just notice that it's not driving the same. It was really bad the first day, but I checked my tire pressures and they had been overinflated. That made it better, but didn't fix the problem completely. I took it into the shop just to get someone to make sure it didn't need an alignment and that the suspension was a-ok. All is well on that end. My mechanic thinks it's because the old tires in the front aren't gripping as well as the back and that's why it feels floaty. He's recommending buying new tires for the front as well. As a side note, he didn't sell me the ones I just put on, so I don't think he's fishing for a tire sale. Thoughts? I've still got significant mileage left on the old tires before they would need to be replaced.
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Oct 26, 2020 15:31
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I have a 2011 Honda CR-Z. It needs a few minor repairs, new hood, headlights, and maybe front bumper. Later, I'd like some more superfluous upgrades like better breaks, suspension, non metal body panels. Some day I'll need new tires. But what I think I really want is to figure out how to do this myself. This pandemic gives the opportunity for longer periods of car down time. But I've also seen plenty of diy car horror stories to know that just jumping in can lead to mistakes noticed years later. Is there a good source of knowledge on how to get started in diy car maintenance? Like what sort of tools should I actually use instead of just "making do."
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Oct 26, 2020 15:57
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regulargonzalez posted:My 2016 Mazda 3 has a setting that tells me the percentage life remaining for the oil. How much should I trust it? It wants me to go 12-15000 miles between oil changes. Granted almost all my driving is highway miles but even with full synthetic that seems a lot. Or am I just an old Gen Xer who is remembering the days of 3 months / 3000 miles My 2006 Saturn Ion had that too, and it usually popped up the change oil message anywhere from 9-10k. That was a whole lot of city (courier, even) driving. With highway driving it would pop around 12k. I ran Mobil 1 high mileage and an OEM AC Delco filter, but often went over by about 1k, sometimes even 2k. When I did the valve cover gasket at 170k, there was a little bit of varnish, but otherwise it looked pretty drat good, especially given it had 170k hard miles. I had the same year/model car before that one that I got with 60k and took to a bit over 200k before totaling it, and it still didn't lose more than a quart of oil between ~10k oil changes. The manual recommended conventional oil, and also recommended following what the computer said, or once a year, whichever came first. Didn't list any mileage specification at all. If you want to really see how it's doing, send a sample to Blackstone. You can get test kits here. AFewBricksShy posted:In the week I've had them on, I've noticed that the car feels a bit floaty at highway speeds. It's nothing terrible, it's just driving differently, and as I've got 75K miles in that car, I just notice that it's not driving the same. It was really bad the first day, but I checked my tire pressures and they had been overinflated. That made it better, but didn't fix the problem completely. What did you drop the pressure to? The pressure rating on the sidewall, or the rating on the sticker on the door jamb?
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Oct 26, 2020 16:03
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regulargonzalez posted:My 2016 Mazda 3 has a setting that tells me the percentage life remaining for the oil. How much should I trust it? It wants me to go 12-15000 miles between oil changes. Granted almost all my driving is highway miles but even with full synthetic that seems a lot. Or am I just an old Gen Xer who is remembering the days of 3 months / 3000 miles If you're really concerned, do a change at 7500 and send a sample to Blackstone Labs. Edit: gently caress, beaten On my two vehicles with oil life monitors so far ('13 CR-V, '18 Canyon) their estimates for "could go X miles further" have matched the percentage left every time, and this is with intervals that ended up being in the 8-10k range. I ran that CR-V for 170k miles following that monitor and never had a problem.
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Oct 26, 2020 16:04
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regulargonzalez posted:My 2016 Mazda 3 has a setting that tells me the percentage life remaining for the oil. How much should I trust it? It wants me to go 12-15000 miles between oil changes. Granted almost all my driving is highway miles but even with full synthetic that seems a lot. Or am I just an old Gen Xer who is remembering the days of 3 months / 3000 miles My old BMW E46 has an oil life display that's primarily based on how much fuel has been injected. That seems like a reasonable metric for the average passenger vehicle because it accounts for aggressive driving, stop and go, idling, and cold starts at least to some extent while being based entirely on information any EFI system already knows and thus requiring no new sensors. I get it though, that car also starts its counter at 15,000 miles and even though it has an enormous (nearly two gallon) sump for a relatively small 2.5L engine I have an issue feeling comfortable going beyond half that. I know modern synthetics are great but as someone who also grew up on "every 3000 miles" from his dad who worked at a gas station garage back in the '70s I still see it as oil changes are a lot cheaper than engines. My personal rule is to follow the manufacturer's "severe duty" schedule up to 7500 miles, if the recommended interval is longer than that I usually halve it. That said, if you really want to know for sure, get an oil analysis done. Blackstone Labs is pretty cheap and will ship you the sample container for free. Take a mid-stream sample during your next oil change and they can tell you for a fact how your oil is holding up and will give you recommendations along with the hard facts you can use to make your own informed decisions. e;f:b x 2 but that should emphasize the point, Blackstone is real hard data that you can be confident in rather than the combined gut feelings of a bunch of people on the internet.
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Oct 26, 2020 16:25
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STR posted:What did you drop the pressure to? The pressure rating on the sidewall, or the rating on the sticker on the door jamb? Door jam (35psi) AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 16:56 on Oct 26, 2020 |
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Oct 26, 2020 16:52
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I just bought a 2019 Mazda3 hatchback and would like to purchase and hardwire a dashcam. From what I've read this 4th generation is more complex compared to earlier models. I'd like to get the Viofo A119 V3 because it has very good reviews. Want to make sure I purchase the right components to properly hardwire. Does anyone know exactly what I'll need?
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Oct 28, 2020 15:30
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ADolan posted:I just bought a 2019 Mazda3 hatchback and would like to purchase and hardwire a dashcam. From what I've read this 4th generation is more complex compared to earlier models. If you're tapping directly into wires (and not the fusebox), the first link is all you need.
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Oct 28, 2020 16:47
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Krakkles posted:This kit will handle it. If you want to tap into your fusebox, something like this is going to make that easier. (Note, this second link is for a variety of sizes - I would verify the fuse type you have in your fusebox and just get the right one, not necessarily get this 12 pack with 4 different sizes.) Thanks this is very helpful. I have no idea if I need to tap directly into the fusebox to be honest.
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Oct 28, 2020 17:17
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ADolan posted:Thanks this is very helpful. I have no idea if I need to tap directly into the fusebox to be honest. that would be the "right" thing to do but who gives a poo poo. find the nearest 12v and get in there with your pocketknife and some electric tape
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Oct 28, 2020 18:39
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ADolan posted:Thanks this is very helpful. I have no idea if I need to tap directly into the fusebox to be honest. Don't do it with a pocket knife and electrical tape, regardless. Crimps are going to be the easiest/cheapest method, soldering or crimps are "good" methods, and vampire taps are bad, don't use those.
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Oct 28, 2020 19:01
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I guess this is where to post this, anyone had any experience or opinions on ticket fighting services like Off The Record? Got a speeding ticket in OR (I am from CA) and really all I am mostly concerned with is just not having to deal with OR's weird system for points and whatnot. No idea how effective any of those services are though.
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Oct 29, 2020 02:44
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Are traffic courts back in session yet? I got popped for 80 in a 55 in March and instead of it being 6 points (auto $600 or something ridiculous) and $400 in fines they just mailed in a plea bargain and I paid $200 for some parking tickets because in person court wasn't happening.
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Oct 29, 2020 02:50
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Cage posted:Are traffic courts back in session yet? I got popped for 80 in a 55 in March and instead of it being 6 points (auto $600 or something ridiculous) and $400 in fines they just mailed in a plea bargain and I paid $200 for some parking tickets because in person court wasn't happening. He wrote me for 82 in a 55 heh, and ya $300. I have a court date on the bottom so it seems like OR at least is holding traffic court. I have half a mind to go in person as there were two other cars going the same speed as me but with OR plates, I could possibly make it work to time my trip back south to line up, but I kind of would rather not. I also assume nothing productive comes from me actually going to court myself other than whatever catharsis I derive from it.
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Oct 29, 2020 03:00
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TheBacon posted:there were two other cars going the same speed as me but with OR plates Surely the judge has never heard that one before. And amazingly the vehicle code completely absolves you of speeding if any other cars on the road at the same speed that weren't ticketed at the same time. Hire a local (to that jurisdiction) attorney that does traffic tickets. They will get it knocked down a bit maybe. Ask them. They're gonna know the traffic court judge(s) that they deal with on a weekly basis and what is or isn't in the realm of possibilities. Be realistic about what you think of as a good outcome.
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Oct 29, 2020 03:18
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I've got a 2013 Toyota 86 (FR-S/ BRZ etc etc), and I recently got hit by someone in the parking lot on the front . I've got a split in the bumper and a dented fender. I'm kinda curious about just buying an aftermarket bumper with insurance money rather than just replacing it with an OEM part. What's a reputable place to get aftermarket Japanese parts? I'm from New Zealand and looking around I'll have to import the parts anyway since nobody has much stock around here and being a RHD country I can just order straight from Japan. Likewise with coilovers - what's the way to shop from overseas?
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Oct 29, 2020 05:46
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What causes Cupping on a tire's tread? My two driver side tires have that. The road I take to work every morning is undergoing some major reconstruction and it looks like instead of sand blasting the old lines off the road, they just used a skinny road mill to grind them off. It seems like there is 3/4" difference between the two surfaces, and the spots where that difference is, just happens to be where my driver side set of tires is driving over. I know of course, that rough roads that cause increased tire wear, but is that the sort of thing that can cause cupping as well?
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Oct 29, 2020 11:45
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Trambopaline posted:I've got a 2013 Toyota 86 (FR-S/ BRZ etc etc), and I recently got hit by someone in the parking lot on the front . I've got a split in the bumper and a dented fender. I'm kinda curious about just buying an aftermarket bumper with insurance money rather than just replacing it with an OEM part. What's a reputable place to get aftermarket Japanese parts? I'm from New Zealand and looking around I'll have to import the parts anyway since nobody has much stock around here and being a RHD country I can just order straight from Japan. Likewise with coilovers - what's the way to shop from overseas? All of my 86 knowledge is US Centric, but your best bet for regional info is to try the Aussie section of the FT86 forums, you might find something there. https://www.ft86club.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=20
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Oct 29, 2020 12:42
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wesleywillis posted:What causes Cupping on a tire's tread? Cupping is generally due to unbalanced tires.
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Oct 29, 2020 13:38
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Deteriorata posted:Cupping is generally due to unbalanced tires. Got ya. Haven't noticed any shaking, at any speed, but I did get a wheel bearing replaced on the driver side front.
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Oct 30, 2020 11:30
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wesleywillis posted:Got ya. Haven't noticed any shaking, at any speed, but I did get a wheel bearing replaced on the driver side front. How are your shocks? Bad suspension can do weird stuff to tires. I’ve had bad shocks bust a tire belt, and turn the tire tread from round to cupped polygon.
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Oct 30, 2020 14:18
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I'm in the process of resurrecting a 1987 F-150 4x4 with the 300 inline-6 and a 4-speed, which I believe is supposed to be the New Process 435 with the super-tall granny gear. It's been parked since 2006, and my stepdad is gifting it to me since he doesn't think he will be driving stick-shift anymore. Getting the engine back running wasn't terribly tough, a tune-up and replacing some terminally shot vacuum lines got it there, with the exception of a floating idle when the engine is cold. I figure that may be the idle air control valve on top of the throttle body. But I also figured that was good enough to attempt passing smog (yay California), but I took it in yesterday and didn't even make it onto the test dyno... the check-engine light wasn't flashing on and off when the key was turned. Evidently, the smog tech wants to see this before anything else. So I grabbed some bulbs from the parts store, drove the truck home, and took apart the dash to replace what was likely a burned out bulb. The instrument lights are held in with little twist-out sockets like this: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHLS6500?partTypeName=Instrument+Panel+Light+Bulb+Socket&keywordInput=instrument+lgiht+stocket and I discovered that not only was there no bulb present for the check engine light, there wasn't even a socket back there. Perhaps somebody had decided at some point that it would be easier to pass smog if the vehicle was incapable of throwing a CEL? Though stepdad says the instrument cluster has never been out of the truck, to his knowledge. I replaced both socket and bulb, but still no illumination of the CEL when I turn the key. This whole time, the one indicator light that was working was the battery/alternator light, which would flicker on and off whenever the idle was floating downward while the engine was cold. So, since I knew that one was good, I swapped both bulb and socket into the CEL spot, and still didn't get anything. Worse yet, when I swapped them back into the battery light spot, it no longer lit up either. Perhaps there's a short I need to track down? My friend who helped me get the engine running again suggested I should trace the ground wire and make sure all the grounds are clean, but I don't know where any of the ground spots are on this truck. I'm deathly afraid that it's a short in the flexible PCB that covers the back of the instrument cluster, I have no idea how I'd fix that. Bronco Graveyard only carries the PCBs for 1980-86, it looks like. Does anybody have experience repairing these instrument clusters without having to wholesale replace them?
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Oct 30, 2020 17:20
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I'm more surprised that an '87 would have a check engine light at all.
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Oct 30, 2020 17:28
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istewart posted:I'm in the process of resurrecting a 1987 F-150 4x4 I think you're on the right track for diagnostics. Keep tracing continuity and check that there is power from the connector and ground through the wiring harness. I replaced the same style of sockets on my truck, they crumbled when I tried to take them out, and I had to clean contact points on the PCB to get some to work. I just rub them with a pencil eraser, that gets through the buildup without damaging the contacts.
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Oct 30, 2020 17:41
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istewart posted:I'm in the process of resurrecting a 1987 F-150 4x4 with the 300 inline-6 and a 4-speed, which I believe is supposed to be the New Process 435 with the super-tall granny gear. If that's the top loader transmission it's the noisiest goddamn thing ever, but bulletproof. I suppose you have a divorced transfer case if you've got a 435, as I'm not aware of any of them that could have a transfer case bolted to them. FYI, as you may know the 300-6 is an industrial motor. Timing gears and all. Almost all of those airport baggage tugs have a 300-6 in them and they've been running for decades.
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Oct 30, 2020 17:45
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IOwnCalculus posted:I'm more surprised that an '87 would have a check engine light at all. If I understand correctly, this is the very first year that has OBD-I. At least on Fords.
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Oct 30, 2020 21:35
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Obd-I wasn't mandated until MY1988, and even then just for California, so it probably was just on certain models.
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Oct 30, 2020 22:02
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istewart posted:If I understand correctly, this is the very first year that has OBD-I. At least on Fords. Ford had them earlier than that on some things but not others. No idea when the would have slotted in with the F150/I-6, which means that could be a parts bin cluster and the MIL was never intended to be wired on that truck. I mean, possibly. I don't know where to actually pull that info for sure based on model/engine/year. And yeah ^^^^^^^ Charles - this is at a time close enough to being mandated in CA that they could have been making the clusters like this already and of course would use the same one whether it was present or not. It was a time when CA cars wer sometimes different than rest of country cars. I dunno who's old enough to remember the phrase "with solid state ignition and California emissions" on the price is right......
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Oct 30, 2020 22:06
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I tried looking at the Wikipedia article for Ford EEC but it doesn't list what models it was used on. There may still be a diagnostic connector on the firewall or on the fenders.
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Oct 30, 2020 22:16
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Might have already read this...https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1563635-1987-f-150-351-ho-obd1-diagnostic-connector-location.html Guy in it claims in 87 even though there is a CEL holder there was no bulb, but not real clear what motor if that makes a difference. And yeah, would be curious if it has the diagnostic connector.
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Oct 31, 2020 13:55
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C-Bangin' it 
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 paging cursedshitbox - he might be able to knowledge bomb us a bit on these?Colostomy Bag posted:Might have already read this...https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1563635-1987-f-150-351-ho-obd1-diagnostic-connector-location.html The 87 with a 351 would be carbureted, so no check engine light. Those were only on EFI models. And I'm finding some old greybeard posts online about the 87 not having a check engine light even on the EFI models (can't easily confirm, but I'm finding it across multiple forums), and only the 87 (though it should have an "emissions" light that only comes on if it's misfiring). There should be a test connector under the hood if it's a factory fuel injected engine . Apparently there is an "engine" light, but it only comes on for oil pressure and overheating? istewart posted:Worse yet, when I swapped them back into the battery light spot, it no longer lit up either. Get a new bulb in there. The bulb was ancient, and it's likely the vibration/shock from being moved around finally broke the filament. Your alternator won't charge until you have a working battery light, BTW. It MIGHT start charging if you give it a quick goose up to ~3000 RPM, but that's not a guarantee. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 15:06 on Oct 31, 2020 |
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Oct 31, 2020 14:59
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RE: old truck goon, is it possible that there was never a check engine light on the truck and your e-tester was someone fairly youngish who was all "MUST SEE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT OR NO TEST CAUSE BOOK SAY SO" Whereas some old dude might be all like "yeah I remember these things, they only came with a check engine light on engine X, but not engine Y and Engine Z only had them for the last 6 months of model year (whatever) lets look at the build date on the door jamb and see when this old girls came off the line". eddiewalker posted:How are your shocks? Bad suspension can do weird stuff to tires. I’ve had bad shocks bust a tire belt, and turn the tire tread from round to cupped polygon. They aren't *that* old. Car is an 09 Corolla with 227ish thousand km on the clock. I replaced the original struts, springs and associated bits at all four corners in about September 2017 with somewhere between 170-180K on it. wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 16:05 on Oct 31, 2020 |
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Oct 31, 2020 16:02
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A lot of pre-OBD cars had a "trouble" light that was similar to the Check Engine light, except it meant a serious problem rather than a parameter out of spec. Old cars would have gauges for charging, oil pressure, water temperature, and other parameters that most drivers ignored. Gradually those were replaced with idiot lights that came on when there was a problem - no charging, no oil pressure, overheating, etc. In many cars those were eventually combined into a single "engine problem" light, which meant there was a potentially catastrophic problem that needed immediate attention. So you may be seeing the older "huge problem" light.
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Oct 31, 2020 16:17
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87 bricknose? fyi your cluster has two engine lights. one is a monitor for low oil pressure/high coolant temp which is handled by a little board on the back of the cluster, the other is for engine management. My 90' diesel hooptie has both lights, EMS light goes nowhere. E2: hold the binnacle up to the sun and you'll be able to see the engine lamps. Same for the cluster, pull bulbs, shine a flashlight in the slot. E3: this assumes full instrumentation. 87 xlt clusters had a different gauge background. Not sure on the flex ribbon differences for 87' xl and xlt are swappable afaik. 300 with efi? that's eec-iv. it has on board diagnostics. there's a connector under the hood. you'll need to jumper two pins on it and the cel will flash out error codes for you. ECM is behind the plastic kick panel left of the parking brake. If its carburetored only the ignition system has a controller, and it is extremely primitive. https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/testing-eec-iv-equipped-engines/ https://www.repairconnector.com/products/Ford-EEC-IV-Test-Plug-Repair-Pigtail.html https://www.blueovaltech.com/tech/eecivcodes.php http://www.amopower.com/eec-iv.htm E: the cluster is fixable with a soldering iron. Traces do fail on the flexible pcb. Lightly sand your lamp sockets with fine grit paper. I rebuilt the cluster on mine in 2016 with success and in 2018/19 converted it to a real oil pressure sender instead of a switch. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 19:48 on Oct 31, 2020 |
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Oct 31, 2020 18:46
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It's actually quite the opposite - the smog tech has been in the business for 30+ years, and is supposed to be one of the best guys locally for getting older vehicle to pass. But he still asserts that a California truck from 1987 should have a functional CEL.Motronic posted:If that's the top loader transmission it's the noisiest goddamn thing ever, but bulletproof. I suppose you have a divorced transfer case if you've got a 435, as I'm not aware of any of them that could have a transfer case bolted to them. My mistake - according to the casting on the side of the transmission, looks like it's probably a Tremec T-170. Driver's side mounted shifter, too, and I think the 435 is supposed to be a top mounted shifter? I actually didn't know anything about the 300 I-6 before I started working on this truck, but I was pleasantly surprised to discover its reputation for durability. I'm hoping I can make this truck last all the way through graduate school and beyond. cursedshitbox posted:87 bricknose? So the binnacle has both amber CHECK ENGINE and red ENGINE lights. However, like I said, there was no bulb or socket physically present behind the space for the check engine light. The traces are there on the circuit board, though. It looks like I do have an EEC-IV diagnostic jack just kind of floating freely on the end of a wire bundle behind the airbox. So that is technically OBD-I, but I will need a Ford EEC specific scanner unless I do the trick with jumping the pins? I will also have to get some more spare bulbs when I get paid later in the week. Right now, I am working off a scanned copy of the Haynes manual. I need to get the factory manual reprint from Bishko, but it is over $100 and I need to wait for payday. The Haynes manual isn't helping me find any of the ground points on the chassis at all, and I want to locate those to be sure they're clean. (Spoiler alert: they probably aren't!) Here is the wiring manual from the Haynes as well as photos of the top and bottom of the plug that goes into the back of the instrument cluster. Hopefully these don't turn out too gigantor. Can anybody help me interpret the wiring diagram? Using a test light when the key is turned on, I get a flashing light when the left turn signal is going, and a steady current from what I assume is the pin for the battery light, but I can't get current from any of the other pins.    I didn't figure I'd get deep enough into this truck for it to warrant a project thread, but maybe it does after all!
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Nov 1, 2020 02:34
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Is your truck actually an original CA emissions truck, or a 49-state truck?
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Nov 1, 2020 02:48
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IOwnCalculus posted:Is your truck actually an original CA emissions truck, or a 49-state truck? Yes, it's a CA emissions truck. Sold new in CA, and the smog tech verified.
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Nov 1, 2020 02:53
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Welp, I just snapped the bleeder screw off the rear drum brake on my '96 Starlet (think Tercel/Corolla of the same vintage). Put some packing tape over it for now to try and minimise further contaminents getting in the lines. Assuming I can source a replacement unit (the whole rear driver's side drum assembly) economically from a wrecker, how involved of a job is swapping it? I do have one of those vaccuum bleeder kits, but I may just need to cough up for a tow and hand it off to a professional.
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Nov 1, 2020 03:57
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Drum brakes are a pain in the rear end but I'm sure you can get a replacement wheel cylinder for it, which is what the bleeder comes from. If not, I'd bet you could extract the remainder of that bleeder and replace it.
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Nov 1, 2020 04:03
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StormDrain posted:Drum brakes are a pain in the rear end but I'm sure you can get a replacement wheel cylinder for it, which is what the bleeder comes from. If not, I'd bet you could extract the remainder of that bleeder and replace it. Ah nice, I do see those available for AU$36 or so new, so hopefully wrecker won't be too dear. (I wouldn't mind paying for the new one, but waiting for it to get here isn't ideal). Assuming that air has entered my brake lines, what's the procedure for starting fresh?
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Nov 1, 2020 12:30
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