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breaks posted:I'm thinking about buying a Black Mountain Road+ frame and building it up myself. I do most of my own maintenance, I've replaced or installed cassettes, derailleurs, shifters, recabling jobs, poo poo like that, I'm not scared of learning how to do anything I don't know how to do, but having said that I'm fairly inexperienced overall. He sells the frames prepped and with a headset installed if desired which I will, and I'll get the fork cut by some shop locally, but otherwise is there anything that I should be worried about but am too dumb to be thinking of? Good choice. I did something similar with a Black Mountain MCD. Did the same as you and had the headset installed. Also needed my LBS to install the star nut in the steerer tube. But otherwise, mostly straightforward with all the online resources now available.
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Oct 29, 2020 06:52
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Thanks yall, that's encouraging to hear. If I end up going that route I'll report back with some pics when it's done!
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Oct 30, 2020 03:04
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Building a bike from the frame up is addicting, once you build your first one and it’s exactly what you want you’ll have a hard time compromising with a prebuilt bike again.
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Oct 30, 2020 03:11
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e.pilot posted:Building a bike from the frame up is addicting, once you build your first one and it’s exactly what you want you’ll have a hard time compromising with a prebuilt bike again.
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Oct 30, 2020 03:48
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CopperHound posted:if you go back and add up all your receipts.
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Oct 30, 2020 05:24
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The first bike I built from parts I made a spreadsheet of every penny that went into it and I still have it. Sometimes I look at it and flinch but it was mostly worth it...
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Oct 30, 2020 05:33
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I used to discard those but now I keep a current one for each bike, just in case insurance needs it one day 
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Oct 30, 2020 06:01
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CopperHound posted:Also, prebuilt bikes start looking cheap if you go back and add up all your receipts. spf3million posted:Don't do this
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Oct 30, 2020 06:30
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CopperHound posted:Also, prebuilt bikes start looking cheap if you go back and add up all your receipts. I've built three bikes now and I'm happy to say that I have no idea what I've spent on any of them.
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Oct 30, 2020 09:14
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kemikalkadet posted:I've built three bikes now and I'm happy to say that I have no idea what I've spent on any of them. 
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Oct 30, 2020 15:10
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I scored excellent deals on a pre-tariff R8000 groupset and a Cannondale Hi-Mod frameset. Even with those deals, sourcing all the little other bits at basically retail ate up a lot of my savings. I gained some build experience and have sweat equity in what i get to call a hi-mod bike, but I'm not sure it was worth it from a $ standpoint (if I were willing to just buy a non-hi-mod bike especially).
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Oct 30, 2020 15:59
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It really depends on what your plan for the bike is and how much you want to pick the parts that go on it. It also depends on what tools you already have, what spare parts you might have kicking around, and simply how much you enjoy putting a bike together. Personally I like weird builds (look at my folding bike for example) and absolutely love the hunt for parts and the tinkering once all the parts come in, the extra cost associated with building a bike from the frame up are more than worth it for me.
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Oct 30, 2020 16:54
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e.pilot posted:Building a bike from the frame up is addicting, once you build your first one and it’s exactly what you want you’ll have a hard time compromising with a prebuilt bike again. In HS (early 1970's) a friend and I has a business where we imported 531DB frames from Europe and put on Suntour/Shimano components and sold them. I even built the wheels (sew-ups) from scratch. My dad had a wholesale license so we could get components (Security-Seal was the distributor in NY) at decent prices. I recall paying about $125 for a decent frame (Knight). It was a lot of fun.
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Oct 30, 2020 17:20
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e.pilot posted:Personally I like weird builds (look at my folding bike for example) and absolutely love the hunt for parts and the tinkering once all the parts come in, the extra cost associated with building a bike from the frame up are more than worth it for me.
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Oct 30, 2020 23:20
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wait till y’all see this ratchet rear end TT bike I’m building lol
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Oct 31, 2020 02:31
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This morning I got my front shifter fully working. It had been unable to shift to the largest chainring, number 3. I took the cover off and found the little spring-moved "foot" part of the ratchet mechanism, which some youtube videos had shown can get sticky and fail to move properly. It was already moving, but some more INOX (I bombed it about a month ago) and a few movements up and down the range freed it up and now I can use all my gears. Then I went for a ride and on a long, straight, somewhat steep descent on good asphalt (i.e. ideal conditions) I got up to 40 km/h while still pedaling with resistance, so I think that's my top speed for now. Later on that ride I saw this bike:  Celebrating an avoided Day Zero by Martin Brummell, on Flickrand seriously thought about wading into the creek to pull out a too-small-for-me abandoned/stolen mountainbike lacking handlebars, front fork, and front wheel because the last outstanding maintenance item on my junkyard frankenbike is the badly worn #2 chainring. But instead, I'll ride out to the Tip Shop some weekend and find something less wet.
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Nov 1, 2020 07:38
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I have a slightly weird question that I can't seem to find the answer to, and apologies if it's been asked before. I recently took my first proper tumble on my bike and after patching it up, I noticed I can't backpedal in the two/three highest gears. I rarely use them so I might not have noticed until now (it's a gravel bike and I'm usually going quite slow). Is this indicative of a bent RD? Some answers on the internet seem to indicate it's pretty normal not to have enough chain tension to be able to backpedal in the highest gears. EDIT: I've properly indexed the RD and shifting seems pretty solid, otherwise. It's also a 2x system so not 1x related. To complicate matters I just upgraded my wheels, if that's of any relevance. Great Enoch fucked around with this message at 15:00 on Nov 3, 2020 |
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Nov 3, 2020 14:52
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Great Enoch posted:I have a slightly weird question that I can't seem to find the answer to, and apologies if it's been asked before. I recently took my first proper tumble on my bike and after patching it up, I noticed I can't backpedal in the two/three highest gears. I rarely use them so I might not have noticed until now (it's a gravel bike and I'm usually going quite slow). Is this indicative of a bent RD? Some answers on the internet seem to indicate it's pretty normal not to have enough chain tension to be able to backpedal in the highest gears. EDIT: I've properly indexed the RD and shifting seems pretty solid, otherwise. It's also a 2x system so not 1x related. Sounds like an RD issue but if you take the wheel out and go to spin the freewheel by hand is it super stiff? Could be your hub is tightened too much.
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Nov 3, 2020 15:40
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I checked the freewheel on your recommendation and then put it back in and realised when I didn't do up my QRs so tightly it affects the binding of the hub. 
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Nov 3, 2020 16:24
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Great Enoch posted:I checked the freewheel on your recommendation and then put it back in and realised when I didn't do up my QRs so tightly it affects the binding of the hub. I'm assuming you realize this, but just in case, this means your bearings need to be adjusted. Don't ride with a loose QR.
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Nov 3, 2020 17:07
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Fuuuuuucckkkk! So the cracked spider was not the sources of the noise in my pedal stroke. I put the new one on, cleaned everything in the BB and crankset and put it all back together. Total silence. Well, for the first hour of the ride. Then the small tick kicked in, and but the end of the ride it was back to the loud crack noise that happens in the same place on every pedal stroke. It makes me hate riding the gravel bike. So, I'm ripping the whole loving Praxis POS crankset and BB out, and putting in a thread together Wheels Mfg. BB and a GRX crankset. I'd get a Hambini BB86 1 piece, but those are $$$ and he is a huge rear end in a top hat. That being said, keep your eyes peeled for a cheap Praxis crankset on ebay.
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Nov 3, 2020 19:29
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bicievino posted:I'm assuming you realize this, but just in case, this means your bearings need to be adjusted. Don't ride with a loose QR. Okay, good to know. This is my first bearing cartridge hub (Hope Pro4s) so I don't really know how to adjust them. Yeah, I still have them on fairly tight, but I used to really crank down the QRs hard, which I understand is also not good practice? Great Enoch fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Nov 3, 2020 |
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Nov 3, 2020 21:03
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Great Enoch posted:Okay, good to know. This is my first bearing cartridge hub (Hope Pro4s) so I don't really know how to adjust them. Yeah, I still have them on fairly tight, but I used to really crank down the QRs hard, which I understand is also not good practice? Oh, that's super weird. I was assuming they were cup & cone bearings. I have hope RS4's, which I think are identical except for the rotor style. If that's the case, the bearings are not adjustable. You might be looking at replacing a bearing, or something else is the issue. I guess everyone has different definitions of "really hard" but I put my QRs as tight as I can without needing a tool to loosen them. For a correctly spaced frame and hub it shouldn't cause any binding in the bearing or freehub body.
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Nov 3, 2020 22:07
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I'm at my wit's end trying to stop the rear wheel of my road bike from popping tubes since I rebuilt it. It's always on the inside of the rim over a spoke hole. It's a double-walled rim and no spokes are poking out of the holes. I'm at the point where I've wrapped layers of electrical tape over the rim tape and out past the edges just to try and keep it from happening and still in under 10 minutes on the rollers the loving tube pops right against a spoke hole. What on earth do I need to do to just be able to ride my goddamn bicycle? Anyone thinking of posting "just go tubeless" is welcome to send me the cash for a new set of wheels.
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Nov 4, 2020 00:47
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Oldsrocket_27 posted:I'm at my wit's end trying to stop the rear wheel of my road bike from popping tubes since I rebuilt it. It's always on the inside of the rim over a spoke hole. It's a double-walled rim and no spokes are poking out of the holes. I'm at the point where I've wrapped layers of electrical tape over the rim tape and out past the edges just to try and keep it from happening and still in under 10 minutes on the rollers the loving tube pops right against a spoke hole. What on earth do I need to do to just be able to ride my goddamn bicycle? Are you using velox rim tape? If not, why not? All other rim tapes for tubed systems are inferior.
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Nov 4, 2020 01:45
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bicievino posted:Are you using velox rim tape? If not, why not? All other rim tapes for tubed systems are inferior. I ordered velox and got sent an off-brand fabric tape instead because it was out of stock. I assumed that at the point where I'm covering it in electrical tape that it wouldn't matter any more, but latest puncture doesn't inspire confidence there.
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Nov 4, 2020 02:06
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Can you post a picture of the puncture and the spot on the rim that caused it?
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Nov 4, 2020 02:16
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Tomorrow, probably. The punctures themselves are always tiny single holes. No snakebite, no obvious deformation around it, more like a 1mm split. I can double check to see if they're even in the same place on the tubes. E: Oddly enough, it was fine for 21 miles outdoors before the weather turned, but putting the bike on rollers has been a mess. I was hoping to be confident riding it this weekend since we're going to be back up in the 70s.
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Nov 4, 2020 02:28
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bicievino posted:Are you using velox rim tape? If not, why not? All other rim tapes for tubed systems are inferior.
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Nov 4, 2020 03:04
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CopperHound posted:Velox is too thick for some rims. Also, punching the valve hole is a pain if you end up with a roll that doesn't have it prepunched. Weird. Never run in to it being too thick in the narrow size. Or do you mean too thick under the hook for the bead to seat? I use a cheap old soldering iron to burn a hole through it for the valve stem. Same thing I use for tubeless tape.
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Nov 4, 2020 04:15
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Hey all, I discovered today a hairline crack on my tubeless Mavic Open Pro rim emanating from a spoke/nipple in about 1cm either direction along the rim. My intuition tells me I probably out not to ride the rim at all, but am wondering what you all think. I'm going to have the wheel rebuilt either way with a rim that is hopefully less of a pain in the rear end for tubeless setups (any recommendations?).
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Nov 4, 2020 18:13
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kgibson posted:Hey all, I discovered today a hairline crack on my tubeless Mavic Open Pro rim emanating from a spoke/nipple in about 1cm either direction along the rim. My intuition tells me I probably out not to ride the rim at all, but am wondering what you all think. I'm going to have the wheel rebuilt either way with a rim that is hopefully less of a pain in the rear end for tubeless setups (any recommendations?). DT rims are my go-to for high value, reasonably priced alu rims nowadays. Wide range of width and weight options, depending on your needs.
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Nov 4, 2020 18:19
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tylertfb posted:Can anybody here confirm that the thread on a FSA crank bolt is M18 x 1.0mm? Not content to risk my health by wrenching on my own bikes, I figure I'll up the ante by making my own replacement parts. The bolt I has all the threads stripped off and no longer holds the non-drive-side crank. Well I finally got around to it. M18x0.75mm threads. Turned the thread side on the lathe and then made the hex side on the CNC. I left the threads a little long, will trim them off if I have to, but I think the crank spindle is thru-all so it will just give me more thread engagement. 
tylertfb fucked around with this message at 19:25 on Nov 4, 2020 |
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Nov 4, 2020 19:09
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tylertfb posted:Well I finally got around to it. M18x0.75mm threads. Turned the thread side on the lathe and then made the hex side on the CNC. I left the threads a little long, will trim them off if I have to, but I think the crank spindle is thru-all so it will just give me more thread engagement. that’s dope
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Nov 4, 2020 19:28
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tylertfb posted:Well I finally got around to it. M18x0.75mm threads. Turned the thread side on the lathe and then made the hex side on the CNC. I left the threads a little long, will trim them off if I have to, but I think the crank spindle is thru-all so it will just give me more thread engagement. this is my dream
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Nov 4, 2020 23:17
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bicievino posted:Can you post a picture of the puncture and the spot on the rim that caused it? This is what punctures always look like:  This is the location of the puncture last night, about 2 o clock if the valve hole is noon:  This is where I punctured the time before, though that was before the electrical tape, about 10 o clock:  I haven't tried another repair yet. To be honest, a part of me just wants to pick up a cheapo set of secondhand rims on FB marketplace and say gently caress these wheels. Problems with them in one way or another have kept me from riding for months of prime weather despite my constant efforts to fix them and I'm really fed up. On the other hand, I don't know that a cheapo secondhand set of wheel won't just be a new set of problems. There are a couple basic 10spd rim brake clinchers for $150 or less (not including shipping) that I'm tempted by (and some beat up 90s specialized tri-spokes for $350 that I shouldn't buy, rad as they look).
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Nov 5, 2020 01:39
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tylertfb posted:Well I finally got around to it. M18x0.75mm threads. Turned the thread side on the lathe and then made the hex side on the CNC. I left the threads a little long, will trim them off if I have to, but I think the crank spindle is thru-all so it will just give me more thread engagement. Coward, why didn't you turn the hex ID on the lathe?
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Nov 5, 2020 01:39
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VelociBacon posted:Coward, why didn't you turn the hex ID on the lathe? I don't mess with that rotary broaching dark magic I would if we had the tools in the shop
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Nov 5, 2020 01:59
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Almost related: my left-side crank bolt keeps getting loose. I have to tighten it every day or my left pedal arm gets wobbly. Even loose, it's inside the crank arm, while the other side sticks out a few millimetres. Other than just tightening this thing daily until I get around to replacing one/all of the chainrings, is there something I can do to keep my bike from falling apart?
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Nov 5, 2020 02:18
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Oldsrocket_27 posted:This is what punctures always look like: man that is weird as gently caress.
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Nov 5, 2020 03:17
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