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armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

falz posted:

Ah yes, that would be nice if they were 'fed' from that way, didn't think about that. I also totally neglected to mention that I want to put in pendant lights to replace them, not new can lights.

There's two switches, so 3 way. One is visible next to the patio door. the other is at the opposite diagonal corner of kitchen. I think that 'opposite' one is where the actual power feed is. Honestly, I only really need one switch and would make due with that if I had to.

Are there any uh.. power wire metal detectors to try to trace the path? I have a small cheap handheld wand thing that I could try but I think it has to be pretty close to the wire.

I also don't fully know what's going on inside of the cans and didn't see a way to 'see' beyond the metal part, but if it can somehow pull out, maybe something would be visible with a phone camera. I'll have to muck with it more to see if the screw in light fixture portion, which does adjust up and down, can somehow pull out and dangle.

It seems to be a standard 'new construction' fixture, house is from mid 80s, so something in the ballpark of this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/202256649

You may be best to get an endoscope camera and drill a small hole to look around up there and see what you can see.

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falz
Jan 29, 2005

01100110 01100001 01101100 01111010
Whoa genius, going to pull trigger on this guy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071HYRPND/

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
There is one legal buried splice option. I forget the name but it's ul listed for exactly this as I recall. The wiring 2/0 zip line thread will know immediately. Better to re run, but it exists.

MrYenko
Jun 18, 2012

#2 isn't ALWAYS bad...

falz posted:

Whoa genius, going to pull trigger on this guy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071HYRPND/

I have two of those from different generic Chinese manufacturers. The optics are trash, but they’re SUPER handy for the money.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

H110Hawk posted:

There is one legal buried splice option. I forget the name but it's ul listed for exactly this as I recall. The wiring 2/0 zip line thread will know immediately. Better to re run, but it exists.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Tyco-Electronics-Romex-Splice-Kit-2-Wire-1-Clam-A22899-000/202204326

Tyco romex splice.

Elviscat
Jan 1, 2008

Well don't you know I'm caught in a trap?

falz posted:

Whoa genius, going to pull trigger on this guy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071HYRPND/

You can disassemble one of the old cans and lift the van out of the bracket, that should give you a nice big 6" hole to look around through

falz
Jan 29, 2005

01100110 01100001 01101100 01111010
This blows my mind too. Looks like I should probably check with local codes though.

If I hadn't just replaced the carpet upstairs I would've maybe been daring and dug in the floor, but I don't want to open that can of worms now.

For anyone not in the interior design thread, I initially proposed this issue here and theres some more infoz: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3819901&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=506#post509928552

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


It has been _0_ days since we last cursed the previous owner.


those sure are nice closet doors i just installed. my favorite thing about doors is how they operate in both the open and closed positions.


so why don't mine do that?!

That's as far as those doors currently open. The previous owner mounted the molding too far inset, so it all has to be torn off and readjusted for clearance reasons.

Deviant fucked around with this message at 20:24 on Nov 18, 2020

z0331
Oct 2, 2003

Holtby thy name
Managed to make it three years before a major house problem. :negative:

My wife was microwaving something yesterday and swore she felt a drop of water. Then today I was doing the same and felt something. Looked around and finally spotted a drop forming on the ceiling. Pushed up the ancient drop ceiling panels to see (among a crumbling plaster and random board palimpsest of previous iterations of the kitchen) a wetness with no clear source, but there's a bathroom right above it so obviously something is leaking.

I think whoever comes in is going to have to cut a lot of holes to get at the problem and fix it. The good, or bad news is that we were thinking of renovating the kitchen and that bathroom anyway. We weren't really prepared to do it now but if we have to tear a bunch of stuff down to fix things anyway...

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out


Noticed today that the sill in front of the fixed pane window in the middle of my bay window has a soft spot thats beginning to mold. How could water be getting here if it doesn't seem to be coming inside?

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


Condensation? And witchcraft.

Tezer
Jul 9, 2001

tetrapyloctomy posted:

Framing out walls to have a cavity suitable for insulation would be arduous and time-consuming; would encroach upon the opening to the garage door; and in general is considered a really bad idea in this type of stone construction where the walls regularly get damp, as it can cause accelerated freeze-thaw damage and destroy them.

You mentioned that your source for this information was an energy auditor. I think you should take another shot at this research - insulating stone/rubble foundations is not simple and not common, but it can be done. Your space is currently unheated - this means that the exterior layer of the stone you are concerned about already gets wet and freezes every winter - is it falling apart? If it isn't, insulating the interior isn't going to change that.

Here's a good case study on insulating a rubble foundation. The key is to make sure it's in good condition before you start (because it is going to become inaccessible) and then establish an excellent moisture barrier between the interior (heated) area and the foundation. You don't want the moisture content of either side of this equation to influence the other, as they will be operating at very different temperatures and conditions.

https://www.buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi-041-rubble-foundations

Very few contractors will have experience with this, as most people take the safe approach with rubble/stone foundations of just letting them be. There may be something special about your foundation that means this advice doesn't apply, if you figure it out let us know.

This work isn't cheap, and it isn't conducive to DIY, mostly because of the spray foam component of the assembly. There are no other insulation products that will work properly in this application.

tetrapyloctomy
Feb 18, 2003

Okay -- you talk WAY too fast.
Nap Ghost

I appreciate it. I thought it was weird too, since it's all above grade and therefore at least not getting saturated with groundwater, and while my usual masonry guy said a few years back that some of the stone could be in better shape, its not like it's crumbling anywhere. Maybe I conflated the energy assessor's recommendations for the finished spaces (which would be hard to moisture seal, guessing it would just be a shitton of closed cell foam in the wall cavities) with the garage recommendations. I'll look around and see what options are available.

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

Hed posted:

You can't leave a splice in the ceiling, but you could re-terminate / re-run your cable so that there are none aside from your new boxes. Depending on how it was wired and daisy-chained, you could get lucky and only have to tear out the drywall between those joist bays and where the lights continue down towards the sink.

Where's the switch for these lights?

Do you guys not pull cable in conduits over there? If there is one you could just add on another piece of conduit and rerun the cable to the box it's connected to.

Today's fun. Fan for circulating air under the floor in the basement stopped working. Popped open the fan controller and found the below. Pretty sure deformed and melty plastic around a transformer is bad, yes?

Clayton Bigsby fucked around with this message at 20:15 on Nov 19, 2020

Elviscat
Jan 1, 2008

Well don't you know I'm caught in a trap?

Clayton Bigsby posted:

Do you guys not pull cable in conduits over there? If there is one you could just add on another piece of conduit and rerun the cable to the box it's connected to.

Today's fun. Fan for circulating air under the floor in the basement stopped working. Popped open the fan controller and found the below. Pretty sure deformed and melty plastic around a transformer is bad, yes?



Only one municipality (Chicago) that I know of requires conduit for branch circuits, everywhere else is non metallic cable ("Romex")

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

Elviscat posted:

Only one municipality (Chicago) that I know of requires conduit for branch circuits, everywhere else is non metallic cable ("Romex")

Jesus christ you guys are a bunch of savages.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Clayton Bigsby posted:

Jesus christ you guys are a bunch of savages.

For our next trick, we will also make everything harder by only sending 120V down the wire. But at least there aren't ring mains.

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

H110Hawk posted:

For our next trick, we will also make everything harder by only sending 120V down the wire. But at least there aren't ring mains.

Ring mains, positive ground cars, Lucas electronics, the list goes on :D

But seriously, conduits are great. For instance when I switched to LED lights I had a couple of dimmers that caused some problems, and needed to switch them out. The new ones required both a positive and negative wire. The existing one just had two wires, the positive in, and the positive out to the light. Took a couple of minutes to just throw another wire in there. Didn't even have to rip out any drywall!

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.

Clayton Bigsby posted:

Jesus christ you guys are a bunch of savages.

lol nobody tell him that we staple the romex to the framing studs.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Clayton Bigsby posted:

Ring mains, positive ground cars, Lucas electronics, the list goes on :D

But seriously, conduits are great. For instance when I switched to LED lights I had a couple of dimmers that caused some problems, and needed to switch them out. The new ones required both a positive and negative wire. The existing one just had two wires, the positive in, and the positive out to the light. Took a couple of minutes to just throw another wire in there. Didn't even have to rip out any drywall!

Yes, we understand what conduit allows you to do. It's not disallowed from use, and is even required in some situations outside of Chicago. But it's simply not used much because of the difficulty and cost of building for very little payback. Even in safety, because of how we wire and what devices are used as a whole and the codes enforced are predicated on each other.

Running conduit in walls of an average new construction house would cost THOUSANDS of dollars more. Way too much expense for "somebody wants to add an extra wire between two existing boxes that are still the right size 20 years from now" convenience.

z0331
Oct 2, 2003

Holtby thy name

z0331 posted:

Managed to make it three years before a major house problem. :negative:

My wife was microwaving something yesterday and swore she felt a drop of water. Then today I was doing the same and felt something. Looked around and finally spotted a drop forming on the ceiling. Pushed up the ancient drop ceiling panels to see (among a crumbling plaster and random board palimpsest of previous iterations of the kitchen) a wetness with no clear source, but there's a bathroom right above it so obviously something is leaking.

I think whoever comes in is going to have to cut a lot of holes to get at the problem and fix it. The good, or bad news is that we were thinking of renovating the kitchen and that bathroom anyway. We weren't really prepared to do it now but if we have to tear a bunch of stuff down to fix things anyway...

On the plus side, the plumber traced the issue to a failed wax ring on our upstairs toilet that was leaking water into the subfloor and then into the kitchen. The piping is fine and actually PVC. The toilet is shut off, the leak is stopped, and the wetness will dry.

The down side, we have to live with this until we figure out what to do with everything:


"Hey, our ceiling is a crumbling, disgusting mess. Let's throw a drop ceiling over it and forget it exists."

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

Motronic posted:

Yes, we understand what conduit allows you to do. It's not disallowed from use, and is even required in some situations outside of Chicago. But it's simply not used much because of the difficulty and cost of building for very little payback. Even in safety, because of how we wire and what devices are used as a whole and the codes enforced are predicated on each other.

Running conduit in walls of an average new construction house would cost THOUSANDS of dollars more. Way too much expense for "somebody wants to add an extra wire between two existing boxes that are still the right size 20 years from now" convenience.

Well, there's also the option of rewiring the house decades later without tearing into things. We just replaced all the electrical in our house that was built in 1936 and didn't have to rip anything open. Surprised it'd be that expensive compared to just stapling cable to the studs. When I built our shed I just bought "preloaded" conduit so I didn't even have to pull wires through it. Maybe we're talking about different kinds? The old school stuff here was rigid metal conduit which I can imagine took some effort to put in properly, but the modern stuff is just a flexible plastic hose kind of thing that takes about as long to put in place as it would running a cable.

Here's an example I found:


You generally let the conduit "float" a bit, and the wires inside aren't crammed into the space so they can move around as well. The idea being that it's very unlikely you'd manage to actually pierce one even if you drove a nail right into it.

B-Nasty
May 25, 2005

Gee, if only we made our walls out of something that was easily patched, very inexpensive, and easy to cut/remove.

The amount of effort and additional cost people suggest to avoid fixing some drywall is insane.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

B-Nasty posted:

Gee, if only we made our walls out of something that was easily patched, very inexpensive, and easy to cut/remove.

The amount of effort and additional cost people suggest to avoid fixing some drywall is insane.

Yeah, pretty much this.

Enos Cabell
Nov 3, 2004


z0331 posted:

On the plus side, the plumber traced the issue to a failed wax ring on our upstairs toilet that was leaking water into the subfloor and then into the kitchen. The piping is fine and actually PVC. The toilet is shut off, the leak is stopped, and the wetness will dry.

This happened in our master bath, which we discovered after finding a mushroom growing out from underneath the back of our toilet. Pulled it up to find a huge fungus colony growing around the wax ring and down into the pipe. Pulled out a huge, foot long solid mass of fungus that had about 15 or so mushroom caps around the ring. Ended up having to replace a section of the subfloor and a bit of the drywall from the garage ceiling beneath it, but could have been much worse.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

B-Nasty posted:

Gee, if only we made our walls out of something that was easily patched, very inexpensive, and easy to cut/remove.

The amount of effort and additional cost people suggest to avoid fixing some drywall is insane.

Yeah but once every 50 to 100 years I might need to patch drywall. And gently caress that.

Conduit makes sense for active cables (think ethernet, hdmi) but anything just pulling juice from point a to b? Eh. The odds of the conduit going where you need it to go when you are making changes is pretty low, and we're past a lot of the suuuuuuper dumb stuff these days. (knob and tube)

Hed
Mar 31, 2004

Fun Shoe

Clayton Bigsby posted:

Ring mains, positive ground cars, Lucas electronics, the list goes on :D

But seriously, conduits are great. For instance when I switched to LED lights I had a couple of dimmers that caused some problems, and needed to switch them out. The new ones required both a positive and negative wire. The existing one just had two wires, the positive in, and the positive out to the light. Took a couple of minutes to just throw another wire in there. Didn't even have to rip out any drywall!

In our case you'd generally not be able to run a single new wire either, because even though it would obviously work the individual conductors aren't certified, the NM package is itself.

z0331
Oct 2, 2003

Holtby thy name

Enos Cabell posted:

This happened in our master bath, which we discovered after finding a mushroom growing out from underneath the back of our toilet. Pulled it up to find a huge fungus colony growing around the wax ring and down into the pipe. Pulled out a huge, foot long solid mass of fungus that had about 15 or so mushroom caps around the ring. Ended up having to replace a section of the subfloor and a bit of the drywall from the garage ceiling beneath it, but could have been much worse.

:barf: Thank god ours was just some mold.

We're starting to get estimates for gutting/renovating the bathroom and kitchen. We were planning it down the road anyway so at least now there's the added incentive of having more than one working toilet in the house and not a giant gross hole in the kitchen.

Enos Cabell
Nov 3, 2004


z0331 posted:

:barf: Thank god ours was just some mold.

It was equal parts horrifying and hilarious to me, my wife was traumatized and wouldn't let me post pics to FB. You guys are just lucky I wasn't able to find the pics on my phone.

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


There were mushrooms growing behind my mother-in-law's washer (laundry) when the kitchen-bathroom-shower main line was clogged up so bad the kitchen sink was pooling.
No, we didn't dig into the floor. That bathroom is awful and no one wants to spend any money on it.

z0331
Oct 2, 2003

Holtby thy name
At some point(s), I think some folks had mentioned some good bathroom exhaust fans and water-efficient toilets. Does anyone have those handy or recall what they were?

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

z0331 posted:

At some point(s), I think some folks had mentioned some good bathroom exhaust fans and water-efficient toilets. Does anyone have those handy or recall what they were?

Panasonic makes the good fans. American standard makes a shitter. (I don't have opinions on them other than round bowls are a crime against humanity and you want them lower not higher/"comfort")

Smugworth
Apr 18, 2003

H110Hawk posted:

round bowls are a crime against humanity

Ain't that the truth. Didn't even know they existed until we bought a house with three of them, and drat do they suck poo poo (figuratively and literally).

Smugworth
Apr 18, 2003

z0331 you should probably get the egg toilet

Swiss Madison 0.8/1.28 GPF Plaisir Wall Hung Dual Flush Elongated Toilet Bowl in White



Eggman approves


On the other hand, Steve is praying to his God/gods to fix his toilet leak, probably not related to the egg though

z0331
Oct 2, 2003

Holtby thy name

Smugworth posted:

z0331 you should probably get the egg toilet




Best part of this is seeing the flush buttons as eyes.

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik


All better now. Once the caulk dries I’ll hit it with paint.

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.

devmd01 posted:



All better now. Once the caulk dries I’ll hit it with paint.

I think your in-use box is upside-down.

Cable port should be on the bottom.

Clayton Bigsby
Apr 17, 2005

DaveSauce posted:

I think your in-use box is upside-down.

Cable port should be on the bottom.

I think it's mounted in the eaves.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

devmd01 posted:



All better now. Once the caulk dries I’ll hit it with paint.

Complete with the requisite "gently caress it" bent nail.

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DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.

Clayton Bigsby posted:

I think it's mounted in the eaves.

Ah, I see it now!

I was staring at it trying to figure out if I missed something, or if maybe the picture was upside-down. Didn't consider that orientation...

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