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Yeah, that's a sticky brake, if it was the bearing you'd feel it weeble-wobbling while driving. (Been there, done that, with the bearing making GBS threads itself.)
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Nov 24, 2020 18:04
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Great , thank you all . I was hoping to get the wheel off today to take some pictures , but it may be tomorrow .
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Nov 25, 2020 14:26
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Chainclaw posted:are car dealers buying used cars for OK prices right now? Pop it into an online estimator for Carvana and the like and see what you get. As a counterpoint to the "what is a parked car really costing you", if you truly don't need a car, it's always better to sell it ASAP. It'll still depreciate (slowly) as it ages. Selling cars that have been sitting is also fun because suddenly poo poo is broken from age that you only noticed because you tried to drive it for the first time in months.
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Nov 25, 2020 15:51
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How do you test a brake booster? It's the last item in my brake system besides the master cylinder that hasn't been replaced and the pedal is so squishy when the car is on, but it's been bled so well and so many times that it's stiff as hell when the engine's off. The pedal feels different at different RPM's, and I can't find any other explanations Maybe a massive vacuum leak nearby? But I haven't been able to track one down
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Nov 25, 2020 23:08
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The Door Frame posted:How do you test a brake booster? It's the last item in my brake system besides the master cylinder that hasn't been replaced and the pedal is so squishy when the car is on, but it's been bled so well and so many times that it's stiff as hell when the engine's off. The pedal feels different at different RPM's, and I can't find any other explanations Spray carb cleaner around it while running. If it's got a massive vacuum leak it will change your idle. Also, dunno what vehicle you're talking about, but on a lot of them there is an external vacuum check valve that could be causing issues like this.
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Nov 25, 2020 23:13
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Motronic posted:Spray carb cleaner around it while running. If it's got a massive vacuum leak it will change your idle. 93 Capri, so probably the same part as the same generation mazda 323 and miata
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Nov 25, 2020 23:45
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The Door Frame posted:93 Capri, so probably the same part as the same generation mazda 323 and miata Oh yeah, so nice and basic. From the ebay auction phots I found under the hood of one (lol) and the parts diagrams I can find it doesn't look like there is an external check valve. Try the carb cleaner thing. You can even use an unlit (UNLIT, this is important) propane torch. Anything that can get sucking into a potential vacuum leak that will chance the air/fuel mixture so you can hear the idle change. This could be the booster itself or, from what I've seen in the pic I came up with, the gigantically long vacuum line that goes from the booster all the way to the other side of the car and then halfway back again to the intake manifold. I would expect a leak of this type to effect idle anyway, and probably low RPM drivability but we're talking about a 1993 so there are a lot of ways to go here and expectations that may not be accurate. But I'm looking at a very long rubber hose that passes over a hot motor and is nearly 30 years old. So yeah, that could totally be a part of this. E: Maybe i'm wrong about that vacuum line routing. The pic is so low res. I have the line marked in red as far as I now think I'm correct. Follow that thing. Make sure it's not leaking:  I thought it continued to the left and came back right again, but that looks like the throttle cable. Motronic fucked around with this message at 00:06 on Nov 26, 2020 |
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Nov 26, 2020 00:03
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Motronic posted:Oh yeah, so nice and basic. From the ebay auction phots I found under the hood of one (lol) and the parts diagrams I can find it doesn't look like there is an external check valve. Try the carb cleaner thing. You can even use an unlit (UNLIT, this is important) propane torch. Anything that can get sucking into a potential vacuum leak that will chance the air/fuel mixture so you can hear the idle change. Yeah, the highest res one I can find is the turbo, so a little different layout, but a nice clear shot of the single vacuum line that's attached to a hardline. IIRC, that hardline then attaches to a long rubber hose that goes around the airbox, over the intake, under the dizzy, and then somewhere into the rats' nest on the back of the manifold 
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Nov 26, 2020 00:27
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Make sure you check under the dash too. Especially if you hear weird whooshing noises under the dash when pressing or releasing the brake pedal. The seals on the pushrod from the pedal to the booster go bad occasionally, they're what spurred my brake system upgrade from single diaphragm booster to dual on my first Comanche. It was so bad it would actually stall if I hit the brakes just right.
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Nov 26, 2020 15:01
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Hey everyone, trying to get to the bottom of some exhaust smoke. I've got 2000 Tundra with the 4.7l V8 with ~152k miles on it. I love it to death, but whenever it's been sitting overnight in the cold I get gray smoke on startup that lasts a minute or two until the engine warms up (goes away completely after that). It's significantly more than just what I'd see from condensation, and it lingers in the air for a bit, but it's not like a smoke generator or anything. It runs perfectly otherwise, and warm weather starts or subsequent starts during the day show no smoke at all. It did this last winter as well but I either noticed it less or just was not bothered by it. I had it into the shop recently to replace some worn out coolant hoses, and asked them to check for something like a headgasket problem, which they think is unlikely as they (and I) observed none of the telltale signs in either oil or coolant. Further, it doesn't appear to be leaking any appreciable amount of oil or coolant (this is driving me nuts so I check it every fill up, ~300 miles or so). The only other issue the truck has is a slight steering rack leak (needs to be topped off every six-eight months or so). I'm stumped on it. With no other major signs of distress, my shop recommended that I just not worry about it, but I'm apparently incapable of that. For a 20 year old truck is this something I should take their word on and just not give a poo poo, or is there something else I should be doing? I know these engines are renowned for their longevity and I do love the truck so I'd love to get it up to 250k if possible and don't mind throwing a little cash at it now to prevent a costlier repair. e: cold temps defined as getting below freezing over night
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Nov 27, 2020 19:44
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Valve guide seals. Ignore it. Not worth fixing until it's actually a smoke machine/you are burning a significant amount of oil. (because this is heads off and rebuilt level of effort)
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Nov 27, 2020 20:13
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Motronic posted:Valve guide seals. Ignore it. Not worth fixing until it's actually a smoke machine/you are burning a significant amount of oil. Yep, I agree with this 100%. It's the same issue with the International.
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Nov 27, 2020 21:31
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Thirded. Might notice some wisps of smoke if you spend some time at high vacuum (i.e. engine braking). Unless it's burning so much that it fouls plugs I wouldn't sweat it. If you're really picky maybe try a high mileage or slightly thicker oil but not much is likely to change.
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Nov 27, 2020 22:42
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It might wear your cat out faster but yeah, I say let it go till it is bad enough to warrant fixing. If you are careful you can do them by: - turning the crank to timing belt service position - removing the entire timing drive system - removing the cams - removing the plugs one at a time - turning that cylinder to just before TDC - feeding in a bunch of rope - not twine - and turning to TDC to compress the rope against the valves and prevent them from being bent when you knock the valve keepers loose. - knock keepers loose, swap valve seal, put spring/retainer/keepers back on, repeat 3x - turn crank back a little, remove rope, move to next cylinder, repeat 7x - turn crank forward to timing belt service position, reinstall cams, retime engine - reassemble all removed parts At least this way you don't need to do the head gaskets, intake gaskets, header gaskets, and touch all the header bolts or studs that are liable to snap off and make you miserable. It is still a buttload of work to fix a minor smoking issue and I would leave it alone. Oh, the amount you turn the crank before feeding the rope in is really up to gut feeling. Too little, and too much rope, and you risk it snarling and having to pull the heads anyways. Too little and there may not be enough rope in there to absorb all the energy from thwacking the keepers loose and you risk possibly bending a valve a little.
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Nov 27, 2020 23:03
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While the insanity Ken posted is absolutely TECHNICALLY possible, I don't hate myself so the only time I rope valves in cylinders like that is when I need to deal with like....ONE of them (because one of the rovers broke another loving valve spring). If you're doing 8 cylinders, especially a loving 32 valve one........yeah. Just no. You aren't saving any time. Ken, you're still one of my favorites. But you are also insane.
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Nov 27, 2020 23:16
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Thanks everyone, I'd obviously rather it not be doing it at all but good to know I can let it be till it's a real issue.
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Nov 28, 2020 00:00
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DeesGrandpa posted:Thanks everyone, I'd obviously rather it not be doing it at all but good to know I can let it be till it's a real issue. Yeah, seriously don't worry about it. I can't count the number of years and miles I have on vehicles with that exact thing going on. It's annoying because it's not 100% right, but it's barely detrimental. (until it gets bad - and that usually takes a looooong time)
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Nov 28, 2020 00:21
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DeesGrandpa posted:Hey everyone, trying to get to the bottom of some exhaust smoke. Fourth-ing. My last owned DD (before I started on 25+ -years of company cars) was a mint '86 Firebird with a V6 & 5-speed. (finding an unmolested Firebird in 1994 was a grail search. Holy poo poo but those cars were cut up & abused. I looked at about fifteen of them before finding this one: Woman's first new car...met the right guy, and >wham< first pregnancy is triplets, we need a mini-van STAT. It had precisely this issue: big blue cloud on first start; nothing for the rest of the day. I stopped worrying about it when it didn't consume half a quart of oil in 2000-miles..but man, that morning blue fog was hard to ignore. Valve seals leaking down overnight. Leads to an amusing anecdote: Last month, I scored, for my wife, a 2013 Kia Soul. The car had not been driven for seven months. On the way home from West Philadelphia, I had to pour on the coals to merge...and produced a stunningly large cloud of oil smoke that no doubt pissed off everyone behind me on the eastbound Schuylkill Expressway. Somewhat concerned, I repeated the acceleration maneuver three times more...but no cloud. Nothing since. Oil level remains good. Guess it was an Italian tune-up. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 01:58 on Nov 28, 2020 |
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Nov 28, 2020 01:51
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Motronic posted:While the insanity Ken posted is absolutely TECHNICALLY possible, I don't hate myself so the only time I rope valves in cylinders like that is when I need to deal with like....ONE of them (because one of the rovers broke another loving valve spring). Yeah, only reason I mentioned it is I don't know if he has worse or better rust issues than me. Any worse and I'd be contemplating this just to avoid touching the header studs 
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Nov 28, 2020 02:03
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PainterofCrap posted:pissed off everyone behind me on the eastbound Schuylkill Expressway. Counterpoint: anyone on the Schuylkill was already pissed off. (also, that's an amazing Firebird find)
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Nov 28, 2020 02:04
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One more data point on it, im out ice fishing, its freeze your beer before you're finished cold, and I noticed visible exhaust when I accelerated from the stop at the exit. Already warmed up, been driving for an hour, and had been doing some engine braking down the steep hill from the Eisenhower tunnel. That jives w the valve guide seals yeah?
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Nov 28, 2020 15:38
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Although its probably not going to happen, another way to keep the valves from dropping is to use compressed air. Leak down tester kit, small compressor and fill the cylinder up with air. Obviously when the valves are closed. Ninja edit: Which I guess they would be if it was an OHC engine and the cam shafts were removed, you know, to facilitate removal of the valve springs etc..
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Nov 28, 2020 17:28
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How far can you extend 12v/lighter socket power? (IE can I move my 12v fridge closer to the rear of the van than the ~6ft cord it came with allows)
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Nov 28, 2020 17:36
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DeesGrandpa posted:One more data point on it, im out ice fishing, its freeze your beer before you're finished cold, and I noticed visible exhaust when I accelerated from the stop at the exit. Already warmed up, been driving for an hour, and had been doing some engine braking down the steep hill from the Eisenhower tunnel. That jives w the valve guide seals yeah? You do realize that one of the byproducts of combustion is water right? When it's cold out there will be steam coming out of your exhaust no matter what condition your vehicle is in.
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Nov 28, 2020 17:39
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Motronic posted:You do realize that one of the byproducts of combustion is water right? When it's cold out there will be steam coming out of your exhaust no matter what condition your vehicle is in. Yeah just haven't noticed much of it when already warned up, though I guess I also don't usually obsessively look for it and drive at super low temp
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Nov 28, 2020 17:48
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Motronic posted:While the insanity Ken posted is absolutely TECHNICALLY possible, I don't hate myself so the only time I rope valves in cylinders like that is when I need to deal with like....ONE of them (because one of the rovers broke another loving valve spring). This reminds me of reading about a guy who timeserted his Northstar while in the car. It involved yanking the heads (which is impossible on some models) and using a right-angle drill with the tap. The whole success of the project hinged on having the timing chain pulled by the hood with a bungee cord so it wouldn't fall off the crank gear and allow the cams to be timed properly on re-assembly. Also swear I saw a method like that with a Bimmer as well.
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Nov 28, 2020 18:03
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C-Bangin' it 
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I'm looking at another candidate project car with possible head gasket issues, according to the seller. Obviously taking the head is a pain in the rear end, but it could be worth to DIY if I get the price is low enough. But I'm concerned that it's been overheating or the coolant leaking into the oil, it could have more serious issues not worth dealing with. Is there there some kind of due diligence I could do to see if the engine is completely FUBAR? I haven't called the seller yet but I assume I can't trust anything I won't be able to verify myself.
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Nov 28, 2020 18:03
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mobby_6kl posted:I'm looking at another candidate project car with possible head gasket issues, according to the seller. Obviously taking the head is a pain in the rear end, but it could be worth to DIY if I get the price is low enough. But I'm concerned that it's been overheating or the coolant leaking into the oil, it could have more serious issues not worth dealing with. This obviously depends a lot on the exact engine. But in general, no, you can't test the block without pulling the heads and having some rather fancy test blocks. If the deal isn't good enough to throw the engine away and buy a scrapyard one to replace it's probably not a good enough deal.
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Nov 28, 2020 18:12
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Barring very extreme cases, the engine should run normal-ish for short periods of time with a blown head gasket. At least enough to be fairly sure Uncle Rodney isn't knocking. Edit: agreed with Motronic re where it should be priced though.
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Nov 28, 2020 18:14
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IOwnCalculus posted:Barring very extreme cases, the engine should run normal-ish for short periods of time with a blown head gasket. At least enough to be fairly sure Uncle Rodney isn't knocking. Agreed, but even if it's not rod knocking, it doesn't tell you the whole story. You could take the head off and it turns into a pretzel (been there) or it's cracked and needs to be replaced. Even worse, it could be so bad the the block needs to be decked (usually not worth the labor) or is cracked/liner dropped (loving rovers). So to me, something in that kind of shape already is just a lump that might be in good enough shape to test the rest of the drivetrain, but it's worth $0. Probably less than $0 because there's probably one or more cooling system issues that need to be dealt with.
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Nov 28, 2020 18:29
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Thanks. Yeah that was kind of my concern, even if it runs ok in the moment, the head could be warped or cracked, or I assume coolant in oil could lead to significant wear on the bearings that I won't see, etc. It's a little four banger Honda L13A, I think. The price is about right, this + junkyard engine is still below what similar cars go for and could probably go a bit lower. That said, considering this is a little econobox, that's possibly quite a bit of labor time at risk here. It might not be a head gasket at all though, or maybe it's just leaking externally. I'll give him a call but if it's any kind of milkshake or blue/white smoke situation i think I'll nope out.
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Nov 28, 2020 18:51
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mobby_6kl posted:Thanks. Yeah that was kind of my concern, even if it runs ok in the moment, the head could be warped or cracked, or I assume coolant in oil could lead to significant wear on the bearings that I won't see, etc. I wouldn't even bother doing a head gasket/exploratory on that motor. Just count on swapping it with something that runs right. It's probably going to cost less than the gasket kit, consumables and even the lowest amount of machining that would be reasonable to do (decking the head). And if things don't go perfect or it needs bearings it just cost you a lot more. There aren't many high volume production motors I'd consider pulling the top end off of anymore. Things are too cheap in the scrap yard.
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Nov 28, 2020 18:57
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My brother has a 2004 Toyota Matrix, noticed a horrible mildewy smell in the car and the rear, passenger side floormat is sopping wet. It's been like this for a couple of weeks at the minimum and doesnt seem to be connected to any rainfall. He worried it was a heater core but there's no HVAC at all in the back and his front floormat is dry as a bone (plus my Jeep experience has me pretty convinced the liquid soaking his floormat isn't coolant). Preliminary googling suggests it's something in the HVAC system clogging up, can anyone point me more in a better direction?
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Nov 28, 2020 19:09
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DildenAnders posted:My brother has a 2004 Toyota Matrix, noticed a horrible mildewy smell in the car and the rear, passenger side floormat is sopping wet. It's been like this for a couple of weeks at the minimum and doesnt seem to be connected to any rainfall. He worried it was a heater core but there's no HVAC at all in the back and his front floormat is dry as a bone (plus my Jeep experience has me pretty convinced the liquid soaking his floormat isn't coolant). Preliminary googling suggests it's something in the HVAC system clogging up, can anyone point me more in a better direction? Does it have a sunroof? Has the AC been running (either because it's hot out or because the defroster has been on)? Because I'd start with sunroof drains and AC condensate drains.
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Nov 28, 2020 19:24
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Motronic posted:Does it have a sunroof? Has the AC been running (either because it's hot out or because the defroster has been on)? No sunroof, A/C use has been minimal because it's been pretty cold here recently.
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Nov 28, 2020 20:41
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DildenAnders posted:No sunroof, A/C use has been minimal because it's been pretty cold here recently. Okay, I'm gonna ask this a different way: are you aware that using defrost turns on the AC in most vehicles? It's to lower humidity to keep the windows from fogging. So if they are using defrost the AC condensate drain thing is still a reasonable possibility.
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Nov 28, 2020 20:47
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Is the floor rusting through from the underside? That was my last wet carpet cause
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Nov 28, 2020 20:50
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DildenAnders posted:No sunroof, A/C use has been minimal because it's been pretty cold here recently. The water has to be coming from somewhere. If it's not rain or A/C, then has it been through a car wash at all? It's also likely that the water has been there a long time, and he just now noticed it. So it could still be A/C condensate from the summer or a recent rainstorm.
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Nov 28, 2020 20:54
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Motronic posted:I wouldn't even bother doing a head gasket/exploratory on that motor. Just count on swapping it with something that runs right. It's probably going to cost less than the gasket kit, consumables and even the lowest amount of machining that would be reasonable to do (decking the head). And if things don't go perfect or it needs bearings it just cost you a lot more. A question I've always had lightly idling in my head is, if you are going to buy a junkyard engine, how do you know it doesn't have the same problem as the one you're replacing? Or someother junkable issue? It's not like you can start it up. What's the trick there?
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Nov 29, 2020 03:11
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| # ? Apr 28, 2024 21:35 |
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tactlessbastard posted:A question I've always had lightly idling in my head is, if you are going to buy a junkyard engine, how do you know it doesn't have the same problem as the one you're replacing? Or someother junkable issue? It's not like you can start it up. What's the trick there? You don't necessarily. What you are looking for is the general condition of the vehicle and why it's there. I want something otherwise clean with reasonable mileage and a total-ing side or rear impact. Then I'm gonna check for leaks, oil condition, etc. It's definitely still a gamble, but good yards aren't trying to screw you.
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Nov 29, 2020 03:13
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