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ihatepants posted:I’m finally upgrading my motherboard and cpu from socket LGA 1151 and i5-6600k to an AM4 (x570 mobo) and 5800x. You don't have to. You can, it may or may not be a good idea. I'm a pave-centrc person but lots of people have reported switching with no issues. Back them up to an external, or put them on a seperate partition from your install but even then I'd back them up off externally. Honestly though, try doing it without reinstalling and go from there. It'll probably just work and if for whatever reason it doesn't boot make an ubuntu flash drive and pull off any important files.
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Dec 3, 2020 06:23
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ihatepants posted:I’m finally upgrading my motherboard and cpu from socket LGA 1151 and i5-6600k to an AM4 (x570 mobo) and 5800x. Safest thing to do is grab a new m.2 nvme drive for your cool new computer and put a new windows 10 install on it (with your old drives out of the pc so you don't accidentally format them). Then you can get it all set up, install your old drives, pull all the files you actually want (not programs) to a safe place, wipe the old drives, reinstall the software you need and move the personal files into whatever you like. Honestly you might be able to get away without reinstalling but I'm guessing you'll keep having little gremlins pop up that will frustrate you to death in the long run.
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Dec 3, 2020 07:50
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I have a pair of speakers that aren't usable because of their broken headphone jack. They're Alesis M1 Active 320s, they broke after a month of use. When I fiddle with a 3.5mm plug or screwdriver in the headphone jack, the speakers will begin working perfectly, but the slightest tap and they both fall dead. I don't care if the jack doesn't function but I want to somehow still use the speakers. Is there any way to plug the jack permanently? Or perhaps a way to bypass or circumvent the headphone output internally? I've taken them apart many times now and tried reassembling with relevant connections undone but nothing has worked. It's so frustrating to have these go to waste because of a tiny $1 piece of plastic.
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Dec 3, 2020 18:33
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ProperCoochie posted:I have a pair of speakers that aren't usable because of their broken headphone jack. They're Alesis M1 Active 320s, they broke after a month of use. When I fiddle with a 3.5mm plug or screwdriver in the headphone jack, the speakers will begin working perfectly, but the slightest tap and they both fall dead. I don't care if the jack doesn't function but I want to somehow still use the speakers. Take it apart and replace the headphone jack. If you dissassemble it and take a photo of the board the jack is soldered onto we can let you know how difficult it might be. If the jack is mounted to the case and wires are going to a board from it that's going to be a very simple fix.
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Dec 3, 2020 18:53
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I know nothing about UPS for my computers. I've got 2, with a 650w power supply, and a attached monitor. I just need it to work long enough to shut down, in case power is shut off at the breaker, from my living situation as a plague refugee living with my parents again after 15 years out of their house. last time I lived here that was their method to get my attention in the guest house. Just cut power to it. I figure that's about 7-8 amps draw for each max. (650w/110v=5.9 amp) I need two, and my budget is around 200$ total.
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Dec 3, 2020 20:13
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I have a short question, but this might not be the right place for it. Is there a way to lock in a jpeg or PDF or really any kind of image to a specific size in inches, so that no matter what screen you're looking at it on, it will always be the same inches. Like I need a document to render at 6.375” x 9.5” regardless of what screen it’s beeing seen on. I realize that I’m dealing with pixels and different resolutions of different screens so what I’m asking is probably impossible, but for my job I deal with physical print media and a lot of folks have struggled the whole WFH to get a grasp on what something will look like in person when they’re looking at it on a screen. A printer is probably the only solution but thought I’d see if there were any tricks that I don’t know about.
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Dec 3, 2020 21:17
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winterwerefox posted:I know nothing about UPS for my computers. I've got 2, with a 650w power supply, and a attached monitor. I just need it to work long enough to shut down, in case power is shut off at the breaker, from my living situation as a plague refugee living with my parents again after 15 years out of their house. last time I lived here that was their method to get my attention in the guest house. Just cut power to it. I figure that's about 7-8 amps draw for each max. (650w/110v=5.9 amp) I need two, and my budget is around 200$ total. 650w is your PSU output but it's unlikely you're pushing anywhere near that, probably closer to a couple hundred watts. Nearly every UPS has has USB connectivity that will either power off the machine after X minutes or when X battery is left. Get any APC or Cyberpower UPS that is in your price range. https://smile.amazon.com/APC-Battery-Protector-BackUPS-BX1000M/dp/B06VY12HW4/ - 1000VA APC for $99 https://smile.amazon.com/CyberPower-AVRG750U-System-Outlets-Compact/dp/B00K8ZMTAQ/ - 750VA Cyberpower for $82
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Dec 3, 2020 21:34
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Can anyone tell me what the heck brand/model this webcam is, or what drivers it needs? I'm trying to get it to work with Discord, and its nothing but a green image on the output. Guides say to update the drivers, but I have no idea how to do that. It works fine in firefox, zoom, and other stuff, only Discord has the issue. edit: windows tells me it is a USB CAMERA, so I cant find any info there either.
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Dec 3, 2020 22:15
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Googling the sku number brings up webcams from YoLuke, some a bit similar looking. They don't have driver downloads on their website though, just a security camera software link that errors out.
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Dec 3, 2020 22:52
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yoohoo posted:I have a short question, but this might not be the right place for it. Maybe there's some site out there that lets you use a similar approach with arbitrary images, which you could submit your document to?
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Dec 3, 2020 23:30
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Fashionable Jorts posted:Can anyone tell me what the heck brand/model this webcam is, or what drivers it needs? I'm trying to get it to work with Discord, and its nothing but a green image on the output. Guides say to update the drivers, but I have no idea how to do that. It works fine in firefox, zoom, and other stuff, only Discord has the issue. A handful of alibaba sellers have an exact match for $2-$5 (if you paid more than this you got ripped off, lol), all of them do not have drivers listed, it just says plug in and should generically work. Does Discord have video permission in Windows settings? Also, can you select the camera in Device manager, right click Properties, Details, Hardware IDs and paste that here? It should look like USB\VID_something\... Impotence fucked around with this message at 00:15 on Dec 4, 2020 |
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Dec 4, 2020 00:12
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FCKGW posted:650w is your PSU output but it's unlikely you're pushing anywhere near that, probably closer to a couple hundred watts. Nearly every UPS has has USB connectivity that will either power off the machine after X minutes or when X battery is left. Ahh thanks! I knew 650w was not full time load, but I kept getting 2-3 star units. My research I to it didn't help my understanding and Amazon insists I speak spanish, making searching hard.
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Dec 4, 2020 01:07
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I've got a question about bottlenecking. I've really been enjoying building my PC and learning more and more about how hardware all works. It's been super interesting. The one thing I still find confusing is that I've seen quite a few comments from tech youtubers and forum posts about CPU bottlenecking along the lines of "your Ryzen 3xxx or 5xxx will become a bottleneck at 1080p but not at 1440p with your modern graphics card". What does this mean? Does the CPU somehow do more work in games at 1080p? Or are people saying that at 1080p there's just no way your graphics card will struggle, so any remaining performance gains would be left to the CPU? And if it's the latter, when people use the term 'bottlenecking' - which I always figured referred to a piece of hardware causing slow performance - do people actually just mean whatever is the de facto bit of hardware that's causing whatever your top framerate is, even if your software is running super well or at your monitor's max refresh rate?
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Dec 4, 2020 10:27
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At low resolutions (i.e. 1080p, relative to 1440p), there's fewer pixels for the GPU to draw. This means that the GPU might finish with its tasks sooner (and we're talking fractions of a second here) and is instead waiting for the CPU to tell it what to draw next. As you get to higher resolutions, there's so much screen to fill that it's the GPU that's doing the brunt of the work, and even a relatively modest CPU will suffice: if you're running 4k resolution, and your GPU is, say, only an RTX 2060, it takes so long for the GPU to finish rendering the scene that even if your CPU is only a Ryzen 3 1200, that's okay, because the GPU takes so long that the CPU is done doing its part long before the next scene has to be drawn. In this case, even if you went from a Ryzen 3 1200 to a Ryzen 5 5600X, you might still not see an increase in your 4k frame rates, because it's the GPU holding you back - bottlenecking. Having said that, comparing a Ryzen 3 1200 to a Ryzen 5 5600X is sort of an exagerration - graphics, and the one game, isn't the only thing that a CPU does, and I wouldn't really recommend that someone pick up a Ryzen 3 1200 even if we somehow knew that theoretically it'd be enough to drive a game at 4k60Hz, if only because multi-tasking would suffer. And yes, "bottlenecking" generally refers to "the one part in your system that is holding your games/applications from going any faster" - that doesn't necessarily reflect on how much you stand to gain from upgrading the bottleneck, or whether you even need to relieve the bottleneck based on how comfortable you are with your system. It's just that, when you're measuring the "pure performance" of a part, you generally want to relieve bottlenecks on other parts so that like-for-like comparisons against the particular thing you're reviewing can make themselves known. CPUs tend to be tested at 1080p (and before they used to be tested at 720p) so that you can see which ones are "faster" comparatively, while GPUs are tested across multiple resolutions, but especially these days at 1440p and 4k, so that you can similarly see how one GPU compares to another when the parameters are set such that it's the one thing that'll determine how high the FPS goes. But the "practicality" of pursuing certain parts based on such results can vary on an individual consumer's budget and use-case.
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Dec 4, 2020 10:52
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Thank you! That makes perfect sense. I suppose I'd read it before in the sense that there'd somehow be a performance penalty on certain CPUs when going down to 1080. But it's more that at 1080, a high-end GPU isn't going to so much as break a sweat.
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Dec 4, 2020 11:40
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So I’ve got a UPS and the outlets are fairly close together and the things that go into it have those big obnoxious wall warts. I’ve been using those 6” extension cords/“outlet savers” but they now cost like $8 each on Amazon (Canada) so I’m wondering where else I can find them for cheap. Any recommendations? They do need to be grounded.
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Dec 4, 2020 16:11
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Here's a 10-pack for $40: https://www.amazon.ca/Etekcity-10-Pack-3-Prong-Outlet-Extension/dp/B00CEJW0WQ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=238FTXX99XZ1L
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Dec 4, 2020 16:34
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TITTIEKISSER69 posted:Here's a 10-pack for $40: https://www.amazon.ca/Etekcity-10-Pack-3-Prong-Outlet-Extension/dp/B00CEJW0WQ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=238FTXX99XZ1L Oof I guess if I get 10 I'll never need more again. Thanks though!
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Dec 4, 2020 16:41
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I stopped buying those online and just head down to the local Walmart/Target/dollar store and they usually have them there for a buck each. Your local hardware store should have them there as well. Those things are cheap and convent enough that sellers on Amazon have figured out they can charge 5x the normal price and since they're still relatively affordable and aren't purchased a lot they will still sell.
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Dec 4, 2020 16:44
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Biowarfare posted:A handful of alibaba sellers have an exact match for $2-$5 (if you paid more than this you got ripped off, lol), all of them do not have drivers listed, it just says plug in and should generically work. Does Discord have video permission in Windows settings? Somehow missed your reply, sorry. USB\VID_1224&PID_2A25&REV_0100&MI_00 USB\VID_1224&PID_2A25&MI_00 Lol manufacturer is listed as "Microsoft". It was a gift from a friend so we can do online d&d, so I spent $0. I now hope they didn't spend much on it.
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Dec 4, 2020 18:55
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Deanut Pancer posted:I don't know exactly how to do it automatically (I suspect it may not be possible to support all possible resolution/monitor combinations) but try googling for 'compare phone size' and have a look at a few of the sites that come up. Quite a few of them have you hold up some physical thing of known size (eg your current phone, a credit card, dollar bill) in front of your screen and move a slider until the image on screen matches your physical thing. Then they can use that info to show you a bunch of phones at accurate 1:1 physical sizes. Thanks for the suggestion -- I'll look into this.
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Dec 4, 2020 20:55
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Anyone here with a Meshify C case just take out the front dust filter permanently? I’d rather dust my pc twice as often than have to pop the front piece off with all the I/O cables just to get to the filter. My wiring is all secure so pulling back pieces that are hard wired is pretty sketchy. I guess I could just strait up vacuum the front of my pc.
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Dec 4, 2020 21:59
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Rolo posted:Anyone here with a Meshify C case just take out the front dust filter permanently? I’d rather dust my pc twice as often than have to pop the front piece off with all the I/O cables just to get to the filter. My wiring is all secure so pulling back pieces that are hard wired is pretty sketchy. Having run my case without filters a couple of times I wouldn’t go back. All kinds of dust gets into the GPU in really annoying hard-to-reach places. Also if you use an AIO there is going to be an unholy amount of dust in between your exhaust fans and the fin stack. The most dust will collect on your intake fans because they will just be straight up caked in dust. Id try the vacuum thing and then maybe every few months actually take it off the front and run the filter under a sink to get it super clean.
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Dec 4, 2020 23:19
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Rolo posted:Anyone here with a Meshify C case just take out the front dust filter permanently?
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Dec 4, 2020 23:22
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Rolo posted:Anyone here with a Meshify C case just take out the front dust filter permanently? I’d rather dust my pc twice as often than have to pop the front piece off with all the I/O cables just to get to the filter. My wiring is all secure so pulling back pieces that are hard wired is pretty sketchy. You're doing it wrong. You don't have to pull the whole front (with the cables and USB ports) off, you just need to remove the bottom filter. Then there's a hole accessible from the bottom were you can pop out just the front filter.
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Dec 4, 2020 23:26
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-6RkrId2l8
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Dec 4, 2020 23:32
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Heatsink fins are a monumental pain in the rear end to clean, even with dedicated tools.
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Dec 4, 2020 23:40
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ufarn posted:Heatsink fins are a monumental pain in the rear end to clean, even with dedicated tools. I literally just washed my AIO radiator in water and then let it sit over a fan for an hour to dry. Temp drop was huge since it had gotten filthy.
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Dec 5, 2020 00:10
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Oh you’ve gotta be kidding me.
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Dec 5, 2020 00:48
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So my grandparents managed to somehow gently caress their computer up and now the BIOS is asking for the "HDD1 Password" on boot. I obviously did not set a HDD password when I built this computer for them and I have absolutely zero clue how either of them would have managed to slam enough keys in the BIOS menu to somehow set a password of their own volition. I have removed the drive from the PC and tested, and the drive is still good, and the platter is still totally fine (I made a backup of a bunch of pictures just in case) Is there a way to remove the password with a command of some sort? I read a thing about having to download some dodgy ISO, burn it to a CD and then boot from it to run a bunch of commands but I wanted to ask here before I started downloading malware trying to get this thing unlocked. The alternative is just buying a new internal drive and transferring data so the stakes aren't super high. Hoping some kind goon has seen this before, it's a WD drive for reference. I tried clearing the CMOS and all that usual bizness but this is a HDD1 password and not a BIOS password so I don't think that has any effect.
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Dec 5, 2020 00:49
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So I've got myself a fancy schmancy Gaming Laptop (Lenovo Legion 7 IMH05) from a black friday deal and now feel a bit dumb with setting up multiple monitors. I work a lot from home so i already have a cheap and good Dell monitor that is totally fine for my office work. But now that I have a machine that can play actual games, I'd like to invest into a monitor that also can show that off. But I've been getting mixed messages on how to do that when I want to use both a gaming monitor and office monitor with the laptop. As far as I can see is that when I want to use a docking station that the powersupply won't work fot the laptop (over thunderbolt) I have and the refresh rate is capped at 60Hz which then wouldn't make sense to spend money on a high refresh rate monitor. What options do I have other than a dock with without spending for an option that can't even fully use the hardware? Attach the gaming monitor over hdmi and the other monitor with a an adaptor through thunderbolt or USB-C?
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Dec 5, 2020 10:57
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Helios Grime posted:So I've got myself a fancy schmancy Gaming Laptop (Lenovo Legion 7 IMH05) from a black friday deal and now feel a bit dumb with setting up multiple monitors. Yes. Or a monitor that can daisy chain off the DisplayPort (over USB-C) from the laptop.
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Dec 5, 2020 18:36
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I installed an AMD Wraith Prism RGB cooler and the lights turn off at low fan speeds, how do I keep them on all the time? They seem to be on when the PC starts are all the fans are ramped up, but when it calms down all the lights go off. I plugged in the USB connector and install the software and it says they're all "On" but I think the low speeds are overriding that?
FCKGW fucked around with this message at 20:49 on Dec 5, 2020 |
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Dec 5, 2020 20:39
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FCKGW posted:I installed an AMD Wraith Prism RGB cooler and the lights turn off at low fan speeds, how do I keep them on all the time? They seem to be on when the PC starts are all the fans are ramped up, but when it calms down all the lights go off. I plugged in the USB connector and install the software and it says they're all "On" but I think the low speeds are overriding that? How is the fan control set up on the motherboard? A lot of motherboards support two different fan control methods: PWM, and variable voltage (which is really just PWM on the motherboard instead of in the fan). With PWM control, the fan always gets the full 12V power supply, and there's a separate wire to tell it how fast to run. With variable voltage, the motherboard directly changes the voltage on the 12V line, because lower voltage means the fan will spin slower. I'd guess that you've got it running with variable voltage control, and when your motherboard drops the fan voltage below some critical level, it's not getting enough juice to run the lights any more.
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Dec 5, 2020 22:09
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Space Gopher posted:How is the fan control set up on the motherboard? That was it. It was set to “DC” mode in the Asus BIOS. Changing it to “PWM” brought back all the lights and I can change the settings too. Thanks! 
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Dec 6, 2020 02:46
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What's the deal with 4k panels displaying lower res content? Will it look blurry and bad the way 1080p games do at full screen on my old 1440p Apple Cinema Display? I recently bought a PS4 Pro and considering upgrading from my elderly 1080p plasma if I saw a deal pop up secondhand after Christmas. I use it for gaming (both my PC and consoles) and watching Netflix. My computer definitely can't handle 4k gaming, and I've also got a Switch, WiiU, and PS3 I'd have plugged into it.
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Dec 6, 2020 08:32
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Ethics_Gradient posted:What's the deal with 4k panels displaying lower res content? Will it look blurry and bad the way 1080p games do at full screen on my old 1440p Apple Cinema Display? It depends on the panel really and how/whether it handles upscaling (different games consoles might also fare better or worse. Good luck with the PS3.) I've got a fairly cheap Samsung 4k TV and games look fine running at 1080p (at least on the Switch). Maybe that's because it's a TV though? Conversely I have a 1440p Samsung monitor, and although it's great for games, streaming TV looks mostly terrible on it.
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Dec 6, 2020 13:05
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Isn't it a distance thing? At arms length 1080p looks real bad on my 1440p monitor, but if I take a seat further away it's acceptable. At 27" it's a bit small for couch gaming, though.
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Dec 6, 2020 13:16
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ProperCoochie posted:I have a pair of speakers that aren't usable because of their broken headphone jack. They're Alesis M1 Active 320s, they broke after a month of use. When I fiddle with a 3.5mm plug or screwdriver in the headphone jack, the speakers will begin working perfectly, but the slightest tap and they both fall dead. I don't care if the jack doesn't function but I want to somehow still use the speakers. VelociBacon posted:Take it apart and replace the headphone jack. If you dissassemble it and take a photo of the board the jack is soldered onto we can let you know how difficult it might be. If the jack is mounted to the case and wires are going to a board from it that's going to be a very simple fix. Hi, it's me again. The Alesis headphone jack pretty much fell apart with my tinkering. I should mention the outside ring was the first thing to break many months ago and that's what started all the problems. The speakers haven't worked right since then. I don't care if the headphone jack and power LED don't work and sit inside the speaker. I just want to output audio out from the speakers. Here's the Alesis pcb that had the headphone jack. Note the right side is the power LED https://imgur.com/ZwWZPzg rear view https://imgur.com/7bx0vQT Unfortunately, leaving the 5-pin connector and/or 2-pin connector disconnected from the main board didn't bypass the headphone jack. Now here's a headphone jack from an old junky pair of computer speakers. Is it possible I could solder this onto the Alesis board? https://imgur.com/tomSEaf https://imgur.com/XJzAqtS I'm having a hard time researching and googling answers and opinions on this, so any help is really appreciated.
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Dec 6, 2020 23:44
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ProperCoochie posted:I'm having a hard time researching and googling answers and opinions on this, so any help is really appreciated. In your place I'd be tempted to just try whatever combination of red or white with the black wire on the audio side kicks it in gear, but understand I'm not qualified in any way. E: Like I'm guessing, black bridged with red from the same bundle Flipperwaldt fucked around with this message at 00:34 on Dec 7, 2020 |
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Dec 7, 2020 00:17
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