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Worth noting, a lot of trans shops loving suck at electrical diag. They might just tell you it needs a rebuild not knowing it needs one wire fixed. I've seen independent shops do the same thing too, and freelance guys, and gearheads. Research the issue on a forum specific to the chassis and year you are working with, there may be well known issues that cover this, or an expert who knows what to do. Find out if there are preferred shops in your area that specialize in that exact vehicle. Bring it to them. I've probably prevented around 50 people from needlessly replacing their CPS, ignition coil, and ECU in their 91-01 Jeep Cherokee after their O2 sensor wiring came loose and hit the driveshaft or exhaust and shorted out, for example. A few butt splices, a little wire and electrical tape, and one fuse and the problem is solved. But on the other hand, you might actually need a full trans rebuild and a cooler replacement and cooler line flush or replacement. There is no telling for sure until the right set of eyes are on it.
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Dec 8, 2020 23:05
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It's hard finding a good transmission shop too. At least it used to be. I've just done a junkyard swap rather than trying to deal with incompetent rebuilders.
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Dec 8, 2020 23:09
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Charles posted:It's hard finding a good transmission shop too. At least it used to be. I've just done a junkyard swap rather than trying to deal with incompetent rebuilders. Unless it's like super specialty it seems "good transmission shops" no longer exist. They're all just high speed parts swappers these days unless it's "that guy 3 states away that bulletproofs Alisons for 1000 HP that everyone on the diesel forums uses" or similar.
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Dec 8, 2020 23:16
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Sagebrush posted:Diagnostic trouble code. Oooh, i see. That makes sense. Thanks for the info, amigos. And yeah, mentally prepared for a huge bill, no question. If it's too much, I'll just have to sell it, which sucks because it's the first car in my 20 years of driving that i actually love.
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Dec 8, 2020 23:59
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Motronic posted:Unless it's like super specialty it seems "good transmission shops" no longer exist. They're all just high speed parts swappers these days unless it's "that guy 3 states away that bulletproofs Alisons for 1000 HP that everyone on the diesel forums uses" or similar. I'm taking it to th only place around that seems to service VWs.
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Dec 9, 2020 00:00
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Narzack posted:I'm taking it to th only place around that seems to service VWs. Probably a much better choice than a dedicated transmission shop that isn't VW specific (good luck finding that!).
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Dec 9, 2020 00:07
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I need to add more coolant to a 2005 Toyota Camry. Which specific type do I need to buy? Can I just buy something like this and dump it in the coolant reserve? Maybe this is the better choice? I can't remember when exactly (maybe a few oil change cycles ago?) I had a service place flush the coolant. Should I be concerned about the little black bits still floating around in there? I know you can't mix and match coolants, so I took a picture of what was remaining in the car. 
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Dec 9, 2020 00:11
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Motronic posted:Unless it's like super specialty it seems "good transmission shops" no longer exist. They're all just high speed parts swappers these days unless it's "that guy 3 states away that bulletproofs Alisons for 1000 HP that everyone on the diesel forums uses" or similar. I did get randomly recommended a YouTube channel for Precision Tranmissions (I think?) that seems good but from their accent they sound about 20 states away from me.
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Dec 9, 2020 02:10
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At this point even a fairly generic common transmission, say like a 8HPXX, is part of a integrated powertrain system so you're better off going to a brand specialist than a transmission specialist.
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Dec 9, 2020 02:28
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Charles posted:I did get randomly recommended a YouTube channel for Precision Tranmissions (I think?) that seems good but from their accent they sound about 20 states away from me. Those guys have been blowing up on Youtube, ha. Looks like they're in Texas. They do fairly in-depth teardowns and failure analysis of a lot of their rebuilds, but even then it's been focused on a scant few domestic autoboxes. To be fair there's probably a lot of money in being able to do good 700R4/4L60 rebuilds since there are literally millions upon millions of those turds on the road and they'll all grenade sooner or later. Bioshuffle posted:I need to add more coolant to a 2005 Toyota Camry. Which specific type do I need to buy? Can I just buy something like this and dump it in the coolant reserve? Maybe this is the better choice? That first one will "work" but I'd personally be hesitant to trust it for 5yr/150k miles when mixed with something else. I'd use it if that's all you had around. What you photographed looks like Toyota-style red antifreeze so there's no reason not to keep using that. The second one you linked is fine, as is any other "red/pink Asian vehicle" antifreeze you can find on the shelf at any parts store / Walmart.
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Dec 9, 2020 02:33
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IOwnCalculus posted:Those guys have been blowing up on Youtube, ha. Looks like they're in Texas.
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Dec 9, 2020 02:42
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wesleywillis posted:I thought the 700r4 was one of the good transmissions? Like the better one since the thx00s weren't being made anymore. Ha, nope, not by a long shot. They spent 30+ years updating that transmission and even if you throw every loving upgrade possible at one, they're still fragile. I suppose you could probably make one last forever at ~300hp now, and that wasn't possible in the '80s. But anyone chasing big power numbers, or who just doesn't want to spend time swapping transmissions repeatedly, goes with anything else. Powerglide/TH350/TH400 if you don't need overdrive, 4L80 if you do. 6L80 if you've got a computer that can run it. (full disclosure: I still own a 4L60E but whenever I blow it to hell, it's getting *something* else)
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Dec 9, 2020 02:49
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I think this is the right thread to ask but please feel free to redirect me. We just moved to Vancouver and we are in the process of purchasing a 2020 Volvo XC-40. We have been doing this all remotely as we are in quarantine until Sunday so, after we got the final price and financing approved, we received the following email from the dealer: quote:If you wanted to take this opportunity to get your vehicle protected and have a paint, leather and undercoating moisture protection applied, this is the ideal time. Our climate here is very damp and can be hard on vehicles. The applications below will help to protect your new addition! My gut instinct is no to everything. A little quick research online confirms I should probably say no, specifically that (i) the leather care is no different than we could get for $50-100 somewhere else, (ii) for new cars the only paint protection you need is regular washing and waxing (we are good about this), and (iii) undercoating is way less of an issue nowadays (although we are new to Vancouver so this is one I'm probably most on the fence about). As far as the extended maintenance care I've just never felt like prepaying for it with anything. I'm definitely a novice with cars other than take car of them and keep them as long as you can, so please tell me if you think I'm wrong and we should consider any of these. Or, alternatively, if you would recommend any of these services from a third party and not these dealer prices. For what it's worth we had my old Nissan for 12 years and probably would still have it if we didn't make the move, and plan to keep this car as long as we can as well. We do have a 3 year old, but we also take pretty good care of our car as far as regular maintenance, washing, etc. Thanks in advance and please feel free to tell me there is a better place to ask any of this.
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Dec 9, 2020 02:52
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owlhawk911 posted:tell us about the truly stupid action pls taqueso posted:I wonder how many pencils it would take to drive that plastic bit out of the tube Elmnt80 posted:TELL THE STORY SMERSH MOUTH Ok. Here’s my detailed account. By the way I’m still driving with the tube wad in my dipstick hole. It all started with the dealership. Why do I take my car there for regular maintenance? It’s an open question. But it is the first newish car, the first car from a dealership, that I’ve ever owned. I guess I just want to...protect my investment? I don’t know. I always changed my oil/filters/other poo poo myself on my old 6th gen civic. This 2016 has a protective panel that has to come off before you can easily access stuff like the drain plug from below, and I’m... too lazy for that now. Anyway they either didn’t tighten the oil filter last time or it experienced a spontaneous failure. When the oil puddle appeared in my driveway I took it back and they replaced it. A few days later I decided to check the oil level just to see if they topped it off after the leak. (The fix was pretty fast, but don’t know why I didn’t just ask them.) So the little orange plastic nodule at the end of the 10th gen civic dipstick is apparently totally inscrutable to me, because I read it as low. Practically empty. I added half a quart, checked again, and what do you know the son of a bitch is now too full. Over the orange node. I guess my old civic’s oil just never looked that clean. What to do? Don’t drive it anywhere! Just siphon some of it out. Grab a few feet of new 3/16th fuel line from the store, use one of my nurse partner’s giant clown syringes to pull the half quart back out, then pull out the fuel line. It got hung up (I’m thinking maybe because I didn’t open up the oil cap so I was siphoning an almost completely sealed reservoir of oil) I pulled, it got stretched out, then snapped back and wadded itself up just a few desperate inches from the mouth of the dipstick tube. One more frustrated yank and the rest of the line broke away, leaving me with the wad. Tried driving a long drywall screw tied to a nylon string into the hose wad and pulling, but it’s stuck. Stuck. Guy at the neighborhood import mechanic shop suggested I try exactly that after I gave up and took it in. Interesting that it’s what he thought of too. I suppose I could try breaking it up with some kind of other long implement. I’m assured by the same shop mechanic that there is a debris screen at the bottom of the tube. But I don’t like the idea. According to the mechanic, to actually access and remove the dipstick tube will require getting into the cylinder head. Not an expense I’m going to bite the bullet on just yet. For the time being, I’m apparently free to go as long as I don’t need to check my oil level. But I intend to get the problem solved somehow before I take it back in for my next oil change. ...at the dealership?
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Dec 9, 2020 02:52
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Voodoofly posted:My gut instinct is no to everything. Correct! None of the paint and leather protectants are worth the money. Wash and wax the car regularly and that's plenty for the paint; use any regular leather cleaner/protector you can get at the auto parts store a few times a year and that'll do it for the seats. Undercoating is not necessary in a place where it just rains, like Vancouver. If you're in a place where they salt the roads you could consider it, but get it done at a third-party place since it's just spraying a bunch of thick sticky oil under the car and it will be much cheaper. Incredible lmao @ "prepaying maintenance." You shouldn't have to replace your pads, let alone rotors, at all in the first four years of ownership (pads should be good for about 35,000 miles, rotors perhaps twice that) so have fun paying $3500 for a couple of sets of wipers. And even if you did replace the brakes, it'll be less than 500 dollars for all the parts for all four wheels and it's like an hour job for a mechanic. That's one of the best scams I've seen in a long time. e: like they literally don't even say that you get a better deal or anything, just that if you don't prepay you will have to pay out of pocket for brakes. You could do it once a year (insane, pointless) for less than they're offering to charge. And the 3-year term is cheaper per year than the 4-year term! What the gently caress. gently caress I hate dealers Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 03:06 on Dec 9, 2020 |
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Dec 9, 2020 03:00
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Voodoofly posted:My gut instinct is no to everything. A little quick research online confirms I should probably say no, specifically that (i) the leather care is no different than we could get for $50-100 somewhere else, (ii) for new cars the only paint protection you need is regular washing and waxing (we are good about this), and (iii) undercoating is way less of an issue nowadays (although we are new to Vancouver so this is one I'm probably most on the fence about). As far as the extended maintenance care I've just never felt like prepaying for it with anything. Dealer add-ons are always a bad idea so your gut is absolutely correct here. If you truly care about keeping the car as close to new as possible, that money would be better spent paying a professional detailer (someone who literally just details cars, not the dumbfuck at the dealer who hoses them out) to do a ceramic coating. But unless you are the type of person who notices or cares about things like swirl marks, washing and waxing it regularly will be just fine. Undercoating can be a benefit but again, you can almost certainly find a mechanic who will do a better job for less money than the dealer. I'll let someone who actually lives with rust provide real info there. Prepaid maintenance is a loving scam, especially at those prices. A modern car needs almost no maintenance over the course of four years. Depending on your driving habits, for most people that means 2 or 3 oil changes per year, maybe a transmission fluid change, probably a couple of air filters. You *might* be wearing down brakes by then but since we're talking a Volvo, not a Porsche with carbon rotors, that will certainly cost a lot less than $2400 even with new rotors.
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Dec 9, 2020 03:00
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Thank you both for confirming my suspicions.
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Dec 9, 2020 03:07
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Most of that stuff is actively a scam. Prepaid maintenance can be OK but not at that price. Audi is relatively reasonable about stuff like this and I think the prepaid Audi Care plans are fairly decent value but they're like three years $999.
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Dec 9, 2020 03:30
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I have a 2002 vw golf. In my manual it says I have to use the specific vw branded "g12" antifreeze. Is this a legit thing or are they just trying to sell me it. I have some "british standard" stuff.
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Dec 9, 2020 13:35
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IOwnCalculus posted:Those guys have been blowing up on Youtube, ha. Looks like they're in Texas. Based out of Amarillo TX, and only works on domestic transmissions. Also doesn't do walk-out work, you bring him the whole vehicle and let them do removal/install - he's had too many people bring transmissions back for warranty work after their own botched installation trashed it. Also also, he's up to his ears in work after going on youtube and there's now a substantial waiting list. Otherwise... Motronic posted:that guy 3 states away that bulletproofs Alisons for 1000 HP that everyone on the diesel forums uses ...one of those.
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Dec 9, 2020 14:07
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Jippa posted:I have a 2002 vw golf. In my manual it says I have to use the specific vw branded "g12" antifreeze. Is this a legit thing or are they just trying to sell me it. I have some "british standard" stuff. There are different formulations for coolant but really, it's an 18 year old car - I'd just use what you have lying around unless you are strongly emotionally attached to the car.
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Dec 9, 2020 15:35
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VW use the red stuff, whether that's Eurocarparts GX branded or upwards in terms of cash it doesn't matter.
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Dec 9, 2020 16:23
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Jippa posted:I have a 2002 vw golf. In my manual it says I have to use the specific vw branded "g12" antifreeze. Is this a legit thing or are they just trying to sell me it. I have some "british standard" stuff. Any G12, G12+, G12++, G13, etc coolant will work just fine. Just get "the pink stuff for VW" at your local Halfords or whatever. I would recommend G12++ over G13 because mixing them isn't exactly ideal but it can't really hurt either. But you really don't need VW branded stuff. Source: until recently I was a fellow 2002 VW Golf owner.
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Dec 9, 2020 19:16
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rndmnmbr posted:Based out of Amarillo TX, and only works on domestic transmissions. Also doesn't do walk-out work, you bring him the whole vehicle and let them do removal/install - he's had too many people bring transmissions back for warranty work after their own botched installation trashed it. Also also, he's up to his ears in work after going on youtube and there's now a substantial waiting list. I can watch him and Eric @ SMA for hours, and I don't even change my own oil anymore. There's 1 or 2 "GOOD" transmission shops in my area, and they are up to their eyeballs in work constantly.
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Dec 9, 2020 21:12
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spankmeister posted:Any G12, G12+, G12++, G13, etc coolant will work just fine. So what I'm asking you is that the generic "anti freeze" bought at a normal british garage wouldn't be good enough? It has to be this G12/whatever stuff specific for vw?
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Dec 9, 2020 23:37
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Jippa posted:So what I'm asking you is that the generic "anti freeze" bought at a normal british garage wouldn't be good enough? It has to be this G12/whatever stuff specific for vw? There's no such thing as "generic antifreeze" anymore. Cars use different formulas that aren't necessarily compatible. You need to look up the specific type used in your car and find something equivalent.
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Dec 10, 2020 01:07
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No, it just needs to be red. The cheap GX stuff from Eurocarparts states it meets all the requirements (G12+) and it'll be the same with the other reds from other manufacturers.
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Dec 10, 2020 01:09
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Alright, thanks.
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Dec 10, 2020 01:12
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How often should spark plugs be replaced? 2005 Subaru 3.0 H6 if that matters
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Dec 10, 2020 06:08
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simplefish posted:How often should spark plugs be replaced? It might say in the owners manual. How many miles/km are currently on the car, and do you know if they've ever been replaced before?
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Dec 10, 2020 12:34
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simplefish posted:How often should spark plugs be replaced? Every 60k miles for that particular engine, so long as you use iridium plugs. Rockauto and the owner's manual for a 2005 Legacy/Outback 3.0 claim the original plugs are NGK part #6481, I'd strongly suggest using NGK or Denso iridiums (even if you don't use that part #). You can probably get away with every 90k. Supposedly the two rearmost (closest to firewall) plugs can be a pain, depending what car it's in.
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Dec 10, 2020 14:06
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STR posted:Every 60k miles for that particular engine, so long as you use iridium plugs. Rockauto and the owner's manual for a 2005 Legacy/Outback 3.0 claim the original plugs are NGK part #6481, I'd strongly suggest using NGK or Denso iridiums (even if you don't use that part #). If you don't get the OE plug (NGK ILFR6B), make sure your plugs match in physical size/heat range obviously but also make sure it is: iridium center electrode, with platinum on the ground electrode. This will make sure they last as long as possible. Do not use platinum center electrode or ones without platinum on the ground electrode as they will not last as long.
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Dec 10, 2020 17:58
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Yo somebody talk me out of buying a NC Miata from carfax 4 states away sight unseen
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Dec 11, 2020 03:05
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No.
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Dec 11, 2020 03:36
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Why the hell would anyone try to talk you out of that. It's low risk fun.
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Dec 11, 2020 03:40
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Midlife crisis here we come! E: there's a great deal on a beautiful NB 7 hours in the opposite direction aaaaaa what to do tactlessbastard fucked around with this message at 06:51 on Dec 11, 2020 |
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Dec 11, 2020 03:47
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Get one of the galvanized ones idk which ones are and aren't but the older ones rust like they're made of used steel wool glued together.
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Dec 11, 2020 08:37
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NBs have the double-walled steel front chassis rails for crumple zones that always rot out. I need to get mine chopped out for spring. I'm assuming NC onward has a better setup though NCs (at least UK ones) have that material matting sound deadening stuff inside the rear wheel wells that hold water against the paint and eventually rots those out instead.
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Dec 11, 2020 13:35
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I mean it's a Miata, there's a lot of them - not sure that I'd want to buy something like that which I hadn't driven and looked at.
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Dec 11, 2020 14:52
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totalnewbie posted:If you don't get the OE plug (NGK ILFR6B), make sure your plugs match in physical size/heat range obviously but also make sure it is: iridium center electrode, with platinum on the ground electrode. This will make sure they last as long as possible. Do not use platinum center electrode or ones without platinum on the ground electrode as they will not last as long. ILFR6B = NGK 6481.  (I'm sure you know this, but wanted to make sure simplefish knows it's the same plug - Subaru's owner's manuals refer to the 4 digit part #). Either part # works on Rockauto, and Rockauto or Amazon would be the way to go (they're $14 a pop at Advance, currently $11.60 on Amazon and eligible for prime, $8.11 on Rockauto + shipping).
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Dec 11, 2020 15:47
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