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randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Motronic posted:

Note, you are operating this power seat with a dead battery, so a jump pack of similar is required to change your battery.

Why yes, it IS german.

Too many quality British parts fell off of the Rovers? :v:

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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

STR posted:

Too many quality British parts fell off of the Rovers? :v:

There's not much steel left in the bottom of the rover at this point and sometimes you just don't want to get soaked when driving in the rain.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

angryrobots posted:

Successfully reset the BMS, and while we were at it, disabled the annoying as heck double horn honk (if you get out with the key fob in your pocket, and shut the door. Makes you look real slick when it get out just to check the mail and the neighbor thinks you're honking at them).

I forscanned that out too, drove me nuts. Also upped the tap to change lanes from 3 blinks to 5.

Poisonlizard
Apr 1, 2007

angryrobots posted:



:shrug: The airbox takes no more than 5 minutes to remove.

I actually was able to use the stock hold-down (with some spacers) and got the top covers snapped on, but it's very tight. Hopefully the new parts complete this little project. Successfully reset the BMS, and while we were at it, disabled the annoying as heck double horn honk (if you get out with the key fob in your pocket, and shut the door. Makes you look real slick when it get out just to check the mail and the neighbor thinks you're honking at them).

I hate the double honk, didn't know you could use Forscan to kill that. Guess I'll be looking into that.

Night Danger Moose
Jan 5, 2004

YO SOY FIESTA

opengl128 posted:

Also upped the tap to change lanes from 3 blinks to 5.
I did not know Forscan could do that, that's awesome. I'll have to look into that.

Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific



Hypnolobster posted:

A quick cheap strut install turned into replacing the entirety of the rear suspension, along with wheel cylinders, a tie rod end and an alignment. Jesus christ.


Things devolved to oxyfuel torch almost immediately. I fought with everything on the drivers side, and on the second I just cut every link in half to get the entire trailing arm out of the way, which gave me room to carefully burn off the seized bastard bushings while not destroying all the rivnuts. Still had to chase every single thread, and replace every single bolt (thank god for mcmaster and JIS flanged head bolts).


Obnoxious number of links and bushings back there. Lower arm/strut bushing, camber arm, toe arm and trailing arm bushing. Pretty sure they were all original with 200k on them.


String alignment was really not that hard with some pre-planning. Lot of back and forth but with everything already broken loose it was absolutely worth avoiding going to covid-land-shop. Satisfying, too.


And uh, yeah I should have done that ~50k ago.

This was almost my exact experience doing the rear struts in my Del Sol. Had to cut every passenger side control arm bolt, and replace brake pipes and wheel cylinders. Passenger side took like 4-5 hours and the driver side took under two hours combined for suspension and brakes, due to a combination of experience from the first side and zero stuck bolts on the driver’s side. I didn’t touch any of the upper stuff thank god.

The final result, aluminum ITR-style LCA’s and Tanabe Sustec Pro DC2RR coilovers:

Imperador do Brasil fucked around with this message at 18:23 on Dec 14, 2020

chrisgt
Sep 6, 2011

:getin:

Imperador do Brasil posted:

This was almost my exact experience doing the rear struts in my Del Sol. Had to cut every passenger side control arm bolt, and replace brake pipes and wheel cylinders. Passenger side took like 4-5 hours and the driver side took under two hours combined for suspension and brakes, due to a combination of experience from the first side and zero stuck bolts on the driver’s side. I didn’t touch any of the upper stuff thank god.

The final result, aluminum ITR-style LCA’s and Tanabe Sustec Pro DC2RR coilovers:



The brake line in the second pic is badly kinked and should be fixed ASAP.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Fuckin yikes.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


chrisgt posted:

The brake line in the second pic is badly kinked and should be fixed ASAP.

Uh, yeah. Try that one again.

Cross-posting from my disaster thread:

Darchangel posted:

I almost forgot I played with the Subie a bit, too. Wife wanted me to check the brakes - they've been squeaking a bit - and it's had a clunk in the rear suspension, especially when transitioning from forward to reverse, and vice versa for <checks reminders> over a year :bravo: :cripes:

First off - I'm pretty impressed with Subaru's torsional rigidity:


I lowered the rear and the left side was like 1/4" from the jack stand. Obviously I put it back after taking this picture, and I had the jack under the diff skid plate, until I needed to use the jack to work the suspension to make it easier to get to bolts and such.

Everything looked OK, maybe a little dry, starting to crack, so will need attention soon-ish, but nothing actually broken. Until I got to the upper-inner left:

I really feel like that should be centered.

So, what happens if I pry on that a bit?

(video, click through to animate)

...that's not correct.

Undid the bolt at the outer end and:

(also a video)

No, that's definitely not how it's supposed to behave.

It didn't exactly fall out, but it didn't take too much effort.


So I did the right thing and put it back.

I mainly took it apart because I had the time, and wanted to figure out how to do so while I had time, and it was nice outside.
Subaru can eat a bag of dicks for how they positioned that upper bolt, BTW. I'm sure it's super easy to assemble before the subframe is installed, but everything nearby is in the way if the subframe is still in the car. One mount is in the way of coming up from underneath, and your limited in arc coming from the side. Still not impossible, at least.
Genuine Subaru parts ordered, which was itself entertaining, since a lot of parts sources use the same part number for this gen, in 6 different locations, and in succeeding generations up to 2018 (nice reuse, Subaru - if it isn't broken, why redesign?) but Subaru themselves specify a different part number in that location only for 2003-4. It's dimensionally the same, and the part number only changes by one digit at the end. I assume they specified a different elastomer or something. Only $12-15 each from vendors for the correct part. Beck-Arnley is only $5 from Rock Auto, but will somehow come from 3 different warehouses despite being only one part. Also, I will only use Beck-Arnley if it's all there is, and/or I'm bucks down. The Whiteline poly bushings are $40, so, nah. ...though I just realized that was probably for both sides.
edit: yeah. $42.80 with free shipping. I paid $28 for two OEM bushings (probably going to do both sides, just because) from eBay. Ah well.
I'm hoping that this will also be what's behind the shimmy under moderate braking.

The brakes were fine. Plenty of meat left on all four corners, and no significant grooves. They're just a noisy compound. I took the opportunity to rotate the tires while I was in there.

Of course, the check engine light came on after my wife took it shopping. I still haven't checked that.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

It's P0420 or a primary O2 sensor. It's always P0420 or an O2.

Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific



chrisgt posted:

The brake line in the second pic is badly kinked and should be fixed ASAP.

Crap you’re right - I must have missed that in the frenzy of the day. Good thing the car sits idle pretty much constantly. I have extra pipe to take care of it. Thanks for noticing, guys.

Edit - fixed. Not sure how I missed the kink the first time but I am going to chalk it up to pure exhaustion and frustration.


Imperador do Brasil fucked around with this message at 01:02 on Dec 15, 2020

Tomarse
Mar 7, 2001

Grr



Imperador do Brasil posted:

Crap you’re right - I must have missed that in the frenzy of the day. Good thing the car sits idle pretty much constantly. I have extra pipe to take care of it. Thanks for noticing, guys.

Edit - fixed. Not sure how I missed the kink the first time but I am going to chalk it up to pure exhaustion and frustration.




Nice one fixing it. Is there no way of routing that pipe differently to reduce the extreme bends in it.

I have found with my own project vehicle jobs I often have to say "gently caress this" and give up for the night otherwise I end up trying to send stuff like that.

Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific



Tomarse posted:

Nice one fixing it. Is there no way of routing that pipe differently to reduce the extreme bends in it.

I have found with my own project vehicle jobs I often have to say "gently caress this" and give up for the night otherwise I end up trying to send stuff like that.

No, that’s really the only good way. That’s the OEM routing as well. If that big tab in the upright wasn’t there it would be a simple 90° bend, since the flexible hose connection is essentially right next to the bottom of the strut body. It only took about 30 minutes to fix including calling my son from downstairs to pump the brake pedal for bleeding.

It’s only very recently that I’ve been able to stop a project in the middle and take the night off/sleep on it. In the past I wasn’t able to make my brain turn off and relax ever. This was one of those “push through the frustration” situations after I’d had to cut all the passenger side bolts and deal with the broken OEM brake pipes and unexpectedly replacing the wheel cylinders when the fittings all rounded off from being seized. Good times.

chrisgt
Sep 6, 2011

:getin:

Imperador do Brasil posted:

Crap you’re right - I must have missed that in the frenzy of the day. Good thing the car sits idle pretty much constantly. I have extra pipe to take care of it. Thanks for noticing, guys.

Edit - fixed. Not sure how I missed the kink the first time but I am going to chalk it up to pure exhaustion and frustration.




If you can find a tightly coiled spring at the hardware store that the brake line fits inside of, it makes bending a lot easier. The spring keeps the sides from bulging out and kinking.
It doesn't work as well with brake line as bigger copper tube, but it still helps.

You can also fill the line with really fine sand to keep it from kinking on tight bends, but that's a mess to clean out.

Sometimes I have to resort to these methods in situations where there's no good alternate route and the factory route has a tiny radius.

Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific



chrisgt posted:

If you can find a tightly coiled spring at the hardware store that the brake line fits inside of, it makes bending a lot easier. The spring keeps the sides from bulging out and kinking.
It doesn't work as well with brake line as bigger copper tube, but it still helps.

You can also fill the line with really fine sand to keep it from kinking on tight bends, but that's a mess to clean out.

Sometimes I have to resort to these methods in situations where there's no good alternate route and the factory route has a tiny radius.

Funny enough the flaring tool kit I bought came with the coils but I didn’t notice the first time I did the job :doh:

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
I did my fuel line with fine sand in it. Don't know if it helped because the tool was good, but I'd like to think it might have.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
I have like 3 or 4 kinds of tubing benders (pliers, spool with handle, spool with funky slider thing on a lever arm, and another one I can't find that's another kind of pliers) but they're all poo poo so I usually do it by hand unless I have to, like in that spot.

I have that many because I keep buying them thinking "this one looks less like a piece of poo poo than the others and it's like ten bucks I'll give it a try" and then, well,













... It's a loving piece of poo poo too

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
With the reservation that I've used it once on a stainless steel (?) fuel line repair kit for an S10, the Eastwood bending tool performed as it should and I got 2 perfect 90 degree bends without kinks. It was the only tool that specifically said that it could handle steel etc though. Everything else was either for copper only, or expensive as hell (Rigid was like $250).

casque
Mar 17, 2009
Swagelok bending tools are great, but very expensive.

Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific



Today I put a snow pusher on my Kubota. I ordered it when I bought the tractor but the manufacturer has been apparently SLAMMED with retail orders so almost two months later, here it is. And just in time, too - we are supposed to get up to 18” of snow Wednesday into Thursday.

This will surely beat the pants off using a snow blower on my 500’ driveway...

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Hell yeah! Very nice.



I went with the power angle plow. Which you need to be very careful with or you'll bend your loader arms.

If I really need to bust through a pile it gets done in reverse.......



Box blades are great for plowing. Good weight back there and also useful for shoving.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

casque posted:

Swagelok bending tools are great, but very expensive.

Haven't lived until you borrow a flaring tool from the auto store and realize what a fruitless endeavor it would be. How knuckleheads destroy them into complete oblivion is fascinating.

bird cooch
Jan 19, 2007
I am looking at moving some machines into my shop, but I've never had to deal with wiring up three phase. The building has three phase to the main cut bix but not run all the way to the breaker box. Does anyone have any experience/resources for wiring it up?

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

bird cooch posted:

I am looking at moving some machines into my shop, but I've never had to deal with wiring up three phase. The building has three phase to the main cut bix but not run all the way to the breaker box. Does anyone have any experience/resources for wiring it up?

I'd suggest taking pictures of your existing panel boxes and posting them to The Wiring Thread, along with as many details as you can, especially the specifications of the equipment you're intending to install.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

angryrobots posted:

I'd suggest taking pictures of your existing panel boxes and posting them to The Wiring Thread, along with as many details as you can, especially the specifications of the equipment you're intending to install.

100% agreed. Also partially because I find it difficult to believe you have 3 phase available at your presumably residential building just sitting there.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
I'm incredibly jealous if you actually have 3 phase at your house. I have to run all my 3 phase junk on VFDs because the power company laughed at me when I asked, despite being like 1 block from industrial buildings that have it.

bird cooch
Jan 19, 2007

angryrobots posted:

I'd suggest taking pictures of your existing panel boxes and posting them to The Wiring Thread, along with as many details as you can, especially the specifications of the equipment you're intending to install.


Thank you . This is exactly what I was looking for.


Motronic posted:

100% agreed. Also partially because I find it difficult to believe you have 3 phase available at your presumably residential building just sitting there.

I have a freestanding shop with its own service. I'm pretty rural. It's on the pole box not at my shop. Or I could have been told wrong and then I will find out and have to learn about horrible converters.

kastein posted:

I'm incredibly jealous if you actually have 3 phase at your house. I have to run all my 3 phase junk on VFDs because the power company laughed at me when I asked, despite being like 1 block from industrial buildings that have it.

Is there a machining thread?!? I've always had machine access through work and now that I'm having to farm some of it out I really just need some simple stuff at the house to take care of most of my needs.

Edit: also I put this in the wrong thread on accident. I meant to drop it in the tool thread which even then was the wrong thread but at least it was in the right spirit?

bird cooch fucked around with this message at 06:08 on Dec 16, 2020

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

bird cooch posted:

I have a freestanding shop with its own service. I'm pretty rural. It's on the pole box not at my shop. Or I could have been told wrong and then I will find out and have to learn about horrible converters.

So start taking pictures. This shouldn't be difficult to figure out.

Even if it's at the pole it's still not all the cheap to get to the building. And this obviously depends on how far away the building is. And if the service is underground or overhead.

If this is a thing you're trying to do I'm pulling for you here, but it's just not likely to be quite this simple. And by simple I mean cheap. Money easily fixes anything like this.

Motronic fucked around with this message at 05:03 on Dec 16, 2020

bird cooch
Jan 19, 2007
Sorry y'all. I ment to post this question in the tools thread (that would have been the wrong thread anyway)

Here's some thread correct content.


I threw the motor back in so I can whip up some mounts tomorrow.

bird cooch fucked around with this message at 16:20 on Dec 16, 2020

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2905844&pagenumber=365&perpage=40

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3558051&pagenumber=46&perpage=40

Machining and metalworking threads

bird cooch
Jan 19, 2007

Much appreciated, thank you. I've actually never even opened up that subform before

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

Crossposting this follow-up to my earlier post here, cause it's Saturday and I'm bored!

angryrobots posted:

I installed a Group 48 AGM battery in my FoST.

So the FoST comes stock with a 96r battery. It's perfectly functional, but I wanted to go AGM after noticing that the PO installed battery had been leaking. From my research, the 96r is a less common size overall, and AGM options are slim and expensive. I didn't really think a high quality Odyssey battery is needed - I just wanted a middling quality AGM so it's sealed. The Escape community discovered some time ago that they could fit a larger 94r battery with slight modification, and that's fine but I really prefer to stick with OEM parts. The 94r also suffers from being a less common size, especially in AGM (note- some of the difficulty I had is possibly because battery stocks are low because of the pandemic. In the not so distant future, you may have more options).

As it happens, Ford also put a Group 48 (H6) battery in the Escape and Focus models with auto-start, including the RS. I did some digging though parts diagrams, and it appeared that the models with the Group 48 battery used the same box and mounting plate, with taller lids and mounting strap. So I ordered those new (will put parts #'s at the bottom), and was able to find an AGM battery locally at NAPA for $166. I went ahead and installed that, which I documented here in the "what you did today" thread. Pretty straightforward, actually the ST box lids fit. They're very tight, and may pop off if you hit a bad pothole, but they lasted a few hundred miles and are certainly fine if your battery died and you want to replace it right now.

The strap also fit with a couple large nuts as spacers. It works a lot better with the group 48 battery than the 94r, because the 48 has molded bits on the top for the strap to fit inside and prevent longitudinal movement (important since for any of these larger batteries you have to take out the motion restrictor things that are part of the 96r box assembly). I didn't even have to bend the strap or remove the handles like they did for the Escape 94r.



Anyway the new OEM bits arrived today so I could see if my Ford diagram Lego-Fu is still up to par.



New vs old.


You could get by with the ST lids, but IMO the correct strap is probably worth it. It fits very nicely.


Handles still fit under the new covers.


All buttoned up OEM like.


Oh yeah the RS airbox. I installed that some time ago because PO broke the stock one and it was the same price and the slight increase in whoosh whoosh noises appealed to my childishness.

I just wanted to mention that if you are installing any battery in a Focus of any variety, I think it's a lot easier to remove the airbox (which in turn is easier to remove by taking loose the intake tubing that goes behind the engine, first. Seriously it's like 3 bolts/straps just do it), and if you're removing the airbox make sure to lift it out while holding onto the rear support arm on the left side. Or else, it'll probably break like mine did for PO and you'll have an excuse to get a new RS box. This thing on the left rear as you're facing it. It's fragile.

You'll also want to reset the BMS. The reason I was in such a hurry to get the new battery slapped in there, is that my FIL was visiting and he had a laptop with Forscan, and appropriate high and low speed CANBUS adjustable OBD2 cable. So we did that, and removed the annoying as hell double horn honk (if you get out with it running and the key is in your pocket), which was practically life changing.

Parts:
Group 48 (H6) AGM battery $166.00
DV6Z-10718-A Hold Down Clamp $6.94
DV6Z-10A659-B Rear Cover $9.21
DV6Z-10A659-A Front Cover $11.23

You may want to make sure your battery hasn't been leaking already. If I had seen the corrosion that was on mine, I probably would have just bought a new battery box and mounting plate while they are still current and available parts. Now mine are cleaned and repainted and it's FINE but I might still replace them later.

That's all, thanks for skimming my effortpost.

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik
Just a vacuum, wash, and quick wax. Heading to the dealership tomorrow to pick up some replacement plastic trim clips for the engine bay, etc to get it into 100% shape. I also need to bust out my paint touch up kit, this car has a chip on the hood that needs dealt with immediately.



Oh yeah, added a cheater bar for the built in tire iron. I’m eventually going to build a wood platform to help support the trunk floor, it is starting to sag down some.

devmd01 fucked around with this message at 14:24 on Dec 27, 2020

bird cooch
Jan 19, 2007
I accidentally made a piece of sheet metal into a ninja star and flung it across the room with a drill hard enough that it stuck into the wall.

Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 10 years!

bird cooch posted:

I accidentally made a piece of sheet metal into a ninja star and flung it across the room with a drill hard enough that it stuck into the wall.

"accidentally"

bird cooch
Jan 19, 2007
The second it popped loose of the vice it transitioned from doubler to ninja star

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat

angryrobots posted:

Crossposting this follow-up to my earlier post here, cause it's Saturday and I'm bored!

Hey I really appreciate this as a fellow FoST owner. Thank you.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Got new plates today, since the front one went missing last week. Grabbed a new front bracket at Walmart, since I assumed the front one got knocked off doing something stupid.

Nope. Bracket's intact (it is cracked, but not in a way that would let the plate run away). Screws are all there. Some fucker stole it. Probably happened at work - there's a large homeless camp nearby, and several people living in their cars near work as well. :sigh:

New one's easier to remember, at least. And I'm only out $7 and some annoyance (plus $6 for the bracket, but I'll return it since the old one is still usable).

The Door Frame
Dec 5, 2011

I don't know man everytime I go to the gym here there are like two huge dudes with raging high and tights snorting Nitro-tech off of each other's rock hard abs.
I think I fixed my car, I fiddled with the timing and it seems to run and start better, so maybe when I fixed the distributor last time, I didn't put it back exactly right and messed up the timing? Either way, it smells less like unburnt gas, hasn't lost any power, and heats up a little faster than it used to, but doesn't stay as hot. No clue what the engine temperature fluctuations mean, I thought retarding the timing was supposed to make it so it's always running hotter than a more advanced timing would, but I'm satisfied with "running" for right now

Now to wait until the next cold snap (or extremely humid/dry day, it hates any "extreme" weather) and see if I actually did fix it. And then to fix my hosed up brakes after that...


bird cooch posted:

I accidentally made a piece of sheet metal into a ninja star and flung it across the room with a drill hard enough that it stuck into the wall.

The real question is, were you wearing safety squints?

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Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


STR posted:

Got new plates today, since the front one went missing last week. Grabbed a new front bracket at Walmart, since I assumed the front one got knocked off doing something stupid.

Nope. Bracket's intact (it is cracked, but not in a way that would let the plate run away). Screws are all there. Some fucker stole it. Probably happened at work - there's a large homeless camp nearby, and several people living in their cars near work as well. :sigh:

New one's easier to remember, at least. And I'm only out $7 and some annoyance (plus $6 for the bracket, but I'll return it since the old one is still usable).

I don't even have the front plate bracket. My poo poo is screwed straight into the bumper cover. I'll pick one up when I get to a wrecking yard that has one intact. that and the roof rack crossbar.

Cross-post from my thread:

Darchangel posted:

With Christmas obligations done, I popped out and got the bushings done.
New hotness:


Looks right.

A 1" socket was the perfect size. Just a hair smaller than the bore of the control arm.


The jack bypassed a little initially, but once the bushing "popped", it pressed out smoothly.



Triple check:

:thumbsup:

As always, it took a little fiddling to get it started in straight, but once it was, away it went.


All in all, pretty easy (something I did *not* say while doing it, lest I tempt Fate.)

And back in it's home:


On a hunch, I bought a pair, and given that this control arm is relatively eay to get to, I went ahead and attacked the passenger side, too. There's very little room to swing a ratchet, much less a breaker bar, and I don't have a 12-point 17mm 1/2" drive socket, making positioning even more annoying. I ended up having to break the passenger side loose from the bolt end (which is a little less desirable,) and having to cheat the ratchet a bit:


It worked, though. And thank God I bought a cordless ratchet to get the nuts off once they are broken loose.
Free and clear:


...glad I listened to my gut and got the second bushing.

Second verse was same as the first.


Check the old bushings:

They've been wearing on metal-to-metal for a bit.


The clunk is gone transitioning from reverse to forward, and it no longer shudders under medium to hard braking. It may be my optimistic butt-dyno, but it feels a lot less "squishy" in the rear suspension, and if I'm not mistaken, it's sitting a skosh higher in the rear:


Hard to tell, since I don't have a "previous" dead side on, but here's a 3/4 from when I bought it:


Yeah, I think it is. Both that and the firmer feel make sense, since the bushing does provide some torsion-spring action when it's not separated from the shell...

Edit: and also popped out at lunch to get the AE86 inspected, so I can renew registration. It goes out end of the year. Then I need to sell the thing. I don't really like it all that much, and only drive it once or twice a month. It needs too much to make it satisfactory fro me to enjoy it, and I'd rather put that money into my Cutlass or RX-7(s).

Darchangel fucked around with this message at 22:35 on Dec 28, 2020

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