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highme posted:Anything I need to watch out for setting up these brakes? I’ve never done anything with hydraulic brakes on a bike, so any advice would be appreciated. Getting those copper inserts into the end of each line proved too much with the rain (my bench vise is not easily accessed). Without going into bleed, the one hiccup I've seen a couple of times on a new install is folks not tightening the screw that goes into the caliper/brake enough the first time. Shimano spec is something like 8 Nm, but on a fresh line you're compressing the olive down onto the housing, so that torque often doesn't get the olive compressed enough and you can get a leak. If you're screwing the bolt in and it's got about half of the threads exposed, you're probably not in enough. You'll usually have around 1/3 of the threads exposed when it's in properly. The new 105s require an adapter for the funnel on a bleed, and here's your generic "don't get mineral oil on the rotor or the brake pads" warning.
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Dec 21, 2020 13:31
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I wouldn’t worry too much about the calipers themselves, all Shimano flat mount calipers are the same, the only thing that differs is the paint.
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Dec 21, 2020 15:58
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squirrelnow posted:The new 105s require an adapter for the funnel on a bleed, and here's your generic "don't get mineral oil on the rotor or the brake pads" warning. Universal sold me a hydraulic bleed/fill kit, will that adapter be in there?
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Dec 21, 2020 17:57
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highme posted:Universal sold me a hydraulic bleed/fill kit, will that adapter be in there? If it was for current gen stuff then it should. It looks like this: https://www.competitivecyclist.com/shimano-st-r9120-funnel-adapter-o-ring
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Dec 21, 2020 22:10
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kgibson posted:Hey all, still no luck with this issue. I did end up swapping out pulleys and retrying b-screw and cable tension adjustments to no avail. I also tried adjusting the tension on the chain by moving the wheels around in the dropouts, but that didn't make much difference at all. I grabbed a quick vid of the noise I'm trying to address: I doesn't sound 100% indexed to me, I swap chains between my bikes and accidentally put a 9 speed chain on a 10 speed bike the chain would just catch on only the ramped part of the cogs. If you haven't thrown away the old components maybe swap back the chain to eliminate that., and /or the cassette.
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Dec 22, 2020 12:06
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Levitate posted:If it was for current gen stuff then it should. It looks like this: I haven't opened up that box yet, but I'll double check. Since it's been pouring rain the last couple of days I haven't really been able to do anything. So I've been thinking about this and want to clarify. I assumed that you fill from the levers once the brake lines have been installed etc., is this not the case? I did read a few shop manuals yesterday, but apparently focused on installs of components and not fluids because I never saw that. And another question that I think is self evident, but just wanted to confirm. My derailleur cabling did not come with any barrel adjusters. I went to harvest some out of my parts bin, but was thinking, do the shift cables not need them because they don't undergo the same stress that brake cables do?
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Dec 22, 2020 21:28
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highme posted:I haven't opened up that box yet, but I'll double check. Since it's been pouring rain the last couple of days I haven't really been able to do anything. So I've been thinking about this and want to clarify. I assumed that you fill from the levers once the brake lines have been installed etc., is this not the case? I did read a few shop manuals yesterday, but apparently focused on installs of components and not fluids because I never saw that. Usually I'll install the brake first to see if I'm okay with the brake line length or if I want to shorten it. At that point, if it's not a pre-bled system or I cut the line, I just bleed with the brake installed rather than remove anything. You could bleed with it off the bike, whatever's easier with your setup. It's not a bad thing to try if you end up still having air in the system after a bleed, since you can make the line more straight up and down, which will help force air bubbles out. Most of the time shift systems will have a barrel adjuster somewhere. The Ultegra rear derailleurs usually have one where the housing goes into the derailleur, if you want to skip the inline adjuster on that one, but personally I'd definitely throw one on the front derailleur line. I can never get those right without one.
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Dec 23, 2020 04:16
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Newer shimano FD has a built in tension adjuster too. Also follow the directions, it's different than ever other FD shimano has made.
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Dec 23, 2020 04:39
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mikemelbrooks posted:I doesn't sound 100% indexed to me, I swap chains between my bikes and accidentally put a 9 speed chain on a 10 speed bike the chain would just catch on only the ramped part of the cogs. If you haven't thrown away the old components maybe swap back the chain to eliminate that., and /or the cassette. I had to ditch the old cassette and chain, unfortunately, but I did double check that it's an 11sp chain (albeit 105 rather than Ultegra/DA, though I doubt that should make a difference) oriented the correct way. This leads me to wonder more about the hanger and whether it might be bent so I'm waiting on the tool to check it out. What I am confused by in all of this is that the chain doesn't skip and the shifting seems reasonably consistent and quick despite all the racket of noise. 🤷🏻♂️
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Dec 23, 2020 05:02
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I have a question about wheelbuilding and tubeless setups: my rear tire just blew off the rim, what did I screw up? I just built my first set of wheels (Velocity Cliffhanger 36h rims, Miche Primato hubs, Sapim Race spokes except for drive side rear Sapim Strong spokes, using the different thickness spokes to help compensate for the different tensions). I've set up tubeless once before with no issues (Hunt 4 Season Aero wheels and 38c Gravelking slicks) The rims have a max tension of 120kgf, so I built the rear drive side as close as I could get to it using a Park Tool tensionmeter I borrowed from a friend. Rear drive side tension was pretty much 110-120kgf, and with the hub's ~40% tension ratio, to get the dish correct the non drive side was around 50-55kgf. Tubeless tape was Velocity's valves and velotape, two layers (one up to each inside sidewall, overlapping in the middle). The build finished and I went to my garage to get the tubeless setup going. Inflated the rear tire (new Gravelking SK 50c) with a tube to get one bead seated, and levered the other bead mostly closed, enough that I could get things seated tubeless by removing the valve stem and using a floor pump. I put the finished rear wheel on the bike and pumped it up to 60psi (the listed max for the tires). Spun it a few times while I got things started on the front tubeless setup to distribute the sealant. No hissing or weird noises, it seemed to be sealed fine. As I was futzing with the front, with the rear wheel sitting motionless on the bike on the stand, there was an explosion. My right ear didn't hear an explosion, just started ringing... it was super loud. Sealant everywhere, tire sideways totally off the rim but 100% intact. I set the whole thing up again, but realized that the rim was no longer true (sigh). Brought it inside and measured the tensions again, a few NDS spokes are down to 40kgf and some of the drive side is down to 90ish, with a few as low as 85kgf. Gonna see if I can true it tomorrow or if the rim is just bent now. What happened here? Is my floor pump off and I put too much PSI in the tire? Something with the wheelbuild I'm missing? I did set up the new front wheel tubeless as well, and it seems to be fine (though I did pump it up to only 50psi to be safe). Man_of_Teflon fucked around with this message at 05:32 on Dec 23, 2020 |
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Dec 23, 2020 05:28
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Is it holding now? I can't think of anything in the wheel build process that would cause that, unless the wheel was SEVERELY out of true or round. I'd suspect faulty gauge and too much PSI, or a defective tire/rim bead. The gauge would have to be off by a lot though, like 50% or more. Inspect the rim/tire bead for any deformation, surprised it didn't deform just from blowing off.
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Dec 23, 2020 05:52
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eSporks posted:Newer shimano FD has a built in tension adjuster too. No kidding. The first time I worked on one of the current gen front derails, I was thinking that my entire wish list had been granted. It is pretty much a 5 step process, but after a few times it becomes second nature.
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Dec 23, 2020 05:54
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kgibson posted:Hey all, still no luck with this issue. I did end up swapping out pulleys and retrying b-screw and cable tension adjustments to no avail. I also tried adjusting the tension on the chain by moving the wheels around in the dropouts, but that didn't make much difference at all. I grabbed a quick vid of the noise I'm trying to address:
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Dec 23, 2020 05:56
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eSporks posted:Is it holding now? It held 20psi overnight just fine. I don't see any issues with the rim at all beyond it no longer being true; no tiny cracks or obvious bends to be seen. I was definitely surprised when the tire wasn't shredded given how loud the explosion was! edit: the rim is definitely bent now  I can true it, but the NDS spokes are now 50-75kgf with the DS spokes 105-135kgf, and it's still not quite as true as before. Dish is off a couple mm with the hub towards the DS too, despite the increased NDS tension. How bad of an idea is it to ride it like this and keep an eye on the tension?
Man_of_Teflon fucked around with this message at 16:18 on Dec 23, 2020 |
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Dec 23, 2020 14:59
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When it randomly goes to full taco, how annoying is it going to be sitting stranded wherever that happens? P.S. when you replace the rim, don't replace it with a Velocity one, they loving suck! Edit: my theory for the failure: Tubeless beads exert a lot of force on the rim bed, easily enough to drop tension by 20-30kgf. I suspect that the NDS tension on one spoke dropped enough to approach zero, the rim deflected in response, and that cascaded through the rest of the wheel. 50kgf just isn't an acceptable tension before mounting the tire, and the weakass rim bed that makes Velocity shout about max 120kgf is too big a constraint. Sorry that you got suckered by a brand that has been riding a reputation for quality that it hasn't actually had since moving to the US. bicievino fucked around with this message at 17:13 on Dec 23, 2020 |
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Dec 23, 2020 16:53
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Ah man that sucks to hear Velocity has a bad rep. Any favorite wide (25mm or so) touring rims, US built or not? And what's a good minimum NDS tension to shoot for? Does doing NDS radial help at all? Worst case I can rebuild these wheels with different rims, but I'm still stuck with the wide offset ratio of the rear hub (just over 40%).
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Dec 23, 2020 18:01
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You didn't mention a budget so DT Swiss TK540.
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Dec 23, 2020 18:15
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I often find myself using velocity rims despite the fact that the dent easily, have flat spots at the joints, and are expensive. Why? Because I build a wheel when something off the rack doesn't fit my needs and they make rims that other manufacturers just don't sell. Just try to find something else that is both rim brake and tubeless compatible in a size other than 700c. Panceti makes one in 650b and I can't find any alternative for 26". Sorry for your wheel building disaster. I am curious how tight of a fit the tire was on the rim. Did it pop up onto the bead shelf easily or did it take that full 60 psi, swearing, and soap to get it in position?
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Dec 23, 2020 18:35
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Man_of_Teflon posted:Ah man that sucks to hear Velocity has a bad rep. Any favorite wide (25mm or so) touring rims, US built or not? If you chose to rebuild, after it is unlaced hold that rim against some glass to see how bent it really is.
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Dec 23, 2020 18:45
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Salt Fish posted:You didn't mention a budget so DT Swiss TK540. This one's a bit narrow in comparison. The only other 700c rim I'm finding that is 25mm+ ID and can take rim brakes is the Ryde Andra 40 (conveniently the same ERD), which seems fairly cheap at around $55 shipped from Europe. Any issues with Ryde as a brand? CopperHound posted:Sorry for your wheel building disaster. I am curious how tight of a fit the tire was on the rim. Did it pop up onto the bead shelf easily or did it take that full 60 psi, swearing, and soap to get it in position? Mounting it tubeless was doable with just a floor pump, no soap. Just used a tube to get one side 100% seated, and then levered as much of the other side up onto the bead as I could. Pumping fast into a valve with the core taken out got it to catch enough to build pressure, and it popped up completely around 30-40psi I'd say. I got everything back on the bike and rode it up and down the alley at around 35psi. No creaking/popping noises or surprises, though I do see that one spot on the side of the tire does dip a little lower, as if the bead isn't out all the way. Plus the dish of the wheel is still a couple mm off, which made adjusting the brakes interesting.
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Dec 23, 2020 19:58
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eSporks posted:It sounds like the chain is trying to climb gears. Does the sound go away if you turn the barrel adjuster clockwise 2-5 clicks? If yes, cool. Does it still run smooth in the larger cogs? If yes, cool. If no, check the der. hanger. So this is what gets me wondering about the hanger: adjusting the barrel counter clockwise seems to help the shifting and the noise on the small cogs but then in turn worsens it on the larger ones. My understanding is that that's typical of a bent/misaligned hanger...?
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Dec 23, 2020 20:43
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Man_of_Teflon posted:Ah man that sucks to hear Velocity has a bad rep. Any favorite wide (25mm or so) touring rims, US built or not? Do you mean 25 internal? That's quite wide for rim brake - I don't think I have any personal experience with that combination. If you didn't need rim brake it'd be a lot easier to find. DT are my current strong preference for "workhorse aluminum rims" - good value, good construction, super easy to build up evenly. Astral are nice but expensive, and fewer choices. Edit: no personal experience with Ryde rims.
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Dec 23, 2020 20:47
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It has proved doable to set up cantis for rim braking on a rim that wide. I would go discs, but I really like my 64cm Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross frame. If I ever do make the switch though I will check out DT rims, thanks!
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Dec 23, 2020 20:53
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Man_of_Teflon posted:It has proved doable to set up cantis for rim braking on a rim that wide. I would go discs, but I really like my 64cm Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross frame. Please report back about the Rydes if you do try 'em.
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Dec 23, 2020 21:30
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kgibson posted:So this is what gets me wondering about the hanger: adjusting the barrel counter clockwise seems to help the shifting and the noise on the small cogs but then in turn worsens it on the larger ones. My understanding is that that's typical of a bent/misaligned hanger...?
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Dec 23, 2020 22:26
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Shifting being fine on one side and poo poo on the other is bent hanger 80% of the time bad cable or housing 15% of the time extremely bad chainline 5% of the time and lol glhf trying random things until it starts working again 1% of the time.
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Dec 23, 2020 23:01
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Man_of_Teflon posted:Any issues with Ryde as a brand? Not being tubeless is a big minus for me though. CopperHound fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Dec 23, 2020 |
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Dec 23, 2020 23:20
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eSporks posted:It's definitely where I would start. EvilJoven posted:Shifting being fine on one side and poo poo on the other is bent hanger 80% of the time bad cable or housing 15% of the time extremely bad chainline 5% of the time and lol glhf trying random things until it starts working again 1% of the time. The hanger alignment tool is supposed to show up Monday so I'll report back then. Thanks for the help with this!
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Dec 23, 2020 23:26
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kgibson posted:The hanger alignment tool is supposed to show up Monday so I'll report back then. Thanks for the help with this!
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Dec 24, 2020 00:03
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The abbey one is an absolute dream to use, and the price difference is worth it over the park if you use it regularly. From home use, anything that gauges against the rim will be fine though.
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Dec 24, 2020 00:59
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eSporks posted:The abbey one is an absolute dream to use, and the price difference is worth it over the park if you use it regularly.
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Dec 24, 2020 01:13
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squirrelnow posted:Usually I'll install the brake first to see if I'm okay with the brake line length or if I want to shorten it. At that point, if it's not a pre-bled system or I cut the line, I just bleed with the brake installed rather than remove anything. You could bleed with it off the bike, whatever's easier with your setup. It's not a bad thing to try if you end up still having air in the system after a bleed, since you can make the line more straight up and down, which will help force air bubbles out. Thanks again. I'm pretty sure I'll have to bleed the brakes after their installed as I've having enough issues just fishing the housing/brake lines through the internal routing, not sure how I'm getting a caliper or lever through there  It was dry & sunny today so I knocked off work a bit early to do some wrenching. Got the derailleurs & cables measured and mounted. Rear seems to work without any issue (aside from needing to be tuned). The cable doesn't seem to want to seat into the shifter for the front correctly, so nothing happens with that lever. My hands had pretty much stopped functioning because of the cold at that point and I still wanted to get brake lines mounted and measured. I now just need to move an old electric Viking range out of the way to get access to my bench vise. Or, more likely, I'm going to load up my truck w/ my bike, stand and tools and head to my friend's heated empty garage this weekend where I don't have to move anything to get access to the bench vise.
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Dec 24, 2020 02:26
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Hey all! Two maintenance questions: 1) I put sealant in the tubes for my mountain bike so preserve the tubes and make them last longer. It ended up gunking up one of the valves, to the point where it sealed up and I can't put any more air in the tire. Luckily it's a presta valve with a removable core, so I should be able to get it out and de-gunk the valve area. Has anyone experienced this before? any tips? any dies for how to prevent this in the future? 2) One of my front forks is now leaking oil. I was planning on taking it to a shop to get it looked at- is that an easy fix I might be able to do myself?
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Dec 24, 2020 06:36
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Gstu posted:Hey all! Is this a troll post? Why are you putting sealant in tubes?
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Dec 24, 2020 07:25
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Gstu posted:2) One of my front forks is now leaking oil. I was planning on taking it to a shop to get it looked at- is that an easy fix I might be able to do myself? For a car analogy: Does rebuilding a carburetor seem like something you could do? e: Judging by the first question, I'm guessing the answer is no. CopperHound fucked around with this message at 07:40 on Dec 24, 2020 |
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Dec 24, 2020 07:37
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I've heard of riders using slime in their tubes in areas where goat heads weed is all over the place for what its worth. (in bmx)
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Dec 24, 2020 07:47
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Hi, I have a Trek FX1 that I want to sell since I got a proper road bike. After I made some front deraileur adjustments to it my chain will very occasionally seize up. If I stop pedaling for a moment it’ll keep going just fine. I can’t recall whether or not this happens when I shift or not. Anyone know what it might be? Not sure whether or not it’s related but the shop I got the bike from caked the whole drivetrain in that thick, black bike grease. It sucks and I hate it. I used a whole can of degreaser trying to get it off but didn’t quite get it all. After that I put regular chain lube on it. Was that bad and could it be causing the seizing? I think the best way to guarantee getting the grease off would be to soak the whole drivetrain in evapo-rust but i don’t want to take the whole thing apart. Maybe I should throw another can of degreaser at it first. I’ve also noticed there are a couple links in the chain that need a bit of force applied to then to bend, could that be the problem? I’d like to fix the issue before selling it, I don’t want someone getting a bike with problems.
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Dec 24, 2020 11:47
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VelociBacon posted:Is this a troll post? Why are you putting sealant in tubes?
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Dec 24, 2020 11:52
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Orange Seal in tubes works great to seal/prevent flats. To answer the question: just pull the valve out and clean it, and if it’s gunked up beyond cleaning pop a new valve in.
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Dec 24, 2020 16:04
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Dren posted:Not sure whether or not it’s related but the shop I got the bike from caked the whole drivetrain in that thick, black bike grease. It sucks and I hate it. I used a whole can of degreaser trying to get it off but didn’t quite get it all. After that I put regular chain lube on it. Was that bad and could it be causing the seizing? I'm very surprised the shop let you pick it up in that condition... Take a pic, but I think your fastest solution would be to replace the chain. If it's a 9spd, it wouldn't be that pricy, either.
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Dec 24, 2020 18:20
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