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Residency Evil posted:Jesus Christ I read all of these guides about setting up my UniFi APs properly, decreasing how much power they’re using for the antenna, and this piece of poo poo Peloton kept on giving me authentication errors because it kept on trying to connect to the AP in the basement instead of the one 15 feet away. In Palpatine’s voice: “Yeeees, let the cancer waves flow through you!”
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Dec 27, 2020 21:03
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Amazon poo poo is really bad at picking the right APs as well. I have to go into the controller and kick them occasionally so the stupid loving things join the right AP. Apple devices though, spot loving on in roaming. I tuned my cell sizes as well and at this point I've blanketed my house enough that with the exception of one floor, the weakest signal I see is -60 dBm which is pretty loving good. Posting to share that the point of L3 switches just clicked for me. I'm moving my work PC/NAS onto its own VLAN finally, as I probably "should", and am going to set up the firewall rules to basically just pass RDP and SSH. It finally occurred to me now that if I was ever going to do a high-bandwidth transfer, despite my personal PC being plugged into the same switch, it's all going to go back to the ER-4 and back out again on the same 1Gb/s link from the ER-4 to my core switch, and if any other traffic was happening on that link (unlikely in home environment besides streaming), performance would theoretically be limited. Now blatantly obvious to me why a L3 switch in a production environment is so loving useful because it solves that problem in hardware and doesn't load down the firewall / router. Maybe I only 80% understand it though, because you still need rules somewhere, and I've never used the L3 switching capability before, but I assume it gives you some basic capability in that regard? I think what I'm going to end up doing is using the unused eth1 or eth2 on my ER-4 for the work VLAN and run it to my core switch, to do it "right" in the sense that while the traffic still needs to hit my ER-4, it won't at least use the other 1Gb/s link for the other VLAN to do it. So, to test (and be completely useless), I should be able to Speedtest at ~900Mbit whilst simultaneously doing an inter-VLAN file copy at 900Mbit/s as well. This all becomes moot if (not when) Ubiquiti releases L3 switching support for the U6-S24, but for now, I think my understanding is correct? My VLAN usage has been limited to mostly firewalling off IoT poo poo, so the thought of eating ER-4 bandwidth never crossed my mind.
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Dec 27, 2020 22:53
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You have the gist of it, but a L3 switch is just a router. Going inter vlan will still depend on your topology and how you carve up vlans.
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Dec 27, 2020 23:39
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Going crazy here. 1. Previously, I used the iOS app to manage/provision my UniFi Aps and they worked flawlessly. 2. When I tried using my Macbook as a UniFi controller, I seem to be getting constant AP disconnections. All of the connected clients will all of a sudden be unable to connect. Then, magically, it will work on 1/2 of them for 5 minutes, then it stops working again, while I notice that for some reason the APs show up in provisioning mode when I open up my macbook controller. 3. I said "gently caress it," reset everything to work via the iOS app, and everything is flawless again. What's going on? From googling, it looks like using my macbook as a Unifi controller may be causing this due to the Wifi aggressively sleeping and the APs trying to find the controller, and being unable to. Is that the case?
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Dec 28, 2020 01:41
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Residency Evil posted:Going crazy here. How did you perform the migration? I haven't used the phone app to directly manage UniFi devices before, but I know that from migrating devices between controllers can end up being difficult unless you just perform a factory reset on the devices. The APs will always be trying to reach out to a controller, but that is expected behavior and if everything is set up correctly won't cause the issues you're describing. If the migration didn't go well, the APs may be trying to reprovision from the app controller while still being managed from the new controller.
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Dec 28, 2020 02:02
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Actuarial Fables posted:How did you perform the migration? I haven't used the phone app to directly manage UniFi devices before, but I know that from migrating devices between controllers can end up being difficult unless you just perform a factory reset on the devices. Performed via a factory reset. I think I *may* have solved the problem by disabling: Uplink Connectivity Monitor: https://community.ui.com/questions/What-does-Uplink-Connectivity-monitor-do/71f61274-8276-40d8-8a85-1b7e0b483e03 Auto-optimize Network: https://community.ui.com/questions/MacBook-Pro-Will-Not-Connect-to-Unifi-WiFi/da8ac4b0-83af-4cbd-828e-7a43dc74aee7 Apparently Apple runs pretty aggressive power savings on their wifi cards. If your controller is on a wifi macbook, and the above features enabled, the APs try to ping the controller, can't, and then end up in some sort of provisioning mode until they can find the controller again (I think), which means connectivity ends up failing. So far, things have been up for 20 minutes or so and all is well.
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Dec 28, 2020 02:15
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Residency Evil posted:Performed via a factory reset. Auto-optimize network, Wi-Fi AI, basically every single setting in UniFi that claims to "automatically" do things should be turned the gently caress off, IMO. My setup has been quite painless with all of the overly-clever "auto" features disabled. I did have to enable the uplink connectivity monitor, but that's only because I have a U6-Extender in play that forced it to be on.
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Dec 28, 2020 02:41
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I really, really hate myself for even feeling a need to ask this question, but...... does it make ANY difference what brand of Cat6 cables I use? For high-speed gigabit internet/ethernet, gaming, 4K ultra HD streaming poo poo, etc? We just had some new ethernet wall ports installed in our house, and I’m replacing our old Cat5 cables with Cat6 ones. I want to get multicolored cables so I can easily tell what they’re all hooked up to whenever I have to gently caress around with them, but maaaaaan looking at this longass list of search results is giving me a loving headache. It might be nice to cut the list down a bit by excluding a particular brand name or two.
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Dec 28, 2020 08:06
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I. M. Gei posted:I really, really hate myself for even feeling a need to ask this question, but...... does it make ANY difference what brand of Cat6 cables I use? For high-speed gigabit internet/ethernet, gaming, 4K ultra HD streaming poo poo, etc? If you're in the US, Monoprice has a great selection of sizes/lengths at their website, and the cables have a lifetime warranty. I like their FLEXboot series.
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Dec 28, 2020 08:17
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KKKLIP ART posted:Optimum doesn't seem to have a supported modem list on their website, but here is a list from some rando website: lol i’m lucky if i get 200mb down
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Dec 28, 2020 08:59
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I. M. Gei posted:I really, really hate myself for even feeling a need to ask this question, but...... does it make ANY difference what brand of Cat6 cables I use? For high-speed gigabit internet/ethernet, gaming, 4K ultra HD streaming poo poo, etc? Hard to go wrong with Monoprice. Colors are really useful for sorting poo poo out, but the second you don’t follow your system, the whole thing becomes useless. Otherwise... shielded vs non, probably don’t need to worry about shielding for patch cords. The really slim ones are nice, but longer runs of them (which would be odd) may have more voltage drop for PoE applications... which still shouldn’t really matter for patch cables. 5 or 10 packs of the assorted Monoprice Cat6 slim runs will probably cover you for everything.
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Dec 28, 2020 09:17
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movax posted:Auto-optimize network, Wi-Fi AI, basically every single setting in UniFi that claims to "automatically" do things should be turned the gently caress off, IMO. My setup has been quite painless with all of the overly-clever "auto" features disabled. Woke up this morning and everything was rock solid again. Seems like those automatic things were really loving things up. Don't know why I was worried about the Edge Router X not being able to keep up with gigabit fiber: my recent speedtests have barely been pushing 300-400. 
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Dec 28, 2020 14:13
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I. M. Gei posted:I really, really hate myself for even feeling a need to ask this question, but...... does it make ANY difference what brand of Cat6 cables I use? For high-speed gigabit internet/ethernet, gaming, 4K ultra HD streaming poo poo, etc? You shouldn't be replacing them unless you have a problem. Don't throw money away. If you do insist on it because you're you, use monoprice. I have wired datacenters with their cables.
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Dec 28, 2020 16:17
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I. M. Gei posted:I really, really hate myself for even feeling a need to ask this question, but...... does it make ANY difference what brand of Cat6 cables I use? For high-speed gigabit internet/ethernet, gaming, 4K ultra HD streaming poo poo, etc? Is it Cat5 or Cat5e you're replacing? Cat5e is much more common, and I can't see why you'd want to replace it, unless it was the absolute cheapest copper-clad aluminium shite going. Unless you literally require 10Gbit networking everywhere, there isn't a benefit to replacing that cabling, it's more than enough for flawless 1Gbit performance, and 2.5Gbit is also perfectly fine on it, with 5Gbit being length limited Edit: I guess there was a nugget of information in there, the actual conductor material. Pure copper for life, yo HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 16:52 on Dec 28, 2020 |
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Dec 28, 2020 16:48
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Residency Evil posted:Jesus Christ I read all of these guides about setting up my UniFi APs properly, decreasing how much power they’re using for the antenna, and this piece of poo poo Peloton kept on giving me authentication errors because it kept on trying to connect to the AP in the basement instead of the one 15 feet away. Yeah some client devices are quite stupid when it comes to this. And you are kind of at the mercy of the client device in this situation. Unifi has a "minimum RSSI" feature that can help somewhat.. it will force disassociation with a client that has a very low signal, with the hopes it will connect to the better AP when it tries to re-connect. I have this enabled at some locations at my work, as it was the only way to get the stupid Symbol mobile computers (Windows CE based, ugh) to connect to the better AP.
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Dec 28, 2020 17:26
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Cheap router alert: TP-Link Archer C8 for $40 shipped
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Dec 28, 2020 19:38
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Oysters Autobio posted:Just wanted to follow up to hopefully a conclusion to this one, thanks to everyone for the help and troubleshooting. So I finally got around to dealing with this by installing the new router (TP-Link AC1750) I bought. To summarize: I've been having speed problems. When I'm running from my PC through a gigabit switch, into my new router and then into the modem, I'm getting speeds throttled down to 30mpbs. When I run a CAT6 cable direct from my ethernet card on my PC to the modem, I'm getting my proper speeds of 200-300mpbs. What the hell else could it be? Obviously the ISP is fine, modem is fine, the cable is fine, the ethernet port is fine. I even changed the cable that ran between the modem and router. The router is listed as having a Gigabit ethernet port (it's why I swapped it out for my old TP-Link Archer), so I don't know what's going on. Oysters Autobio fucked around with this message at 20:44 on Dec 28, 2020 |
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Dec 28, 2020 20:42
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Residency Evil posted:Don't know why I was worried about the Edge Router X not being able to keep up with gigabit fiber: my recent speedtests have barely been pushing 300-400. Make sure hwnat is enabled if this isn't an ISP issue.
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Dec 28, 2020 21:06
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Oysters Autobio posted:So I finally got around to dealing with this by installing the new router (TP-Link AC1750) I bought. Have you tested PC - Router - Modem to rule out the switch?
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Dec 28, 2020 21:07
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astral posted:Make sure hwnat is enabled if this isn't an ISP issue. First thing I tried unfortunately. If I'm only getting 300-400 the Edge Router is unlikely to be the culprit, right?
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Dec 28, 2020 22:22
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Residency Evil posted:First thing I tried unfortunately. If I'm only getting 300-400 the Edge Router is unlikely to be the culprit, right? Not necessarily. Can you post an exported config from the router? Make sure you scrub your PPPOE cress, etc. If you have DPI or QoS on, they can also significantly impact the throughout.
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Dec 28, 2020 22:32
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H110Hawk posted:You shouldn't be replacing them unless you have a problem. Don't throw money away. We do. Our internet has been having speed and connectivity problems for years now. Our entire home networking setup is a tangled labyrinthian mess of old cables and probably-unsafe extension cord connections, slapped together haphazardly over a period of many years by a dumb old computer-ignorant boomer. Most of our poo poo has been running on lovely wi-fi from a lovely wi-fi router for Christ knows how long and desperately needs a physical ethernet connection, and also I’m replacing our old lovely wi-fi router with a new one that doesn’t suck poo poo. All of this requires replacing a bunch of old rear end ethernet cables as well as getting some new ones. Which reminds me, I also need to get some new power strips/surge protectors. HalloKitty posted:Is it Cat5 or Cat5e you're replacing? Cat5e is much more common, and I can't see why you'd want to replace it, unless it was the absolute cheapest copper-clad aluminium shite going. Unless you literally require 10Gbit networking everywhere, there isn't a benefit to replacing that cabling, it's more than enough for flawless 1Gbit performance, and 2.5Gbit is also perfectly fine on it, with 5Gbit being length limited Everything I’m replacing is Cat5 and not Cat5e. astral posted:If you're in the US, Monoprice has a great selection of sizes/lengths at their website, and the cables have a lifetime warranty. I like their FLEXboot series. movax posted:Hard to go wrong with Monoprice. Colors are really useful for sorting poo poo out, but the second you don’t follow your system, the whole thing becomes useless. Alright sweet! Monoprice it is, then. Thanks for the recs!
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Dec 28, 2020 22:32
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It could be if hardware acceleration is turned off. That's what they are trying to tell you. Check to make sure it's turned on and test without your router. Just make sure your computer firewall is turned on and the connection is set to public so it blocks everything.
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Dec 28, 2020 22:33
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Residency Evil posted:First thing I tried unfortunately. If I'm only getting 300-400 the Edge Router is unlikely to be the culprit, right? What's the output of: code:
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Dec 28, 2020 22:39
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Hello network thread. I'm looking for some advice on upgrading my network that I threw together when we moved in 2 years ago. Here is the current setup:  Which is entirely unmanaged. The additional SSIDs don't really do anything, I was just playing around with the access points when I got them. The 2nd floor switch is only really there because I couldn't fit 2 Cat5s down the tube in the wall. Here is the proposed upgrade:  Main goals are to keep the IoT items off the internet, and keep guests (when having guests becomes a thing again) only on the internet, and possible future-proofing (thermostat, maybe cameras). I'm looking to stay in the Ubiquiti ecosystem if possible. Questions: - What router should I be looking at? USG or something in the Edge section? - I think the 60W 8-port switch will do the job - Is the thing I want to do possible? iPhone on the "main" network, which can talk to IoT devices on their closed network, but they can't see the internet? I'll teach myself how to do all this, just want to make sure it's possible with the kit I'm looking at - If so, is the run up to the two upper access points ok via an unmanaged switch? Or do they each need their own port in a managed switch to do that? - Any value in creating a VLAN for the TV stuff, which can see the internet but is somehow more secure than the regular one? Getting the phone and TV service to work is low priority - they current plug into the ISP's router, but we don't really use them (in fact I could ditch them and go from 100 to 500 meg for the same money).
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Dec 28, 2020 22:52
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astral posted:What's the output of: It's this: quote:IPSec offload module: loaded rufius posted:Not necessarily. Anything in particular you want? looks like the config ends up exported as a tar with a bunch of files.
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Dec 29, 2020 00:24
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Residency Evil posted:It's this: Oh hmmm. So if you unpack the tar file there should be something that’s obviously the config file. I’ll export mine when I get home and see if I can figure out the specific file.
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Dec 29, 2020 01:00
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Residency Evil posted:Anything in particular you want? looks like the config ends up exported as a tar with a bunch of files. So looking at the system tab, I clicked "Download" under the "Configuration Management & Device Maintenance" heading. That gave me one .tar file and inside that, the config.boot is what has the values I care about. That said, the values you pasted above said that the hwnat offload module was enabled. Also looks like traffic monitoring was disabled. Next on my list is trying new cables and having the ISP check their hardware.
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Dec 29, 2020 01:52
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rufius posted:So looking at the system tab, I clicked "Download" under the "Configuration Management & Device Maintenance" heading. That gave me one .tar file and inside that, the config.boot is what has the values I care about. I conveniently forgot that the AP that's likely giving the strongest signal just happens to be upstairs, and connected via Moca bridges. I just looked up how fast a moca bridge is. Oh. I'm using an old verizon G1100 router as a Moca Bridge, which is Moca 2.0, and an actiontec bonded Moca 2.0 adapter, so presumably, I'm limited to Moca 2.0 speeds (500mbps), correct? If I get a 2.5 Moca bridge and pair it with my bonded 2.0 adapter, will I get bonded 2.0 speeds? Residency Evil fucked around with this message at 03:16 on Dec 29, 2020 |
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Dec 29, 2020 02:48
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Residency Evil posted:I conveniently forgot that the AP that's likely giving the strongest signal just happens to be upstairs, and connected via Moca bridges. I just looked up how fast a moca bridge is. Ah. That’ll do it. You have ventured into a land I do not know much of. I will let folks more versed in Moca to handle this. My wild guess, based on previous experience with networking is you get the speed of the slowest component. So I’m betting yes, Moca 2.0 speeds.
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Dec 29, 2020 03:46
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TITTIEKISSER69 posted:Cheap router alert: TP-Link Archer C8 for $40 shipped Thank you for this. Just picked one up.
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Dec 29, 2020 06:35
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Do I need a battery back-up surge protector for home computer and networking stuff? Or is a basic surge protector/power strip gonna be enough? I do like the idea of my computer not getting destroyed or going out in the event of a power surge/outage.
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Dec 29, 2020 09:50
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Unless your have like a 2k+ computer I think any surge protector you would find in a store would rated for more enough joules where the likelihood of it cooking your computer is basically nil. I mean you can find ones with tons of sockets rated for 3k joules for 30 bucks if that which my understanding is overkill.
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Dec 29, 2020 10:48
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I. M. Gei posted:Everything I’m replacing is Cat5 and not Cat5e. Fair enough, that's some crusty old cable
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Dec 29, 2020 14:10
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hello all new house owner here. What sort of professional should I be looking for to run cat6 drops throughout my home? Want to do 4 rooms and the basement. I'm very excited at the prospect of a mostly wired network.
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Dec 29, 2020 14:57
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The term you want to look for is "low voltage wiring or low voltage cabling contractor / technician / installer. "
Internet Explorer fucked around with this message at 15:26 on Dec 29, 2020 |
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Dec 29, 2020 15:24
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KidDynamite posted:hello all new house owner here. What sort of professional should I be looking for to run cat6 drops throughout my home? Want to do 4 rooms and the basement. I'm very excited at the prospect of a mostly wired network. Internet Explorer posted:The term you want to look for is "low voltage wiring or low voltage cabling contractor / technician / installer. " You can also find home theater and home automation contractors that will do the work. That said, if they’re busy they may pass on your job if it’s not lucrative enough.
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Dec 29, 2020 15:55
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KidDynamite posted:hello all new house owner here. What sort of professional should I be looking for to run cat6 drops throughout my home? Want to do 4 rooms and the basement. I'm very excited at the prospect of a mostly wired network. i went through a local hifi installer
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Dec 29, 2020 17:44
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Do those guys typically patch drywall and things? I’m hitting the limit of what I think is possible running my own cable without just sucking it up and cutting big rear end holes in drywall + pulling floorboards. I’m at the point of removing can lights to get ceiling access and using a bore scope to scout where things are and I can’t imagine contractors that want to maximize jobs per hour would want to deal with any of this.
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Dec 29, 2020 19:16
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movax posted:Do those guys typically patch drywall and things? I’m hitting the limit of what I think is possible running my own cable without just sucking it up and cutting big rear end holes in drywall + pulling floorboards. I’m at the point of removing can lights to get ceiling access and using a bore scope to scout where things are and I can’t imagine contractors that want to maximize jobs per hour would want to deal with any of this. I had a low voltage tech come out to give me an estimate for running some additional drops. He said that I would need to get somebody else in there after him to do the drywall work.
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Dec 29, 2020 21:28
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