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IPA will release hotglue very effectively.
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Jan 6, 2021 01:21
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The SKR Mini E3 is the way to go, gently caress the default creality boards.
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Jan 6, 2021 01:37
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:The SKR Mini E3 is the way to go, gently caress the default creality boards. This is what I upgraded to recently and so far so good. For anyone interested make sure to get the V2 and not the V1.2 as the latter seems to have some issue with hotend temperature fluctuations.
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Jan 6, 2021 01:39
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I'll stan for the ender 5 pro as a starter+ hobby printer with the essential QoL upgrades preinstalled. There is, of course, a decent list of things that are pretty bad out of the box, and no real resource for stepping someone through it (i found, then lost, one excellent reddit post that probably saved me dozens of hours just by giving me the "here's where to look" short-list). On the other hand, these kinds of failures have forced me to syetrmatically learn and understand the machine way more than one that just worked out of the box, which is cool, and hasn't really taken more than 5-6 hours and a single spool of filament.
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Jan 6, 2021 02:23
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Rexxed posted:There's official creality enclosures that seem to be decent, but you could also make your own or repurpose a grow tent. Those soft photo box things are another cheap option that work well, and you can get one that'll be comfortably large enough for under twenty bucks. I use a half-assed version of the Ikea Lack enclosure that a lot of people seem to like. I just bolted the Lack down to my workstation table and used flexible greenhouse plastic around it. Works pretty well for my purposes since my printer is in a conditioned room, it's just a part of the house where I keep the thermostat turned down since we're not usually down there. The greenhouse plastic insulates well enough to keep the print area warm and protected from drafts, but not so well that I'm worried about frying anything electronic. I don't think the enclosure even cost me $15 in total to build.
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Jan 6, 2021 05:39
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Well I was just able to install the SKR Mini E3 v2 in my Ender 3 Pro with EZABL and a filament sensor in about an hour flat. TH3DStudio has a really great walkthrough for compiling their unified firmware and that worked first try. Thing is freaky silent now, very cool!
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Jan 6, 2021 06:51
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I had to completely disassemble and reassemble my printer but I did it. I fixed my leaning prints. The whole bed assembly had tilted downward towards the front by like 1 degree.
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Jan 6, 2021 06:55
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I suspect not just because of the nature of the beast, but is there a filament that flexes rather than shatters when put under stress? I don't mean something rubbery like TPU, I mean more like the stuff squeeze bottles are made of. UV resistance and non-ridiculous printing conditions would be an advantage. The particular use case is the hinges for my shed I've posted about before. I've made them in ASA and they work well enough, but if I absent-mindedly put downward load on the door (or the frame of the door flexes too much) it shatters. I'm going to try adding a bit of meat to the areas that break but obviously as it's a moving part I can't add too much, and bump it up to like 85% infill, but the original part is made of a much more flexible plastic (almost certainly because of this problem) so if possible I'd like to go that way - I think it'd also be useful for a few other ideas I have.
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Jan 6, 2021 10:45
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TPU comes in many hardnesses, try one rated 98A
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Jan 6, 2021 11:07
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goddamnedtwisto posted:I suspect not just because of the nature of the beast, but is there a filament that flexes rather than shatters when put under stress? I don't mean something rubbery like TPU, I mean more like the stuff squeeze bottles are made of. UV resistance and non-ridiculous printing conditions would be an advantage. PETG, ABS. They're much tougher. You can also try Nylon. Also, more infill isn't more stronger. Walls/perimeters, tops and bottoms get you strength.
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Jan 6, 2021 11:16
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BMan posted:TPU comes in many hardnesses, try one rated 98A Would that also mean I'd be okay with my current extruder/feed rather than having to go direct-drive? I can see some cheap small spools on Amazon so it's probably worth experimenting with. Nerobro posted:PETG, ABS. They're much tougher. You can also try Nylon. Also, more infill isn't more stronger. Walls/perimeters, tops and bottoms get you strength. I was under the impression that ASA was almost as tough as ABS at least, but easier to print and UV-resistant?
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Jan 6, 2021 12:19
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Would that also mean I'd be okay with my current extruder/feed rather than having to go direct-drive? I can see some cheap small spools on Amazon so it's probably worth experimenting with. Traditional logic about TPU is that it's a bad idea to run with a Bowden setup, but none of my bowden-fed printers have had any trouble with it? Might have to do with better components and tuned slicer profiles though (also the extruder body itself being the dual drive gear type with a well constrained filament path). ASA is amazing stuff. It's not as easy to print as PLA (you still want an enclosure just to keep random air drafts from making it warp) but it's not as warp-prone as ABS, either. The UV-resistance is also a huge plus if you're wanting to print stuff to put in your car or whatever.
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Jan 6, 2021 13:11
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Traditional logic about TPU is that it's a bad idea to run with a Bowden setup, but none of my bowden-fed printers have had any trouble with it? Same here.. Rostock Max delta with a super long bowden tube. TPU works just fine, just can't use retraction or go faster than 15-20mm/sec.
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Jan 6, 2021 14:25
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How much of a thing is a dry storage box for filament while in storage/in use? Calgary Alberta, so generally dry, snowy winters
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Jan 6, 2021 15:16
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anecdotal: I keep PLA, TPU, ABS, PETG just sitting on a shelf. I keep nylons in eSUN boxes at 80C constantly. I have to bake anything better than them before use. I occasionally have to bake the nylons too.
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Jan 6, 2021 15:50
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I bought a 5015 fan for my Ender 3 but the cable is much too short. Can I just splice it onto the longer cable from the stock fan and re-sleeve it?
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Jan 6, 2021 15:58
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w00tmonger posted:How much of a thing is a dry storage box for filament while in storage/in use? Calgary Alberta, so generally dry, snowy winters I just keep mine in one of those vacuum storage bags - the ones you're supposed to use for clothes, blankets etc - with a handful of silica gel packets thrown in, although I think the more exotic stuff needs rather more careful handling.
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Jan 6, 2021 16:06
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Mikey Purp posted:I bought a 5015 fan for my Ender 3 but the cable is much too short. Can I just splice it onto the longer cable from the stock fan and re-sleeve it? Yup. I've got a shoddy system of badly soldered wires and pins connecting mine together and it works great.
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Jan 6, 2021 16:11
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Adding my 2 cents... I pretty much only use PLA with some PETG here and there. All 63 rolls of my filament are stacked on a shelf in a dark, cool, closet. No attempt has ever been made to dry any of them. I have some rolls of PLA that are 6 years old and print just as well now as they day they were opened. Yet my oldest roll of PETG (~1 year) pops and cracks. Southern Indiana, so cold dry winters, with very humid and hot summers. (though I usually keep AC on during most of the summer, so the air in the house stays fairly dry.)
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Jan 6, 2021 16:14
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I'm having a problem with a CR10 that I hope the thread can ah-ha me with. I have two identical CR10's, both running BTT SKR e3 mini 1.2's, with Marlin 2.0.7.2. They are using the TriangleLab DDE extruders. I'm running the same GCode between both of them. Lefty prints fine. Righty overextrudes by like 60%, only when printing. estep calibration on it is 39.5/40mm. Volumetric extrusion on both printers is explicitly disabled in the menus. What could cause that?
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Jan 6, 2021 16:32
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w00tmonger posted:How much of a thing is a dry storage box for filament while in storage/in use? Calgary Alberta, so generally dry, snowy winters I just use a bunch of large freezer zip-lock bags and silica gel packets and throw anything I am not currently using in one of those. It's super cheap. If it's still sealed, it's fine. I keep my bagged filament together in an airtight plastic bin, mostly for convenience so it's not falling all over. I did get some special bags with a moisture detecting strip and they all have been sub 10% humidity, so I don't really think the extra cost was worth it. Maybe if I was in a sub-tropical climate.
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Jan 6, 2021 16:41
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I just keep a trash bag with a small hole in the top cinched around a cheap dehydrator. All my partial rolls are stacked inside, and I flip it on an hour before I plan to print something.  Works great.
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Jan 6, 2021 16:50
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insta posted:I'm having a problem with a CR10 that I hope the thread can ah-ha me with. Is your slicer outputting estep overrides in the starting g-code? I know PrusaSlicer has an option to output all acceleration/jerk/estep/etc. settings in the actual code, but I don't know if other slicers have the same option.
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Jan 6, 2021 17:12
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eddiewalker posted:I just keep a trash bag with a small hole in the top cinched around a cheap dehydrator. All my partial rolls are stacked inside, and I flip it on an hour before I plan to print something. This is very clever!
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Jan 6, 2021 17:21
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60% is a hell of a lot. Maybe check the slicer and see if there's an error in the settings for the filament? That wouldn't work if you are using the same gcode across both printers, but damned if I can think of a reason for such a huge amount of over extrusion. I realized today that I have an apparently very old version of octoprint that I can't upgrade from. Are the newer versions worth the trouble of setting everything back up? I tend to use the server just for printing and don't have any real plug ins other than the webcam one. If there's some speed up for the printing or some sort of interesting stuff going on though, I'll go through the trouble to set it all back up. Mainly I am just lazy (hence me not wanting to walk around and pop a SD card into the machine), but I don't wanna miss out on something nifty.
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Jan 6, 2021 18:22
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Is your slicer outputting estep overrides in the starting g-code? It's not, but I'd also expect that to effect both printers. It's literally the same GCode. It's driving me freaking bonkers. I'm willing to say the board is broken, but that's such a strange way for it to be broken!
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Jan 6, 2021 18:50
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:60% is a hell of a lot. Maybe check the slicer and see if there's an error in the settings for the filament? That wouldn't work if you are using the same gcode across both printers, but damned if I can think of a reason for such a huge amount of over extrusion. I haven't used Octoprint at all in a long time (mostly because the printers I regularly use are in the same room I slice files on, in enclosures), but I think some of the statistics-related things have been improved and there are some nifty webcam related plugins like "Spaghetti Detector" or whatever it's called, and other things, worth looking into. I think there's even a plugin that will let you know when the firmware for some printers has been updated and attempt to flash them for you? Like I said, it's been a while. insta posted:It's not, but I'd also expect that to effect both printers. It's literally the same GCode. It's driving me freaking bonkers. Are you Absolutely Sure you don't have a nozzle on the one machine with a smaller opening on it than the other? Other than something simple like that, the only other thing I can think of is one board having an odd microstepping setting that's different from the other that's somehow loving up the extruder, but the fact that it only happens while printing leads me to believe one board has a firmware setting that's different from the other and it's interpreting the extrusion length wrong. Like one is set for mm/s and the other is set for mm/m or something.
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Jan 6, 2021 19:13
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The machines are both printing an 800 part order. One died when static from the flexible PEI sheet killed the extruder stepper. I replaced the board, reflashed the firmware, verified it's got my boot logo, and hit go after doing PID tuning. I didn't even change the hotend setup (both are running 0.6 nozzles). The extruder drive gear rips when doing extrusion moves. I would have sworn it was volumetric based on that behavior. I've also checked the TMC drivers, both are Spread for the extruder, steps/mm are equal, volumetric is disabled on both, accel and max speed matches.
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Jan 6, 2021 19:18
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For a while in the lab we had two apparently identical printers but one of them was purchased a few months later and, in an undocumented change, had a 20 tooth pulley on one of the axes instead of a 16 tooth. This was a ton of fun to track down when we started upgrading the firmware assuming the same configuration should work on both machines since they were purportedly identical. NOT Is it possible that one of your machines has a different diameter of extruder drive gear or something?
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Jan 6, 2021 19:20
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I'm trying to figure out how much static has to be generated to kill a stepper motor and not liking the answer vs. the grounding that should be happening long before that happens.
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Jan 6, 2021 19:22
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It sounds like he means the stepper driver got burned out by static, not the motor itself. That's totally plausible. I had a hell of a time one summer trying to track down a bug that turned out to be caused by static electricity building up in the machine, discharging into the frame, and resetting the stepper driver to its factory specs. Still not sure whether the static was coming from the belt (most likely) or the polycarbonate wheels, but after a whole lot of painstaking verification with an oscilloscope and installation of a grounding wire that fixed it completely, that's definitely what it was. There weren't any audible snaps or visible sparks anywhere; I needed the scope to spot it at all. Microelectronics are sensitive things. It was very rewarding to fix that bug but holy god drat this kind of poo poo is why I just tell people to buy Prusas these days. My printers are tools I use to work on projects, not projects unto themselves. There are few things quite as frustrating as pulling out a tool, finding it broken, and having to repair it before you can use it. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 19:34 on Jan 6, 2021 |
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Jan 6, 2021 19:32
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Sagebrush posted:For a while in the lab we had two apparently identical printers but one of them was purchased a few months later and, in an undocumented change, had a 20 tooth pulley on one of the axes instead of a 16 tooth. This was a ton of fun to track down when we started upgrading the firmware assuming the same configuration should work on both machines since they were purportedly identical. NOT They were identical hardware before, and outside of the electronics board, identical after. I just opened the controller box, undid 4 screws, new board, plugged the connectors all back in, installation was the reverse of removal, flashed firmware, PID tuned. Remember, I also checked esteps with a sharpie and calipers. It's almost as though at speed, it switches down from 1/16 steps to 1/8 steps but ... surely that's not a thing? And why now? Also, the XY movement is spot on. I have a bunch of v2 SKR boards incoming. I would run Archim or RAMBo boards but they're not drop-in replacements so I'd have to do something for the enclosure and  As far as the loving Prusa drum, I can't fit these parts on a Prusa, so ... yeah.
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Jan 6, 2021 19:43
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I think the Prusa reference was just down to everything being grounded properly on the machine so as to prevent that kind of problem? If it can't be traced to a specific stepper motor problem or firmware/slicer setting then yeah, it has to be some kind of flaw in the controlling electronics. Even if the two boards are supposed to be the same and seem to function properly, a flaw in the controller can cause bizarre errors.
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Jan 6, 2021 19:52
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Sagebrush posted:
You keep banging that drum, eh?.
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Jan 6, 2021 20:09
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It actually is possible for the drivers to switch microstepping mode in the middle of a print. As noted, I had a problem with a TMC driver just zeroing itself out semi-predictably because of static electricity. It's possible that you have some situation that is causing one of the drivers to partially reset somehow. Take one of the gcode files that has the error, skip down to a section with infill, and delete everything after that point so that the printer gets to the point of demonstrating the error and then just stops dead. Run the print until it stops and then use the TMC readout M-codes (I don't remember which is which but you can Google them) to have the printer report its driver settings. Do this on both printers and see if there's any difference in the E driver configurations.
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Jan 6, 2021 20:15
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ImplicitAssembler posted:You keep banging that drum, eh?. One hundred loving percent. I get that some people in this thread treat their printers like a project car that they're happy to repair five days a week to drive on the weekend. I'm done with that. My printers are tools and having busted tools loving sucks. I just keep saying it because I think at least some of the newbies popping into this thread also just want a tool that works with no hacking or fiddling, and as far as I can tell I'm one of the only posters who thinks that that's a totally reasonable choice. You shouldn't have to immediately buy new springs and extruder arms and Teflon tubes just to have the tool work reliably. Even with those upgrades, the flexible steel bed and automatic leveling on a Prusa are just such incredibly good quality of life features that recommending a printer with glass and springs these days honestly to me is kind of like buying a computer without an SSD. Just a really bad cost benefit trade-off. It's just two different attitudes. Some people say "ugh, now I have to gently caress around with the machine." Other people say "no, you don't have to, you get to!" Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 20:24 on Jan 6, 2021 |
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Jan 6, 2021 20:21
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Last guy, was a guy asking to print enclosures for electronics projects. He asked for opinions a $300 printer. So obviously has some experience with electronics, etc. Yet, you instantly go "No, you need to spend another $500 and get a Prusa!". How about trying a little perspective, instead of trying to justify your own purchases. Also, this is what Tom Sanladerer thinks of the Ender 3 v2 vs the prusa (mini) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3jkrblU9lMI&t=650s
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Jan 6, 2021 20:32
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It really doesn't help your case when you keep upgrading the cost with every post. A Prusa Mini is $350, not $800. Fucks' sake. Being good at electronics is completely orthogonal to wanting to hack around with your tools. Again I don't see what is so hard about this concept. If this thread were about power drills and everyone was into one specific harbor freight model that works pretty well most of the time but really benefits from upgrading half a dozen small parts and sometimes is broken right out of the box, nobody would be getting offended at saying "hey, if you just want a tool that works, get a Makita." Or maybe they would, I don't loving know, some people are just allergic to the concept of paying for quality Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 20:45 on Jan 6, 2021 |
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Jan 6, 2021 20:43
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Whatever dude. Just dial down the hyperbole, ok and actually listen to people, rather than just shouting out your own little religion.
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Jan 6, 2021 20:48
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goddamnedtwisto posted:I was under the impression that ASA was almost as tough as ABS at least, but easier to print and UV-resistant? ASA is the UV resistant alternative to PLA. Not ABS. As noted by others, TPU works through a bowden setup. I've done it on my MPMD.
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Jan 6, 2021 20:51
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