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2005 matrix xr, 5 speed manual, ~130k miles. This has been a great car for the past 10 years, but within the past 2 years my wife learned to drive standard in it and the clutch doesn't have much left in it. Not falling out of gear yet but big revs with no accel when under load. Local repair shop estimates 1600 for a new clutch + flywheel. There's also a "squeaking" from rear driver's when going over bumps - I replaced the sway bar linkages (or whatever they were) earlier this year and it's not that - struts, maybe? We're probably having kids in the next couple of years and will be looking for something bigger - probably a rav4. Is it worth putting any money into this car at this point or should I just drive it till it falls out of gear and then move on?
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Jan 24, 2021 04:25
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It's essentially a Corolla. It'll run forever, and it's very much worth keeping around until you upsize - they're very reliable cars, to the point that there's plenty of them running around with the odometer maxed out (it stops at 299,999 for some reason). That said, $1600 sounds a bit steep for the clutch. I think I paid $1100 (2005 Matrix base, essentially the same car without power windows/locks/etc), which still stung, and that was after spending a week calling around. Also, it won't "fall out of gear", it'll just get worse with slipping until it won't move. The clutch needs to be replaced ASAP. The squeaking in the rear is bushings of some kind, hard to say what. Need to get it in the air and see what's loose. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 13:06 on Jan 24, 2021 |
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Jan 24, 2021 12:58
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Curious what the AI opinion of the CT200h is and if it is worth the 10-20% premium for facelift 2014 over the early ones given similar condition / miles.
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Jan 24, 2021 19:22
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I have a 2016 Chevy Cruze LS, 1.8L engine, 53.5K miles. In the past I've had maintenance such as oil changes, filters, etc. done at a local shop; it's due for an oil change again and I decided to do it myself this time. I have everything needed for the job, and have had experience doing oil changes from my previous job as a groundskeeper. The problem I've run into is that I can't loosen the drain plug. I've got the right size socket for the nut (10mm), I'm trying to turn it counter-clockwise, but I'm evidently unable to apply enough force to budge the thing at all. If I push my hardest, all that happens is the socket wrench goes slightly off-angle and slips. I really don't want to strip the drat thing, but it looks like that's what will happen if I keep trying what I've been doing. Any ideas from those who have been doing their own maintenance longer than I have?
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Jan 24, 2021 19:29
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Impact wrench? Breaker bar? Is the head of the bolt already rounded off? A properly sized socket should not slip as long as you're applying torque perpendicular to the fastener. You're absolutely positive you're turning it the correct way, right? If it's on the bottom of the oil pan and you're above, the apparent clockwise/counterclockwise direction is reversed. Remember to look at it from the perspective of the bolt. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Jan 24, 2021 |
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Jan 24, 2021 19:35
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Also, going forward, buy a set of nice 6pt metric sockets and put your 12pt sockets away for cases that you absolutely need one (12pt bolt heads) If you don't have a breaker bar but you've got box wrenches you can join them together like this (not my pic) and you get leverage: 
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Jan 24, 2021 19:39
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Point the thumb of your right hand in the direction of the plug and your fingers will curl in the direction of tightening. Turn the plug in the other direction.
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Jan 24, 2021 19:40
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BlackMK4 posted:If you don't have a breaker bar but you've got box wrenches you can join them together like this (not my pic) and you get leverage: Neat. Gonna use this on the future. Is there a risk of damaging the heads?
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Jan 24, 2021 19:54
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Sagebrush posted:Impact wrench? Breaker bar? My problem is, I'm having trouble keeping the wrench perpendicular as I apply more force, hence the slippage. The head of the nut isn't rounded off, but the edges are definitely rougher than when I started trying. The socket still fits tightly when I begin at a perpendicular angle, but again I'm having trouble keeping that angle and don't want to round it off. All the plastic shielding on the bottom of the car isn't helping things any. I don't have a breaker bar or impact wrench, and in the latter case I don't think that my dinky air compressor could handle one---it can fill my tires, but not much else. edit: Sagebrush posted:You're absolutely positive you're turning it the correct way, right? If it's on the bottom of the oil pan and you're above, the apparent clockwise/counterclockwise direction is reversed. Remember to look at it from the perspective of the bolt. I'm actually below the oil pan, looking up. The car is chocked in back and on stands closer to the front. Maybe it would help trying to jack the car up a bit higher so I can get a better angle? edit 2: BlackMK4 posted:Also, going forward, buy a set of nice 6pt metric sockets and put your 12pt sockets away for cases that you absolutely need one (12pt bolt heads) Yeah, cheap 12pt sockets are most of what I've got, and I was worried that might be part of the problem. No regular box/combo wrenches wither, at least not in metric. Meaty Ore fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Jan 24, 2021 |
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Jan 24, 2021 20:00
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Outrail posted:Neat. Gonna use this on the future. Is there a risk of damaging the heads? I also use a big closed end slipped over a ratchet handle for a hillbilly breaker bar in tighter places. Are 10mm drain plugs common?
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Jan 24, 2021 20:01
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C-Bangin' it 
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Colostomy Bag posted:I also use a big closed end slipped over a ratchet handle for a hillbilly breaker bar in tighter places. I was going to ask that, I've not had one with a head that small before. 15mm or larger in my experience. OP are you sure it's the right bolt? Edit:because I'm a weirdo I actually looked it up and I guess that's right. What a weird plug design. I would use your best quality six point socket at this point. StormDrain fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Jan 24, 2021 |
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Jan 24, 2021 20:31
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Who tightened it last?
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Jan 24, 2021 21:18
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Colostomy Bag posted:I also use a big closed end slipped over a ratchet handle for a hillbilly breaker bar in tighter places. I usually just use a piece of pipe. $10 at the hardware store if you're feeling spendy. Plus you can cut it shorter as needed. And use it as a piece of pipe.
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Jan 24, 2021 21:23
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StormDrain posted:I was going to ask that, I've not had one with a head that small before. 15mm or larger in my experience. OP are you sure it's the right bolt? Heh, I'm a weirdo too and looked it up. What the gently caress was GM thinking on that design? The only thing I can think of is an engineer thinking "Well maybe if we make this smaller than usual, then the oil change guy might think twice before applying massive torque on it."
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Jan 24, 2021 21:50
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Colostomy Bag posted:Heh, I'm a weirdo too and looked it up. What the gently caress was GM thinking on that design? The only thing I can think of is an engineer thinking "Well maybe if we make this smaller than usual, then the oil change guy might think twice before applying massive torque on it." 
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Jan 24, 2021 21:52
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When I was designing tooling for an industrial application, the client had us weld oversized nuts on everything so they could use a single tool for all the clamps, regardless of how big (or small) they were. You know they had a single calibrated impact wrench that they were going to use and probably end up shearing bolts left and right, but the client gets what they want.
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Jan 24, 2021 21:56
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Colostomy Bag posted:Heh, I'm a weirdo too and looked it up. What the gently caress was GM thinking on that design? The only thing I can think of is an engineer thinking "Well maybe if we make this smaller than usual, then the oil change guy might think twice before applying massive torque on it." Could be a weight savings thing too. Years ago I remember hearing that Acura put dimples in the heads of every bolt on their cars and saved something like 40 pounds. Every little bit counts these days. Krakkles posted:I have a 10mm socket in 1/2” drive. I have one thats a half inch drive impact rated socket. Woe is the fastener that I have to use that on with my milwaukee nut fucker 5000 
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Jan 24, 2021 22:54
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wesleywillis posted:Could be a weight savings thing too. Years ago I remember hearing that Acura put dimples in the heads of every bolt on their cars and saved something like 40 pounds. Apparently this was a Japanese WW2 innovation to save weight on aircraft.
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Jan 24, 2021 22:56
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STR posted:It's essentially a Corolla. It'll run forever, and it's very much worth keeping around until you upsize - they're very reliable cars, to the point that there's plenty of them running around with the odometer maxed out (it stops at 299,999 for some reason). Thanks, I'll keep shopping around. $1600 was a lot cheaper than the dealer (I had to go in for emissions anyway so I thought I'd ask - $2400 lol), and the $1600 was still a commercial shop (Monroe or someone like that). I'll see what the local mechanics would charge. I did have it up in the air and couldn't find what was loose, but the rear sway bar has a bunch of rubber bushings that are disintegrating. Maybe they need to be replaced (maybe the squeak is metal-on-metal)? Maybe I can slap some lithium grease on them and see if it goes away?
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Jan 24, 2021 23:02
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Turds in magma posted:Thanks, I'll keep shopping around. $1600 was a lot cheaper than the dealer (I had to go in for emissions anyway so I thought I'd ask - $2400 lol), and the $1600 was still a commercial shop (Monroe or someone like that). I'll see what the local mechanics would charge. You might have luck with an actual transmission shop too. It may be slightly cheaper there than at a general repair shop.
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Jan 24, 2021 23:47
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Meaty Ore posted:I have a 2016 Chevy Cruze LS, 1.8L engine, 53.5K miles. Set the wrench on there, and put your hand on it in such a way that you are absolutely certain that the wrench is fully, snugly on & aligned with the nut. Then smack the other end with a hammer to break it loose. One shot should do it. Turds in magma posted:I did have it up in the air and couldn't find what was loose, but the rear sway bar has a bunch of rubber bushings that are disintegrating. Maybe they need to be replaced (maybe the squeak is metal-on-metal)? Maybe I can slap some lithium grease on them and see if it goes away? If you can resist hosing them all at once, hose them one at a time with silicone spray until you find the squeaker. You should probably replace them all since they are deteriorating. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 06:11 on Jan 25, 2021 |
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Jan 25, 2021 00:15
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Thanks for the suggestions. It's getting dark and will have to wait until tomorrow, but I'll see what I can do.
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Jan 25, 2021 00:18
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Good brand of electric impact wrench? And if I got one, could I also use it as a drill?
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Jan 25, 2021 00:59
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Milwaukee is good and you can't use them as a drill.
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Jan 25, 2021 01:06
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Memento posted:Good brand of electric impact wrench? Red, yellow, blue, other blue. I have a bunch of drill bits that have the impact style 1/4" hex connection on them, so yeah probably. If they get bound up though, the first few impacts might probably break them though.
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Jan 25, 2021 01:08
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Memento posted:Good brand of electric impact wrench? 2) I guess you could but I wouldn't suggest it. You'd have a hard time finding a drill bits that can be properly adapted onto the 3/8" or 1/2" or whatever chuck your impact has. Also an impact gun would obliterate any drill bit that you manage to fit onto your impact gun since it won't stop turning like a regular powerdrill would when it encounters resistance. melon cat fucked around with this message at 06:47 on Jan 10, 2024 |
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Jan 25, 2021 01:10
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Cheers, I'm going to buy a good cordless impact drill, but I was wondering if I could kill two birds with one several-hundred-dollar outlay.
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Jan 25, 2021 01:11
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You're just gonna be breaking drill bits if you try doing that. Drill bits are designed for constant rotation, not intermittent shock. Impact drills have their impact action on the in-and-out motion, not the left and right motion like impact wrenches.
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Jan 25, 2021 01:14
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My HF corded impact is the best non-pneumatic I've ever used. And like most Harbor Freight stuff, I plan on it lasting me long enough.
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Jan 25, 2021 01:21
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Linemen like impact wrenches for drilling big holes in telephone posts. Usually 7/16" hex shank auger bits. They're way easier to use than a hole hawg when you're climbing a pole.
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Jan 25, 2021 01:27
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I've got a Makita impact wrench, and I've used Milwaukee and Dewalt. When using those drill bits that have a have a quick disconnect hex shank, I've never once had the tool impact. That's drilling into steel, wood, plastic, drywall, all kinds of material. It's fine, but your drill bit selection is limited relative to a regular drill. For basic homeowner stuff, I usually recommend a drill/driver combo in 12v in any of Makita / Milwaukee / Dewalt / Ryobi / Rigid / Bosch. For automotive, move up to 18v.
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Jan 25, 2021 03:40
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wesleywillis posted:Red, yellow, blue, other blue. So Milwaukee, De Walt, Makita, ...Bosch maybe?
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Jan 25, 2021 03:53
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Memento posted:So Milwaukee, De Walt, Makita, ...Bosch maybe? Sure. The important thing here is whether you have anything else. What you're buying into is a battery system. So if you already have some stuff.....get that kind. If you don't have any other stuff.....what kind of other stuff could you see yourself needing other than an impact and a drill? Because some systems provide different kinds of stuff than others. If you don't need anything past the basics impact/drill/circ saw it barely matters. If you almost never use it it matters even less and just got get Ryobi stuff (which is a really good budget option with a lot of variety in the line, just maybe not "these are the tools I make my living with").
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Jan 25, 2021 03:56
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Yeah I don't have anything yet, but I want to put up some shelves with dynabolts in my garage (cinderblock walls), so I need an impact drill, and a circular saw to cut the wood to length. I do some automotive stuff as well, but really, not enough to justify getting a separate impact driver. Looking at it, it seems like Ryobi might be the go, I'm not doing anything so hardcore that I need the next level of stuff, and I'll probably get a lawnmower as well down the track.
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Jan 25, 2021 04:05
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Memento posted:Yeah I don't have anything yet, but I want to put up some shelves with dynabolts in my garage (cinderblock walls), so I need an impact drill, and a circular saw to cut the wood to length. I do some automotive stuff as well, but really, not enough to justify getting a separate impact driver. Looking at it, it seems like Ryobi might be the go, I'm not doing anything so hardcore that I need the next level of stuff, and I'll probably get a lawnmower as well down the track. Oh so hang on, an impact driver is not an impact drill/rotary hammer/whatever. I think this was already mentioned but you REALLY need to understand the difference here. If you are trying to drill into a masonry wall you want an masonry bit and a HAMMER DRILL. Which may be called "impact" in some systems. If you want to drive screws quickly or maybe put a 1/4" or 3/8" socket bit on so run bolts and nuts you want an impact driver. These are not the same thing. The thing closer is the impact  It is not suitable for drilling holes in masonry. If I wanted to do that, I'd use the thing further away and turn it to this setting: 
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Jan 25, 2021 04:11
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Yeah, that point came up before but it looks like it did not stick. An IMPACT DRIVER has little spring-loaded hammers inside that wind up and whack the tool bit around in a circle, like you put a wrench on a bolt and then hit the side of the wrench with a hammer. It produces a huge amount of torque in brief pulses and is used for breaking frozen bolts loose, quickly driving screws into telephone poles without drilling a hole, and stuff like that. It is the thing that makes a machine gun noise in an auto shop. A HAMMER DRILL is a regular power drill that also vibrates the drill bit in and out along its axis, as if you were drilling a hole and repeatedly hitting the back of the drill with a hammer. It doesn't produce any extra torque, but the hammering action, when used with a properly hardened bit, breaks up whatever you're drilling into chunks. It is how you drill into concrete and similar materials. It makes a buzzing vibration sound rather than distinctive clack-clack-clack like an impact driver. A lot of companies sell a combination impact driver + hammer drill kit, e.g. this Makita bag: https://www.amazon.com/Makita-XT269M-Lithium-Ion-Brushless-Cordless/dp/B01IB4NALM I don't know what your budget is but you can't go wrong with Makita (I have the older version of those two tools and they're fantastic). Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 04:30 on Jan 25, 2021 |
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Jan 25, 2021 04:26
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Right, I guess I was using the term impact drill when I meant hammer drill. Thanks for the breakdown.
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Jan 25, 2021 04:27
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Sagebrush posted:A lot of companies sell a combination impact driver + hammer drill kit, e.g. this Makita bag: https://www.amazon.com/Makita-XT269M-Lithium-Ion-Brushless-Cordless/dp/B01IB4NALM Sigh, right after my yellow tool post. (I kid I kid....if I was starting over it would NOT be DeWalt....I'm in there because of inertia/batteries/chargers)
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Jan 25, 2021 04:34
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If you live in Japan (or just have access to eBay) you can get the special-edition pinku Makitas  
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Jan 25, 2021 04:41
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Sagebrush posted:If you live in Japan (or just have access to eBay) you can get the special-edition pinku Makitas Aww that's cute  And apparently you totally can dril with impact drivers, either through special drill bits or a $5 chuck adapter from ebay: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBRWcQeG5BE&t=253s That said it's definitely not a hammer drill and chances of breaking something are probably much higher with it. I looked into it earlier when all I had was my impact and needed to drill some holes. But in the end I just got a cheap Chinese brushless drill compatible with Makita batteries. It's actually a good solution if you, like me, don't use the tools enough to justify shelling out hundreds for the rela professional stuff.
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Jan 25, 2021 09:06
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